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Default 'Homemade' HID Angel Eye Conversion - 06-30-2012, 06:21 AM

Just finished installing this on my 135i and though i'd post some pictures for anyone else who is thinking of going down this route. Really happy with results but just hope they are not too bright at night.

The first 4 are taken with sunlight directly on the front of the car, the next in the shade and the last 2 with dipped beam also on. The colour representations is not exact but close and for the ones in the shade the camera seems to have made adjustments to avoid 'washing out' the picture due to brightness (similar to if you take a picture looking into the sun or other light source).
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The_Guchi The_Guchi is offline
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Default 06-30-2012, 08:15 AM

Can we get a how to?
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Default 06-30-2012, 04:35 PM

Ok, here’s how I did it, but just a few things to be aware of before you consider doing this:-

1. I chose to do this to my car and am willing to accept any consequences. If you do it to your car and something goes wrong don’t blame me!!
2. My car is an EU spec E82 RHD 135i. The instructions below are specific to this model.
3. To make this work you will also need to recode your FRM module to increase the Angel Eye voltage and remove the Angel Eye ‘bulb error’ warning. On my car the existing Angel Eyes ran at 10V for running lights / sidelights and 4V when dipped / main beam was on. To make the circuit work this needs increasing to around 12V. There are other ways to remove the bulb warnings (cancellers or resistors etc.) but as far as I could work out, unless you buy a HID kit specifically for your model you cannot get round the voltage problem.
4. The light clusters you see in the pictures are the standard Xenon clusters for my car which came with LED eyebrows, Xenon main and dipped beams, but halogen Angel Eyes.
5. Since my original post I have ran the lights for roughly 3 hours constant to check heat output. They are warmer than the previous bulbs but I don’t think they should cause any issues.
6. Some other forums claim ‘yellowing’ of the Angel Eyes following HID conversions. If you research this you will find 3 main causes: (A) Poor quality HID bulbs with low UV protection – be sure to buy quality bulbs. (B) Water ingress due to bad seals when the back of the light housing is drilled – see pictures / instructions below. This is then ‘burnt off’ from the heat of the bulb but causes colouring. (C) A HID bulb with a too high colour temp rating is used. I used 4300K bulbs as they are a really good match for my existing eyebrow and dipped beam. The higher the colour rating the higher the UV output irrespective of bulb quality.
7. If you do not know 100% what you are doing do not attempt this. As you are working with HID Ballasts some parts of this circuit will run at 23000V approx.
8. The cost of the parts was £60 approx excluding coding – I already had the software on my laptop and cable so could do this myself. If anyone wants to know how to code the Angel Eye Voltage and remove the bulb warnings I can post a brief description but will have to assume you have some knowledge of coding otherwise the post will be pages.

Things you will need to buy:-

1. 2 X HID Ballasts – I used mini G4 35W ballast (Cost £16 for a pair)
2. 2 X 35W H8 HID bulbs – as above try and stick to a named brand (Cost £14 for a pair)
3. Cable – I used Tri Rated 41A for the main feed and then Tri Rated 30A when the circuit split to offside & nearside (Cost £12)
4. Heatshrink – you will need various sizes (Cost £3 for 127 piece multi set)
5. 2 X Relays & Holders – Lucas (holder) & Tyco (relay) used rated at 40A (Cost £6)
6. 2 X In Line Mini Blade Fuse Holders With 10A Fuses – (Cost £4)
7. 2 X Male & 2 X Female 9006 Connectors – I found it was cheaper to buy a pair a bulb warning cancellers & cut off the connectors (Cost £7)
8. Black insulation tape – (Cost £0.80)

I can provide links to all the above to give you a better idea but I wasn’t sure if that would break forum rules?

How to do it (All my cabling was wrapped in black insulation tape – if you are planning on doing the same you need to do it right from the start. I have also assumed you have coded your car and checked it is OK at this point):-

1. Disconnect negative from battery in boot.
2. Connect the 41A cable to the positive in the engine bay & a good negative
3. Run these to the front of the car and then split into two positives and two negatives (for offside & nearside - this is where the 30A cable starts). Join the two positives to the inline fuse holders
4. Then connect the cable from the two fuse holders to pin 30 on the relays – at this point you will need to start thinking about where the ballasts & relays will be mounted as you need to ensure you cut your cable to the correct length.
5. Remove the plastic case from the back of each light cluster by pushing the two retaining brackets outwards. Drill a 25mm hole in each case (the part you have just removed) to allow access for the HID Bulb cabling.
6. Mount the rubber grommet which comes with the H8 HID Bulbs into the new 25mm hole. Then follow the connections as shown in the following pictures. The connections to Pins 85 & 86 on the relays is where the female 9006 connectors will be required
7. Pin 87 from the relay and the negative from the engine bay should then be connected to the input on the ballasts. This is where the male 9006 connectors will be required.
8. All the cabling should then be complete and the ballasts & relays need mounting in a suitable place.
9. Remove the existing Halogen H8 bulb and replace with the new H8 HID bulb whilst sliding the rear light cluster case back into place. You may need to disconnect then re-connect some of your cable connections during this process.
10. Re-check everything – remember 23000V !!!!
11. Re-connect the battery and test.

Wiring diagram & pictures:-
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Last edited by keyap; 07-01-2012 at 02:05 AM..
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The_Guchi The_Guchi is offline
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Default 06-30-2012, 08:14 PM

Nice write up! Looks to be quite the job though...
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Default 06-30-2012, 11:35 PM

I wish I could see your results in person because that's what it would take for me before I started such an undertaking.

Great write up though, it looks really well done.


2007 E92 N54, JB4 G5 ISO W/ BMS Flash, RB Turbos, Meth W/ FSB & CM10, BMS DCI, BMS OCC, CPE FMIC, AR Design CLDP's, DP Fix, Quaife LSD
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Default 07-01-2012, 01:55 AM

If it helps give you a better idea - I was parked next to a 2012 E92 3 series this morning & we compared lights. The outer rings were slightly brighter on mine and the inner rings much brighter. I've also previously tried some MTEC 4750 halogen bulbs and LED upgrades, both of which were OK ish, but didn't give the effect I wanted and were not really bright enough. The LED upgrades were however just some H8 LED bulbs I bought from a local supplier and not made for Angel Eyes therefore, please do not discount the LED products specifically made for this purpose as from what I've seen these look like they do a good job.

The only thing I'm not comfortable with yet is the light output at night - they're REALLY bright and due to the setup do not dimm when main beam is on (I assume this is the same though with any upgrade). The inner ring is virtually just a ball of light whereas the outer ring maintains its appearance.

The inner ring is actually brighter than the dipped beam, almost to the point where you could drive at night with just the Angel Eyes. Thankfully, due to the throw of light and lack of focus on the Angel Eyes once you move back from the car they don't give out too much glare to oncoming cars. I took the car out last night and didn't get flashed by anyone (I thought they might think my main beam was on). I also passed / drove behind a couple of police cars (seemed strange to be actually looking for police cars !!) and didn't get stopped.

If anyone wants pictures of the car at night I will be happy to post but, may have to do it via video as I have a feeling a camera will not give a true representation.

Last edited by keyap; 07-01-2012 at 04:19 AM..
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Default 07-03-2012, 09:39 AM

@ TheInfamousDrew

Further to your PM here's the link to the PDF I wrote for changing Angel Eye Voltages. I've also put a link on for HEX voltages I compiled when I was coding the Angel Eyes & a few other things. On the Voltage PDF the calculated voltgage is what the voltage should be if the HEX code is converted, whereas the actual voltage is what it was when I tested it.

If you need any more help / guides let me know.

@ anyone who tries this - if you are not familiar with coding DO NOT attempt this, you can 'brick' your car. Also the PDF I have linked was wrote from memory and I have not worked back through it as it would mean recoding my car back to 'standard' and then coding the mods again. Please check & recheck what I have put and only attempt if you have a knowledge of coding & are 100% sure you know what you are doing.
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File Type: pdf Changing Angel Eye Voltage.pdf (43.4 KB, 5517 views)
File Type: pdf HEX Voltages For Coding.pdf (22.9 KB, 558 views)
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Default 07-03-2012, 09:47 AM

Thank you sir!


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Default 12-25-2013, 10:17 PM

Awesome!! Thank you!

I had done this before and couldnt remember the coding side of it and your PDFs were a great help. Thanks again!!


2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD & Axles, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV
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Default 12-28-2013, 01:51 PM

Glad it helped - been running with mine now like this for the past 10K and all's good with no signs of damage from the extra heat.
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Default 12-28-2013, 11:05 PM

ok soooo it was great until lasst night when both my angel eyes went out at the same time. This setup only lasted about and day and i have tried putting in my stock bulbs back in and neither side is working now. I have tried reversing all that I did and still no luck. I have found other people to be in the same situation and they apparently had to reset their FRM module which i have tried with no luck. By that I assume they mean just flash it back with expertmode and still have no Angel eyes... Any idea what i could do to get them back on??


2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD & Axles, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV
Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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Default 12-29-2013, 04:40 AM

When you say flashed back with expertmode, did you code with a blank .MAN file? It can be done this way but there's quite a few steps and I've also seen problems with this method. A better way is :-

Attachment 17005

I've also had problems with the JB4 and coding since BMW applied some security patches. I know map 0 is supposed to allow this but in reality I've had to remove the JB4 otherwise had issues with some modules - http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20211

Also, did you use a relays to power the HID bulbs - hopefully this is a yes as running direct from the existing wiring will cause issues / possible damage.

The last few things are (1) I've seen it where the ECU recognises a problem and sort of 'shuts down' power. I had this with the power to one of the ballasts on my normal headlights when I had the engine cleaned. The light didn't work for about a week then started working again? I wonder if the resetting your talking about resolves this? (2) Have you checked fuses? I'm assuming there is one / are some for the Angel Eyes? (3) Did you change your bulb error warnings? If you look at point 3 in the 3rd post you'll see I coded to stop the checks / warnings. Not sure whether this is needed on all cars and whether it will cause the problem you've seen? If you didn't and used relays did you use a resistor or one of the 'cancellers' - was it the correct ohm / OK for your car? (4) What output voltage did you re-code to? I believe our cars 'max out' at around 14.5 to 15v - running at this level for extended period could cause a problem. I must confess that since posting the original instructions I've changed mine to hex 0C, 9F as 0C, 2C still worked but at times the relays 'clicked'?

Last edited by keyap; 12-29-2013 at 05:14 AM..
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Default 12-29-2013, 12:40 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyap
When you say flashed back with expertmode, did you code with a blank .MAN file? It can be done this way but there's quite a few steps and I've also seen problems with this method. A betterer way is :-

Attachment 17005

I've also had problems with the JB4 and coding since BMW applied some security patches. I know map 0 is supposed to allow this but in reality I've had to remove the JB4 otherwise had issues with some modules - http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20211

Also, did you use a relays to power the HID bulbs - hopefully this is a yes as running direct from the existing wiring will cause issues / possible damage.

The last few things are (1) I've seen it where the ECU recognises a problem and sort of 'shuts down' power. I had this with the power to one of the ballasts on my normal headlights when I had the engine cleaned. The light didn't work for about a week then started working again? I wonder if the resetting your talking about resolves this? (2) Have you checked fuses? I'm assuming there is one / are some for the Angel Eyes? (3) Did you change your bulb error warnings? If you look at point 3 in the 3rd post you'll see I coded to stop the checks / warnings. Not sure whether this is needed on all cars and whether it will cause the problem you've seen? If you didn't and used relays did you use a resistor or one of the 'cancellers' - was it the correct ohm / OK for your car? (4) What output voltage did you re-code to? I believe our cars 'max out' at around 14.5 to 15v - running at this level for extended period could cause a problem. I must confess that since posting the original instructions I've changed mine to hex 0C, 9F as 0C, 2C still worked but at times the relays 'clicked'?
Thanks for the quick response. I'mpretty sure I coded with expert mode correctly as iI've done it before in the past although I can't confirm since the pdf you uploading is not downloadingfor some reason. No relays used but I've never had an issue in the past without with other cars I've done. Fuses all good and have never had an issue with the Jb and have been able to code every module I've worked with before including the NFRM.

At this point I've narrowed it down to being an issue with the cut voltage that you mentioned. Found a short code and the two angel eye out codes. The counter in toolset32 showed that my angel eyes have 17 occurrences of being out and I know once that hits a certain number the module locks that out and won't allow you to code it to fix it. You then have to replace the module which I don't want to do. I have found a person who fixed this but the instructions he gave were very vague.

Originally from bimmerforuns
"
- Connect cable to your car, launch*Toolset32*and loadFRM70.prg*(for FRM2).- In the window called*Select job: FRM_70, select the jobstatus_lampen_kurzschluss_counter. In the list*Resultsselect*job_status*and the lamp output which is shut off due to short circuit protection.- Send the job to the car using the F5 key. You should get an answer in the*Results*window and the*COUNTER*value should be > 0. If*COUNTER*is = 0 then you didn't select the right lamp output. Try finding the one(s) which haveCOUNTER*> 0. You will look at this value later to see if the short circuit reset-job actually worked.- Now, switch job tosteuern_reset_kurzschlussabschaltung. Notice that this job requires one (1) argument:*lamp_nr.*Lamp_nr*is a number 0-255. Enter the*lamp_nr*to clear in theArguments*list and select*job_status*under*Results.- Send the job using F5. Make sure you get an answerOKAY*in the*Results*window.Note:*I don't know the mapping between each lamp andlamp_nr, so I simply sent the command 64 times for alllamp_nr*from 0 to 63. Try this - I guess it can't do any harm. Since*lamp_nr*is supposed to be an integer, I guess possible values for*lamp_nr*are 0-255.When you have sent kurzschlussabschaltung-commands for all*lamp_nr, do the first job again (check COUNTER). If everything is good, the counters which were > 0 before should now be = 0.Also, I see there are two jobs which are named quite similar -*steuern_lampen_kurzschlussabschaltung*and_reset_k urzschluss_sperre. I don't know the difference between these two, but if one doesn't clear your counters, I would try the other one too. Both jobs require thelamp_nr-argument."

I just can't figure out what to put in the arguments spot. The directions are very vague and I've got to point to where I see the counter but just can't reset it.

Any idea ?


2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD & Axles, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV
Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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Default 12-30-2013, 03:17 AM

From what I know, what you've described would cause the problem but it shouldn't have happended so something to consider first:-

Why did the module show so many short circuits? Has this been resolved?

Tool32 will reset the counter and I have used it previously to reset gearbox adaptions and a few other things but not short circuits. The post you copied is the correct way to do it however the arguments section can be difficult as this is the type of bulb you are looking to reset - how is your German?

There is a post on BMW Coding forum which will help - "Short Circuit In FRM". Are you a member? The full thread is here:-

http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....m+reset+tool32

But this is hopefully what your looking for:-

Name:  lampnr.jpg
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Default 12-30-2013, 12:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyap
From what I know, what you've described would cause the problem but it shouldn't have happended so something to consider first:-

Why did the module show so many short circuits? Has this been resolved?

Tool32 will reset the counter and I have used it previously to reset gearbox adaptions and a few other things but not short circuits. The post you copied is the correct way to do it however the arguments section can be difficult as this is the type of bulb you are looking to reset - how is your German?

There is a post on BMW Coding forum which will help - "Short Circuit In FRM". Are you a member? The full thread is here:-

http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....m+reset+tool32

But this is hopefully what your looking for:-

Attachment 17006
Thanks again for the quick response. I have been actually been trying to do this for a couple of hours now with no luck. I keep getting errors every time I am trying to run the command.

Name:  Screen Shot 2013-12-29 at 11.42.51 PM.jpg
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As you can see, I am able to view the counter and see exactly what is going on.

Name:  Screen Shot 2013-12-29 at 11.43.39 PM.jpg
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I know I am so close to getting this to work but something is not working right....

Any idea what it could be??

Anytime i try to run multiple at the same time i get this error and alone I get the error in the previous picture...

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Any idea what it could be??

Thank you sooo much once again. You have been the only one to even respond to any of my posts on all forums including bmwcoding and you have left very detailed responses and I cant even explain to you how much I appreciate it!

PS

the my german is as diverse as me knowing NEIN and NICHT_AKTIV


2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD & Axles, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV
Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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Default 12-30-2013, 06:08 PM

Your pictures are a bit small but tool32 looks fairly new - is that version 4.0.3? If that is the case I'm guessing EIDIABAS is also fairly new however your .prg files is the ECU folder may not be.

When or if you've updated your DATENS did you also update your ECU folder? Just to make sure it's not your FRM_70 file I've linked one below:-

frm_70.zip.pdf

I had trouble getting it to upload so you'll need to remove the .pdf extension then extract. I was originally using V46 but, following a service in June, needed to update to V48.1. They were only for an E89 and 'Total Commander' was used so, if it needed an update, this should have been done.

I'm going to assume that as you're used to coding it's nothing to do with the normal problems people have - apps themselves, your cable, your operating system, car ignition position etc. The only thing you might want to check is the COMM port number as sometimes >10 can cause problems.

As far as I can think we're then down to three things:-

1) Incorrect process in tool32 however, from a bit of searching, it appears there are quite a few tool32 FRM light reset coding threads where people have followed the process you posted and nobody else seems to have this problem.
2) Your FRM_70 file is out of date / corrupt - strange that it lets you read the number of errors but not reset however checking with the above file should help.
3) Even on map 0 the JB4 is causing a problem. If you look at one of the links I posted earlier I was trying to do some coding on KOMBI, CAS, DWAI & NFRM, albeit using NCSExpert and NCSDummy, and even with V48.1 DATENS only CAS and DWAI would work. To code KOMBI and NFRM I had to remove the two CAN communication wires.
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Default 12-31-2013, 02:52 AM

Quote:
did you use a relays to power the HID bulbs - hopefully this is a yes as running direct from the existing wiring will cause issues / possible damage
Quote:
No relays used but I've never had an issue in the past without with other cars I've done
Quote:
Why did the module show so many short circuits? Has this been resolved?
Sorry to re-post but just re-read one of your previous posts and noticed this. You need to use relays. Powering ballasts from the original wires is really not good. You will need to do something about the bulb error warnings though. Fairly simple via coding - let me know if you need a 'how to' otherwise its resistors / cancellers. Just make sure they give the correct resistance for your car otherwise it could be the same problems again or worse.
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Default 12-31-2013, 10:03 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyap
Your pictures are a bit small but tool32 looks fairly new - is that version 4.0.3? If that is the case I'm guessing EIDIABAS is also fairly new however your .prg files is the ECU folder may not be.

When or if you've updated your DATENS did you also update your ECU folder? Just to make sure it's not your FRM_70 file I've linked one below:-

Attachment 17017

I had trouble getting it to upload so you'll need to remove the .pdf extension then extract. I was originally using V46 but, following a service in June, needed to update to V48.1. They were only for an E89 and 'Total Commander' was used so, if it needed an update, this should have been done.

I'm going to assume that as you're used to coding it's nothing to do with the normal problems people have - apps themselves, your cable, your operating system, car ignition position etc. The only thing you might want to check is the COMM port number as sometimes >10 can cause problems.

As far as I can think we're then down to three things:-

1) Incorrect process in tool32 however, from a bit of searching, it appears there are quite a few tool32 FRM light reset coding threads where people have followed the process you posted and nobody else seems to have this problem.
2) Your FRM_70 file is out of date / corrupt - strange that it lets you read the number of errors but not reset however checking with the above file should help.
3) Even on map 0 the JB4 is causing a problem. If you look at one of the links I posted earlier I was trying to do some coding on KOMBI, CAS, DWAI & NFRM, albeit using NCSExpert and NCSDummy, and even with V48.1 DATENS only CAS and DWAI would work. To code KOMBI and NFRM I had to remove the two CAN communication wires.
I actually have never updated my daten files and i am in the process of updating them to 50.2 which I am assuming is the newest out now as per the following thread.

http://www.e90post .com/forums/showthread.php?t=882353

I haven't tried your FRM file yet because i just wanted to completely update and eliminate any other things it could be. I even had someone send me a newer toolset32 file along with the .ini file. I am honestly not sure exactly how to check what version i have and i had someone else help me set up the inpa and ncs for me and i haven't updated since then. In the past I tried updating via totalcommander and no many how many times I tried, it would always end up giving me errors and I would have to revert back to my old setup to get it to work again.


I have definitely learned now that it is absolutely necessary to use relays for these cars. I have used them many times before on other cars and currently run one on my jeep wrangler for HID fogs and never thought of even running them on my 135 because i am an idiot sometimes

I am also pretty sure its not a com port issue or any other general setup because i have not had any other problems in the past with anything like this.

I dont want to entirely remove the JB because i have the NLS and meth FSB along with the G5 board hooked up and its just a pain to get everything out and unhooked. can you recall what pins were the CAN ones that you had disabled??



Im gonna try to get this going with the DATEN update now and Ill check back and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again

John


2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD & Axles, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV
Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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Default 12-31-2013, 11:19 AM

Good Luck.

For me, it's the 2 CAN wires referred to in the "135 / 335 E9X / X1 JB4 (Stage 2) Additional Wires" of this guide:-

http://burgertuning.com/instructions/n55_stage1.pdf

This is the page:-

CAN Wires.pdf

Hopefully, if it is due to the JB4, you shouldn't need to remove it completely, just it's connection to the ECU.
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BostonBeemah BostonBeemah is offline
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Default 12-31-2013, 11:45 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyap
Good Luck.

For me, it's the 2 CAN wires referred to in the "135 / 335 E9X / X1 JB4 (Stage 2) Additional Wires" of this guide:-

http://burgertuning.com/instructions/n55_stage1.pdf

This is the page:-

Attachment 17021

Hopefully, if it is due to the JB4, you shouldn't need to remove it completely, just it's connection to the ECU.
Oh ya i remember those wires on my buddy's n55. I have an n54 and my can wires are in the harness somewhere. Not a big deal thank you anyways..

Updating Daten as we speak.


2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD & Axles, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV
Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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BostonBeemah BostonBeemah is offline
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Default 01-01-2014, 05:28 PM

OK updating Datens was a no go. For some reason every time I try updating Datens, it never works out for me. I always get errors and can't get anything to work even when I use total commander and follow the tutorial to a T. No luck and still dont have any angel eyes. My car doesn't look like a BMW anymore


2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD & Axles, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV
Best stock turbo 12.5 @ 19.46 spinning all the way down
RIP 2008 AW/BL 135i
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keyap keyap is offline
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Default 01-10-2016, 06:44 AM

So, it's been roughly 3 1/2 years since I did this and the car's done around 17K miles during that time.

For those considering doing something like this I thought it would be worthwhile posting back my experience - thankfully, bar 1 ballast needing to be changed I've had absolutely no problems.

The problem with the ballast was my own doing as I cleaned the engine and got water in it.

The only mod I've therefore made since the install is to seal the ballast by adding a liquid which is specially made for sealing purposes. A few hours after adding, this then sets and fully seals the unit.

It just needed a little care to make sure the product was rated correctly for this purpose.

Last edited by keyap; 01-10-2016 at 12:12 PM..
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