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Bimmerocious Bimmerocious is offline
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Default DIY-Intake Valve Cleaning - 04-25-2011, 08:04 AM

This is a starter DIY thread on cleaning your intake valves. I have not made a DIY before so if you see I miss something, please chime in.
This isn't pretty but it should do the trick.


My car: 2007 335i 6MT Coupe. 51,000 miles. AR OCC since ~48,000. No meth. JB3/4 since about 38,000. 3" ******* DP, secondary cats removed, DCI intakes, FMIC.
Never ran meth.

Intake torque specs: (Thanks to Slicktopttz)

15NM = 11FT-LBS

3NM = 2.2FT-LBS or 27in-lbs




Tools Needed:
Lots of shop towels
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
11mm Socket
Torx T20
Torx T27
Metric Hex bits
Small flat head screwdriver for prying connector tabs open
Various Brushes, I used gun cleaning brushes.
Lots of Carb Cleaner, B12 Chemtool or you could use seafoam. I used carb cleaner and B12 since B12 was half the price of seafoam. B12 has the same active ingredients as the carb cleaner.
I used about 4 cans of B12 and at least 6 cans of carb cleaner. Alot of the carb cleaner was used a propellant to blast the valves, so if you have a air compressor you can probably get away with less carb cleaner since you have a good blast source.

Anywho, here it goes.
Get your engine down to this level, I can do this in about 5 minutes and I'm sure lots of you have done it before so I started here with the pictures.

4 metric hex bolts to take off the engine cover.

You'll get to this view. At this point you've already taken off your air intake(s), if not do that now.




Start unplugging connectors, careful the tabs break easy as you can see.

Throttle body is next, just put a flat head under the tab and pry it up, it will click in the up position. Follow the tube down and find where it mounts to a bracket. Unbolt the charge pipe from this bracket for more room.

Next I unplugged the throttle body connector

Unplugging the o2 sensors, you don't have to mark these. They only fit one way, different lengths

On the underside of the intake by the rear turbo inlet you will find a black tube connected to the throttle body, unplug it. It's very similar to the black tube connection right behind the oil filter housing.
There is a rubber mount that slides on to a bracket connected to the intake, just slide it off and detach the wire holder connected to it as well






Under neath the intake lies this evil thing, some holder for connectors and junk. Mr. 5 was able to slide the box off the mount on the intake. To do that he lubed it up first.
Mine wouldn't budge so I took the whole bracket off the intake. This took the most time out of everything. There's 3 bolts, 2 are easy to get off, the 3rd is a bitch. Careful not to strip out the heads.

There are 6 nuts and 1 bolt for the intake, they are all 11mm.
Carefully pull the intake off. You'll have to push the rear intake piping out of the way a bit, but it will clear. If you see something thats preventing the intake from coming out,(I may have forgotten a step), carefully unplug it. It's pretty straight forward.
It's going to get messy, so try to put towels down to catch the dirty liquids. I covered the starter pretty good also since there's a hot wire right there.

Cleaning.
Cylinders 4-6 will be the worst.

HOW TO GET CYLINDERS TO TDC
You'll want to get the valves to close (TDC) so this gunk doesn't get into the cylinders. Best way is to just look at the valves, you'll be able to see if they are closed, 2 of them should be closed if not 3. I just tested by spraying carb cleaner into the valve and seeing if it puddled.
Once you have cleaned those cylinders and want to move on to the next ones you have to rotate the engine. The easiest way for me was to put the car in first gear and release the e-brake. The rock the car back and forth to rotate the engine until you see the next valves start to close. Works best if you push and pull from the front , that way you can check the valve movements quickly and see if you need to continue rocking. A good indicator of this is , you will hear a compression noise. When I heard that noise I stopped and checked and the valves had close, so listen for that hint.


After I found which cylinders were at TDC, I filled the TDC cylinder intake ports with the B12 cleaner and let them sit for at least 30 minutes.





Then just scrub a dub. This takes several tries as you cannot see the valve after you start scrubbing.


On to my macgyver method for helping get that crap out of the intake ports.

Basically took a wet dry vac, and attached (just let it suction it on) the top of spray paint can do it. Then I cut a small hole for a hose to fit in. So in the end you have a wet dry vac with a very small hose that can fit into the ports. Make sense?

So my method was to let them soak, scrub really good, then suck out the dirty cleaner with the wet/dry vac. While the vacuum is running and the hose is on top of the valve, I sprayed the carb cleaner all over the valve to blast away the loose carbon, that way the vacuum would suck it up right away. Similar to being at the dentist, when he uses suction and the water blaster side by side. The blast pressure from the carb cleaner helped alot and did most of the work.


After a few clean and dry cycles you will get a good result.




Hope that is enough to help you guys, I may have skipped a step since I get pretty focused and in the zone while working on cars.
If you have any questions please ask.

When you get everything back to together and start the car, it'll stumble for a second then should go back to normal.

Remember to clean out that vacuum

Last edited by Bimmerocious; 04-25-2011 at 02:54 PM..
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SlicktopTTZ SlicktopTTZ is offline
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Default 04-25-2011, 08:08 AM

Give me the exact torque specs you are looking for and I'll find them on All-Data. I'm guessing you want intake manifold and throttle body torque specs? (looks like you pulled the throttle body with the intake mani, but just in case you need it I'll find it)


Excellent DIY, will make my time in there much quicker when I decide to do this, thanks!


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Bimmerocious Bimmerocious is offline
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Default 04-25-2011, 08:09 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlicktopTTZ
Give me the exact torque specs you are looking for and I'll find them on All-Data. I'm guessing you want intake manifold and throttle body torque specs?


Excellent DIY, will make my time in there much quicker when I decide to do this, thanks!
Only need intake as I left the TB on there, but while you are looking it can't hurt to find those as well.
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Default 04-25-2011, 08:35 AM

Here you go:




15NM = 11FT-LBS

3NM = 2.2FT-LBS or 27in-lbs

There was no torquing pattern, and you can do full torque on the first past. I prefer to get them all evenly snug first with a normal ratchet before using my torque wrench.


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Default 04-25-2011, 08:42 AM

Here is for the Throttle Body (Throttle Valve):



8NM = 6FT-LBS or 71in-lbs


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Default 04-25-2011, 02:50 PM

how do you move the valves to TDC?
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Bimmerocious Bimmerocious is offline
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Default 04-25-2011, 02:54 PM

I bolded that section in the 1st post so its easier to find
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Default 05-05-2011, 11:29 AM

What size was the nut on the crank pulley?
Also how hard was it to turn the engine over? Did you use a big breaker bar?
What type of material were the brushes made out of and how abrasive were they? Did you attach the brushes to a drill or anything to speed this process up?

Thanks for this post. I'm at 52k and curious what mine looks like. Did you ever use seafoam?


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Bimmerocious Bimmerocious is offline
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Default 05-05-2011, 12:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by N54TW
What size was the nut on the crank pulley?
Also how hard was it to turn the engine over? Did you use a big breaker bar?
What type of material were the brushes made out of and how abrasive were they? Did you attach the brushes to a drill or anything to speed this process up?

Thanks for this post. I'm at 52k and curious what mine looks like. Did you ever use seafoam?
I think I heard it was a 22mm or 7/8.
Never tried it that way.
If your 6MT its much easier to just rock the car back and forth in 1st gear. Will save you lots of time.

My brushes were brass I think. If you have a choice between that and stiff nylon, use the nylon.
They weren't too abrasive, I didn't see any scratches on the valves.
No drill, just attached them to a stick and did it by hand.

I actually just used this gun cleaning kit
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Winchester...piece/14560067

Used seafoam last oil change. Didn't do a damn thing.
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Default 05-30-2011, 09:35 AM

If you are going to use metal brushes, you have to use brass. It is a much softer metal than the valves and won't damage them. That is why gun cleaning kits have brass brushes for rodding the barrels.

Awesome first DIY! Hell, awesome DIY period, whether it was your first or not. Thanks for doing it.



2008 135i, RR CAI, Plenum and Scoops, BMW Performance Brakes, JB3! (soon to be JB4), E93 front sway bar
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Default 05-30-2011, 01:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by sargetony
If you are going to use metal brushes, you have to use brass. It is a much softer metal than the valves and won't damage them. That is why gun cleaning kits have brass brushes for rodding the barrels.

Awesome first DIY! Hell, awesome DIY period, whether it was your first or not. Thanks for doing it.
i concur, just hit up walmart for a .308 or 9mm simple cleaning kit. should have 2-3 rods and a brass brush perfect for this
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bmwfan19 bmwfan19 is offline
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Default 07-08-2011, 05:33 AM

how often you clean those valves?
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Bimmerocious Bimmerocious is offline
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Default 07-08-2011, 05:34 AM

I did it around 50k, don't plan on doing them again until I hit another 40k if I still have the car by then.
I'm going to spray meth soon, so after a few months I'll pull the intake and take a look.
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eDDuBB eDDuBB is offline
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Default 08-17-2011, 05:46 PM

Excellent post and DIY. Performed this past weekend took ~ 6 hours from start to finish given that I have never worked on this model car and did most things twice. Noticed an immediate difference in engine pitch, idle, and willingness to rev. The my car is a 2009 with 40k and intake was prototypical of the above pictures.

Understanding the DI engine I ran two bottles of SeaFoam through the diverter valve vacuum line prior to the manual scrub noting minimal real results. There were some improvements with idle however maybe 5-10% of the results from the mechanical cleaning. Again thanks for the post and pictures!!

DuBB

Minor editorial correction.

Last edited by eDDuBB; 08-17-2011 at 05:52 PM.. Reason: Minor editorial correction: Corrected "FI" to "DI"
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Default 08-20-2011, 02:23 PM

an awesome way to clean this intake would be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA7n-Q4T8hc


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jakesulivan jakesulivan is offline
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Default 08-23-2011, 11:36 AM

Nice Tutorial ! Thanks for providing it.

Performance Chips
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Default 08-25-2011, 08:13 PM

What a Job! Got three clean so far. The wire box under the throttle body is a pain. I will post pictures before and after. I have 78k miles and valves have never been cleaned.


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Last edited by Nick0780; 08-26-2011 at 11:42 PM..
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Default 09-26-2011, 03:18 PM

Just finished cleaning mine a couple days ago. Thank you so much to the OP as this DIY was a huge help. I thought it would be a lot harder but, it was actually pretty easy other than that evil screw you mentioned which I decided to just dremel it right off instead of getting frustrated with it, lol. I'll post up before and after pics soon.


'07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Next Gen Plus l JB4 G5 with DPT E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l RB Outlets l Custom Exhaust l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450 l Direct Port Meth Injection

Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7
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Bimmerocious Bimmerocious is offline
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Default 09-26-2011, 03:20 PM

Anytime!



Guess who's back, back again.


The is the worst one out of the bunch. About 10k after the valve cleaning. No catch can, all stock PCV. With meth now.
Guess we just got to live with it
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Default 09-26-2011, 07:32 PM

Why did you decide to not use an OCC?
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Bimmerocious Bimmerocious is offline
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Default 09-26-2011, 08:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Why did you decide to not use an OCC?
It's a drivers side ar occ. Meth pump was in the way. I was curious how the meth would help also.
I'll rig it up again soon. I can get the intake off in 20 mins now that I've done it a couple times. Maybe ill clean the valves again in a while and test it again with the occ on. Wanted to try another occ (big toms) or maybe an exhaust scavenge setup.
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Default 09-27-2011, 09:16 AM

Yeah, I saw that over on E90. I'm planning on spraying meth EVERY time I drive the car until I get a catch can. I might throw in a quater bottle of techron in the meth tank every few tanks as well and see if that helps.


'07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Next Gen Plus l JB4 G5 with DPT E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l RB Outlets l Custom Exhaust l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450 l Direct Port Meth Injection

Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7
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Default 09-28-2011, 06:33 PM

I promised pics so here they are. 62,xxx miles, no OCC, meth for only the last 5k miles or so, no seafoam or any other treatment (although I am the second owner and have no idea what was done to the car before 38,xxx miles).

Before:























After:















'07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Next Gen Plus l JB4 G5 with DPT E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l RB Outlets l Custom Exhaust l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450 l Direct Port Meth Injection

Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7
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Default 09-28-2011, 07:01 PM

You cleaned them up nice. Are you replacing the o-rings each time?
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Default 10-02-2011, 05:16 PM

Anybody try polishing the runners to make it so that the oil doesn't stick?



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