N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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Default 05-02-2016, 08:29 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by johmei
Wow, that wheel turned out really well with some elbow grease! What product did you use?
I use Chemical Bros in conjunction with a horsehair brush, toothbrush, and microfiber towel. It works great. I have had similar success with other leather cleaners so I think it is more to do with the process than the actual cleaner (assuming the cleaner is decent), the agitation in combination with being patient and thorough is what yields the best results.

Evan


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 05-02-2016, 12:18 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ucsbwsr
I use Chemical Bros in conjunction with a horsehair brush, toothbrush, and microfiber towel. It works great. I have had similar success with other leather cleaners so I think it is more to do with the process than the actual cleaner (assuming the cleaner is decent), the agitation in combination with being patient and thorough is what yields the best results.
Evan
Thanks for your reply Evan! I really need to set some time aside and fix my leather interiors. Keep it up and following the (re)build of one of the coolest tourings I have seen!
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Default 05-02-2016, 01:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by johmei
Thanks for your reply Evan! I really need to set some time aside and fix my leather interiors. Keep it up and following the (re)build of one of the coolest tourings I have seen!
Have a look at this..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOXGNRgjYn8
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Default 05-02-2016, 09:52 PM

1 of the multiple orders of parts I am waiting on arrived, this one included primarily a bunch of goodies for the engine rebuild.

Timing chain, cogs, crank hub and bolt, turbo return lines, serpentine belt, oil pan hardware, various seals, and clutch switch wiring.



N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 06-17-2016, 08:31 AM

Back to work on the wagon.

Even with the engine out of the vehicle cleaning the valves is still one of the least enjoyable things to do on these N54 powered cars...

Evan















N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 06-17-2016, 12:45 PM

.


07 335i e92 - JB4 G5 - MHD with Trebila Performance tune -7" VSFR FMIC- ***less ** - BMS Meth kit (1xCM7 and 1xcm10)- 75/25 - PE Exhaust - ER Charge Pipe with Tial BOV - BMS OCC- RB Next Gen Plus, eco style rb inlets, RB outlets

Last edited by alvinhobh; 06-17-2016 at 02:04 PM..
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Default 06-17-2016, 01:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by alvinhobh
Was this the first time you had the valves cleaned? I see you had a BMS OCC, did you have the OCC in for long?
This is the engine I sourced to replace my blown motor. The donor car was a 2011 335is with 35k, based off the condition I assume the valves were never cleaned prior.

Also, do you mind editing your post and deleting the quoted images to help keep my thread clean? I would appreciate it.

Evan


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 07-13-2016, 09:19 AM

...aaaaaaaaaand we're BACK! Chipping away at the wagon build...

COMPLETE
- 6AT-6MT electrical wiring
- hydraulic lines ran
- pedal assembly installed
- Manual M5 steering wheel installed

I will create a PDF or reorganize this information for the E6X guys who are inclined to do the 6MT swap themselves, there are subtle differences between the E6X and the E8X and E9X chassis.

Let's get to it,
Evan


Getting at the transfer case module and wiring which is located under the passenger carpet.


Let me at it!


To the left you can see where the transfer case harnesspasses through the transmission tunnel.


TC harness out


6AT harness bottom, 6MT E60 M5 harness top


The 6AT harness was comprised of the black connector in the middle and a single pin (gray wire) which ran to the white connector, interestingly the single grey wire did not have a mating pin in that white connector...


Close up of the M5 MT harness, it has a few extra connectors for oil temp and a couple position sensors, all I needed was the backup light switch (pen point)


The E6X Bentley manual does NOT cover the M5, it only has the N62, M54, and N54. Most of the manual evenly covers all but for whatever reason in the ECL and ELE (electrical) sections there is not N54 specific information. With the rest of the manual most of the N62 and N54 maintenance items are shared so I all the wiring diagrams I looked up were N62 specific and I had to confirm the translation to N54.

Most of it was correct but the N62 has an IVM (Integrated Voltage Regulation Module) in the DME box, the N54 does not. This was fine by me as instead of running the backup light switch to the DME box and then to the Light Module I was able to run the wiring directly from trans to LM. Here is the Bentley diagram showing BLS-IVM-LM for the N62.


I hacked up the M5 harness to create one applicable for my chassis.



I ended up ditching the T-tap and soldered the ground connections. The section with conduit is external in the trans tunnel and the shrink wrapped portion runs from the trans tunnel to the modules by the hood release and OBD port.


I ordered the "clutch switch" from BMW and this is how it arrived.


This is how it ended up (again the ground T-tap was ditched for a soldered connection).
Long Purple went to DME Box, A6000, #18
Short Purple went to CAS Module, #3
Blue went to CAS Module, #41
Brown to X13787 (see below)


Both clutch and backup light switches were grounded at X13787


Subtle differences between the pins. The one that went ot A6000 in the DME is your standard DME looking pin (think JB4). CAS and LM pins were extremely similar but slightly different as I found out the hard way, notably the CAS pin as a spine/guide where the LM pin does not.


Light and CAS Module Locations


Clutch switch wiring


Clutch switch ran to DME


Since I removed the 6AT harness and didn't need the full M5 harness I had to create a plug to keep my DME box safe from dirt and humidity so I continued to hack up the remains of the M5 harness and used a rubber plug I had lying around.




Punching out the hole for the hydraulic line


...as seen from the inside at the corner of the trans tunnel


Hydraulic hard line ran, you can see it poking up to the right of the dead pedal, electrical wiring ran, and carpet back in place. Ready for pedal assembly.


Working under the dash like this is one of the more challenging positions to work in, it is frustrating and awkward like doing *** or a water pump.


By the way, the electric motor for the steering column needed to be removed when I originally pulled the pedal assembly, the motor is a REAL treat to get out and even worse going in. The throttle pedal needs to be removed as well because to get the clutch/brake pedal assembly in position and over the master cylinder you need to tilt the assembly counter-clockwise like this...


Pedals in, hydraulic lines and clutch switch connected.


Pedals in, dead pedal mounted, MT M5 wheel installed.


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 07-14-2016, 12:51 PM

More progress.

Partially prepped the 6MT for install, the rest will wait until the trans is in the wagon. M5 spec rear end is complete now that the proper hardware is installed, once that trans is in I can make the necessary measurements and have my M5 driveshaft custom lengthed for my unique configuration.

Rear End Specs
- M5 LSD (3.62) Heat sink trimmed
- M5 Axles
- M5 Hubs
- M5 Integral Links
- M5 Upper Guide Arms
- M5 Control Arms
- M5 Brakes + SS Lines
- Custom mFactory Solid Bushings (Rubber)


Evan

Some of the new oem parts for the projects:
Upper Left: Transmission
Upper Right: Drivetrain
Lower Left: Engine Rebuild
Lower Right: Misc


Replaced some of the MT seals, installed the slave cylinder and input shaft sleeve. Waiting for some appropriate lubrication to arrive before assembling more. I also have some fresh Redline MTF which will go in shortly. E60 M5 MT output flange needs to go on but I will wait to do that until the trans is in the car so I can utilize a more effective counterhold.





Shout out to Ivan at Strasse Sport for the shirt, it is getting a lot of use protecting me on my garage floor.


Finalized the rear end, everything is bolted and torqued to spec with new oem hardware.





N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 07-15-2016, 09:22 AM

MTF flush. The seller of the trans drained most of the fluid prior to shipping so there was only a small amount left, nonetheless I got it out and put nearly the full "dry fill" amount of 1.7qt.

Evan

So easy to get all the fluid out when you can tilt and swing the trans as you need.


Royal Purple was the fluid of choice, it seems to have a proven and positive track record amongst late-model MT BMW owners.


Old MTF in shade


Old MTF back-lit


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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EvanL EvanL is offline
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Default 07-16-2016, 11:26 AM

Hey Evan, very nice build!

Quick question; you mentioned that you've experimented with different rear 'pull' rod arrangements--could you detail what you've found to be best and why? Yours has the panoramic roof, right?


'07 335i, '08 535xiT
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Default 07-21-2016, 09:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanL
Hey Evan, very nice build!

Quick question; you mentioned that you've experimented with different rear 'pull' rod arrangements--could you detail what you've found to be best and why? Yours has the panoramic roof, right?
Yes, I have a panoramic roof, I believe all US-spec E61s were equipped with it.

You can check out this thread for pictures of the different configurations: E60 M5 vs E61 M5 vs non-M E61:
http://5series.net/forums/e60-parts-...-112880/page8/

The non-M E61 pull rods run from a U-shaped brace (there are actually tubular components you can't see) that bolts to the chassis in the rear and bolt to the chassis in front of the rear wheels, making a large V shape.

E60 M5 simply rods run from the exhaust hanger/chassis brace that bridges the exhaust tunnel and bolt to the front subframe mounts.

E61 M5, in addition to what the sedans have, add rods which connect the front subframe to the chassis just behind the differential (much like the non-M E61)

In my eyes the the non-M E61 setup looks like the best routing for eliminating chassis flex with its wide mounting locations under the side skirts that run all the way back to the chassis just behind the differential. E61 M5 looks like a compromise to make room for the large heat sink found on the M5 LSD, the diamond layout and multiple pull rod setup looks inferior. *I have not data to back this up, just my opinion.

I do like how the M5 pull rods connect the subframe to the chassis, effectively making them a subframe brace. With my M5 LSD, upgraded mFactory LSD (solid rubber) bushings, and 500+rwtq this might be a welcomed addition for helping me get the power down but if an unruly subframe needs to be addressed, upgrading the subframe bushings seems like a more direct solution to that problem.

Considering I only needed to trim the heat sink on the M5 LSD (not a real concern as I don't plan to track my car or beat it for continued periods of time) to keep my non-M pull rods, it not only was the path of least resistance but also seems like the best setup period.

Evan


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 07-21-2016, 10:15 AM

I am waiting for the last remaining parts and tools to arrive before diving into my engine rebuild (timing chain tensioner seal and a crank hub counter-hold), I hope to have the rebuild completed next week/weekend!

Evan


Wagon, engine, dog, and transmissions.


Now that the rear end is done, I was able to thuroughly clean and reinstall my M5 brakes.


I am storing some wheels for my buddy (with that ST 6466 E90) garage space is tight so they are stored in my wheel wells! Great looking design! They are from a small company that once was, Forged 1.


Boot and shift knob. These will likely be a temporary solution as I plan to fabricate a gated shifter.


New-to-me oil pan arrived (eBay special) gave it a good cleaning and here is with the others.


I finished cleaning the engine bay, engine wiring harness, and the complete underbody which was either covered in oil from the blown motor of simply dirty from the 105,000 miles of service. EVERYTHING is nice and clean, just the way I like it.



Which brings me to the hurdle I will have to clear for mounting my transmission. My transmission tunnel has a large bulge and unique mounting locations for the 6AT+TC this car previously had and it is radically different than what I need to make the RWD E6X transmission support bolt to the chassis.

This will require a creative solution. I am hoping I can make a hybrid trans support which will utilize my old TC support and those chassis mounts but also reach far enough forward to properly support the MT. The good thing is there isn't a whole lot of weight the support needs to hold, it is more rotational torque from the engine. I will cross this bridge once the engine is in and the trans is mounted but this will arguably be the most "CUSTOM" part of my build...


Ordered some Redline 75w-140 (GL-5 +FM) because it sounds like people have had success with it and for the LSD flush it cost only $48, not $200+ for the oem BMW fluid, yes it is $50+ per 500ml.


Easy flush


Although those large particles seem odd, the condition of the old oil seems pretty good, it looks like it had been flushed as least once during it's previous 70,000 mile life.


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 07-21-2016, 06:15 PM

the way your explaining to reuse you transfer case mount bracket is what the f15 x5 sdrive uses as well as another bracket that houses what looks like a bushing from the transfer case. its actually kind of impressive.


07 E90 BMS DCI, ER CP, HKS BOV, MHD BEF, JB4 G5 ISO with anti lag, Alpina b3 flash, Hexon stage 1, Hexon inlets, fresh rebuild with over sized OEM pistons, thicker head gasket, E46 M3 Trans mounts, Fuel It stage 2, IS engine mounts.
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Default 07-24-2016, 11:40 AM

Lots of hard work. Love it. Amazing build to say the least


2008 535i
Jb4 G5 map 2, DCI, vrsf down *****, fingers crossed the charge pipe holds!
-phoenix racing charge pipe, rev9 intercooler, xs power BOV awaiting install....
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Default 07-25-2016, 10:37 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech513
the way your explaining to reuse you transfer case mount bracket is what the f15 x5 sdrive uses as well as another bracket that houses what looks like a bushing from the transfer case. its actually kind of impressive.
I took a look at the F15 diagram on RealOEM, that looks like an odd setup, not sure if it is the layout of the diagram that is throwing me off but the relation of the large TC style bushing to the front and rear brackets doesn't make sense. I would need to see it assembled in person.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSG03Bolt
Lots of hard work. Love it. Amazing build to say the least
Thank you. Lots of work but I enjoying the process, there should also be lots of reward once it is all complete.

Evan


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 07-25-2016, 05:27 PM

the f15 design is kinda messed up looking but it may take a little bit of work to come up with something to mimic what you need.


07 E90 BMS DCI, ER CP, HKS BOV, MHD BEF, JB4 G5 ISO with anti lag, Alpina b3 flash, Hexon stage 1, Hexon inlets, fresh rebuild with over sized OEM pistons, thicker head gasket, E46 M3 Trans mounts, Fuel It stage 2, IS engine mounts.
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Default 07-26-2016, 09:04 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech513
the f15 design is kinda messed up looking but it may take a little bit of work to come up with something to mimic what you need.
Understood. I have made some good progress with the engine recently so that should be in at the end of the week or early next week, shortly thereafter the trans will be test-fitted so take some hard measurements on the mounting points and see what I am working with.

Evan


N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
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Default 07-27-2016, 06:19 PM

Nice! glad to see more people are getting in depth with their builds.


07 E90 BMS DCI, ER CP, HKS BOV, MHD BEF, JB4 G5 ISO with anti lag, Alpina b3 flash, Hexon stage 1, Hexon inlets, fresh rebuild with over sized OEM pistons, thicker head gasket, E46 M3 Trans mounts, Fuel It stage 2, IS engine mounts.
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Default 08-05-2016, 10:02 AM

While the motor was out I investigated swapping my non-M DSC pump for an E60 M5, nearly everything else on the car is M5 so it made sense. It looks like the M5 DSC has an additional input "accelerator" sensor and I didn't want to bother with integrating that but what I really wanted to do is get the ugly ABS/DSC pump, module, hardl lines, and wiring out of the engine bay

The non-M location behind the passenger headlight is a HUGE eyesore and the M5 location behind the driver wheel liner make a lot more sense is it is location directly below the master cylinder. removing unnecessary runs of lines and improve aesthetics? My kind of mod.

After some research it looks like all I would need is the M5 hydraulic lines, the brackets for the pump, and to extend my wiring harness. I will probably create a DIY of the full process for the E6X guys but here are some pics of the process thus far. I am trying to track down the remaining hydro lines I need as I don't feel like paying "new" prices. The brackets are on the way via $31 and eBay, and the wiring harness is complete after purchasing some wiring and spending an annoying amount of time soldering all the connections.

OEM location


So ugly


Draining fluid


Overdue


Front hard lines removed


Old mounts and ugly stuff


Grdinging


Much better


Oem wiring harness


Split


New conduit


Crazy eyes


Solder solder solder solder


1/2 done


Solder solder solder solder


New routing




Motor rebuild and assembled.



In she go



Up next is the 6MT and figuring out how I am going to solve the issue with the rear support.






N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC

Last edited by ucsbwsr; 08-10-2016 at 06:48 AM..
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Default 08-05-2016, 12:32 PM

Pics aren't working
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ur20v ur20v is offline
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Default 08-05-2016, 09:03 PM

Its probably better to scrap that cross member and get some 1/4" plate laser cut into a dog bone shape that picks up all the OEM mounting bolt holes then weld in some bracing similar to those cast brases in the OEM casting- you can always add more pick up points on the chassis.

This could be made in alloy or steel if a decent TIG welder is not avaliable. Shouldn't take long.


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Ruru chen Ruru chen is offline
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Default 08-05-2016, 09:38 PM

so good!!!!!
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Default 08-08-2016, 08:34 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by sshec152
Pics aren't working
Google did away with Picasa and now the "archive" thing I am stuck with only works when viewed in Chrome. I will see what I can do about getting pics to work on all platforms like they did before.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruru chen
so good!!!!!
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by ur20v
Its probably better to scrap that cross member and get some 1/4" plate laser cut into a dog bone shape that picks up all the OEM mounting bolt holes then weld in some bracing similar to those cast brases in the OEM casting- you can always add more pick up points on the chassis.

This could be made in alloy or steel if a decent TIG welder is not avaliable. Shouldn't take long.
Yea, it may be best to just have a support built from scratch. My next move is to measure everything out so when I reach out to fabricators with info and pictures, there will be some measurements for them to work off of. Adding mounting points to the chassis is the probably the "best" solution, where I go and hack out the trans tunnel of a 535i and have it welded to my wagon.

Even with the rearward located TC mounting points I think a bracket would be a good way to go, once it is fabbed up we would have an example to copy for other E6X guys who are interested in an AWD-RWD conversion.


Evan


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ur20v ur20v is offline
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Default 08-08-2016, 06:48 PM

I would see if you can avoid a tunnel transplant- once you cut and start welding you will need to add extra material and weight to get the strenght back to the equivelent of the OEM one piece plus its VERY difficult to stop corrosion or cracking starting plus thats a lot of stripping of the car to do this eg seats, centre consol, carpets, wiring etc. Use the mount points you have and add a couple if required- try and pick up a double layer braced section of the floor and make a plate with weld on nut or Riv-nut on the inside to spread load.

It looks like a box section on the left hand side of the pictures oposite the unsupported end of the bracket- you could pick up on the back location and add say five large riv-nuts along this structure or drill right through and place washers and nuts from the inside.

Do you know if this unsupported side is the compression or tension side of the mount eg which way is the the prop turning and the reactive torque load applied?


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