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Default Stage 3 Fuel Pump Signal and Ethanol Content Sensor on same JB4 Pin - 07-20-2017, 06:41 PM

Following installation instructions to turn on my secondary stage 3 fuel pump and it wants me to plumb in the signal to pin #7. However, I have a Bluetooth ethanol content sensor wired into pins #7 and #8 already. Is there a way I can run both via JB4?


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Default 07-21-2017, 07:37 AM

The two green wires in this picture are from my Bluetooth ethanol content analyzer (7 and 8). Secondary fuel pump signal is supposed to go on #7.

Any ideas? Or am I going to have to reroute and run a Hobbs switch?



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Default 07-21-2017, 12:05 PM

The ethanol input is on pin #2 or #15 on the DB25... Maybe you have SLD wires or something else in the DB9?


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Default 07-21-2017, 12:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
The ethanol input is on pin #2 or #15 on the DB25... Maybe you have SLD wires or something else in the DB9?
I don't have any speed delimiters. I can take a closer look tonight.

Would it be my NLS/2-step wires?


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Last edited by suspenceful; 07-21-2017 at 12:55 PM..
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Default 07-21-2017, 12:59 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
The ethanol input is on pin #2 or #15 on the DB25... Maybe you have SLD wires or something else in the DB9?
I just realized this is my 2-step/NLS relay plugged into #7 & #8.

Can I move these, or install the secondary fuel pump trigger somewhere else?


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Default 07-21-2017, 01:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful
I just realized this is my 2-step/NLS relay plugged into #7 & #8.

Can I move these, or install the secondary fuel pump trigger somewhere else?
Ahh I thought so, that makes more sense. You will need an external hobbs for the second pump.


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Default 07-21-2017, 01:25 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Payam @ BMS
Ahh I thought so, that makes more sense. You will need an external hobbs for the second pump.
Dang it.

I'm sure you guys know how much of a pain it was to feed this harness up into the DME box from inside the car

Now I'll have to figure out a way to route it to the engine bay from the inside of the car.


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Default 07-21-2017, 02:09 PM

Found this via ***********/Google. Has anything been done with this? Or am I going to be stuck using a Hobb's switch for now?



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Default 07-21-2017, 02:11 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful
Dang it.

I'm sure you guys know how much of a pain it was to feed this harness up into the DME box from inside the car

Now I'll have to figure out a way to route it to the engine bay from the inside of the car.
Ahhh I had mine routed from under the car. Since the wire is already up you can just extend it a couple ft to the charge pipe. That would be the easiest/fastest way.


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Default 07-21-2017, 02:13 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful
Found this via ***********/Google. Has anything been done with this? Or am I going to be stuck using a Hobb's switch for now?

It was just released maybe a month ago. You can check your PI controller for an orange wire hanging off of it, that would be the second trigger.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-21-2017, 02:14 PM

Kept reading and found this.

http://i.imgur.com/Otl3lLy.jpg

I believe my BMS PI controller has the orange wire. Can I connect the trigger/power wire to this orange wire to activate my secondary LPFP?

Where do people install/keep the BMS PI controller box? And how can I test that the secondary pump works after hooking everything up?


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Default 07-21-2017, 06:07 PM

Hi Suspenceful,

I put my BMS PI controller in my ECU box. I too have the NLS kit and had to install the Hobbs switch. The Hobbs switch has an allen key adjuster that can be adjusted between 5-15 psi to trigger your second pump. I,m not to sure about connecting to the PI orange wire. I guess one possible downside would be that there will be a delay from when the PI triggers to when your secondary pump builds up the fuel line pressure. You will see that its working by logging the lpfp psi. It will trend higher when the second pump turn on.
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Default 07-22-2017, 12:10 AM

Thanks for the info man!

I ended up trying to trigger it via the orange wire on the BMS PI controller, but it turned the pump on 24/7, even with the car off. So I got fed up and wired in a Hobbs switch. Now it seems to be functioning normally. This was the only way I could keep the NLS/2-step relay.

Side note: I had to remove my Bluetooth ethanol content analyzer kit because the BMS PI controller required me to use the blue meth wire location (purple wire on PI controller) that I had my ethanol kit plumbed into.


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Default 03-09-2019, 12:40 PM

Hello Terry, how can I send you a direct email to ask question in reference to port injection questions? thanks
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