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HanSolo71 HanSolo71 is offline
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Car: 2008 135i 'Vert M-Sport
Default 135i Daily Driver Build Critique - 04-25-2017, 12:44 PM

I just started modifying cars for the first time (Paying my shop to do work I can't, won't, or am not comfortable doing). Can someone look at this build I want to do and let me know if they see anything I am missing, any companies I should avoid, or any companies who are better for the same price or less than the parts I currently picked.

My long term goal is to have between 450-550WHP that I can daily for at least 6 years. My real goal is to get this motor to 200,000 miles, which is why I don't want to run meth or E85.

I don't want my car to be uncomfortable and since this is a convertible it isn't going to be a track monster, I want something I can put 25-30k miles on a year, traveling with the wife reliably. This means I don't plan on lowering it much or putting too stiff of a suspension in, I really want to build a "Mini GT" car.

I haven't seen any threads about super high mileage modded N54 motors, so that has me worried.

So far I only have an oil catch can and the JB4 with the BMS Pump flash. I am doing the 1 step cooler NGK 5992 plugs and new coils this weekend. (Started getting misfires in MAP 5.)

Long term here is my build I am working on.
  • JB4 + BMS Pump Flash
  • BMS Oil Catch Can
  • Berk Catback Street Exhaust + Berk ******* **
  • CPE 135i Intercooler + Oil Cooler
  • Ground Control Street Camber Plates
  • Apex Arc 8 with 18/255/35 PS4S fronts and 18/275/35 PS4S rears
  • M3 Front Sway Bar
  • M3 Front Upper+Lower Control Arm Upgrade
  • E82 128i/135i Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit Sport Suspension Package
  • MFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential
  • Vargas Performance N54 Stage 2 Hybrid (For when the stock turbo's kick it)
  • Fuel-it! E-Series 135i and 335i Stage 2 LPFP Upgrade

This is my first time modding any car, so I would love people to look over this build and critique it for my stated uses.
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treehouse treehouse is offline
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Car: 135i
Default 04-25-2017, 02:15 PM

Honestly, you should really consider E85. It allows for cooler cylinder temps and less knock. I am shooting for the same goals. I run the following:

FBO with Stage 2 Fuel it (AA intercooler, VRSF charge pipe, Tial BoV Quiet, no inlets/outlets, CPE ***)
NGK plugs
Make sure to update injectors to rev 12
I run E85 flash through MHD
I run E50 or so... with Ethanol analyzer from Fuel-it
Mfactory LSD
Run Map 2 which hits about 18PSI with E85 flash

I have been running this way for a long time. No timing drops, turbos feel good. etc

I would say upgraded Hybrids are pretty much a disaster waiting to happen. Stockers are better for reliability...

Last edited by treehouse; 04-25-2017 at 02:20 PM..
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HanSolo71 HanSolo71 is offline
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Car: 2008 135i 'Vert M-Sport
Default 04-25-2017, 03:18 PM

So the big reason for not wanting to go E85 at all is ease of use. I want to build a cruiser I can just get in and hammer on and not need to worry about fuel mixtures and such. I know I could get a E85 sensor but the added complexity just isn't worth.

I haven't looked at my injectors and I know it is a ticking time bomb but for $1500 for just parts, I'm not going to do those until I have to.

What makes the hybrid turbo's no good? I saw that a few builds with them and for the cost they seem amazing.
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ShocknAwe ShocknAwe is offline
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Car: 135i
Default 04-25-2017, 03:41 PM

Unless I am mistaken the injectors are now covered for N54 engines to 120k miles.


2010 135i M-Sport 6MT Jet Black
N54 | Build Thread
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HanSolo71 HanSolo71 is offline
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Default 04-25-2017, 03:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
Unless I am mistaken the injectors are now covered for N54 engines to 120k miles.
So I think my car being modified voids that and if I remember correctly, I am past the age cutoff.
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ShocknAwe ShocknAwe is offline
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Default 04-25-2017, 03:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by HanSolo71
So I think my car being modified voids that
Not necessarily, depends on service mgr.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HanSolo71
and if I remember correctly, I am past the age cutoff.
Can't help ya there.


2010 135i M-Sport 6MT Jet Black
N54 | Build Thread
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HanSolo71 HanSolo71 is offline
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Default 04-25-2017, 03:59 PM

I have another 2 years and 55k miles left. Just looked it up.

What is the best way to get them to look past that?
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pits200 pits200 is offline
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Default 04-25-2017, 04:57 PM

Your thinking of the wrong cost for injectors. They can be had for about 120 to 130 a piece now. Not saying it's cheap but half the cost of 1500. Also, you only need to change 3 at a time. But I am guessing you don't have the coding to do the swap yourself so I guess you are back to being expensive.

Also, e85 doesn't really tax your injectors, the slight additional flow needed is nothing for these injectors.
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HanSolo71 HanSolo71 is offline
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Default 04-25-2017, 06:13 PM

Not using E85 isn't about my injectors, it is about not wanting to deal with one more variable in an already complex system.

Can you link me to those injectors? I don't mind doing the work, I looked up how to replace them and the work isn't hard, and once I get the INPA software I think I should be able to handle coding the new ones.
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goldfz8 goldfz8 is offline
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Car: BMW 135, Yamaha fz8
Default 04-25-2017, 10:04 PM

Your on the correct path interms of power. However reliability you will not get. To my knowledge upgraded turbos dont last anywhere near what your asking them to last. Stock turbos on stock boost maybe but even stockers go. My car had stock turbos die at 20k when the car was new. There are so many things that go and its not a question of if more like when. Oil leaks from everywhere, turbos go, coils go. Reliability goes out the window. Dont get me wrong my car has never left me stranded but everything has gone wrong once atleast and im totally cool with that because i know it will. For 200k miles you will spend the cars worth on fixing things.

I have 66k on my car and in the last 3 years/ 22k miles i have had 2 radiators, coils, injectors, ecu, 02 sensors, random fuzes, axles, boost solenoids, and probably more things. Not to mention all the maintaining that you have to keep up with.

For relaiabilty and 500ish hp get a new car like the alfa guilia. Your gonna spend the same amount of money in the long run.


2008 BMW 135i MT: Stock turbo FBO
502whp 593wtq
11.995 @122.08. 60' 2.041
3180lbs w/o driver
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HanSolo71 HanSolo71 is offline
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Default 04-26-2017, 05:56 AM

I just finished putting 25k on this car and the only major issues I had were needing to replace my VANOS solenoids and a crank position sensor.
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goldfz8 goldfz8 is offline
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Default 04-26-2017, 10:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by HanSolo71
I just finished putting 25k on this car and the only major issues I had were needing to replace my VANOS solenoids and a crank position sensor.
God bless you lol.


2008 BMW 135i MT: Stock turbo FBO
502whp 593wtq
11.995 @122.08. 60' 2.041
3180lbs w/o driver
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pits200 pits200 is offline
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Default 04-26-2017, 10:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by goldfz8
God bless you lol.
I have 116k on my car. Been tuned for the past 100k miles, upgraded GC turbos put on at 110k miles. I've had the standard problems. Vcg, ofg, boost solenoids, vanos, and some other small ticket problems. Probably have spent about 3k in maintenance and I'm at about 630awhp now.

Your situation is crazy, sorry about your luck.
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HanSolo71 HanSolo71 is offline
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Default 04-26-2017, 11:31 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by pits200
I have 116k on my car. Been tuned for the past 100k miles, upgraded GC turbos put on at 110k miles. I've had the standard problems. Vcg, ofg, boost solenoids, vanos, and some other small ticket problems. Probably have spent about 3k in maintenance and I'm at about 630awhp now.

Your situation is crazy, sorry about your luck.
It helps I don't track this car and I get it nice and hot every day. I try to get oil to temp and redline the car at least once or twice a day to make sure everything gets used.
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