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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-28-2018, 07:52 PM

I can't tell you what is causing the problem but I can say that once you find the solution, there will be another thing that will need fixing, especially on a tuned car. I'd recommend to take the money you'd spend on mechanic and buy some tools with it. That valve cover is about a $400-$500 part with new bolts included.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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(#27)
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jerimy jerimy is offline
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Car: 2011 BMW 335i M sport
Default 10-29-2018, 01:02 PM

I know, I just spent a thousand bucks to have a valve cover installed.
It's the main seals causing my problem, and I'm going to have them done by a professional.
It's one thing after another with BMW. At least mine.


2011 M Sport N55 coupe, BMS intake/ chargepipe, Jb4
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(#28)
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Tallicia Tallicia is offline
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Default 10-29-2018, 01:47 PM

I'll be live streaming me swapping my OAD alternator pulley this weekend. We'll see how it does with the little squeelies.

How long did they charge to swap the cover? Did taking the oil cap off while the noise was going make it go away? If the cap cones off and tje noise remains, i don't see how it could be a seal making noise from pressure/vacuum.
I got a new valve cover, part 11127570292 for about 100 on ebay. It's pretty easy to take a couple bolts and injection lines off and swap it.

BMW will make you a mechanic, friends with a very honest mechanic or broke.

I've had dealerships break everything they've touched on my car doing warranty work and recalls. They left out engine mount bolts, over tightened and stripped throttle body screws, broke line holders to the hpfp, cracked tabs and stretched wires routed wrong. Power steering lines magically come loose and grease appears in IAT sensor connector after a trip for the airbag recall. Like, wtf. I them on dashcam going under the hood. They had zero business doing anything under they hood. This is the different bmw dealerships. They ruined my seat even, getting some chemical on the red leather, smfh. And so much more. Every mistake customers/victims pay for.

They'll "find" so many problems just to break things that later will pop up. Every one of their supposed problems for $2000 fix is yay a hundred or 2 fire and a couple hours. Plus I get to make sure everything is truly don't right and make it even better.

Proper wire taping, looming and UV protectant on plastic and foam underhood brings a lot of life and prevents many odd things cropping up. It just takes getting used the handful of jigsaw pieces that have to come off and on like every time. Most take only a few minutes.
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(#29)
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 10-29-2018, 03:57 PM

You probably went so long with out replacing the VC that you damaged the front main seal. The sound is made by air being pulled into the crank case past the seal from high vacuum due to a bad pcv valve. When you damage the seal even normal vacuum can cause it. I'm guessing the JB4 causes a slight increase in vacuum and that is why it still happens only with JB4.
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(#30)
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jerimy jerimy is offline
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Car: 2011 BMW 335i M sport
Default 10-29-2018, 06:31 PM

That's exactly what happened. However, it happened pretty fast after installing jb4.
I got the valve cover replaced because it had excessive vacuum and when you took off the oil cap, it would stop.
The new valve cover pretty much stopped the seal sound until you turn on jb4. Which is annoying because I like the extra power from the car when on.


2011 M Sport N55 coupe, BMS intake/ chargepipe, Jb4
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(#31)
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 11-01-2018, 08:07 AM

Front and rear main seals is a big job. They will probably pull the engine for that one. I would recommend to get at least 2-3 opinions from dealerships on that before you pay someone to do it. The inline 6 engine the N55 and N54 are built on is a pretty solid engine and having both main seals blow is uncommon unless there is some kind of debris in there.
You say the noise is only when braking? Check your serpentine belt for any rubbing marks, I know the n54 335i's with worn motor mounts can make the serpentine belt rub against the subframe.
I would say if the problem goes away when the JB4 is off, then that would rule out main seals?


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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(#32)
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jerimy jerimy is offline
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Car: 2011 BMW 335i M sport
Default 11-02-2018, 08:05 AM

I have checked everything that I know of. No rubbing marks. Though it sounds like rubber squeaking against something. Front Crank seal? I don't know.

I do know however, that I have classic failed rear seal.
--( In addition to that chipmunk sound when braking and turning left. )
The noise from underneath the rear of engine, goes away when I remove oil cap.
Replaced valve cover and it quieted down a bit, but still does it with Jb4 off but it isn't NEAR as bad as after driving around in a jb4 map.

So far new coils/ plugs/, fuel pressure sensor, chargepipe, valve cover, windshield wiper relay, radiator hose, 100.00 headlight bulb, .
In 4 months I have already spent around 2 grand on replacing stuff.
Rear seal next.???


2011 M Sport N55 coupe, BMS intake/ chargepipe, Jb4
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Tallicia Tallicia is offline
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Default Solved!! - 12-06-2018, 06:36 PM

OK, I found the solution for this hamster noise and replacing the valve cover has the noise and about 3 other issues completely fixed. Oh it feels good.


http://forums.drivepe.com/threads/di...f-doom.156517/

I got a new ebay valve cover for about $100 and it took about 3 hours. It used new self tapping screws instead of bolts going into brass inserts pressed in the valve cover. Much better imho.

So the noise is gone.
It idles smooth as silk now.
Previously coming to a stop, I would be stationary and RPMS would slowly go from 1500 - 750. Now before I am stopped it's at 650 rpm rock steady.
Shifts and driving is just buttery smooth.

I'd never have thought this PCV valve could be such a PITA to nail down from the noise. But having replaced it and looking at other symptoms that I wasn't associating with a typical belt squeal like noise, it all makes sense. Chasing this for a few weeks, was frustrating, but it feels so good having her completely running great again.

Swapping it really is easy. It's just tedious. you have to remove a lot. I have a lot of pics. I even had to remove the windshield wipers. Crazy!
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(#34)
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Tallicia Tallicia is offline
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Default 12-06-2018, 06:39 PM

FWIW, I did this myself because the dealerships around here have caused more damage to my car each time. I found more indications of their mistakes as well. They replaced the valve cover gasket 30k ago and I found a broken off clip from the valve cover missing that's inside with the valve train. I also found marks where they pried the valve cover and should not have. I'm finding they are more likely to exacerbate a problem and add more problems than fix anything.
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