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Zmcada135i Zmcada135i is offline
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Default Alternator? Jb4? Serpentine belt? - 09-26-2018, 05:54 PM

Hey so first time posting here but have been lurking for the last few days trying to educate myself on the n55 and jb4 stuff. Coming from mhd n54 so things are a little different.

But anyways to the point of this thread. I'll try to be as detailed as possible, so I've recently bought a 2011 FBO 135i with a jb4.
Cool right? Not so far actually.
So from the get go I've had problems lol but my issue today is when I do a multi gear pull or a 4th or 5th gear pull at about 4-5 grand my dash lights up like a Christmas tree and all kinds of codes start happening, I dont get knocked out of my map though which is normally either map 5 but most of the time its map 6.
My first thought is the alternator because i know when these start to go our cars will throw all kinds of codes.
However this only happens during a pull. If I shut the car off normally the car will start right up and run as if nothing ever happened. I tested the alternator and it tested 14.0-14.2 even when rev'd. I tested the battery and I got anywhere from 13.8-14.4. I felt like the variance was greater due to it being hard to get a good connection directly on the battery.

So my knowledge would lead me to check the serpentine belt, check to see if its slipping or needing to be replaced.
Connections on the back of the alternator.
Possibly the ground by the front passenger side.
And the obvious battery terminals.
Am I forgetting anything?
Has this happened to anyone before? I searched and found one other person has posted about something kinda similar to this, this year back in July but no one responded to him.

Could it possibly be jb4 related? Should I go in and disconnect all the connections to eliminate interference? At this point I dont know if putting it in map zero or 4 would work.

I will say I did put it in map zero and drove it decently hard and could not replicate the problem.
Put it in map 6 and itll for sure happen on a hard pull. Map 5 is kinda hit or miss I think its because boost level are only around 14.5 which is another thing that confuses me because I run e30 and logs show me theres plenty of room to increase power. That's besides the point.

Recap, hard pull = dash becomes a Christmas tree and I'm not sure why at this point. I cant go check them all right now because it's raining so I figured I'd come here incase someone else has had this happen.

Oh and codes, I get a lot. Jb4 always says no description found beside the normally very long list of codes. Not very helpful imo.

The only code that has kinda stuck around was the battery code but will go away with normal driving and then the battery and alternator will both test fine.

Sorry if I rambled, trying to give as much info as I can. Please ask any questions and if I left stuff out. Again sorry. TIA
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AZ-MCRacer AZ-MCRacer is offline
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Car: 2013 535i (N55 F10)
Default 09-26-2018, 11:26 PM

Post a log, it may show what is causing the codes.


2013 F10 535i N55 PWG, Pure Stage 2, Wagner FMIC, ER Charge pipe, ER **, BMS Intake, JB4, Fuel-It Stage 2 LPFP, Fuel-It Platinum PI Kit, BootMod3 Flash, Remus Exhaust, Custom In-let, N20 TMAP.
1999 e36 M3 - Track Car
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Zmcada135i Zmcada135i is offline
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Default 09-27-2018, 04:58 AM

http://https://***********/u/sendit3...log=0&data=1-4

The log above is when everything went to hell

The log below was literally 2-3 mins prior

http://https://***********/u/sendit3...solo=4&mark=38
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Zmcada135i Zmcada135i is offline
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Default 09-27-2018, 05:10 AM

The log where the car over boosts to 21lbs is the log when everything goes to hell.
Attached Files
File Type: csv 2018-09-26 13_36_37.csv (15.0 KB, 49 views)
File Type: csv 2018-09-26 13_37_24.csv (11.4 KB, 51 views)
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 09-27-2018, 08:33 AM

Replace your coils with the Delphi GN ones. Had this happen to me and a friend, that was the fix.
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Zmcada135i Zmcada135i is offline
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Default 09-27-2018, 03:43 PM

So quick update, I checked the belt, appears to be fine, no squeaks or squeals. Tension appears to be good as well.
Ran map 5 today and drove it like it was track day out in the county and could not get the car to duplicate the problem.
Found bmws hidden menu and was able to watch the voltage while driving and prior to starting the battery was at 12.3 after starting the voltage ran up to 14.2 and while driving it bounced from 13.8-14.0 with the AC and radio on.
I wasnt able to do a 4th gear pull today which was when my problems manifested so at some point this week I'll try to make a point to do that.

And as far as the coil suggestion, why would changing those to Delphi make this error go away?
I feel like it's either jb4 related, alternator, voltage regulator, hell even thought battery but after today I'm not really sure where to point my finger...
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 09-28-2018, 08:34 AM

What we concluded was that the coils were drawing too much power at higher rpms/gear and causing the electrical system to freak out. You didn't see it again most likely because you didn't go into 4th bear. If your coils are old or you bought cheap replacements that might be counterfeit, I would suggest you try replacing them. I mentioned the Delphi coils as they fixed the issue for me.
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Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 09-28-2018, 11:12 AM

Not sure on electrical issue but also some tuning issues here.. Update to latest firmware, open loop to 60, relog.


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Zmcada135i Zmcada135i is offline
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Default 09-28-2018, 06:30 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Not sure on electrical issue but also some tuning issues here.. Update to latest firmware, open loop to 60, relog.
Hey Terry thanks for checking those logs out, solid call on changing fuel open loop to 60. Logs look way cleaner now I'll post them here shortly.

Update on current problems, I was able to do some solid 4th gear pulls and 4th to 5th and couldn't get the problem to manifest itself again.
So I did a solid 1-4 pull and boom got my voltage to drop down to 11.5 while driving. So I hurried over to autozone because they were close and got them to hook their volt meter up to the car.
So the run down on that, by the time I got to the store the red battery light was on...cool...left the car running and then other lights began to come on. Abs, airbags, coolant temp etc...cool...guy finally comes out to the car to hook it up and my lights are going away. By the time he checks the car the alternator is reading 14.2. We go check the battery and it shows 45% charged. Within 1 min it shows 100% charged and then says bad battery 1 min later and then back to 100%.

To me I feel strongly that there might be a dead cell in the battery. You guys have any thoughts towards that? Hopefully this info helps some.
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Zmcada135i Zmcada135i is offline
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Default 09-28-2018, 07:08 PM

I feel like they look a lot better than before, to me I feel like it could still use improvements but for the most part I dont see huge issues here. But then again I'm always learning lol
Attached Files
File Type: csv 2018-09-28 18_14_21.csv (15.3 KB, 46 views)
File Type: csv 2018-09-28 18_18_43.csv (18.0 KB, 54 views)
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Zmcada135i Zmcada135i is offline
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Default 10-18-2018, 03:17 AM

So just thought I'd update this incase anyone else has similar issues and I hate finding a thread myself with no resolution.

So after doing a bunch of testing and monitoring, and even as much as I "wanted" it to be the alternator or battery turns out it was coil related. I was running Delphi coils too. I was told the coils had gotten to hot or started "breaking down" and was back feeding an electrical current causing the computer to freak out.

So plus 1 to the guy the originally suggested that.

And luckily the dealer fixed/found this issue.
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 10-19-2018, 07:24 AM

Glad you got it fixed. I think this can be summed up as a general coil issue and not related to a specific brand. Unfortunately we can only replace all coils since a code for a specific cylinder doesn't come up.
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