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jturboawd jturboawd is offline
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Default 10-18-2017, 09:13 AM

Put together a A2W kit for my N55. Consists of S55 intercooler, tank, lines, valve cover and coil cover. A Ford heat exchange and water pump. I am using a speedtech F series inlet pipe and F30 BMS intake and the hot side intercooler lines are my own. Then a CM10 post intercooler.

When its done Ill put together a write up on it. Going for maximum efficiency. so Jeffs kit + A2W + a little meth (because why not and to trick IAT sensor). Aiming for high 10's on realistic boost. since A2W IC has minimum pressure drop it should make the boost more effective.


2012 N55 135I, Speedtech 7670, JB4 + MHD, Fuel-it port injection & stage 3 LPFP, M4 A2W IC, Mfactory LSD, KW V1, Apex EC-7, Most importantly CF Roof!
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Lowon Lowon is offline
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Default 10-18-2017, 12:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jturboawd
Put together a A2W kit for my N55. Consists of S55 intercooler, tank, lines, valve cover and coil cover. A Ford heat exchange and water pump. I am using a speedtech F series inlet pipe and F30 BMS intake and the hot side intercooler lines are my own. Then a CM10 post intercooler.

When its done Ill put together a write up on it. Going for maximum efficiency. so Jeffs kit + A2W + a little meth (because why not and to trick IAT sensor). Aiming for high 10's on realistic boost. since A2W IC has minimum pressure drop it should make the boost more effective.
Awesome! Looking forward to the results man!

Personally I don't want to spend anymore money on cooling as I've directed a huge lump sump of money towards a differential and transmission oil cooler with independent pump and fan regulators based on oil temps.

Creating a suspension setup with proper dampening, rebound, compression, camber, and general geometry is very costly lol. So I just have an aquamist kit running on pure distilled water to provide iat and in cylinder cooling. Ethanol helps too but I prefer pump only this time around.

Btw I hope you get low 10's, that'll be fricken sweet!


2017 BMW M2 - Alpine White, 6MT, Fully Loaded
Mods: Stock for now

Last edited by Lowon; 10-18-2017 at 12:25 PM..
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Stoolz Stoolz is offline
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Default 10-19-2017, 01:49 PM

So can I get a TL/DR , what is that black stuff?
I'm sure when I changed out my plugs last time they all looked like that.


2011 135i Dct coupe Alpine white n blacked out.
VTT DBB,Pure Inlet, JB4,GFB DV+,MHD,Fuel-it Platinum PI with Cm 5 - 50:50 Meth, E85, N20 tmap, Fuel It S2 lpfp, KB Boost A Spark, BMS IC /CP / IT / OCC, SG Boost Pipe, Quaife LSD, Federal RS-RR,M4 Flywheel, SSP R spec clutches, Kw V3 & Pro rolled guards, AR CL **, Bmw PE. Custom mi**ipe kitties. 1000wrms custom audio.
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(#29)
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 10-19-2017, 01:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoolz
So can I get a TL/DR , what is that black stuff?
I'm sure when I changed out my plugs last time they all looked like that.
Based on some local feedback it seems it might be from running rich rather than oil. I have a new injector that should be here Saturday and I will swap it out. Since the plug shows black deposits after only 300 miles, I should be able to check it after a week to see if the injector fixed it.
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Stoolz Stoolz is offline
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Default 10-19-2017, 03:09 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weehe
Based on some local feedback it seems it might be from running rich rather than oil. I have a new injector that should be here Saturday and I will swap it out. Since the plug shows black deposits after only 300 miles, I should be able to check it after a week to see if the injector fixed it.
Ok Thanks!
I had feeling that's what it was.


2011 135i Dct coupe Alpine white n blacked out.
VTT DBB,Pure Inlet, JB4,GFB DV+,MHD,Fuel-it Platinum PI with Cm 5 - 50:50 Meth, E85, N20 tmap, Fuel It S2 lpfp, KB Boost A Spark, BMS IC /CP / IT / OCC, SG Boost Pipe, Quaife LSD, Federal RS-RR,M4 Flywheel, SSP R spec clutches, Kw V3 & Pro rolled guards, AR CL **, Bmw PE. Custom mi**ipe kitties. 1000wrms custom audio.
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MiamiM3 MiamiM3 is offline
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Default 11-05-2017, 11:58 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weehe
Based on some local feedback it seems it might be from running rich rather than oil. I have a new injector that should be here Saturday and I will swap it out. Since the plug shows black deposits after only 300 miles, I should be able to check it after a week to see if the injector fixed it.
What was the outcome?


2011 BMW 335i M-Sport E90 AT
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 11-06-2017, 07:12 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MiamiM3
What was the outcome?
Bad injector. On/off throttle got progressively worse as well as cold start stalling. Once I swapped and coded the injector everything smoothed out. Haven't had a chance to check the plug or scope it again.
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Newguy123 Newguy123 is offline
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Default 11-06-2017, 07:36 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weehe
Bad injector. On/off throttle got progressively worse as well as cold start stalling. Once I swapped and coded the injector everything smoothed out. Haven't had a chance to check the plug or scope it again.
Sweet!


18 Glacier white RS3
#PURETURBOS
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(#34)
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 12-10-2017, 10:01 AM

As a final test I drove around normal for 300 miles on a clean plug to see if not going WOT would help. The plug actually looks worse, so guessing going WOT helps clean it idk.

I've been driving like this for over 10k miles and it still drives smooth. So the plan is to keep driving it and if it goes, do a mild build. Will be watching the current builds closely to see if built engine still have misfire/false knock issues.
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MiamiM3 MiamiM3 is offline
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Default 12-10-2017, 10:45 AM

So was it just a bad injector?


2011 BMW 335i M-Sport E90 AT
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 12-10-2017, 10:50 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MiamiM3
So was it just a bad injector?
Did you read what I wrote? Lol. Yes, but it's also probably a cracked ring that caused the bad injector.
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 04-08-2018, 07:10 PM

Update: Car has been driving fine for the last 5500 miles. Recently it has started to buck when the engine is cold, just like before. It drives fine after 2-3 minutes, with minor hiccups/misfire feel at idle. Oil consumption is still a quart per 1000-1500 miles. I replaced the plug on cylinder 4 and it fixed the bucking for a day. I have a new injector I will be putting in soon to see if it fixes it again. I changed the oil and noticed a significant (3-5x more than normal) amount of magnetic material built up on my magnetic drain plug. I am not sure what engine material is magnetic, but I did add at least 3 quarts of Rotella T6 oil between changes.

I installed MILVs about 2500 miles ago and noticed an odd sound with the engine cover off/oil cap open. Sounds like a slapping/metallic ting sounds. I'm concerned it is rod knock, but it could also be the crankshaft slapping the oil. Hasn't changed over the last 3000 miles. Let me know what you think.

Here is a pic of the cylinder 4 plug after 5000 miles. One side looks fine, other has white crust on it:



Here is a video of the sound I mentioned:
https://youtu.be/JQRHZKmBWH0

Last edited by Weehe; 04-08-2018 at 07:20 PM..
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NorCalN55 NorCalN55 is offline
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Default 04-12-2018, 10:19 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Weehe
Update: Car has been driving fine for the last 5500 miles. Recently it has started to buck when the engine is cold, just like before. It drives fine after 2-3 minutes, with minor hiccups/misfire feel at idle. Oil consumption is still a quart per 1000-1500 miles. I replaced the plug on cylinder 4 and it fixed the bucking for a day. I have a new injector I will be putting in soon to see if it fixes it again. I changed the oil and noticed a significant (3-5x more than normal) amount of magnetic material built up on my magnetic drain plug. I am not sure what engine material is magnetic, but I did add at least 3 quarts of Rotella T6 oil between changes.

I installed MILVs about 2500 miles ago and noticed an odd sound with the engine cover off/oil cap open. Sounds like a slapping/metallic ting sounds. I'm concerned it is rod knock, but it could also be the crankshaft slapping the oil. Hasn't changed over the last 3000 miles. Let me know what you think.

Here is a pic of the cylinder 4 plug after 5000 miles. One side looks fine, other has white crust on it:

Here is a video of the sound I mentioned:
https://youtu.be/JQRHZKmBWH0
Just wanted to add more information to this thread. Last fall I doing a pull and had an injector fail in cylinder 4. I had a melted plug tip in cylinder 3 and my hpfp decided to quit as well. I replaced everything and did a compression test. Compression was 160-170 except for cylinder 4, it read 90 psi. I did the test two more times on cylinder 4 with the same results. The reason I wanted to chime in on this thread is because I also have very fine metallic shavings on my magnetic drain plug. I tried to add some to a Blackstone analysis but they were not able to detect any metallic residue. I also have the same ticking noise Weehe recorded in his Youtube video.

Given the compression results, I would guess a cracked ring is the culprit. I dug the car out of storage (literally had to dig out the garage from 5 feet of snow!) two weeks ago and the ticking sound is still present. I sent another oil sample out for analysis yesterday. I am daily driving and don't notice any performance issue while under partial load. I have not done a WOT pull as I am not ready to call a tow truck. My plan is to pull the head and send it off for a rebuild when the motor does quit.

Car has 113K with oil changes every 5-6K with Liquimolly 5W30. Car has been FBO since 30K with Pure Stage 2 and Meth at ~60K. The car experiences drag racing, auto x, daily driver, and cross country driving.

Last edited by NorCalN55; 04-12-2018 at 11:24 AM..
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houtan houtan is offline
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Default 04-12-2018, 11:12 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalN55
Just wanted to add more information to this thread. Last fall I doing a pull and had an injector fail in cylinder 4. I had a melted plug tip in cylinder 3 and my hpfp decided to quit as well. I replaced everything and did a compression test. Compression was 160-170 except for cylinder 4, it read 90 psi. I did the test two more times on cylinder 4 with the same results. The reason I wanted to chime in on this thread is because I also have a very fine metallic shavings on my magnetic drain plug. I tried to add some to a Blackstone analysis but they were not able to detect any metallic residue. I also have the same ticking noise Weehe recorded in his Youtube video.

Given the compression results, I would guess a cracked ring is the culprit. I dug the car out of storage (literally had to dig out the garage from 5 feet of snow!) two weeks ago and the ticking sound is still present. I sent another oil sample out for analysis yesterday. I am daily driving and don't notice any performance issue while under partial load. I have not done a WOT pull as I am not ready to call a tow truck. My plan is to pull the head and send it off for a rebuild when the motor does quit.

Car has 113K with oil changes every 5-6K with Liquimolly 5W30. Car has been FBO since 30K with Pure Stage 2 and Meth at ~60K. The car experiences drag racing, auto x, daily driver, and cross country driving.
Thanks for sharing the information. Hopefully it is nothing serious. Please post an update when you learn more.
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albim2 albim2 is offline
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Default 05-01-2018, 02:05 AM

Any update?
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Weehe Weehe is offline
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Default 05-01-2018, 07:23 AM

Replaced the injector again and put in a clean (old) plug. Drives great again. Pulls the hardest it ever has now that I've got MILVs and a 7.5" race IC. I have a feeling it is a valve seal, so will have to find time to drop to turbo to confirm.
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