JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion
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Default 04-22-2021, 05:21 PM

That's subjective and there are a few techniques. It depends on what mods you have. For example, if you're running a built in Map like 1-2-3, the car will more than likely hold grip, so full pedal for 1-2 secs (NO MORE) and let r rip. Then there is beast mode. That's when you flip the switch, but then sit on the brake while in Drive for 2-3 minutes. Eventually you will see the A indicator on your dash start to flash. That means the car will build WAY more boost. That's where guys have hurt their tranny's. I used that technique a few track trips but found it to be too aggressive and I would spin all 4 tires, throttle would slam shut and the car would nose dive.
Now I use a different technique that seems to work fairly well. I'm cutting consistent 1.6's. At the tree I stage.. Once the lights start, eyes on the boost gauge. I watch intensely while I slowly press the pedal until 50% ish. At some point fairly quick you will see the boost go from 0's and in an instant numbers start climbing. That's when I let off the brake and floor it. To me it's safer and I can control how hard it launches.
You need a Dragy and log everything. Analyze the log to see how much boost you have once you went from 0mph to it's first indication that you moved. It will help you time your launches. I try and keep it under 8psi but I've gone as high as 15.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimboski10
I finished up this mod last night on my 2021 GT2 AWD. I have looked through the posts, but have not yet found guidance on my question, so reaching out to the group.

With the AWD...what is the best way to launch the car safely with the snip? Hold brake, floor pedal for a second, then release brake? Some other way? I want to make sure I am using this appropriately based on others experience.

Thank you!
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Jimboski10 Jimboski10 is offline
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Default 04-23-2021, 05:39 AM

Thank you very much! Super helpful...and you hit it, I don’t want to blow things up. So...more then a count of two and I am through.

I primarily run on map 2, sometimes 3 and 4. I will try both methods you suggest and hit the dragy. Are you using JB4 app to monitor boost, or the dashboard guage?
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Default 04-23-2021, 06:34 AM

JB App
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 05-27-2021, 03:23 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman70741
Here is the time slip,
I know this was a while back but I want to point out how maybe the next frontier for the Stinger is transmission control.

There is a book called; How to Hook and Launch: Traction Mods for street and strip.

You don't have to buy the book unless you want some of the information in it such as gearing, driveshaft angle, etc. The DCT does not have a torque converter so many things don't apply.

However there is a very valuable Linear Acceleration Rate chart.

Looking at your run, you were on your way to running 11.50@115 based on your 60ft and 330 times when something happen between the 330 and the 1/8 mile clocks.

Whatever happened the car slows down to exactly 7.47 in the 1/8 so your ET is 11.7x instead of 11.5x which matches the chart.

The lack of knowledge about this stuff with some of our younger enthusiast is simply astounding.

As to what happen, I am going to say whatever the shift point for 3-4 is it's wrong and that's why transmission control is the next hurdle.


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turboAWD turboAWD is offline
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Default 05-27-2021, 04:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djfourmonie
I know this was a while back but I want to point out how maybe the next frontier for the Stinger is transmission control.

There is a book called; How to Hook and Launch: Traction Mods for street and strip.

You don't have to buy the book unless you want some of the information in it such as gearing, driveshaft angle, etc. The DCT does not have a torque converter so many things don't apply.
What do you mean by this? AFAICT, the discussion is about a Stinger, which has a normal auto trans with torque converter. I believe some Velosters have a DCT, but I don't think that's the case here.
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Djfourmonie Djfourmonie is offline
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Default 05-27-2021, 04:25 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by turboAWD
What do you mean by this? AFAICT, the discussion is about a Stinger, which has a normal auto trans with torque converter. I believe some Velosters have a DCT, but I don't think that's the case here.
I was talking about the time slip posted.

I was under the impression it was a standard dry/wet clutch DCT and did not have a torque converter.

If it does, I stand corrected and that can be looked into.

The point I was making is that the car is under the clocks to run quicker than 11.50 at the 60ft and the 330 time, but somewhere between the 330 and the 1/8 mile clocks it slowed down to where it ran as predicted 11.72 in this case because it's 3+ mph more than required to go 11.75 it ran a touch quicker than .75

The 1/8 mile time was exactly what the chart says to run 11.75.

To run 11.75 your slip should look somewhat like this

60FT - 1.58
300 - 5.89
1/8th Mile - 7.47
1/4 Mile = 11.75@112.2

To run 11.50 is should look somewhat like this -

60FT - 1.55
330 - 5.75
1/8th Mile - 7.30
1/4 Mile = 11.50@115.00

His first two increments looks like he's on the way to an 11.00 pass

60FT - 1.49
330 - 5.49


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MNStinger MNStinger is offline
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Default 07-02-2021, 07:40 AM

Did this the other day and it seems to working as expected...what a difference. But...is it normal to have the flashing orange 'A' after 10 minutes of driving? Seems to come on every time I go out for a drive, but takes about 10 mins and then never goes away until I turn the car off.


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D-Rail_Trail D-Rail_Trail is offline
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Default 07-02-2021, 10:36 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNStinger
Did this the other day and it seems to working as expected...what a difference. But...is it normal to have the flashing orange 'A' after 10 minutes of driving? Seems to come on every time I go out for a drive, but takes about 10 mins and then never goes away until I turn the car off.
That's, "beast," mode. It's mentioned several times. Better be careful with that. As AWDGT2 mentions many times you don't need/want that for your best launch. However, yes it is normal.

Last edited by D-Rail_Trail; 07-02-2021 at 10:37 AM.. Reason: Direct answer to question
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MNStinger MNStinger is offline
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Default 07-02-2021, 10:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rail_Trail
That's, "beast," mode. It's mentioned several times. Better be careful with that. As AWDGT2 mentions many times you don't need/want that for your best launch. However, yes it is normal.
OK, I was thinking beast mode required that you were actually sitting on the brake and waiting for the light to start flashing vs just normal driving and it coming on...I'll def be quite careful about that...thanks!


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Crashcade Crashcade is offline
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Default Did you find a better spot? - 07-11-2021, 10:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNStinger
Has anyone traced the wire that needs to be cut? I'm just looking for a different/more inconspicuous spot to make the cut rather than right next to ecu...
I am thinking the same thing, maybe under the dash. Where I can tape it all back up to appear OEM.
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Crashcade Crashcade is offline
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Default 07-11-2021, 10:35 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
At some point I need to chase the wire down to the pedal assembly to see if we can make an adapter there. Just not been able to get to it yet.
Terry, any luck finding time to trace this done. The PnP approach is a more appealing approach especially with 4000 +/- miles on it. Being able to cut it under the dash even seems like it would be an easier pill yo swallow.
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KillerBeeAirsoft KillerBeeAirsoft is offline
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Default 08-01-2021, 08:02 AM

Cut mine at ECU and bought the same style harness tape I found online. Ran the toggle switch thru the firewall so can turn it on/off as needed. Dealer most likely will never open the harness unless there had to trace some sensors. If you do need to bring car to dealer, make sure clear the P0504 A/B correlation code history if you happen to get one.
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Jimboski10 Jimboski10 is offline
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Default 08-01-2021, 08:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBeeAirsoft
Cut mine at ECU and bought the same style harness tape I found online. Ran the toggle switch thru the firewall so can turn it on/off as needed. Dealer most likely will never open the harness unless there had to trace some sensors. If you do need to bring car to dealer, make sure clear the P0504 A/B correlation code history if you happen to get one.
How do you clear the code?
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KillerBeeAirsoft KillerBeeAirsoft is offline
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Default 08-01-2021, 09:06 AM

You can clear it with JB4 if it shows up, but best way is use something like an Autel. For some reason the Launch tool won’t clear codes or history codes in my car.
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Default 08-01-2021, 09:07 AM

This is what the history code showed up as. ( sorry for poor quality photo )
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Last edited by KillerBeeAirsoft; 08-01-2021 at 09:19 AM.. Reason: Forgot photo attachment
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dwitness dwitness is offline
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Default 08-10-2021, 12:23 PM

Does the brake light fuse off work exactly the same seem the location would be perfect for a interior switch
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Default 08-10-2021, 01:03 PM

I ran a toggle switch thru firewall to toggle switch. Works fine.
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dwitness dwitness is offline
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Default 08-10-2021, 01:48 PM

Yes but with the fuse its reversable no ecu wire cutting does this work?
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bosaad bosaad is offline
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Default 08-10-2021, 10:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwitness
Yes but with the fuse its reversable no ecu wire cutting does this work?
Yes, it's working fine , and you can use Fuse Bypass Switch like this bx88271.
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EdsNotHere EdsNotHere is offline
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Default 08-10-2021, 11:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBeeAirsoft
I ran a toggle switch thru firewall to toggle switch. Works fine.
Yep sometime too fine. ����



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(#246)
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Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 08-11-2021, 08:43 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashcade
Terry, any luck finding time to trace this done. The PnP approach is a more appealing approach especially with 4000 +/- miles on it. Being able to cut it under the dash even seems like it would be an easier pill yo swallow.
Sorry never got back to it.


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Crashcade Crashcade is offline
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Default 09-08-2021, 10:00 PM

Does anyone know what the pin size is for the ecu connector, or where to get them? I’m thinking of pushing the pin out of the harness and making a pigtail to fit back into the harness so that I don’t have to cut any wires. Then I can connect the pin to my switch or a longer wire to run my switch inside the vehicle.

It would’ve awesome if BMS would make a pigtail to allow the removal of pin 83 and provide wire/pin to put in the factory plug.

Is there any place else to splice a switch in that is less obvious?
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Crashcade Crashcade is offline
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Default 09-09-2021, 10:41 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwitness
Does the brake light fuse off work exactly the same seem the location would be perfect for a interior switch
Did you ever try this? Did it work? Is the brake light fuse in the panel to the left of the steering wheel?

Thinking about heading to the track this weekend but not worth it on factory LC.
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heko heko is offline
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Default 09-12-2021, 10:28 AM

several starts, once pulled to 3500 rpm. and the transmission thanked you for your cooperation
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WhiteKnight1130 WhiteKnight1130 is offline
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Default 09-18-2021, 01:30 AM

Why must this mod be switched on and off. On the G70, we do not have the Ignition Start Stop, so couldn't I just cut the wire and leave it if all other systems still are supposed to work?
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