SMOKING ISSUE? DIY PCV FIX! - N54Tech.com

robc1976 · **SMOKING ISSUE? DIY PCV FIX! -** 08-23-2015, 03:14 PM

(THIS DIY IS INTENDED FOR UPGRADED TWINS OR SINGLE TURBOS)

I was having problems with my car smoking and a good friend of mine (Aubeast) shared a system that he had designed and had been working on for several months so I followed his suggestions and fabricated the necessary components to make it happen. This is the same line routing as he uses, same fittings but I did a few things differently due to having a top mounted turbo.

***A HUGE THANKS AND SHOUT OUT TO JASON (AUBEAST) FOR CONTINUING TO CONTRIBUTE TO THIS COMMUNITY!***

NOTE: Do NOT use any different size fittings or lines. What I specify is what is required and has been tested to work.

NOTE 2: I am NOT responsible for any damage done to you or your car when attempting this DIY. This is not a project for a novice. I suggest taking the manifold and fitting to a shop to be modified - I have the proper tools to be able to accomplish this at home by myself.

This PCV fix has totally eliminated all smoke at idle, wide-open throttle and cruising! This system pulls vacuum at idle and wide-open throttle. Use of an OCC between intake and AD fitting is HIGHLY suggested. I also suggest using an AD Engineering OCC or a modified BMS OCC, as I did. Link below for my modified BMS OCC DIY.

CUSTOM OCC LINK: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28787

Also - as you'll see in my BMS OCC DIY - the head ports were tapped and plugged. It is absolutely essential for this system.

STEP 1 - FLAPPER VALVE ASSEMBLY:

(You can use rubber or -AN lines, I highly Suggest -AN. Below is a link to my DIY on -AN lines)

-AN LINE DIY: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20780

STEP 2 - 2 RB VALVE & AD FITTING MODIFICATION:

STEP 3 - MANIFOLD DRILLING & TAPPING:

In this process, slow is key to prevent cracking of manifold!

STEP 4 - FILTER MODIFICATION / VACCUM SOURCE:

(I have a top-mount turbo so yours might be different)

STEP 5 - LINE ROUTING:

Use only -8 AN Line to manifold and AD fitting and -12 AN Line for vaccum source. If you're using rubber, use equivilent size.

Cynical · 08-23-2015, 04:39 PM

Pretty sick Rob. Much simplier than tapping the head and more effective.
-carbone.

robc1976 · 08-23-2015, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cynical

Pretty sick Rob. Much simplier than tapping the head and more effective.
-carbone.

Head has to be tapped still though, keeps pressure off VC ect

Cynical · 08-23-2015, 04:41 PM

Damn was hoping doing this circumvented that

robc1976 · 08-23-2015, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cynical

Damn was hoping doing this circumvented that

Tapping the head is easy man! Its not bad

blisstik · 08-23-2015, 04:59 PM

Hmmm, doesn't the flapper side have oil coming out of it as well? So oil eventually builds up and ends up on the intake?

Just wondering why didn't you keep the flapper delete valve from AD?

robc1976 · 08-23-2015, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blisstik

Hmmm, doesn't the flapper side have oil coming out of it as well? So oil eventually builds up and ends up on the intake?

Just wondering why didn't you keep the flapper delete valve from AD?

its a 2 part system. Have to have flapper. The system without didn't pull vac at idle...only WOT. This system pulls vac at idle and WOT

blisstik · 08-23-2015, 06:11 PM

Got it. Is there a hybrid PCV valve to what you did with RB+AD? I didn't get why that was necessary as well.

Stucks · 08-23-2015, 06:25 PM

man that is a busy engine bay lol.

nice diy tho!

robc1976 · 08-23-2015, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blisstik

Got it. Is there a hybrid PCV valve to what you did with RB+AD? I didn't get why that was necessary as well.

The AD engineering fitting is used in conjuction with RB valve so you have a external vac and PCV

robc1976 · 08-23-2015, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stucks

man that is a busy engine bay lol.

nice diy tho!

Lol! ! ,

AUbeast86 · 08-23-2015, 07:45 PM

Great job on the DIY man! Well done!

Terry @ BMS · 08-23-2015, 08:49 PM

This might be a better way to do the same thing without the need for two oil catch cans and a special adapter. Just make sure to have some sort of a restrictor on the intake manifold side. Maybe using a 1/4" fitting there for example, so it can't pull too much vacuum at idle.

robc1976 · 08-24-2015, 05:33 AM

Update:

A few people where worried about pressure going to the PCV valve so I will update DIY

Aubeast did say his original design did have a vibrant check valve between manifold and OCC with arrow pointed towards manifold. I will add this to the OCC DIY. That will keep the pressure away from the PCV valve some are so worried about.

robc1976 · 08-24-2015, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS

This might be a better way to do the same thing without the need for two oil catch cans and a special adapter. Just make sure to have some sort of a restrictor on the intake manifold side. Maybe using a 1/4" fitting there for example, so it can't pull too much vacuum at idle.

I like the way the BMS OCC will have 2 in my setup lol!

N54 TuNeR · 08-24-2015, 05:46 AM

The stock check valve doesn't close all the way,the flap does close but there's a port for blow by back into manifold.You think replacing that with a check valve that closes fully under load is better?

AUbeast86 · 08-24-2015, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR

The stock check valve doesn't close all the way,the flap does close but there's a port for blow by back into manifold.You think replacing that with a check valve that closes fully under load is better?

Absolutely not. I've already experimented with that and it pulls an absolute vacuum on the crank case which makes all the seals in the engine howl. That hole is needed because the MAP sensor in the intake manifold is looking for a specific vacuum that is calibrated by that hole in the flapper valve.

Rob@RBTurbo · 08-24-2015, 08:04 AM

I'm really enjoying that AUbeast86 has been working on this and gets the entire picture. I believe he is the first I've seen in this community to be quite honest.

Terry's schematic right off has one large issue, under low loads there is no filtration to occur, meaning there is no filtered air displacement pull into the crankcase as it is "vacuumed". Second to that it appears under low load there would be full plenum vacuum, not a "controlled" vacuum, as there should be via the flapper valve. The high load scenario however would work, and is a direct replication of the OEM and this DIY.

Rob

N54 TuNeR · 08-24-2015, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AUbeast86

Absolutely not. I've already experimented with that and it pulls an absolute vacuum on the crank case which makes all the seals in the engine howl. That hole is needed because the MAP sensor in the intake manifold is looking for a specific vacuum that is calibrated by that hole in the flapper valve.

Thanks for clearing that up

AUbeast86 · 08-25-2015, 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR

Thanks for clearing that up

No problem.

Vertigo · 08-25-2015, 07:08 AM

Nice work Jason! Very clean and well thought out!

Nordic335IM3 · 08-25-2015, 08:19 AM

question:

could you weld a venturi plug in the exhaust and hook that up to the flapper plug??

AUbeast86 · 08-25-2015, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nordic335IM3

question:

could you weld a venturi plug in the exhaust and hook that up to the flapper plug??

Only if you want to suck exhaust into your crank case under idle.

Nordic335IM3 · 08-25-2015, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AUbeast86

Only if you want to suck exhaust into your crank case under idle.

.. ah well...

Nordic335IM3 · 08-25-2015, 01:09 PM

so if it gets hooked up straight to the PCV outlet , without the oem flapper, what would then happen, any problems?..

(other then its not street legal)

better or worse than oem setup.. offcourse no oil sucked into intake which is good..