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Vroom Vroom is offline
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Default 03-13-2012, 10:57 AM

3/7 Firmware Changes:
2) For those running FSB meth kits: We removed the MethFlowScaling=99 setting. Start using a MethFlowScaling=60 setting instead for proper meth operation.

Does this apply if you have FSB w/ a flow sensor?
Either way, what does this setting do?
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(#4077)
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 03-13-2012, 11:00 AM

Only applies to those using the JB4 and FSB directly, without a CMGS/VC2. Mostly just an internal change but also improves part throttle meth mapping, and makes low flow diagnostics easier.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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swallowbarn swallowbarn is offline
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Default 03-13-2012, 11:09 AM

Is there a setting (apart from right foot) that eases the transition from throttle on to throttle off, it can be a bit of a hard transition? Particularly noticeable on a full throttle bend when the traction kicks in. Running a stock Z4 35i map 5 with 99 octane UK.
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(#4079)
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jetblack07 jetblack07 is offline
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Default Map 6 settings - 03-13-2012, 04:57 PM

Why change map 6 settings? For those of us who don't use it...just curious


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(#4080)
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Default 03-13-2012, 05:31 PM

Only "all map AFR" must be updated per the first post.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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ace008 ace008 is offline
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Default 03-14-2012, 12:40 AM

I've been running the all map AFR using the old firmware settings back 9/11 maps for a few weeks. I just changed it back now to match the 1st post. Any negatives in not matching the settings in the 1st post?
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(#4082)
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mmx mmx is offline
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Default 03-15-2012, 07:45 PM

I installed my JB4 on Sunday and have been loving my car all over again. However, I just realized I did something stupid due to not reading the instructions in the first post: I didn't update the AFR settings. I'm an idiot, I know.

When I installed the JB4, I simply started and stopped the car (once I confirmed the installation was correct) then went ahead with a firmware update using the latest 3/7. I was so eager about the TPMS fix that I did not see the red text in the first post about AFR values having to be re-saved. Have I screwed something up because of my lack of attention?

Anyway, I'll be taking apart the ECU and updating the AFR values this weekend. Going to run on Map 0 till then. I am hoping the unit I ordered from n54tuning.com already had the latest values, but I doubt Mike updates them before shipping them out.
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Default 03-15-2012, 07:54 PM

Why are you guys taking apart the ECU for updates? You leave the cable on top of the DME cover under the black plastic cover for instant access!


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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(#4084)
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mmx mmx is offline
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Default 03-15-2012, 08:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Why are you guys taking apart the ECU for updates? You leave the cable on top of the DME cover under the black plastic cover for instant access!
I was strictly following the PDF for installation instructions. It didn't mention anything about routing the cable, so I didn't consider it.

How bad is the damage for using incorrect AFR values?


JB4 G4, DCIs and '94 (RM2)
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Default 03-15-2012, 08:03 PM

Not bad just doesn't give you full proper performance. Put the USB cable on top of the DME box to save time later for updates, etc.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 03-15-2012, 09:28 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmx
I was strictly following the PDF for installation instructions. It didn't mention anything about routing the cable, so I didn't consider it.

How bad is the damage for using incorrect AFR values?
there is routing info in diy to rout it through the glove box very easy to do also think its in the first post that way you can do logs and i bet dozens of guys updated without changeing afrs till the red notation showed up later . just change them and your good to go.
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chuckd05 chuckd05 is offline
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Default 03-15-2012, 09:38 PM

I routed mine under glove box and keep it stowed away under the plastic trim on the passenger side by you knee. I just leave the USB tip out. I have a ton of slack this way too. It's great. Def atlesat leave the cable stowed under the black cap. In time you're gonna wanna log it and running it through your window is not ideal lol. Just route it once and be done with it. Only pita is lifting the ecu up enough to feed it through the hole. An extra set of hands is a help in that regard.


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(#4088)
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Brahmzy Brahmzy is offline
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Default 03-16-2012, 08:12 AM

Yep - cable in the glove box - don't have time to be dickin' with shiz every time an update comes out or I need to change something.


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(#4089)
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Default 03-16-2012, 08:19 AM

So easy to run the cable in the glove box. No need to cut anything, the hole is already there at the bottom of the white box. Without the cable in the glove box you can't log.
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Default 03-16-2012, 09:47 AM

Glove box is very easy but for many who only update once or twice a year throwing it on top of the DME and just lifting one black cover and running it in the window is even easier!


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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(#4091)
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DocHarriers DocHarriers is offline
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Default 03-17-2012, 05:48 AM

I've had an idea. Not every 335i has Bluetooth wired up by default. BMW USA put in the Bluetooth module, but doesn't enable it. That means that there's 2 buttons on my (and many other people's) steering wheels that could be optionally used - the ones labelled with a phone and Banshee. I'd like to see an option to allow hijacking of the buttons, to allow them to be used for our own purposes.

What I would hope for is to allow them to switch between groups of settings. For example, since I set off for work at a ridiculous time in the morning, and then park in an underground car park at work, I'd rather my car wasn't noisy when I set off eithe rin the morning or on my way home. Likewise I find that while CANflap ir normal at low speeds the car responds to my driving style better, but CANflap open once I get to the highway makes it more smooth and responsive. I'd love to be able to switch between those two settings easily. I figure the easiest method for usability would be to combine groups of settings we can change on the fly and have those buttons cycle through a list of them.

As an example, if I had a list consisting of:
  1. Map 1, CANflap closed
  2. Map 1, CANflap open
  3. Map 1, CANflap closed, MaxCool on.

... then I could start up in group 1 (having left that from the previous trip), when I get to the highways switch up to the next group, And when I hit the outskirts of my home town I can hit the last set of config. When parking up, back to the first set by rolling off the end of the list.

The obvious problem is UI - how do you indicate which group you're in? I think my solution to that is to indicate something in the dash after a config load. A 1 or 2 second flash of the mapped gear number might suffice for this, but it does limit to only 6 configs. I don't expect to use more than 6 config groups, though. I suspect 2 or 3 is probably what I'd use, maybe a 4th for testing. A flash of "M1" for first group, "M2" for second, maybe. I don't know if that can be done without affecting the gearbox, and whether it'll work at all for stick shift cars.

We'd need a way of adding groups and removing groups too, otherwise out-of-date groups would hang around forever. Likewise, we'd need to separately be able to enable and disable the whole device or get to Map 0. I don't want to dick about trying to skip a config I only use when it's time for someone to turn off a service light for me when I'm trying to enjoy a drive.
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(#4092)
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DocHarriers DocHarriers is offline
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Default 03-17-2012, 05:54 AM

A question, separated into another post for ease of possible removal. When I first got the JB4, Map 5 wasn't advised/what people were choosing. I haven't been keeping up on this thread. What is the current status of it?
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(#4093)
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Default 03-19-2012, 03:33 AM

Hi guys , why does my wastegate adaptation value keeps going to 130 after a run. ????



If you are not going JUICE BOX then you are going SLOW
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Default 03-19-2012, 06:33 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Glove box is very easy but for many who only update once or twice a year throwing it on top of the DME and just lifting one black cover and running it in the window is even easier!
Hi Terry, I went ahead and did this yesterday. I connected the USB cable to the JB4, ran it over a gromet in the ECU box and then secured the cover on top. Once I screwed in the cover, I left the USB cable (with the USB plug covered with a resealable bag) on top of the ECU box cover. I then placed the passenger-side airbox on top. Is this correct?

Another place I thought of leaving the USB cable was next to the sensors that you remove when first removing the passenger-side airbox. I was worried about it getting wet during rainy days though.


JB4 G4, DCIs and '94 (RM2)
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(#4095)
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xbox_fan xbox_fan is offline
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Default 03-19-2012, 07:10 AM

running the usb cable into the glove box is well worth the 5min it takes when one installed the JB4 IMO...
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DocHarriers DocHarriers is offline
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Default 03-19-2012, 07:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by xbox_fan
running the usb cable into the glove box is well worth the 5min it takes when one installed the JB4 IMO...
I thought this. I have had trouble with the cable routing. I could lift up the inside of the DME box, and see the hole it was supposed to be stuff through, but it didn't seem to want to actually go through. I was wodnering if there was a difference between left-hand drive and right-hand drive cars that might account for this.
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idnan idnan is offline
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Default 03-19-2012, 08:17 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHarriers
I thought this. I have had trouble with the cable routing. I could lift up the inside of the DME box, and see the hole it was supposed to be stuff through, but it didn't seem to want to actually go through. I was wodnering if there was a difference between left-hand drive and right-hand drive cars that might account for this.
My 335i is right hand drive and I managed to feed it through the hole in the DME box. I did have to remove the actual DME and all the plastic parts inside it to get the ideal angle for the cable to go through.
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DocHarriers DocHarriers is offline
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Default 03-19-2012, 08:19 AM

I'll give it another go, then, next time I have a cause to be in there. Thanks.
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iv55 iv55 is offline
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Default 03-19-2012, 08:53 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHarriers
I thought this. I have had trouble with the cable routing. I could lift up the inside of the DME box, and see the hole it was supposed to be stuff through, but it didn't seem to want to actually go through. I was wodnering if there was a difference between left-hand drive and right-hand drive cars that might account for this.
Patience is the name of the game with this one. It really helped me to put the cord in the hole as much as it would fit and then look for it on the other side in the car. It took me a little massaging from within the car to coax it all the way through.


2007 E92 N54, JB4 G5 ISO W/ BMS Flash, RB Turbos, Meth W/ FSB & CM10, BMS DCI, BMS OCC, CPE FMIC, AR Design CLDP's, ** Fix, Quaife LSD
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BOosted 335i BOosted 335i is offline
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Default 03-19-2012, 10:43 AM

What I used to fish cable through was a piece of thin metal snake used to snake electrical wiring.took literally seconds.just tape one end & its through.you do it once its easy after that.
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