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mcduvall2000 mcduvall2000 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Car: 2008 E92 335i
Default Oil pan gasket, mods to do? - 07-17-2018, 06:34 PM

OK, so I had some recall work done and they said my oil pan gasket is leaking and the mechatronic sealing sleeve needs replaced. I had a feeling my pan was leaking but went ahead and replaced the OFHG's VCG, walnut blast and misc gaskets since it just rolled over 100k in hopes it may have been leaking from those. Anyways, since I'll be dropping the subframe soon, are there any mods I should go ahead and do while it's down? It looks like dounpipes might be a little easier to install, but not sure what else. Oh and I already have JB4 and DCI. Thanks
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Riceball777 Riceball777 is offline
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Car: 2007 e90 335i
Default 07-18-2018, 12:15 AM

Pure stage 2 turbos.

2007 e90 335i
pure stgae 2 DD turbos, rb inlets, bms 4 bar map sensor
Jb4 with mhd hybrid e85 back end flash, vrsf down pipe vrsf 7" intercooler, vrsf charge pipe with tial bov and afe intake. Fuel it stage 2 pump and fuel line/ethanol content kit.
spec stage 2+ clutch with new oem dmfw
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NoQuarter NoQuarter is offline
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Car: 2008 535xi
Default 07-18-2018, 09:29 AM

Control arms, bushings, motor mounts ?
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dmckmc dmckmc is offline
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Car: E60 535i
Default 07-18-2018, 01:47 PM

Possibly silicone inlets, especially the rear-along the firewall. You'll likely have your belt off to move the P/S pump so you should replace the belt and check the tensioner/pulleys. Down Ps are easier for sure with the frame down. Trans fluid and pan/filter while it is in the air and you need to do the mechatronic sleeve anyway.

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EconIsLyfe EconIsLyfe is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Car: 2008 335i
Default 07-18-2018, 06:50 PM

Water pump (and thermostat) if you haven't gotten a replacement in the past 50-75k
D P 's are definitely easier with the subframe dropped.
And as someone mentioned, motor mounts.
Couldn't hurt to get all your vacuum hoses done too if they're OE

A couple weeks ago I was in the exact same boat you are (just JB4 and DCI's, OFHG done, but pan gasket leaking). I decided to drop 6k on it to go FBO and upgraded turbos (MMP 1k's). I'm at about 480hp now and loving every bit of it

2008 335i coupe, 6MT

JB4/BEF, DCI, MMP 1k turbos, MMP Inlets/Outlets, MMP D P, MMP CP, Tial BoV, VRSF 7" FMIC, Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP, Port Injection, Spec 3+ and smfw
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mcduvall2000 mcduvall2000 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Car: 2008 E92 335i
Default 07-18-2018, 09:58 PM

-The water pump and thermo were replaced about 15k ago.

-Trans fluid and pan 12k ago.

-I'm nervous about pulling vacuum hoses off plastic pieces b/c when I did the walnut blasting, the nipple broke off one of the vacuum canisters.

-How did the oil pan gasket change go for you? any headaches?

-Would I need to replace the whole control arm? or just the bushings in it?

-How difficult are motor mounts to replace if you don't mind me asking?

-I'm not sure I really want to drop a bunch on new turbos right now, so that might have to wait lol.

Sounds like dounpipe's and inlets would be the performance stuff I should do along with some other preventative maintenance. also why does this asterisk dounpipes on here? lol
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Car: 535i
Default 10-12-2018, 10:59 AM

Motor mounts: If you are pulling the subframe, they are not difficult at all to replace. There are 3 external torx bolts that bolt each one to the subframe. You will want to replace these with new ones if you install new motor mounts.

Vacuum hose: If you're pulling the subframe, I recommend you replace these as well. Its a cheap part, I replaced my vacuum hose with 3.5mm ID silicone vacuum hose. If you are worried about breaking stuff while pulling off the old vacuum hose, its because you shouldn't be trying to pull the old vacuum hose off! I take an razor blade and cut the vacuum hose off. The new silicone vacuum hoses pull right off things like the vacuum canisters with no issues. I've done it many times, never broke a nipple.

Oil pan gasket: you will need to pull and remove the subframe for this. You cannot lower the subframe and have the struts hold it up, your suspension components will hit things and you risk breaking/cracking little stuff here and there. working under the car with the subframe supported by jacks offers you little to no room if the car is on jack stands. I removed the subframe/steering rack/ars/front suspension components all at once. I removed the rotors from the car and left he brake calipers connected to the car and supported them with zip ties until I put the subframe back. If you plan on doing this job, you will need to have a good amount of knowledge on how the car is put together as well as a good amount of tools and an accurate torque wrench to torque the aluminium bolts to spec.

Control arms: you will want to replace the whole control arm and bolts/nuts you remove. BMW states you can replace just the bushings, however you can only replace the bushings once before you need to replace the whole control arm. Since removing/pressing in new bushings is a pain without a press and the cost savings isn't substantial, replace the whole control arm/bushing as one.

Inlets: I have silicone inlets installed on my car. It requires you to remove the **'s as well as the only way to remove the stock rear inlet is by cutting it off near the turbo. Make sure you shop vac the hell out of the turbo as that side of the turbo feeds air into the engine. Also installing the rear inlet is not an easy feat, you need to pull very hard on the thing to get it into place. You will be SOL if you cut off the stock inlet and can't get the new one installed. That being said, inlets and down ***** offer a significant increase in power.

DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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