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nardo19 nardo19 is offline
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Default 09-05-2019, 05:52 PM

Update on my JB4, no boost, and P0000 codes

So, I took my car into dealership after removing JB4. The code was for "underboosting." The problem was almost certainly my fault for re-installing my intake incorrectly at the coupler. I have high suspicion there was a leak at the coupler and possibly also at the DV valve.

After reinstalling (again) and tightening everything up, no more codes. So, I decided to reinstall my JB4. I ran all the wiring under the stock airbox and kept them zip tied down below as far away from the engine as I could towards the driver side front headlight.

The result has been fantastic. I no longer have any codes AND I have NOT had the phantom "no boost" problem since that time. Not once. I've been running the car daily for two weeks now without a single instance of the boost failing to engage.

I now suspect this issue could have something to do with interference (eg where you run your wires may be relevant) or perhaps a poor connection at the connectors. Unless it just randomly solved itself, which I find to be unlikely.
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Default 09-06-2019, 03:27 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nardo19
Update on my JB4, no boost, and P0000 codes

So, I took my car into dealership after removing JB4. The code was for "underboosting." The problem was almost certainly my fault for re-installing my intake incorrectly at the coupler. I have high suspicion there was a leak at the coupler and possibly also at the DV valve.

After reinstalling (again) and tightening everything up, no more codes. So, I decided to reinstall my JB4. I ran all the wiring under the stock airbox and kept them zip tied down below as far away from the engine as I could towards the driver side front headlight.

The result has been fantastic. I no longer have any codes AND I have NOT had the phantom "no boost" problem since that time. Not once. I've been running the car daily for two weeks now without a single instance of the boost failing to engage.

I now suspect this issue could have something to do with interference (eg where you run your wires may be relevant) or perhaps a poor connection at the connectors. Unless it just randomly solved itself, which I find to be unlikely.
Keep us updated.


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Default 09-06-2019, 03:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nardo19
Update on my JB4, no boost, and P0000 codes

So, I took my car into dealership after removing JB4. The code was for "underboosting." The problem was almost certainly my fault for re-installing my intake incorrectly at the coupler. I have high suspicion there was a leak at the coupler and possibly also at the DV valve.

After reinstalling (again) and tightening everything up, no more codes. So, I decided to reinstall my JB4. I ran all the wiring under the stock airbox and kept them zip tied down below as far away from the engine as I could towards the driver side front headlight.

The result has been fantastic. I no longer have any codes AND I have NOT had the phantom "no boost" problem since that time. Not once. I've been running the car daily for two weeks now without a single instance of the boost failing to engage.

I now suspect this issue could have something to do with interference (eg where you run your wires may be relevant) or perhaps a poor connection at the connectors. Unless it just randomly solved itself, which I find to be unlikely.
Mine has been moved to behind the headlight, however the no boost is still happening.


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tegxsi tegxsi is offline
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Default 09-06-2019, 09:56 AM

I did a board swap and I noticed the car drives better at low/part throttle when the JB4 should not be active if that makes any sense. Boost comes on quicker and smoother so there is some improvement in the circuitry. I ran the new board for a week trying to trigger the low boost condition. It's happened twice but this is much better than the REV1 board that I have been running for 8 months. I would have this problem at least once a day on the old board.


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nardo19 nardo19 is offline
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Default 09-06-2019, 12:23 PM

Glad its working better for you. I know you've been fighting this for a while now. I have the Rev2 as well. Here is how I routed my cables and since haven't had the issue. I don't know if this helped anything at all or what could even be the issue, but i'm much happier with the product

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The wires are zip tied down where I'm pointing. You can see one of them. Most of the slack was pulled out and kept away from other wires/electronics

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You can see here how I routed under the airbox. You cannot even really see the wires barely at all now.
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Default 09-07-2019, 12:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nardo19
Glad its working better for you. I know you've been fighting this for a while now. I have the Rev2 as well. Here is how I routed my cables and since haven't had the issue. I don't know if this helped anything at all or what could even be the issue, but i'm much happier with the product

Attachment 89586

The wires are zip tied down where I'm pointing. You can see one of them. Most of the slack was pulled out and kept away from other wires/electronics

Attachment 89587

You can see here how I routed under the airbox. You cannot even really see the wires barely at all now.
Most of mine are tucked down and aren't visable from the top, the boost module is in front of the airbox now, still happens though, I've asked George if it's possible to get a revised board, will wait and see i guess.


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Default 09-07-2019, 08:24 AM

The issue certainly seems to be something related to signal filtering. We made an adjustment in rev 2.2 that seems to have helped some. We're also working on an aluminum enclosure for the system. I'm hoping that makes some further improvement.


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RSthree RSthree is offline
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Default 09-07-2019, 09:45 PM

Don't know if it makes a difference but all my BCM wiring is in conduit. I don't like exposed, messy wiring, so I covered it. Maybe that provides some shielding.
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Default 09-08-2019, 06:11 AM

See I did jinx myself. . My car didn't loose boost but today I accelerated WOT in third gear and car was really slow to build boost. Sluggishly accelarated until about 5.5k then started to come on more. This was going up an incline so under load.
It could be my imagination but 2 Nd gear seems to be getting stronger, mid range punch is really nice.
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tegxsi tegxsi is offline
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Default 09-08-2019, 10:32 AM

The boost issue existed before the BCM module.
The annoying thing about is when I overtake and the car just makes loud noises but doesn't go anywhere fast. I've tired staying WOT and shifting up and down with the paddles but it's just stuck in the funk.


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Default 09-09-2019, 01:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSthree
See I did jinx myself. . My car didn't loose boost but today I accelerated WOT in third gear and car was really slow to build boost. Sluggishly accelarated until about 5.5k then started to come on more. This was going up an incline so under load.
It could be my imagination but 2 Nd gear seems to be getting stronger, mid range punch is really nice.
That's exactly what i've experienced, it feels like it's really slow sometimes at building up boost, the at other times it's like all hell breaks loose.


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cc61940542 cc61940542 is offline
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Default still have boost issue - 09-15-2019, 05:52 AM

I received a new board, but still no boost everyday,Itís crazy when itís normal, but most of the time itís not boosted properly.
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Default 09-15-2019, 05:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cc61940542
I received a new board, but still no boost everyday,Itís crazy when itís normal, but most of the time itís not boosted properly.
Just sent you a email to test for first gear and changing to additive.


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nardo19 nardo19 is offline
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Default 09-20-2019, 09:08 AM

Hey George! Hope this finds you well. I've been bitten by the bug and its time for an ECU tune. I plan to run JB4 in tandem due to its safety features, but when I was telling a guy about this, he said that JB4 cannot monitor the safety of the motor any better than the ECU can already do on its own. I recall you guys telling me that it can detect knock in all 5 cyl, whereas the ECU cannot? Or did I get that wrong. Can you please itemize what benefits JB4 has over the ECU tune, and why its a good idea to run it stacked? thank you!
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Default 09-20-2019, 09:17 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cc61940542
I received a new board, but still no boost everyday,Itís crazy when itís normal, but most of the time itís not boosted properly.
Have you tried repositioning it and reseating all the connectors? I haven't had it happen to me once after I did this. I also ran the wires away from any other electrical to make sure there's no interference. I can't help but feel that issue has to be related to positioning since I had this problem terribly and now its working absolutely fantastic
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Default 09-24-2019, 11:38 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by George @ BMS
Just sent you a email to test for first gear and changing to additive.

Still patiently waiting for a reply to my question above
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Default 09-24-2019, 02:19 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nardo19
Still patiently waiting for a reply to my question above
Sorry about that.
You can run it in map 0 in pass through mode and take advantage of the lean protection and boost safety. If you go this route email me and we can set it up.


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Default 09-24-2019, 02:22 PM

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Originally Posted by George @ BMS
Sorry about that.
You can run it in map 0 in pass through mode and take advantage of the lean protection and boost safety. If you go this route email me and we can set it up.

Great! Yes, but I was more asking how JB4 differs in the ECU's standard safety features, and what addt'l benefits it offers that the ECU cannot. I am specifically asking because I often see posts on FB that speculate on this topic, and its nice to have the information so I can advocate why it might be a good idea to stack them and run in tandem - versus selling the JB4 altogether (or some might want to purchase one even if they already have a tune). It seems like it would be a worthwhile combo, but I cannot explain that adequately unless I know the details. Cheers
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Default 09-24-2019, 03:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nardo19
Great! Yes, but I was more asking how JB4 differs in the ECU's standard safety features, and what addt'l benefits it offers that the ECU cannot. I am specifically asking because I often see posts on FB that speculate on this topic, and its nice to have the information so I can advocate why it might be a good idea to stack them and run in tandem - versus selling the JB4 altogether (or some might want to purchase one even if they already have a tune). It seems like it would be a worthwhile combo, but I cannot explain that adequately unless I know the details. Cheers
With the JB4 you can define a maximum boost level before boost is dropped, it can monitor AFR and abort a run if it shifts too lean, or if fuel pressure drops too low. The factory tuning will let you chug along at high boost with dangerous vitals for reasons unknown. If using WMI there are also more advanced safety systems to avoid tip in knock, detune if fluid runs low, etc. And those are just the basics already in there. We have some additional RS specific safety systems we're testing here.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 09-24-2019, 04:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
With the JB4 you can define a maximum boost level before boost is dropped, it can monitor AFR and abort a run if it shifts too lean, or if fuel pressure drops too low. The factory tuning will let you chug along at high boost with dangerous vitals for reasons unknown. If using WMI there are also more advanced safety systems to avoid tip in knock, detune if fluid runs low, etc. And those are just the basics already in there. We have some additional RS specific safety systems we're testing here.
That's absolutely fantastic information. Thanks Terry! I plan to stack - my only hope is that on map 0 - we don't encounter the phantom boost drop. Even so - its not happened to me again in a while - or if it has, i haven't noticed. so i definitely plan to do this. but its nice to know I can have additional safety. thanks for your time.
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i.ivanov01 i.ivanov01 is offline
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Default 10-03-2019, 12:22 PM

Hi guys,
So I have a problem and a question.
I own RS3 8v2 and I just installed my JB4. I noticed from time to time that the car loose come power. 2nd gear full throttle - all good, than 3rd great still throttle is down goes OK to 5000rpm and lose power. Still accelerates but very slow. Pul back the gas, hit it again and all is good. Whan can be the problem? I run Map 2. So far I got on my car Wagner ******** kit without precatalyst converter and 2x 200CPSI Racing catalyst.
And the second thing is - If I remove the racing catalyst and put the original strait *****, will there be some light going on the dash because of it or with JB4 I can fix it?
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Default 10-03-2019, 01:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by i.ivanov01
Hi guys,
So I have a problem and a question.
I own RS3 8v2 and I just installed my JB4. I noticed from time to time that the car loose come power. 2nd gear full throttle - all good, than 3rd great still throttle is down goes OK to 5000rpm and lose power. Still accelerates but very slow. Pul back the gas, hit it again and all is good. Whan can be the problem? I run Map 2. So far I got on my car Wagner ******** kit without precatalyst converter and 2x 200CPSI Racing catalyst.
And the second thing is - If I remove the racing catalyst and put the original strait *****, will there be some light going on the dash because of it or with JB4 I can fix it?
That is the boost loss issue we trying to work out.

Not sure if I understand but with stock pipe you can clear the lights. If you put a straight through pipe relative you will get engine lihgts.


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i.ivanov01 i.ivanov01 is offline
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Default 10-03-2019, 02:15 PM

Yeah I know that I’ll get engine light, but of you remap your ECU you can lie the sensor somehow and you don’t get engine light. I’ve seen 2 cars with strait pipe and no problem. Can I lie the sensor with JB4 as well?
Today once I got some error with code : 5F2F
on the JB4 it doesn’t have description I couldn’t even find it on google. Does someone knows what it is?
Also please let me know when you fix the part with the boost loss.
Thanks

Last edited by i.ivanov01; 10-03-2019 at 02:47 PM..
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tegxsi tegxsi is offline
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Default 10-03-2019, 06:10 PM

A remap would have been better choice for stage 2 mods.


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i.ivanov01 i.ivanov01 is offline
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Default 10-05-2019, 03:55 AM

So the problem is still going on.
I was driving the car for 10 days with ********* and there was no problem.

I fitted the JB4 and for the last 3 days I always have error “5F2F” and I cannot clear it. Also the engine light is ON.
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