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Default 05-04-2015, 10:59 PM

More optimistic update.


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Default 05-04-2015, 11:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by firemanjust1
I am sorry to hear about your issues. From someone who has a auto and was ready to turn up the boost myself this is very disappointing news from you and Terry over the weekend. My question is what is Level 10 saying to you guys who spent 4-5k just to see subpar results. Please tell us what they are prepared to do for someone who just spent this kind of cash. I am curious to see what level of support they will offer once these problems are brought to their attention. I know we are pushing the envelope here but man for 5k for what is supposed to be 1000hp ready thats very disturbing business practice to sell a trans rated for that and be slipping with 600/700 hp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkiedm4
Yup what does Level10 say? They must have a response to this.
Level 10 does offer a 1 year no questions asked warranty. When I started testing this yesterday they were already closed so I couldn't ask them. Things are looking better though so I'll keep this thread updated as things develop.


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Default 05-04-2015, 11:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacpro91
More optimistic update.
Lets hope it all works out!


F21 M140i - 100-200: 5.18 60-130: 5.96
Audi TTRS - 100-200: 4.01 60-130: 4.5
F80 M3 - 100-200: 4.32, 60-130: 4.8
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(#104)
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Default 05-05-2015, 05:17 AM

I recently swapped in a fresh 6at trans to my car with the level 10 valve body and torque converter. Sorta felt kinda weird the first 200 miles (i drove it very gently and went through several warm up and cool down cycles). after that i upped the boost and it seemed like it just had to get used to things, because now at just over 900 miles on the new trans, things are good. shifts are fast and crisp. seems these things just need to get used to how you drive the car.

I think I read you are using oem fluid? I am running redline d4 and it runs good for me.


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Default 05-05-2015, 07:31 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkiedm4
Yup what does Level10 say? They must have a response to this.
I really hope they do because that is not much better than a stock auto.


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Default 05-05-2015, 07:33 AM

Looks like manual may be the way to go. Maybe the bog between shifts can be fixed easier.


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Default 05-05-2015, 07:37 AM

Looks like level 10 is more like level 0 to me.
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Default 05-05-2015, 07:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Looks like manual may be the way to go. Maybe the bog between shifts can be fixed easier.
Right now 6MT swap is without question the most cost-effective and viable solution, though I don't think anyone has really figured out a "solution" to the shift bog and throttle closure issues.

A few folks have done it....I can't imagine it being more than $4-5K all said and done, which is no more than you'd be paying for a "built" 6AT that may or may not hold the power. At least with the manual, you know damn well it'll hold 6,7,8xx WHP.
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Default 05-05-2015, 07:42 AM

Maybe the trans requires adaptation time? Like 1k miles or so. Or reset adaptations like the DCT when you upgrade the clutchpack (Didn't Terry also do this on his M3 dodgson upgrade DCT?)


F21 M140i - 100-200: 5.18 60-130: 5.96
Audi TTRS - 100-200: 4.01 60-130: 4.5
F80 M3 - 100-200: 4.32, 60-130: 4.8
F20 M135i (sold) - 100-200: 6.26 , 60-130: 7.4
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Sabre Sabre is offline
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Default 05-05-2015, 07:55 AM

Find a real fix for the post shift bog and everyone wins IMO.
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Default 05-05-2015, 08:18 AM

I will be going with a valve body and torque converter upgrade. Thank goodness that DMAC and Terry posted this information.

Got in touch with IPT this morning and they said that its a waste of money to beef up the hardware if we can't control the TCU.

Thanks guys!


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Default 05-05-2015, 08:27 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 135pats
Right now 6MT swap is without question the most cost-effective and viable solution, though I don't think anyone has really figured out a "solution" to the shift bog and throttle closure issues.

A few folks have done it....I can't imagine it being more than $4-5K all said and done, which is no more than you'd be paying for a "built" 6AT that may or may not hold the power. At least with the manual, you know damn well it'll hold 6,7,8xx WHP.
And it's lighter weight. But it's not without its trade offs as well.


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Default 05-05-2015, 09:21 AM

Personally I've found if you can keep even half throttle on when you shift the manual there is no shift bog at all. But then you aren't shifting well. If there was somehow to incorporate into the tune to keep whatever its keeping when you do that without keeping the RPM at redline, that would solve the issue.


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Default 05-05-2015, 10:00 AM

The DME wants to see gas pedal released, clutch in, clutch out, RPM fall, gas pedal pressed. It might be that its only logical check for that process though is RPM falling before gas is pressed. Which the NLS handles. We may want to change the NLS logic to be a little more intrusive as well. Perhaps cutting power at any pedal input when the clutch is in.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 05-05-2015, 10:04 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
The DME wants to see gas pedal released, clutch in, clutch out, RPM fall, gas pedal pressed. It might be that its only logical check for that process though is RPM falling before gas is pressed. Which the NLS handles. We may want to change the NLS logic to be a little more intrusive as well. Perhaps cutting power at any pedal input when the clutch is in.
Let me know when you're ready. I'll try and slap the relay on. AFAIK pin 7 to USB is trigger ground for second pump. Do I splice it in there or is there another place I need to put it in.


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(#116)
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Default 05-05-2015, 10:06 AM

No the 2nd pump has to be relocated to a Hobbs switch on the chargepipe first.


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Default 05-05-2015, 10:31 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
No the 2nd pump has to be relocated to a Hobbs switch on the chargepipe first.
Back to square 1 LOL.


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Default 05-05-2015, 12:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
The DME wants to see gas pedal released, clutch in, clutch out, RPM fall, gas pedal pressed. It might be that its only logical check for that process though is RPM falling before gas is pressed. Which the NLS handles. We may want to change the NLS logic to be a little more intrusive as well. Perhaps cutting power at any pedal input when the clutch is in.
Terry, my buddy has been talking with level 10 and they are aware of your slippage and said they are 100% blaming the misfires for the slippage since it effects the TCU.

Thoughts?


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Default 05-05-2015, 12:53 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Terry, my buddy has been talking with level 10 and they are aware of your slippage and said they are 100% blaming the misfires for the slippage since it effects the TCU.

Thoughts?
Not a good sign.
Terry did say in that run he didn't get misfire.


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(#120)
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Default 05-05-2015, 12:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Terry, my buddy has been talking with level 10 and they are aware of your slippage and said they are 100% blaming the misfires for the slippage since it effects the TCU.

Thoughts?
That is nonsense.

I'm not a trans expert but I think it's not shifting the 4->5 consistently at higher power levels because of some valve body related issue. Maybe they need to make the openings larger, etc.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 05-05-2015, 01:13 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
That is nonsense.

I'm not a trans expert but I think it's not shifting the 4->5 consistently at higher power levels because of some valve body related issue. Maybe they need to make the openings larger, etc.
It would have been nice of them to offer to look at it at least right?
You got to make it and break it couple of times until you get it right.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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(#122)
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Default 05-05-2015, 01:28 PM

Maybe if you contact them directly that would help?


F21 M140i - 100-200: 5.18 60-130: 5.96
Audi TTRS - 100-200: 4.01 60-130: 4.5
F80 M3 - 100-200: 4.32, 60-130: 4.8
F20 M135i (sold) - 100-200: 6.26 , 60-130: 7.4
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Default 05-05-2015, 01:39 PM

I'm curious to see what they say about your transmission as well.


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VM 6466 Single Turbo Kit | JB4 | BMS Flash via MHD | Fuel-It Stage 3 | BMS Port Injection | E85


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Default 05-05-2015, 02:26 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
That is nonsense.

I'm not a trans expert but I think it's not shifting the 4->5 consistently at higher power levels because of some valve body related issue. Maybe they need to make the openings larger, etc.
I agree, that's why I wanted you to know


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Default 05-05-2015, 02:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ando @ BMS
It would have been nice of them to offer to look at it at least right?
You got to make it and break it couple of times until you get it right.
I don't like the fact that they have obviously seen this thread and made no attempt to contact.


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