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kcranmer kcranmer is offline
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Default 10-06-2019, 04:10 PM

OK, so I hooked it up today. The car seems to run fine and no CEL. I took it for a spin around the block and pushed it once up to 5,000 RPM but that was it. Does this need some time before I should really feel something? I am going to give it a drive to work tomorrow which is around 12 miles each way.
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Steven TMAN Steven TMAN is offline
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Default 10-06-2019, 05:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcranmer
OK, so I hooked it up today. The car seems to run fine and no CEL. I took it for a spin around the block and pushed it once up to 5,000 RPM but that was it. Does this need some time before I should really feel something? I am going to give it a drive to work tomorrow which is around 12 miles each way.

Did you update firmware?
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Default 10-06-2019, 05:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcranmer
OK, so I hooked it up today. The car seems to run fine and no CEL. I took it for a spin around the block and pushed it once up to 5,000 RPM but that was it. Does this need some time before I should really feel something? I am going to give it a drive to work tomorrow which is around 12 miles each way.
If you need tuning help you'll have to record a JB4 log at full throttle.


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kcranmer kcranmer is offline
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Default 10-06-2019, 06:32 PM

Do these not ship with the latest firmware? In able to upgrade I need to purchase the cable or wifi is that correct?

As far as tuning, I don't think that is necessary. The goal was to add some extra HP easily and since the car is a lease I really don't want to mess with anything. I am open to any options to tune it easily but keep in mind I am by all means a total noob and don't profess to be anything but. Thanks for all your help.


2020 Kia Forte GT
JB4 Map 1
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Default 10-06-2019, 07:00 PM

Systems ship with production firmware. BETA firmware posted here will be newer. If you don't have the JB4 mobile setup it will be on map1, and you can't change the map or anything, so enjoy. logs are for people who run in to issue and need help or want to push it harder.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default Cause for concern? - 10-07-2019, 07:21 AM

Still trying to get an idea of my ignition timing is ok.

Are these peaks for Ignition 1, trending towards redline an issue? Not sure if it's advancing or pulling timing.

I just want to make sure I'm not pushing the car too hard with the 93 octane I have locally, using Map 2.

Thanks.
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Default 10-07-2019, 08:07 AM

Normal.


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Default 10-07-2019, 08:15 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Normal.
Thanks. Is this timing figure "advancing" as boost drops and RPMs increase?

I'm assuming it is since the #'s are rising.

I had done some pulls on Map 0 to compare against, sort of as a baseline, "all systems normal" reference and didn't see the ignition timing peak like that.
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Default 10-07-2019, 08:32 AM

Yes timing increases as engine speed increases per its internal mapping.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 10-07-2019, 10:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Yes timing increases as engine speed increases per its internal mapping.
10-4. Thanks for the input.
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kcranmer kcranmer is offline
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Default 10-07-2019, 04:54 PM

I noticed today at idle I have intermittent sputter. I don't remember if the engine did that or not prior to installing the JB4. During acceleration I don't seem to notice anything. Any ideas? I guess I should take it off and see if it does it again. Ran out of time and daylight today to remove it. Also I am assuming the enclosure is supposed to get really hot? I didn't much of a choice where to mount it so I hook and looped it to the top of the fuse box (I think it's the fuse box). Also had the fan wrong a long time after I shut the car off. I never had a car do that before and was wondering if that is normal or did the enclosure being really hot cause the fan to run?


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JB4 Map 1
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Default 10-07-2019, 05:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcranmer
I noticed today at idle I have intermittent sputter. I don't remember if the engine did that or not prior to installing the JB4. During acceleration I don't seem to notice anything. Any ideas? I guess I should take it off and see if it does it again. Ran out of time and daylight today to remove it. Also I am assuming the enclosure is supposed to get really hot? I didn't much of a choice where to mount it so I hook and looped it to the top of the fuse box (I think it's the fuse box). Also had the fan wrong a long time after I shut the car off. I never had a car do that before and was wondering if that is normal or did the enclosure being really hot cause the fan to run?
There was a change to something that might improve idle quality in the v11 BETA firmware, so I'd get that updated if you have an issue.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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kcranmer kcranmer is offline
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Default 10-07-2019, 06:49 PM

ok. I'll get the data cable and try the firmware upgrade. The latest version is 11_3 it looks like is that correct? Also, Do you think closing the gap on the factory plugs would help the idle?


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Default 10-08-2019, 05:35 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcranmer
ok. I'll get the data cable and try the firmware upgrade. The latest version is 11_3 it looks like is that correct? Also, Do you think closing the gap on the factory plugs would help the idle?
If you're running stock plugs with the OE gap, regardless of the idle, do it anyways. lol.

At a bare minimum close the gap on the stock plugs to the recommended size. I just went ahead and installed the recommended Denso plugs, re-gapped to whatever was recommended since you're already in there pulling stuff out.

I had read that some owners were still having plug blow out even after re-gapping.
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kcranmer kcranmer is offline
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Default 10-08-2019, 05:58 AM

Crap, what did I get myself into? This isn't like I remember with my 87 Mustang LX 5.0 20 or more years ago!! I ordered a plug gapping tool last night. I just read something over on a stinger forum about changing the plugs and it seemed like a process. I have climbed under a hood in a long time and just remember wrenching out the old and putting in the new. Is this something I really shouldn't tackle myself? I never heard of spark plug blowout prior to today and not I'm not so confident I should be tinkering with a brand new car but I'm sure I still will. Just don't want to F it up just to gain a few HP.


2020 Kia Forte GT
JB4 Map 1
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Default 10-08-2019, 12:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcranmer
ok. I'll get the data cable and try the firmware upgrade. The latest version is 11_3 it looks like is that correct? Also, Do you think closing the gap on the factory plugs would help the idle?
Yes or swapping them. On the 4bangers the plugs are easy to reach.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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psykostevo psykostevo is offline
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Default 10-08-2019, 08:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcranmer
Crap, what did I get myself into? This isn't like I remember with my 87 Mustang LX 5.0 20 or more years ago!! I ordered a plug gapping tool last night. I just read something over on a stinger forum about changing the plugs and it seemed like a process. I have climbed under a hood in a long time and just remember wrenching out the old and putting in the new. Is this something I really shouldn't tackle myself? I never heard of spark plug blowout prior to today and not I'm not so confident I should be tinkering with a brand new car but I'm sure I still will. Just don't want to F it up just to gain a few HP.
Only two of the plugs are a pain to reach. But use the flex joints on your ratchet so that you don't have to take the intake manifold off. Even then they are still a chore, but nothing as complicated as a full upper intake manifold removal.
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Default 10-09-2019, 01:51 AM

^ or just pay $100-$130 and get a guaranteed professional to do it...like I did.

You paid this much so far...why cheap out now? Unless you love doing this stuff of course.


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Team Tonka Team Tonka is offline
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Default 10-09-2019, 06:54 AM

Terry, can you check these out please. I increased the settings to 4.3 for Map 6 boost at 1500, 2000, and 2500 RPM.

First is a 0-60 run
Second is just short drive from a stop.

Thx!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Tonka
Oops. I think I entered my values incorrect.

I'll try 4.3 @ 1500RPM and 4.3 @ 2000RPM and try again.
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Manchuz Manchuz is offline
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Default 10-09-2019, 08:04 AM

Hello, new member here and new owner of JB4. Can you kindly look at my map 1 readings and see if they're fine.

Dumb question, but how do you know if you've installed the fuel wires correctly? Can you see it in the readings? I installed the plug and play cables and did a bit of hack and slash job on the wires to add quick disconnects.

Thanks

|Denso @ 0.022|CAI|91 octane|v11_3|not sure what my elevation is
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Default 10-09-2019, 09:19 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Tonka
Terry, can you check these out please. I increased the settings to 4.3 for Map 6 boost at 1500, 2000, and 2500 RPM.

First is a 0-60 run
Second is just short drive from a stop.

Thx!
Seems fine to me


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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psykostevo psykostevo is offline
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Default 10-09-2019, 10:04 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefer
^ or just pay $100-$130 and get a guaranteed professional to do it...like I did.

You paid this much so far...why cheap out now? Unless you love doing this stuff of course.
Been doing it 20 years, I like doing this stuff.
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atr1 atr1 is offline
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Default 10-11-2019, 04:44 AM

Hello

I did the firmware update to the v11 and my user adjustment values are weird.
I have never set a map6 but all is filled with values,
and my boost safety is set to 28.9 (was 21).
N20 TMAP is also set to 1 and I have no clue about what it is.
WMI settings also changed a bit.
I am very worried.
Did I do something wrong?
(I updated from v9 to v11 skipping v10)

Thanks

Last edited by atr1; 10-11-2019 at 04:45 AM.. Reason: thanks
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Default 10-11-2019, 07:54 AM

All normal. After loading v11 you'll need to recale your map6 and boost safety values back. TMAP will remain at 1 (you can't change it to 0).


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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atr1 atr1 is offline
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Default 10-11-2019, 08:31 AM

Indeed I tried to disable it and it didn't work.
(I panicked and reverted to version 9 lol)
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