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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default Clutch Options - full bolt-on - 11-03-2020, 01:04 PM

Hi Folks,

Just recently I finished adding my outlets to my full bolt-on mods to my 08 bmw 335 n54. I run option 5 on m JB4 with pump 91 or 94 gas (canadian)

Recently when in 6th gear, i opened my throttle and my revs shot up while not making the car go forward hardly at all. Since then I've babied the acceleration and it's still limping along, but I'm quite sure the original clutch (184k kms) is done, which is why I am here.

I'm guessing I'm around 400 HP (not dyno'd those are rare and very expensive around here) is what I'm putting down, though I'll likely end up with a single turbo or RB 2's from RB to push 500-550 HP in the future.

With that said, What clutches are solid bets and which should I stay away from?

Additional details:
- This is my daily (well I don't actually need a car, but it's my car that i drive) - I'd like to not have a super heavy clutch pedal (I get it will be more stiff.)
- I'm not tracking my car but am quite spirited in and around the city.

Feed free to give me turbo upgrade suggestion too, thank you!

Last edited by Pinscher; 11-03-2020 at 01:12 PM..
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fn42 fn42 is offline
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Default 11-04-2020, 05:46 AM

I have the south bend stage 3 "daily" on my e90 and the spec stage 3+ on my e61

The south bend clutch is a lot heavier. Like forget letting your girlfriend drive it heavy. For daily driving it is a lot smoother than the spec though (spec has almost no friction zone, and I dont like how it engages like 3/4 of the way up)


335xi sedan 6mt / MMP 1k turbos / MHD FlexFuel + AIC6 PI / South Bend Stg3 clutch
535xi wagon 6mt / ebay 17t / FBO
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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default 11-04-2020, 08:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by fn42
I have the south bend stage 3 "daily" on my e90 and the spec stage 3+ on my e61

The south bend clutch is a lot heavier. Like forget letting your girlfriend drive it heavy. For daily driving it is a lot smoother than the spec though (spec has almost no friction zone, and I dont like how it engages like 3/4 of the way up)
Sounds like those two i should stay away from.

I suppose it's possible what I'm looking may not exist.
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KevinC39 KevinC39 is offline
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Default 11-04-2020, 01:37 PM

The 550i clutch is actually really good in my opinion. If you're not launching the car all the time, that's what I'd do. Pretty cheap too.
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BeatupVR4 BeatupVR4 is offline
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Default 11-05-2020, 07:18 AM

I just recently did an MFactory flywheel and 550i/335is clutch with a stainless line and delay valve delete. Minus the rattle at idle from the flywheel the setup is perfect for my mostly daily driven E60.

I'm on RB Ones and 93 pump.

I did the clutch only because I thought my original one was slipping at 128K miles with 50k of that being on map 5. Ends up the clutch disc had like %80 of it's thickness left but my oil pan was leaking oil into the bell housing causing it to slip.

Also of note is my buddy has an 08 E91 with 245k miles on it with the original clutch still.
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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default 11-05-2020, 09:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
I just recently did an MFactory flywheel and 550i/335is clutch with a stainless line and delay valve delete. Minus the rattle at idle from the flywheel the setup is perfect for my mostly daily driven E60.

I'm on RB Ones and 93 pump.

I did the clutch only because I thought my original one was slipping at 128K miles with 50k of that being on map 5. Ends up the clutch disc had like %80 of it's thickness left but my oil pan was leaking oil into the bell housing causing it to slip.

Also of note is my buddy has an 08 E91 with 245k miles on it with the original clutch still.
Interesting, can you elaborate on your stainless line and delay valve delete.

I have not seen anyone deleting valve's or adding lines in the install videos I've seen. thank you!
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KevinC39 KevinC39 is offline
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Default 11-05-2020, 10:18 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinscher
Interesting, can you elaborate on your stainless line and delay valve delete.

I have not seen anyone deleting valve's or adding lines in the install videos I've seen. thank you!
https://burgertuning.com/products/bm...w-clutch-valve
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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default 11-05-2020, 11:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinC39

Thanks, that's a super easy install too! so i guess the line is to the valve?

Any reason to get one over the other?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uuc-part...BoCFq8QAvD_BwE
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...BoCU8AQAvD_BwE
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BeatupVR4 BeatupVR4 is offline
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Default 11-05-2020, 12:53 PM

Mine was the ECS brand and red. The one you linked doesn't look quite right with that threaded 90 bend in it.

Of note you don't need the BMS part. It's just a "spacer" at that point. The ECS line plugs in at the car and then right to the slave. I was able to bend the holding bracket a smidge and it's holding the line now. Doesn't seem to be an issue with length at all on my X-drive E60. Kind of like the restrictor was an afterthought add on. My IS300 manual was the same way.

If you crack the hydraulic system on the clutch you will probably need a power bleeder to then bleed the clutch. I had seen video's of people doing it without one but I tried 5 or 6 times and had no luck. After the power bleeder got it on the first try.

This is the one I got
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../018166ecs01a/

Also did the bronze pivot and pilot bearing. On the pilot bearing definitely do the grease and punch method. A regular pilot bearing puller destroyed the **** outta the old one and it was a PITA to get out.

Last edited by BeatupVR4; 11-05-2020 at 01:09 PM..
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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default 11-06-2020, 12:10 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
Mine was the ECS brand and red. The one you linked doesn't look quite right with that threaded 90 bend in it.

Of note you don't need the BMS part. It's just a "spacer" at that point. The ECS line plugs in at the car and then right to the slave. I was able to bend the holding bracket a smidge and it's holding the line now. Doesn't seem to be an issue with length at all on my X-drive E60. Kind of like the restrictor was an afterthought add on. My IS300 manual was the same way.

If you crack the hydraulic system on the clutch you will probably need a power bleeder to then bleed the clutch. I had seen video's of people doing it without one but I tried 5 or 6 times and had no luck. After the power bleeder got it on the first try.

This is the one I got
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../018166ecs01a/

Also did the bronze pivot and pilot bearing. On the pilot bearing definitely do the grease and punch method. A regular pilot bearing puller destroyed the **** outta the old one and it was a PITA to get out.
Really great, thank you.

I did watch those videos yesterday. doesn't seem like too much of a deal to bleed this system with a power bleeder.

Thank you.

I also saw the pivot bearing videos and read the threads regarding nightmares. I wont touch that if it's still smooth rolling.
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BeatupVR4 BeatupVR4 is offline
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Default 11-06-2020, 01:08 PM

I saw the same possible nightmares with the pivot pin but from digging in it appeared that the issues were always causes by the use of improper lubricant. One was anti seize and the other was white lithium grease. You need to use a high pressure chassis grease. This would have wiped out the stock plastic or steel version as well.

My plastic pin was only slightly worn on the tip when I pulled it out. I was actually very surprised at the lack of wear.
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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default 11-09-2020, 02:45 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
I saw the same possible nightmares with the pivot pin but from digging in it appeared that the issues were always causes by the use of improper lubricant. One was anti seize and the other was white lithium grease. You need to use a high pressure chassis grease. This would have wiped out the stock plastic or steel version as well.

My plastic pin was only slightly worn on the tip when I pulled it out. I was actually very surprised at the lack of wear.


Thank you for your contribution. i'll buy some of that.


What's your thought on getting a new Clutch Fork Lever?

The guy at ECS said, not required.

Here is my current shopping list, if you care to take a look and provide critique.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Cart/?add1...tent=link2cart

Last edited by Pinscher; 11-09-2020 at 03:05 PM..
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BeatupVR4 BeatupVR4 is offline
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Default 11-10-2020, 06:15 AM

First off I'm jealous of the brake rotors you picked out. I was a cheapy and got the Pagid OEM aluminum hat ones but that was it.

I probably would have reused my "fork" but the LUK 550i clutch kit came with a new one so I just used that. I don't see a throw out bearing on there and I would definitely recommend that. Also make sure you install it on the right step height. There is a low and a high one and I think you need the high one but double check that.

IMHO the rear main seal tool isn't needed. I just put two deck screws in mine and used pliers to pull it out. It comes out fairly easy. Even that and the OEM tool use screws.

Putting it in with the supplied plastic spreader is also super easy. NEWTIS is closed now but there is an installation depth you want to look out for.

For the slot where the lower engine cases meet the rear main instead of the loctite kit from BMW I used grey RTV and pushed it in and spread it around. Still super dry under there.
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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default 11-11-2020, 10:27 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
First off I'm jealous of the brake rotors you picked out. I was a cheapy and got the Pagid OEM aluminum hat ones but that was it.
I ended up here because I wanted to get a decent set of slotted rotors, but to get something that wasn't a bottom basic disk was quite expensive and helped to justify getting these 2 piece rotors. Sure they are drilled and that is... tacky, but they should still be a huge upgrade over OEM and do look better than plain discs, so here we are

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
I probably would have reused my "fork" but the LUK 550i clutch kit came with a new one so I just used that. I don't see a throw out bearing on there and I would definitely recommend that. Also make sure you install it on the right step height. There is a low and a high one and I think you need the high one but double check that.
I've since added the fork and bearing to the flywheel optional addons. thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
IMHO the rear main seal tool isn't needed. I just put two deck screws in mine and used pliers to pull it out. It comes out fairly easy. Even that and the OEM tool use screws.
I found one for 50 bucks and 40 bucks delivery on aliexpress.com, though after watching some videos, no way. i have a strong hook i can use to remove the seal. looks very easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
Putting it in with the supplied plastic spreader is also super easy. NEWTIS is closed now but there is an installation depth you want to look out for.
I'll take note of the factory install depth. Not sure what NEWTIS is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
For the slot where the lower engine cases meet the rear main instead of the loctite kit from BMW I used grey RTV and pushed it in and spread it around. Still super dry under there.
Interesting. I searched this after reading your comment and others have the same comment as you have. I'll try to find a video of exactly what you're talking about.

Are you using the Silicone sealant or the gasket maker?

This stuff? https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/p...-0383724p.html

Thanks for the help!

Last edited by Pinscher; 11-11-2020 at 10:37 AM..
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Pinscher Pinscher is offline
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Default 11-23-2020, 10:38 AM

So, I'm going 9" twin disc, rigid, organic full face X-clutch with Mfactory flywheel.

My big take way was drivability + clamp load and twin disc should get me there easily.

Edit: apparently it has an X-clutch flywheel, so no Mfactory wheel for me.

Last edited by Pinscher; 11-23-2020 at 11:53 AM..
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