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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default only getting 6 psi after flashing BEF - 07-06-2020, 08:58 PM

Please help me, I have an 07 335i running pure 600's + FBO. It was running great on stock flash + JB4 map 5, but I knew the setup wasnt optimized for the bigger turbos so yesterday I decided to flash the BEF. I first flashed the normal pump BEF since there is no pump specific hybrid turbos flash. I followed the directions in the hybrid turbos setup page here to a T; bit 6 is enabled and Jb4 is in 4/2 mode. I copied Terry's settings in the JB4 app from that thread. I have the newest jb4 firmware installed. No matter what I do, I can not get more than 6 psi on any JB4 map. I just got done reflashing with the Race-Hybrid BEF and it still only made 6 psi. I flashed back to "stage 0" in MHD and set the JB4 to 4/3 mode hoping it would return it to it's pre-flash performance, still only getting 6 psi.

To be clear, there is nothing physically wrong with the car, it made 15 psi literally 10 minutes before the flash, and immediately after is when the issue cropped up. I'm pretty upset now as the BEF essentially bricked my car's performance. I have taken datalogs but don't know how to post them. when I go full throttle, the WGDC goes to 50 (which I'm assuming is scaled and really means 100) and FF stays around 30. I've tried FF settings from 10 to 140, car behaves exactly the same. I can now hear WG rattle on decel and startup/idle that I did not hear before the BEF. the turbos only have 6k miles on them and were dead silent before with my JB4 menu 10,11 and 12 settings as follows: 10/5, 11/5, 12/2700.

I'm super upset and would really like to figure this out. If I wanted to go this slow I could have gotten a honda or something.. Car is running 91 octane pump (all I can get). Here are some logs.

Last edited by dougs951s; 07-06-2020 at 09:12 PM..
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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default 07-06-2020, 09:13 PM

Logs are here.


i dont know if this issue is related? I also had my initial MHD flash fail at 1%, I didn't use any quick recovery option or anything like that though, just retried the flash and it completed ok. flashing back to "stage 0" then reflashing a BEF didn't help. Should i pick the option "flash to stock" then attempt the BEF again? Seems this guy was saying his target was 0, my ecu is showing correct targets of ~15 psi, it's just not hitting the target.

HELP! I'M NOT GETTING ANY BOOST AFTER MHD - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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File Type: csv P32_M5_R2_200705_2056.csv (318.2 KB, 41 views)
File Type: csv P32_M5_R1_200705_2056.csv (205.2 KB, 44 views)

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THE BEAST THE BEAST is offline
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Default 07-06-2020, 11:05 PM

A decent log would really help
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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default 07-06-2020, 11:09 PM

there are two logs attached where I go WOT, not sure what you'd like to see that you can't see from there? WGDC is pegged, boost target is in normal range, and car just isn't hitting target. Made 15 psi no problem before flashing MHD. I'm a tuner, been building and tuning turbo cars for a decade (no, flashing a prebuilt tune isn't tuning); but I am new to the N54 platform. I can probably help you help me a whole lot if you explain to me what you'd like to see. I can clearly see the issue, I just don't understand the root cause.
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THE BEAST THE BEAST is offline
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Default 07-06-2020, 11:13 PM

If wgdc is pegged, I would say you developed a boost leak.
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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default 07-06-2020, 11:18 PM

flashing MHD didn't make my car develop a boost leak..it boosted fine on the way home...made 15 psi down the road to my house..pulled into driveway, flashed mhd, no boost. You're the 5th person to tell me its a leak..not trying to be crass, but come on man...
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THE BEAST THE BEAST is offline
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Default 07-06-2020, 11:28 PM

I get it, but if wgdc is pegged.......

I looked at the 2nd log because its shorter.
I dont see where its WOT.

Last edited by THE BEAST; 07-06-2020 at 11:55 PM..
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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default 07-06-2020, 11:56 PM

leak tested it to 15 psi..no leaks. Something is wrong and it isnt a hardware issue.
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dmckmc dmckmc is offline
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Default 07-07-2020, 05:16 AM

shorter logs with wide open throttle, pedal 100% are needed. thousands of rows in excel cannot be managed by most handheld devices, it does not even fully open up after a few minutes on my chrome book and scrolling is impossible. people trying to help will not even look at the log if they have to search through thousands of rows at idle.

for this forum the ask for best log evaluation is: traction control disabled, 3rd gear, 2,000 rpm to redline, wide open throttle/pedal to the floor (just short of the kickdown button).

the jb4 can be set to auto log at wide open throttle. this makes logs short and to the point.

i think you are on the right track in trying to revert to full stock and go from there one setting at a time. it's easy to overlook a simple setting, we've all done it and sworn on our girlfriends privates that we've double checked everything only to have a big duh moment.


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BeatupVR4 BeatupVR4 is offline
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Default 07-07-2020, 06:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougs951s
there are two logs attached where I go WOT, not sure what you'd like to see that you can't see from there? WGDC is pegged, boost target is in normal range, and car just isn't hitting target. Made 15 psi no problem before flashing MHD. I'm a tuner, been building and tuning turbo cars for a decade (no, flashing a prebuilt tune isn't tuning); but I am new to the N54 platform. I can probably help you help me a whole lot if you explain to me what you'd like to see. I can clearly see the issue, I just don't understand the root cause.
I was going to ask the same question. I've never even logged the car and was curious as to what makes a log "decent".

I also just experienced a similar issue with a OTS tuner for my Audi 1.8T. Got the ECU back and it was only making 6psi vs the 22 advertised. I trouble shot the car because I had just done a bunch of work to it, boost leak test, wastegate check with pump, cleaned MAF, replaced MAP sensor, etc. Hooked up a manual boost controller in place of the boost control solenoid and the car made 22 psi no problem and felt great. Replaced N75 valve. Still 6 psi. Contact the tuner about a possible issue with the tune with the above information written out and his response was boost leak or broken waste gate. Bro did you even read my E-mail? I've been modding turbo cars for 20 years and have a low 11 second Galant VR-4 and tried to tell him as much but I kept getting back blanket responses for noobs wearing flat brimmed hats that want their car to backfire on decel and shoot flames in parking lots.

In his defense I didn't have access to VCDS at the time which would have just answered all my questions and he probably gets 100's of stupid questions a week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmckmc
it's easy to overlook a simple setting, we've all done it and sworn on our girlfriends privates that we've double checked everything only to have a big duh moment.
So much truth.
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THE BEAST THE BEAST is offline
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Default 07-07-2020, 10:40 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougs951s
Please help me, I have an 07 335i running pure 600's + FBO. It was running great on stock flash + JB4 map 5, but I knew the setup wasnt optimized for the bigger turbos so yesterday I decided to flash the BEF. I first flashed the normal pump BEF since there is no pump specific hybrid turbos flash. I followed the directions in the hybrid turbos setup page here to a T; bit 6 is enabled and Jb4 is in 4/2 mode. I copied Terry's settings in the JB4 app from that thread. I have the newest jb4 firmware installed. No matter what I do, I can not get more than 6 psi on any JB4 map. I just got done reflashing with the Race-Hybrid BEF and it still only made 6 psi. I flashed back to "stage 0" in MHD and set the JB4 to 4/3 mode hoping it would return it to it's pre-flash performance, still only getting 6 psi.

To be clear, there is nothing physically wrong with the car, it made 15 psi literally 10 minutes before the flash, and immediately after is when the issue cropped up. I'm pretty upset now as the BEF essentially bricked my car's performance. I have taken datalogs but don't know how to post them. when I go full throttle, the WGDC goes to 50 (which I'm assuming is scaled and really means 100) and FF stays around 30. I've tried FF settings from 10 to 140, car behaves exactly the same. I can now hear WG rattle on decel and startup/idle that I did not hear before the BEF. the turbos only have 6k miles on them and were dead silent before with my JB4 menu 10,11 and 12 settings as follows: 10/5, 11/5, 12/2700.

I'm super upset and would really like to figure this out. If I wanted to go this slow I could have gotten a honda or something.. Car is running 91 octane pump (all I can get). Here are some logs.
You say bit 6 enabled, im guessing the disable FF / RPM gain. Neither log shows that enabled. 1 log shows dwp =60, another log shows dwp = 100.
Can you post a pic / screenshot of all your current settings ?
Edit:
1 log shows duty bias at 0 across the board
Another log shows duty bias at 50 across the board.
Neither is correct for hybrid turbos.
I would really like to help, you stated you followed all settings / directions to a "T" but I see multiple settings that are incorrect.
I would go over all settings and post a proper log if still having issues.
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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default 07-07-2020, 01:35 PM

i might have sent a mixed log since jb4 combines them. Some parts are have bit 6 off because I had flashed "stage 0" per my original post and tried to undo all changes to return the car to it's working state. I can assure you with bit 6 on and everything set per Terry's post, it still didnt work. I can appreciate you trying to help, but you are going over very simple things that I'm telling you I already checked. I dont know what else to tell you. I'm going to try to remove MHD entirely tonight, reflash, re-set up jb4, and then if it doesnt work I will post a log.
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Default 07-07-2020, 02:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougs951s
i might have sent a mixed log since jb4 combines them. Some parts are have bit 6 off because I had flashed "stage 0" per my original post and tried to undo all changes to return the car to it's working state. I can assure you with bit 6 on and everything set per Terry's post, it still didnt work. I can appreciate you trying to help, but you are going over very simple things that I'm telling you I already checked. I dont know what else to tell you. I'm going to try to remove MHD entirely tonight, reflash, re-set up jb4, and then if it doesnt work I will post a log.
No problem, good luck to you.
I understand all was good, then it wasnt.
Years ago, I drove my car home, all good. Showered, kicked it, went back out. Car was fine when parked, 2 hours later when I left again, I didnt make it 2 blocks. Car ran fine, but turbo whine and grinding sound. Turbo literally took a dump while parked for 2 hrs. I wasnt even under heavy boost when it started whining. I was doing about 20 mph through the neighborhood.
You said you tested for boost leaks. Have you checked vacuum lines ?
I know you dont like my answers or suggestions so I will step away now. Once again, good luck.
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Default 07-08-2020, 07:02 AM

As stated above- logs / settings do help.

If you just plan on using 91-93- the pump flash is fine, with out default FUD/DB/FB settings.

Personally, I’d set JB4 to map 0- re flash our PUMP flash- & double check user settings AFTER the flash.

Take car out & log map 1


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default 07-08-2020, 08:51 PM

Well; after 2 days, wasted money on a new battery I didn't need, and dozens of failed attemps; I finally managed to remove MHD and flash the stock map back to the car. I started right up, I havn't driven it yet to see if it's back to making normal boost on the JB4 like it was before I tried to flash it, but I would guess that it's fine.

I had a 40A power supply hooked up to the car along with the brand new battery, and I had the headlights and LPFP fuses pulled and it still kept failing at different percentages each time I tried to flash, so I am now assuming I somehow got a bad cable. It's a brand new cable and usb OTG adapter both from Bimmergeeks, but it's possible I suppose. I'm really leery on trying this again since it bricked my car and made it inoperable for 2 complete days, should I get a new cable and OTG and try to flash the BEF again? Do I need to adjust my JB4 settings again (remove the BEF specific settings) or will flashing the stock DME map and removing MHD restore the default settings to the JB4?

one more question, JB4 steering controls did not work while the DME didn't have a map loaded; (pretty sure I had it on map 0 when it initially failed and wiped my ecu 2 days ago, but I can't be sure.) once I was finally able to flash the stock map back, I opened the JB4 command menu and saw it was in map 6. Will MHD let you flash the car when JB4 isn't in map 0? if so, what are the effects of doing so? Sorry, I have a lot to learn about this platform and the JB4.

Last edited by dougs951s; 07-08-2020 at 09:00 PM..
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Wink 07-09-2020, 06:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougs951s
Well; after 2 days, wasted money on a new battery I didn't need, and dozens of failed attemps; I finally managed to remove MHD and flash the stock map back to the car. I started right up, I havn't driven it yet to see if it's back to making normal boost on the JB4 like it was before I tried to flash it, but I would guess that it's fine.

I had a 40A power supply hooked up to the car along with the brand new battery, and I had the headlights and LPFP fuses pulled and it still kept failing at different percentages each time I tried to flash, so I am now assuming I somehow got a bad cable. It's a brand new cable and usb OTG adapter both from Bimmergeeks, but it's possible I suppose. I'm really leery on trying this again since it bricked my car and made it inoperable for 2 complete days, should I get a new cable and OTG and try to flash the BEF again? Do I need to adjust my JB4 settings again (remove the BEF specific settings) or will flashing the stock DME map and removing MHD restore the default settings to the JB4?

one more question, JB4 steering controls did not work while the DME didn't have a map loaded; (pretty sure I had it on map 0 when it initially failed and wiped my ecu 2 days ago, but I can't be sure.) once I was finally able to flash the stock map back, I opened the JB4 command menu and saw it was in map 6. Will MHD let you flash the car when JB4 isn't in map 0? if so, what are the effects of doing so? Sorry, I have a lot to learn about this platform and the JB4.
JB4 needs to be set to 0 before flashing.

What firmware is on the car? Not what flash, what firmware is on the JB4?

Countless people have used our flash with success, just needs proper setup initially.

It sounds like now you just have JB4 on the car?


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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LawrenceBalls189 LawrenceBalls189 is offline
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Default 07-09-2020, 04:19 PM

MHD currently flips your jb4 into map zero when you connect using the app. I have no issues using my jb4 and mhd together
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dougs951s dougs951s is offline
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Default 07-09-2020, 10:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LawrenceBalls189
MHD currently flips your jb4 into map zero when you connect using the app. I have no issues using my jb4 and mhd together
Great info, thanks!
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Default 07-09-2020, 10:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave @ BMS/Fuel-It!
JB4 needs to be set to 0 before flashing.

What firmware is on the car? Not what flash, what firmware is on the JB4?

Countless people have used our flash with success, just needs proper setup initially.

It sounds like now you just have JB4 on the car?

Newest ISO 5 firmware updated 3 days ago off the JB4 app.

yes, I am running the newest stock I8AOS flash from BMW + JB4 now. MHD is not installed. Bimmergeeks is sending me a new cable and OTG; when it gets here I'll try flashing the pump BEF again.
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Default 07-10-2020, 06:53 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougs951s
Newest ISO 5 firmware updated 3 days ago off the JB4 app.

yes, I am running the newest stock I8AOS flash from BMW + JB4 now. MHD is not installed. Bimmergeeks is sending me a new cable and OTG; when it gets here I'll try flashing the pump BEF again.
Ok, perfect.

Letís get the new cable in, try again, itíll be easy


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-11-2020, 02:19 PM

So, flashing newest stock map restored my boost, but not I am getting map 4 kickdowns and check engines lights, and a bunch of codes I've never had before. the ones that are concerning and I'm sure are causing the CEL are the o2 codes, 2CA7 and 2CAB. I also sometimes see 29F4 and 29F5 which are shadow codes for ******* DP's (which I do have). Never had those codes before and have had ******* ********* for about 40k miles. I am also getting 2F6C for exhaust fumeflap signal, but the car hasn't had stock mufflers on it for 50k miles and I've never gotten that code.

I don't know why all these codes are showing up, the only thing that has changed is reflashing the stock map and installing a new battery (which was coded). I'm afraid to take a full throttle log because the car is detecting a lean condition. I have 6 brand new index 12 injectors installed about 6k miles ago. Car runs and idles great..Really need help.
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Default 07-11-2020, 02:41 PM

I've attached my most recent datalog and screenshots on my current JB4 settings + 2 recent codes pulls. I don't always get the CEL light even when the codes show via JB4 scanning. JB4 is set to auto clear (i think, set menu 1 to 3, then back to menu 0 then close the menus). Could this have something to do with fuel trims being reset from either the new flash or new battery? if so, why are they not relearning and how can I fix this?
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Default 07-12-2020, 05:01 AM

So a stock oem file is on the car?

Set your wheel controls to 4/3, JB4 to 0 & flash the appropriate backend flash for your mods and fueling


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-12-2020, 10:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave @ BMS/Fuel-It!
So a stock oem file is on the car?

Set your wheel controls to 4/3, JB4 to 0 & flash the appropriate backend flash for your mods and fueling
But I am getting codes now and map 4 kickdowns, I wasbt getting any of this before. sonething isnt right with the car now?
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Default 07-12-2020, 01:41 PM

tried to flash BEf..car bricked again
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