E Series N54 JB4 - Page 63 - N54Tech.com

dvcoastal · 02-28-2011, 11:43 AM

Just installed my JB4 and love it. Terry and the guys at BMS are the best.

MikeF · 02-28-2011, 12:16 PM

Installed the JB4 with DCI Saturday .. (had the JB+ and DCI previously).

Will take some time to understand the differences in map 2 and map 5 ... I will send logs out to make sure all looks ok ...

Appears that both maps make a good amount of power .. pulls real strong in 2nd and 3rd ... however - still a decent amount of lag off the line (when it kicks in - hold on).

Its like - punch it out ... lag ... kicks in and then tires spins a bit and off we go ...

I'd like to see a tire shredding map where i can light them up upon punch (no more BS Power brake) or maybe I am doing something wrong.

Also going to need to learn more about Boost on fuel, timing on fuel and the like .. where can i find more bout those?

One last thing - where can I get the software for the datacable so I can get logs and also where do I find the most current hex files to keep the unit up to date?

Thanks

-Mike-

Red135 · 02-28-2011, 12:43 PM

On the first post of this thread.

DeadEye · 02-28-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johno

Has anybody here who has the JB4 (set in map zero) tried to adjust condition based service using the Barvarian Technic software?

My BT software worked before the JB4 but it will not reset CBS now. I can not communicate with the modules. Will somebody pelase see if you can adjust something harmless your cabin filter status? Or change your spark plugs by 1 percent and see if it will adjust the values?

I've been able to communicate with the modules, I had to clear some codes after fitting the Performance Steering Wheel.

randomquickness · 02-28-2011, 02:43 PM

where do I find this option 1/3?

"3) If you have an offroad race car with ********* the ***** is no longer needed. Remove it and put its wiring back to stock. If you lost the jumper wires you can relocate 3 wires from unused locations within your PnP harness. Just check for spots that do not have a factory wire connected and salvage the jumper. Turn autoclear on in the JB4 by selecting option 1/3."

Terry @ BMS · 02-28-2011, 03:12 PM

Right in the steering wheel controls.

CasperSYTFU · 02-28-2011, 08:26 PM

Just had time to load new firmware. gonna try and get some map5 logs with this nice break in weather.

T i also e-mailed you about a code. Cheers!

mikeyt13 · 03-01-2011, 05:55 AM

Does the jb4 erase the speed limiter?

pinto · 03-01-2011, 06:01 AM

nop, you still need the BMS speed limiter.

Bimmer Barney · 03-01-2011, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinto

nop, you still need the BMS speed limiter.

Really? Did not realize that, but also haven't tested it

Terry - any input on the launch control feature in the future firmware releases? -OR- any tips on how to launch this thing for effectively?

Terry @ BMS · 03-01-2011, 12:21 PM

Launch control is for the opposite of what you want. It's for launching harder on slicks. You need to use the gear dependent boost limiter. Set 1st gear to 7 to run stock boost in 1st.

JHOOPS2 · 03-01-2011, 12:45 PM

Ha ha! I was just starting to mess with boost redux. I set first gear to 10 to see what difference it made...and that is when my HPFP died the rest of the way. I guess I will see how it does when I get it back in the next day or two.

Bimmer Barney · 03-01-2011, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS

Launch control is for the opposite of what you want. It's for launching harder on slicks. You need to use the gear dependent boost limiter. Set 1st gear to 7 to run stock boost in 1st.

Interesting. A buddy of mine had an e46 M3 with LC and it actually improved launching on his street tires. I guess depending on the settings of the LC, it would ideally perform for your specific setup.

In any case, I'll try the 7psi 1st gear and see if that helps. Do you recommend holding any revs pre-launch, and do you recommend DTC on or off?

I know this is probably a newb question, but thanks in advance.

Thanks!

Terry @ BMS · 03-01-2011, 12:59 PM

For the DTC stuff and launch method it really varies. Try different things to see what works best for you. If you're auto 2nd gear launches are golden.

SlicktopTTZ · 03-01-2011, 04:00 PM

I can launch very well on my AD08s at around 70°F ambient if I have a clean road and hold about 2000PRM at the line and then very quickly build up throttle as I lock the clutch up. This is with 11psi max boost in 1st. You have to watch the 1-2 shift though, if you drop it too hard it will spin sometimes and then you have to let off, wait for traction and go again, or try to hold it through (which doesn't get you anywhere with the stock diff). A perfect 1-2shift that hooks up feels AMAZING though, or punching it from a roll in 2nd at about 3500RPM and feeling that torque instantly build up.

Can't wait to run APEX wheels/Vorshlag camber plates with 255F 275R setup. =)

Bimmer Barney · 03-01-2011, 04:54 PM

Terry - Also a reminder that I vote for the feature to "program in" the exhaust flap to sstay open at all times. While it's easy to manually make this happen, it does throw a code. Would be "cleaner" to have it ecu controlled and have no code.

kang159 · 03-02-2011, 01:17 AM

this might just be an annoyance, but would it be a problem to add a 'connect' hotkey? i can't stand the mousepad..lol

skinrock · 03-02-2011, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS

Launch control is for the opposite of what you want. It's for launching harder on slicks. You need to use the gear dependent boost limiter. Set 1st gear to 7 to run stock boost in 1st.

What is the advantage of keeping it that low in 1st gear? I'm actually in the same boat as MikeF from a few posts back - even though I'm putting down a really good 0-60, it's still laggy from the start.

moodi · 03-02-2011, 04:05 AM

guys ,which is better during acceleration (take off) (0-120) DTC or without DTC?

elsabor67 · 03-02-2011, 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

Terry - Also a reminder that I vote for the feature to "program in" the exhaust flap to sstay open at all times. While it's easy to manually make this happen, it does throw a code. Would be "cleaner" to have it ecu controlled and have no code.

Wierd. I've done mine manually and have never had a code pop up. Even went to service like that. Do you have the number of the code it threw??

Bimmer Barney · 03-02-2011, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elsabor67

Wierd. I've done mine manually and have never had a code pop up. Even went to service like that. Do you have the number of the code it threw??

2F6C

I unplugged it in the trunk panel, I'm guessing you did a golf tee or something? I think having it programmed in as an option would give a more "professional" solution. To me, doing a golf tee or unplugging something is a mod for a Honda, not a Bimmer. I have mine unplugged because it sounds better, but I hate knowing I have a code for it and something unplugged. Is that OCD enough for you?

temperamental · 03-02-2011, 08:33 AM

Same here. Unplugged and have to live with that code.

JHOOPS2 · 03-02-2011, 08:48 AM

Just use a zip tie.

Bimmer Barney · 03-02-2011, 09:23 AM

You're missing my point...I am aware of the options, but in my opinion using a zip tie, or a golf tee, or unplugging a connection, is a jerry-rigged solution. My OP to Terry was asking him to program this option into the JB4 firmware.

JHOOPS2 · 03-02-2011, 09:31 AM

Oh, I agree about it being nice to be included with a future JB update. I just don't see the issue with using a zip tie for the time being. Another option would be to install a small valve in line between the line and the actuator. For me the zip tie works. No one can see it, and it can be removed in about 2 seconds.