JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion
Traf Traf is offline
Junior Member
Posts: 226
Join Date: May 2015
Car: 2009 135i Coupe
Default 10-24-2015, 12:31 PM

Just did it, thanks to your DIY. No real difficulties, the rear bolt of the hpfp you can touch with your fingers so izy pizy actually i think removing my stock air box was harder :D.
But like an idiot and i don't even know why i wanted to pull the DVs one by one and i broke the nipple of one of them trying to remove the little hose lol. Anyway i fixed it with some epoxy seems to be holding fine.
So beware guys, it breaks very very easily.

f*** v-bands clamp

Last edited by Traf; 10-24-2015 at 12:37 PM..
Reply With Quote
DanL DanL is offline
Junior Member
Posts: 76
Join Date: Oct 2010
Car: 2010 535i M Sport
Default 10-25-2015, 10:19 AM

I just did my HPFP as well on my 535i. It took almost exactly two hours and I didn't run into any real problems other than the Harbor Freight long reach 5mm hex bit socket I had was too long to remove the rear bolt. I had to drive the bit out of the socket with a punch, cut off an inch with a Dremel, and pound it back into the socket. After that it was pretty simple and you can see the bolt head if you look down through one of the manifold openings. It also took a while to unscrew the lower front bolt since you can only get to it with a hex key, at least on the 535i. It may be easier on the 135i/535i.

I do have one suggestion I didn't see in the DIY guide. Put a rag in the front and rear charge pipe connector tubes and everywhere you'll be removing bolts (underneath the HPFP, throttle body, etc.) That way there's zero chance of something falling into one of the tubes and if a bolt falls while you're removing or installing it, it will fall onto a rag and not into the depths of the engine bay.

2010 535i M Sport - Platinum Gray/Dakota Black/Anthracite Bamboo
Premium, Value, Cold Weather, Sport Auto, Navigation, Satellite, Logic 7, Comfort Access, Park Distance, Fold Down Rear Seats, Heated Rear Seats, Rear Side Airbags, JB4 G5 ISO, BMS DCIs, ER Charge Pipe, Proform Clear Bra, LUX H8 160 LED angel eyes
Reply With Quote
s0urce s0urce is offline
Junior Member
Posts: 32
Join Date: Mar 2013
Car: 08' 335i 6MT JB4
Default 02-18-2016, 11:40 PM

I'm replacing my hpfp this weekend. Is there anything special I need to do with the JB4 after the install? Does the FOL value need to be tweaked manually?
Reply With Quote
Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It!'s Avatar
Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! is offline
Posts: 21,116
Join Date: Oct 2012
Car: 135i
Default 02-19-2016, 10:31 AM

No...leave everything with the JB4 as is and do a couple logs to verify all is good.

Click on our banner to visit our website!
Video of our Stage 2 LPFP upgrade installation.

BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways.
Reply With Quote
ba114's Avatar
ba114 ba114 is offline
Junior Member
Posts: 234
Join Date: Jul 2014
Car: 135i 6MT
Default 04-26-2016, 07:33 PM

used this on Monday. All went perfectly well. Had to get creative with an allen key and socket extension to get the rear bolt out of the hpfp but otherwise was pretty much trouble free.

Took about 1hr 20mins from start to finish
Reply With Quote
raichean raichean is offline
New Member
Posts: 11
Join Date: Jun 2017
Car: BMW 435i 6MT
Default 02-28-2019, 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by ONDEMAND
Just wanted to say thanks to Steve for putting this DIY together. Changed the pump on saturday and the car starts instantly now!

Also a thank you to fryj00 who is also an n55 and pm'd me with a few tips for the n55 motor as the DIY is for N54.

FYI: the dealer confirmed the HPFP ending in 6170 was the most current revision and I purchased from ECS.


The "evil black box" on an n55 is different than N54 shown in the DIY. There is a box connected to the Intake manifold that does not need to be removed. There is however a group of wires that pass through a black plastic "race way" that needs to be moved out of the way to get proper access to the HPFP bolts. This race way is just a housing about 3 x 4 inches that multiple wires pass through. My guess is it simply keeps the wire in place. The plastic race way can simply be pulled towards the driver side wheel and slides off of two metal tabs.

Once this is done remove the oil sensor from the engine block to further access to the rear HPFP bolt.

On N55 you will need to unbolt the intake manifold but do not remove form the engine bay. Once you remove the 1 bolt and several nuts pull the intake up off the studs and swing the front portion up and towards the driver side of the vehicle. Then use a bungee cord from the underside of the hood to keep the intake mani out of the way. This keeps you form having to finagle the manifold out form all the various electrical lines above and behind the manifold.

You will notice as you loosen the fuel line nuts that they are not that tight. As these are compression fittings they do not require much force to seat properly which seems crazy given the fuel in them is under such pressure. I read a spec of 30nm but in the end I simply went hand tight | snug, and then a half turn on each of them.

Same for manifold bolts nuts and the throttle body. These are plastic pieces so do not over tighten.

When you are finished cycle the ignition several times to prime the pump and then start the engine up. You will likely get several codes off the batt and given the battery disconnected overnight, and all the various connectors being unplugged this is to be expected. I cleared the codes and cycled the engine. Still a code for throttle angle so cycled it again and no codes, car runs (and starts) like a champ now.

Good luck to anyone doing this and if you have any questions I'll be glad to help as others did for me.
I shot you off a PM, and would love to pick your brain as I have a N55 HPFP swap out coming up in 3-4 weeks.

Check out my BMW DIY Channel on YouTube!
F32, F80, E39, E46, E53, and E83 projects from Active Autowerke, AvinUSA, CTS Turbo, Karbonius Composites and more!
** YouTube BMW DIY Guy **
** Facebook BMW DIY Guy **
Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com
Copyright 2007 - 2022, JB4tech.com