HPFP removal DIY - JB4tech.com

Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! · **HPFP removal DIY -** 12-17-2013, 04:50 AM

Let me know if you see any mistakes or you have any suggestions, but here is the DIY to change out the HPFP.

Ocean · 12-17-2013, 06:10 AM

Hey Steve,

Just because you spell out DISCONNECT THE BATTERY in large red caps and bold lettering, it does not mean that someone like me would actually remember to follow those suggestions.
Maybe I love getting spritzed in the face with raw gasoline. Maybe I am trying to learn how the car operates even when the key is out of the ignition. Maybe I just want to exercise my independence.

To others, I would say disconnecting the battery is a pretty good idea!

Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! · 12-17-2013, 05:35 PM

musc · 12-17-2013, 11:28 PM

Excellent write up. Are you replacing it with a stock one or are there any suitable aftermarket pumps or modifications to the stock pumps that can help with E85? I haven't seen any issues with my high fuel pressures at E63 and Walbro inline keeping the LPFP in check but a friend mine FBO with meth is running into HPFP drops with the same E63 and Walbro. Could just be a weaker HPFP than mine (07 vs 11')

Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! · 12-18-2013, 01:10 AM

Hahaha...no...I have had that fuel pump out numerous times for various tests...I actually have 3 different HPFPs that I've used for testing. I can literally swap one out in about 45 minutes now.

I haven't found anything significant enough to say..."yeah, such and such solves the issue".

There could be a variety of reasons your systems perform differently. Tune, hardware, fuel mix, power levels...yada, yada, yada...

Bullitt1841 · 12-25-2013, 12:19 AM

Hey, Steve...I thought you said DIY's weren't your forte? I say you should ask for a part time gig at BMS to do their writeups. Great job!

xx8055NIACxx · 01-19-2015, 11:24 PM

It looks like i might be doing this too guys if bmw doesnt want to fix it.

Genuine1x · 04-08-2015, 02:19 PM

Are the steps basically the same for N55's?

Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! · 04-09-2015, 05:14 PM

Pretty close, as long as it is pre- 03/12 production.

Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! · 04-09-2015, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullitt1841

Hey, Steve...I thought you said DIY's weren't your forte? I say you should ask for a part time gig at BMS to do their writeups. Great job!

Apparently you had some insight none of the rest of us did...

Levan-i · 04-11-2015, 12:20 PM

perfect, thanks!

I think it would be good idea to add the part number of latest HPFP,
Also i think it would be good idea you would be selling upgraded HPFPs, that doesnot fail like stocks

P.S. blank page at the end

Bullitt1841 · 04-11-2015, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It!

Apparently you had some insight none of the rest of us did...

siado · 04-18-2015, 07:43 PM

Steve, I'm going to have to ask your background...I haven't heard the term "tweaker" in long time.

Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! · 04-21-2015, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by siado

Steve, I'm going to have to ask your background...I haven't heard the term "tweaker" in long time.

It's a very technical term, there's not many are qualified to use it.

Cloud9Blue · 05-14-2015, 11:37 PM

Thanks for the guide. Just replaced the pump this evening with the help of this pdf. Glad I followed the instruction here and didn't waste time taking the intake manifold out, like the few other guides suggest.

jwdominick · 05-15-2015, 06:29 AM

Looks great, I find remembering to take pictures at critical intervals is hard to stay on top of.

Iloveboost · 11:11 AM

Oh, this is super helpful, and (unfortunately) relevant to my needs. Who has the best price on a new HPFP?

Edit: What's the current PN for the HPFP, and is there a rebuild kit?

fryj00 · 06-08-2015, 02:01 PM

Changed mine out yesterday. Thanks, Steve.

AWSAWS · 06-09-2015, 04:45 AM

I'm an absolute novice and I feel I could probably do this.

Great info!

ONDEMAND · 06-10-2015, 07:03 AM

Steve!

Thank you for putting this together. New HPFP in route and I will be using this DIY to install soon.

fryj00 · 06-10-2015, 07:16 AM

FYI, I installed the hpfp in the link below. I am at ~75% E85 and climbing. I'm adding 1 gal at a time and watching fuel trims over the last couple of days. No excessive trims at high load yet. Also running Fuel-It stage 2 lpfp and Cobb ATR tune with adjusted scalar and AFR's. I hope to hit 100% with this pump but we'll see over the next few days.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...uel/ES2568224/

ONDEMAND · **N55 HPFP -** 07-06-2015, 05:49 AM

Just wanted to say thanks to Steve for putting this DIY together. Changed the pump on saturday and the car starts instantly now!

Also a thank you to fryj00 who is also an n55 and pm'd me with a few tips for the n55 motor as the DIY is for N54.

FYI: the dealer confirmed the HPFP ending in 6170 was the most current revision and I purchased from ECS.

SO IF YOU ARE AN N55 :

The "evil black box" on an n55 is different than N54 shown in the DIY. There is a box connected to the Intake manifold that does not need to be removed. There is however a group of wires that pass through a black plastic "race way" that needs to be moved out of the way to get proper access to the HPFP bolts. This race way is just a housing about 3 x 4 inches that multiple wires pass through. My guess is it simply keeps the wire in place. The plastic race way can simply be pulled towards the driver side wheel and slides off of two metal tabs.

Once this is done remove the oil sensor from the engine block to further access to the rear HPFP bolt.

On N55 you will need to unbolt the intake manifold but do not remove form the engine bay. Once you remove the 1 bolt and several nuts pull the intake up off the studs and swing the front portion up and towards the driver side of the vehicle. Then use a bungee cord from the underside of the hood to keep the intake mani out of the way. This keeps you form having to finagle the manifold out form all the various electrical lines above and behind the manifold.

You will notice as you loosen the fuel line nuts that they are not that tight. As these are compression fittings they do not require much force to seat properly which seems crazy given the fuel in them is under such pressure. I read a spec of 30nm but in the end I simply went hand tight | snug, and then a half turn on each of them.

Same for manifold bolts nuts and the throttle body. These are plastic pieces so do not over tighten.

When you are finished cycle the ignition several times to prime the pump and then start the engine up. You will likely get several codes off the batt and given the battery disconnected overnight, and all the various connectors being unplugged this is to be expected. I cleared the codes and cycled the engine. Still a code for throttle angle so cycled it again and no codes, car runs (and starts) like a champ now.

Good luck to anyone doing this and if you have any questions I'll be glad to help as others did for me.

ONDEMAND · 04:37 AM

double post

iminhell1 · 07-26-2015, 08:15 PM

Page 16, 'pull this clip up to remove'

Is that because it's easier to pull than push down?
Because far as I know that clip should be able to release by being pushed also. And actually that is the intended design, that way it's unlikely the clip will get lost or fall out.

Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! · 09-19-2015, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Page 16, 'pull this clip up to remove'

Is that because it's easier to pull than push down?
Because far as I know that clip should be able to release by being pushed also. And actually that is the intended design, that way it's unlikely the clip will get lost or fall out.

Good point...actually didn't know that at the time of the DIY but later learned that was the case.