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Default e82 - 135i N54 - 2A82 Intake Vanos Code & 3100 boost deactivation - 02-15-2022, 05:37 PM

Hi all

After a little bit of help or to see if anyone has run into the same problem. I have a 59 plate N54 135i with FBOs and MHD stage 2+ flashed - c.113k miles.

I am currently getting the 2A82 VANOS intake code along with the 3100 boost cut.

I've changed the intake VANOS solenoid (brand new from BMW), cleaned out the VANOS check valves, checked the oil filer cap to ensure the cage is there (seems fine but have ordered a brand new one to be on the safe side but assume I would be getting intake and exhaust side codes if this was the case?) and done an oil change with a genuine filter.

In addition I've tried to reset VANOS adaptations but still with no luck! I've also confirmed I'm getting the correct voltage on the power and DME side of the solenoid plug.

Whilst I was doing the oil filter housing gaskets the other day, I had a look down on the valves and they're are pretty carbon'd up - might this be causing the issue? (Would have thought unlikely).

This leads me to think that it must be the intake cam ledges which will be a real pain! I'm happy to DIY it but more I don't really want to pay the £500 a piece or whatever the clamshells are now from BMW. I have found a second hand set on Ebay but its very hard to tell if they too will already be damaged to be essentially useless.

Would appreciate it of anyone has any bright ideas?

I'm leaning on it being the cam ledges as it only seems to do it when the oil is v hot - 105 degrees c plus - so often on a long drive it won't do it but then the moment I start driving around town it comes up. Idle seems a little lumpy but not hugely so.

The one thing I haven't tried is re-flashing the car to stock and seeing if the issue persists - but again think this is unlikely.

Apart from the above - I'm pretty stuck for ideas!

I am going to be posting on a couple of forums to try and reach the largest audience but will be sure to update all threads with any revelations/ good advice given!

Many thanks in advance


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E92 M3 2010 (DCT)

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ruskiracer ruskiracer is offline
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Default 02-15-2022, 07:19 PM

Either a whole new head or cam ledges


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Default 02-15-2022, 07:36 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruskiracer
Either a whole new head or cam ledges
Thanks - what makes you say a whole new head?


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Default 02-15-2022, 07:39 PM

You can find good low mile n54 heads with the cam trays for around 400 all day long as opposed to paying 500 euros for just one tray


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Default 02-15-2022, 07:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruskiracer
You can find good low mile n54 heads with the cam trays for around 400 all day long as opposed to paying 500 euros for just one tray
I'm in the UK and there doesn't seem to be too many about.

These are the only two decent ones I can find at the moment:

Intake - BMW 1 Bearing Ledge Intake 11127550913 Camshaft 11317584804 N54 | eBay

Exhaust - BMW 1 Bearing Ledge Exhaust 11127550913 Camshaft 11317584804 N54 | eBay

Messaged the seller who says there isn't much of a groove cut already in them but hard to tell without feeling/ seeing them - plus they don't know the millage of the car they came out of.

On that point - does 113k sound like low millage for these to fail? I've not had the car too long but looking at its history it seems to have had decent enough oil change intervals.


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ruskiracer ruskiracer is offline
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Default 02-15-2022, 08:05 PM

113k miles is pretty low for them to fail. I had a customer who had 200k on his motor when his went out. Poor oiling is the number one reason they fail though. The maximum I go on oil change intervals is 5k miles


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Default 02-15-2022, 08:32 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruskiracer
113k miles is pretty low for them to fail. I had a customer who had 200k on his motor when his went out. Poor oiling is the number one reason they fail though. The maximum I go on oil change intervals is 5k miles
I guess what I should really do is pull the valve cover, cams and check the state of the trays to work out if they are bad before ordering parts.

I don't have a garage which is a bit of an issue so I do all the work on the road and don't really want to leave the car in pieces/ open to the elements.

But I can't really see what else it can be given I have pretty much changed all the other failure points.

Is it possible it is just the intake side that is worn which is why I'm only getting an intake code at the moment? and the exhaust side is still holding up? I don't know which way oil is fed through the head/ cams/ VANOS units on these cars.

And is there any way of measuring oil pressure in the area to see if its dropping when the code comes up?


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ruskiracer ruskiracer is offline
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Default 02-15-2022, 08:37 PM

If the intake cam already is having issues it would be smart to replace both trays . Bmw made a revision to the came ledge and introduced a Teflon seal sometimes in 2008. Oil is fed through the solenoids and pressurized through each respective solenoid. There's no oil pressure sensor on n54s so logging that is gonna be pretty difficult without a aftermarket sensor


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gordon513 gordon513 is offline
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Default 02-16-2022, 03:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruskiracer
If the intake cam already is having issues it would be smart to replace both trays . Bmw made a revision to the came ledge and introduced a Teflon seal sometimes in 2008. Oil is fed through the solenoids and pressurized through each respective solenoid. There's no oil pressure sensor on n54s so logging that is gonna be pretty difficult without a aftermarket sensor
Hmm okay - hard to check oil pressure then. What I was wondering is the oil isn't fed intake side first and then down to the exhaust - ie. each CAM/ VANOS unit is fed oil independently and so its possible that at the moment I only have low oil pressure on the intake side but this isn't having a knock on effect on the exhaust side as they are fed independently.

So they updated the metal rings to teflon in 2008? Then this is unlikely to be my issue as my car is a 201?


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ruskiracer ruskiracer is offline
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Default 02-16-2022, 07:37 AM

BMW Rectangring Camshaft Seal - Reinz 11317587757 | FCP Euro yeah these are the seals. Unusual you have that code still being its a 2010 I've never seen that issue with the newer updated motors. You said you replaced both vanos solenoids with no luck?


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Default 02-16-2022, 08:10 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruskiracer
BMW Rectangring Camshaft Seal - Reinz 11317587757 | FCP Euro yeah these are the seals. Unusual you have that code still being its a 2010 I've never seen that issue with the newer updated motors. You said you replaced both vanos solenoids with no luck?
So did they only use the metal rings for the initial 2-3 years? I read somewhere they didn't change them to the teflon ones until the 2012 but not sure how true that is.

I have changed the intake solenoid which gave me no luck - haven't changed the exhaust as that one doesn't seem to be throwing a code


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Default 02-16-2022, 08:52 AM

I'm pretty sure the 2-3 years of the metal rings is accurate. The definitely got changed by the time the e90 lci update came around. Pretty odd how changing the solenoid and oil filter cage had no positive affect for you


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ruskiracer ruskiracer is offline
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Default 02-16-2022, 10:17 AM

I'm pretty sure the 2-3 years of the metal rings is accurate. The definitely got changed by the time the e90 lci update came around. Pretty odd how changing the solenoid and oil filter cage had no positive affect for you


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gordon513 gordon513 is offline
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Default 02-16-2022, 03:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruskiracer
I'm pretty sure the 2-3 years of the metal rings is accurate. The definitely got changed by the time the e90 lci update came around. Pretty odd how changing the solenoid and oil filter cage had no positive affect for you
this is where I say they changed them in 2012. Description of this video that is a guide on how to change them - This causes VANOS codes! - E90 Cam Bearing Ledge Failure DIY - YouTube

Was doing a bit of research today but can't see to find a definitave answer. Although I did see one thread where a car with the updated rings had eaten through the leges.

Other question is whether my oil is too thin as as I mentioned - it only does it when the oil gets hot. I did an oil change last weekend using Castrol 5w-30 M - it was doing it prior to the oil change but no idea what oil was in it before


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TheMidnightNarwhal TheMidnightNarwhal is offline
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Default 04-19-2022, 02:28 PM

Hey OP I'm facing a very similar issue and was wondering if you had any progress or update yourself?

For context I have a 2011 BMW 335is with the "LCI" N54. I have a similar 2A82 code that sometimes come up, it's still hard for me to reproduce it 100% but it usually if I want to floor it quickly, or if I drive smoothly on the throttle. Also like you, pretty much when oil is at least warmed up a bit.

I also replaced my intake solenoid with a brand new BMW one, even swapped them, code still stays on intake. Just tried 2 used genuine ones and same exact thing. I also did the BMW troubleshoot of checking the oil cage. I also made sure my VANOS check valves were clean and they were.

What I find different from the other threads is most people say it's their exhaust side and also their engine will run bad. But mine runs perfect. I'm about to also open up my camshaft and ledge to see but was wondering if you had more progress yourself there.
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gordon513 gordon513 is offline
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Default 04-23-2022, 04:54 AM

As an update:

I found the time to replace the intake ledge and seals over the easter bank holiday weekend last week. All in all, a pretty easy job but relatively time consuming with the number of bolts/ things that need to come off and then go back on.

Annoyingly I broke a brittle coolant line whilst putting the car back together and so was only able to test drive last night.

So far no more VANOS codes!

Interestingly my car already had the new teflon seals but the ledges were still in a right old state (pics below). I don't know whether someone had already changed them without replacing the ledge or they were from factory. The build date on my car is 12/2009 which is supposedly the last month of the metal rings.

In the pics below I have highlighted the issue for anyone who doesn't know what it looks like. There should be no groove at all in theory. You can see very clearly how deep the groove is by looking at the left hand side of the highlighted blue circle.

A few tips for people attempting this:
  1. Buy a digital angle torque wrench - I did the cam tray bolts with a angle wheel which was a real pain with the lack of room to work with
  2. Replace the intake & exhaust cam tray - I stupidly only bought the intake side and regret this as the exhaust side was pretty messed up and so I'm sure it will go at some point (even with the new teflon rings)
  3. If you haven't already, replace the valve cover gasket and OFHG at the same time - saves you having to pull the cover again which is half the prep work
  4. For my fellow UK N54 owners - if you're looking for second hand cam trays, the N53 uses the same part number. These were cheaper on ebay (as for whatever reason, it seems not to really be an issue on the N53 cars)

Pics below:





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gordon513 gordon513 is offline
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Default 04-23-2022, 04:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal
Hey OP I'm facing a very similar issue and was wondering if you had any progress or update yourself?

For context I have a 2011 BMW 335is with the "LCI" N54. I have a similar 2A82 code that sometimes come up, it's still hard for me to reproduce it 100% but it usually if I want to floor it quickly, or if I drive smoothly on the throttle. Also like you, pretty much when oil is at least warmed up a bit.

I also replaced my intake solenoid with a brand new BMW one, even swapped them, code still stays on intake. Just tried 2 used genuine ones and same exact thing. I also did the BMW troubleshoot of checking the oil cage. I also made sure my VANOS check valves were clean and they were.

What I find different from the other threads is most people say it's their exhaust side and also their engine will run bad. But mine runs perfect. I'm about to also open up my camshaft and ledge to see but was wondering if you had more progress yourself there.
Hi there mate - see my update post above. Given you have checked all these other things it sounds like it will be the cam trays


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TheMidnightNarwhal TheMidnightNarwhal is offline
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Default 04-23-2022, 12:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon513
As an update:

I found the time to replace the intake ledge and seals over the easter bank holiday weekend last week. All in all, a pretty easy job but relatively time consuming with the number of bolts/ things that need to come off and then go back on.

Annoyingly I broke a brittle coolant line whilst putting the car back together and so was only able to test drive last night.

So far no more VANOS codes!

Interestingly my car already had the new teflon seals but the ledges were still in a right old state (pics below). I don't know whether someone had already changed them without replacing the ledge or they were from factory. The build date on my car is 12/2009 which is supposedly the last month of the metal rings.

In the pics below I have highlighted the issue for anyone who doesn't know what it looks like. There should be no groove at all in theory. You can see very clearly how deep the groove is by looking at the left hand side of the highlighted blue circle.

A few tips for people attempting this:
  1. Buy a digital angle torque wrench - I did the cam tray bolts with a angle wheel which was a real pain with the lack of room to work with
  2. Replace the intake & exhaust cam tray - I stupidly only bought the intake side and regret this as the exhaust side was pretty messed up and so I'm sure it will go at some point (even with the new teflon rings)
  3. If you haven't already, replace the valve cover gasket and OFHG at the same time - saves you having to pull the cover again which is half the prep work
  4. For my fellow UK N54 owners - if you're looking for second hand cam trays, the N53 uses the same part number. These were cheaper on ebay (as for whatever reason, it seems not to really be an issue on the N53 cars)

Pics below:
Thanks so much for the update. You had teflon rings which would be interesting. I heard a rumor somewhere teflon rings still wear and cause the issue albeit not as often so considering I have a 2011 335is it would make sense. That said didn't expect to have to swap exhaust to since I thought at first I'd have metal rings... and putting teflon would avoid further wear on the exhaust. That sucks. All the used ones all have the groove already and these new trays are 500$ each. I guess I will see the state of the exhaust tray when I do it and take a decision then.


Did you DIY the job? I'm about to do it, I'm a good mechanic, but the only thing I'm slightly stressed about is doing it without the special tools regarding the valve press down and cam alignement tray, those tools are 500$. Here's a picture of what I mean: https://i.imgur.com/Z8qA9mp.png

I will of course be using the timing lock tools. I am familiar with the job watched a lot of DIY videos and my understanding if you go slow and steady on tightening everything should be good?

Last edited by TheMidnightNarwhal; 04-23-2022 at 12:49 PM..
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gordon513 gordon513 is offline
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Default 04-24-2022, 01:46 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal
Thanks so much for the update. You had teflon rings which would be interesting. I heard a rumor somewhere teflon rings still wear and cause the issue albeit not as often so considering I have a 2011 335is it would make sense. That said didn't expect to have to swap exhaust to since I thought at first I'd have metal rings... and putting teflon would avoid further wear on the exhaust. That sucks. All the used ones all have the groove already and these new trays are 500$ each. I guess I will see the state of the exhaust tray when I do it and take a decision then.


Did you DIY the job? I'm about to do it, I'm a good mechanic, but the only thing I'm slightly stressed about is doing it without the special tools regarding the valve press down and cam alignement tray, those tools are 500$. Here's a picture of what I mean: https://i.imgur.com/Z8qA9mp.png

I will of course be using the timing lock tools. I am familiar with the job watched a lot of DIY videos and my understanding if you go slow and steady on tightening everything should be good?
No worries - always think its good to update these threads with progress, if any.

Yeah I think the teflon rings can and do wear them out, just not as much. We never got the 335is here in the UK but I have heard of a fair few people in the US with the issue and those cars only had the teflon rings.

I mean I didn't change the exhaust cam tray so you don't have to - I just know with mine it was pretty worn and so I would have rather done it at the time to save myself doing the job again. Yours might be alright so you could risk it.

Yeah I did DIY it - I'm fairly confident in terms of home mechanics and have worked on cars for years but regardless of skill this is quite an easy job, especially if you follow a guide. IMO, you don't need to worry about that alignment tool/ valve tool - the trays have dowels to keep them aligned and once you get them tightened down, you can feel with a finger nail if they are misaligned. Just tighten them down evenly and make sure none of the rollers fall off the top of the cams. Only certain valves are up at top dead centre so you just need to tighten those bolts down first to get it aligned.

There are a couple of good guides in Youtube linked below. The 50sKid one is very good (and the most complete) although just a couple of things I would/ should do differently. When you are taking the VANOS wheels off and undoing the tray bolts, make sure you have the cam locking tool on (he doesn't), which means you're putting a lot of pressure on the timing chain. And when you are tightening down the cam trays bolts, I would also put the cam locking tool back on. The guide from Vehicular DIY is more slightly more correct but less complete.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fME7_EcsEd8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8tUIiiza1A


Very happy to talk you through any other specifics if you have questions.

Cheers


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TheMidnightNarwhal TheMidnightNarwhal is offline
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Default 04-24-2022, 11:06 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon513
No worries - always think its good to update these threads with progress, if any.

Yeah I think the teflon rings can and do wear them out, just not as much. We never got the 335is here in the UK but I have heard of a fair few people in the US with the issue and those cars only had the teflon rings.

I mean I didn't change the exhaust cam tray so you don't have to - I just know with mine it was pretty worn and so I would have rather done it at the time to save myself doing the job again. Yours might be alright so you could risk it.

Yeah I did DIY it - I'm fairly confident in terms of home mechanics and have worked on cars for years but regardless of skill this is quite an easy job, especially if you follow a guide. IMO, you don't need to worry about that alignment tool/ valve tool - the trays have dowels to keep them aligned and once you get them tightened down, you can feel with a finger nail if they are misaligned. Just tighten them down evenly and make sure none of the rollers fall off the top of the cams. Only certain valves are up at top dead centre so you just need to tighten those bolts down first to get it aligned.

There are a couple of good guides in Youtube linked below. The 50sKid one is very good (and the most complete) although just a couple of things I would/ should do differently. When you are taking the VANOS wheels off and undoing the tray bolts, make sure you have the cam locking tool on (he doesn't), which means you're putting a lot of pressure on the timing chain. And when you are tightening down the cam trays bolts, I would also put the cam locking tool back on. The guide from Vehicular DIY is more slightly more correct but less complete.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fME7_EcsEd8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8tUIiiza1A


Very happy to talk you through any other specifics if you have questions.

Cheers
Perfect thanks again for all the info. I shall report back here with my findings as well or if I encounter issues/questions! I appreciate it.

I agree noticed 50s kid video he didn't use the cam lock tool when he should have. I have access to ISTA so I also have the official BMW instructions to cross reference.
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Default 04-24-2022, 05:11 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal
Perfect thanks again for all the info. I shall report back here with my findings as well or if I encounter issues/questions! I appreciate it.

I agree noticed 50s kid video he didn't use the cam lock tool when he should have. I have access to ISTA so I also have the official BMW instructions to cross reference.
Perfect - let us know how you get on


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TheMidnightNarwhal TheMidnightNarwhal is offline
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Default 05-15-2022, 01:18 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon513
Perfect - let us know how you get on
Alright I've got news! Just took out the intake side today and lo and behold my intake side ledges have a extremely significant groove that catches my fingernail quite deeply. This has got to be it, I'm 99% this is my issue. Here's a picture of one of the clamshells halves.



Interestingly my intake cam also had the new "teflon" seals as well but seeing the wear and my car being only ~ 160k KM I can't believe it. Sucks I don't know much of the history of this car as I just got it last summer.



Lastly, I was about to remove my exhaust side to check but knowing that my car has teflon seals I almost want to leave it alone. I loosened the first 3 bolts as I thought of this lol. Tbh it's somewhat easy for me to remove the valve cover so it's half the job right there and I'm so used to it.

I will update if my issue is resolved once the new parts are in and all.

Last edited by TheMidnightNarwhal; 05-15-2022 at 02:05 PM..
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TheMidnightNarwhal TheMidnightNarwhal is offline
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Default 05-16-2022, 01:56 PM

I decided to just take it out anyway and inspect. It seems to have groving as well, not as bad for sure, but enough to catch a fingernail. I'll leave it be for now since I didn't expect to spend another 500$ and no codes. But yeah that sucks thought these seals wouldn't cause this I'm only at 100k miles.

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Default 05-16-2022, 02:04 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal
I decided to just take it out anyway and inspect. It seems to have groving as well, not as bad for sure, but enough to catch a fingernail. I'll leave it be for now since I didn't expect to spend another 500$ and no codes. But yeah that sucks thought these seals wouldn't cause this I'm only at 100k miles.

Glad youíve found the likely issue. My exhaust looked somewhat similar and I put it back in as mentioned - Iím sure itíll go at some point but will await the day.

What country are you in? If youíre in a market that got the N53; buy a second hand cam ledge on eBay - they seem to have much less of a problem. Much cheaper than new!


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TheMidnightNarwhal TheMidnightNarwhal is offline
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Default 05-16-2022, 02:25 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon513
Glad you’ve found the likely issue. My exhaust looked somewhat similar and I put it back in as mentioned - I’m sure it’ll go at some point but will await the day.

What country are you in? If you’re in a market that got the N53; buy a second hand cam ledge on eBay - they seem to have much less of a problem. Much cheaper than new!
I'm in Canada here. I did try to look on ebay there for some potential used ones but they all had a little groove so I figured I'd give up on that. That said I only see international offerings from the UK so that's probably why I don't have much selection.

Actually I think we have N53s here but anything used that is like E9X generation is pretty rare and I don't know where else I could order it other than ebay.
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