[Jlampe89]

I recently found out that I have metal shavings in my motor and the tech at Midas said I need the whole motor and turbos replaced. They said that they think that the bearings and rods could not handle the power from the mods that I added to my car. The car only has 50k miles. Although I don't have it modified incredibly heavy, the car is significantly faster than stock. My current mods include jb4(I always have it in Map 0 which I assumed was off), stage 2 lpfp, Cobb high flow turbo back exhaust, dual cone intake, Cobb FMIC. Has anyone seen this before that can possibly give me some insight on why this could have happened? I change the oil every few thousand miles using BMW twin turbo oil. Also, does anyone know where to find a used lower mile N54?

[THE BEAST]

Did you see said shavings ???

[TimboBlackkers]

Originally Posted by Jlampe89

I recently found out that I have metal shavings in my motor and the tech at Midas said I need the whole motor and turbos replaced. They said that they think that the bearings and rods could not handle the power from the mods that I added to my car. The car only has 50k miles. Although I don't have it modified incredibly heavy, the car is significantly faster than stock. My current mods include jb4(I always have it in Map 0 which I assumed was off), stage 2 lpfp, Cobb high flow turbo back exhaust, dual cone intake, Cobb FMIC. Has anyone seen this before that can possibly give me some insight on why this could have happened? I change the oil every few thousand miles using BMW twin turbo oil. Also, does anyone know where to find a used lower mile N54?

Sounds fishy to me.

Take it elsewhere for a 2nd opinion. There are people running twice as much HP as you and the N54 handles it like a champ.

[THE BEAST]

Originally Posted by TimboBlackkers

Sounds fishy to me.

Take it elsewhere for a 2nd opinion. There are people running twice as much HP as you and the N54 handles it like a champ.

Agreed, but wtf , how is the car significantly faster than stock, but Jb4 is ALWAYS on map 0 ? Now that sounds fishy.

[TimboBlackkers]

Originally Posted by THE BEAST

Agreed, but wtf , how is the car significantly faster than stock, but Jb4 is ALWAYS on map 0 ? Now that sounds fishy.

Why you would use Map 0 is beyond me

[Jlampe89]

I did not see the shavings. I will for sure take it elsewhere for a second opinion. I originally took the car in because it has a flutter sound when I hit the gas and when I am in park and rev it up, it makes a loud rattling sound at times. I run map 0 because I spend a lot of time on the highway and if I run map 5 going 85mph for an extended period of time, my temp gauge gets higher than I would like it to. I am not literally always on map 0. Just most of the time. So I shut the jb4 off unless I am racing. The jb4 plus the stage 2 fuel pump alone make the car far more powerful than stock.

[tisdrew]

They may be trying to sucker you into a high bill -- definitely get it checked out by another shop, maybe even a third shop. Another "unnecessary" oil change for $100 to determine if your engine is dying is worth it. It'll take 30 minutes to have it done somewhere, I'd do so today/tomorrow.

If there are metal shavings, you could be looking at an engine rebuild ~$5k or junkyard engine swap ~$3k. If it's "just" some conrod bearing wear or cam ledge wear, those are roughly $1500 jobs each but beg the question, why does that need to be done on a 50k mile motor? Sounds like you've been keeping up with regular oil changes

[codesx]

Any chance you care to post some JB4 logs, either in Map 4 or 5?

Curious how the LPFP adds power. You'd need additional air if you were 'adding' more fuel.
I can totally see how if your pressure was low, you'd need something, and that can affect power. (returning to stock power)
Perhaps the power increase is from the ***-back. Still, not substantial on stock boost.

Logs would be fascinating and possibly helpful.

What brought you to test your oil for metal?
What are your oil change intervals?

[ManiN54]

If you have metal shavings in your oil from rod bearings it’s highly likely you will hear rod-knock and there will be a whole lot of shavings in your oil filter.

[mj6234]

Lol, someone at Midas told you this? I wouldnt believe a word they said.

[Boland01]

Drain your oil and look for tiny shiny flecks of metal in it. Pull your oil filter and look for tiny spec's of metal in that too. If you don't see anything and want to be absolutely sure then send a sample of oil to Blackstone for analysis.

Typically, when rod bearings go you can hear them from half a block away.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Boland01

Drain your oil and look for tiny shiny flecks of metal in it. Pull your oil filter and look for tiny spec's of metal in that too. If you don't see anything and want to be absolutely sure then send a sample of oil to Blackstone for analysis.

Typically, when rod bearings go you can hear them from half a block away.

You want to do what Boland suggests ASAP!

But I can tell you from personal experience that rod bearing failure can start with behavior a little more subtle. You report a rattling sound when reving - that could be the start of it. You also report higher than normal temperatures - that also fits.

[Jlampe89]

It is the rod bearings I found out. Thanks for the input guys.

[THE BEAST]

How does a 50k motor mildly tuned destroy rod bearings ?

[dpaul]

Clearly, it's not the tune per se.

One explanation is an oiling problem. Run it with leaking injectors for a good while, gas dilutes the oil, lubrication is inadequate, bearing fails. Careless install of oil filter (without the center post which sometimes breaks off the cap) can lead to oil being shunted away from its intended path, bearing fails.

Or this one came from the factory with all the tolerances stacked up in such a way that bearing clearances were marginal. That happened on S54 and S65 engines at a significant frequency. Bearing fails.