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MasterYous MasterYous is offline
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Icon1 HOWTO: M240i (F22/23) BMS WMI Install - 03-05-2019, 02:00 PM

Here's a long-overdue DIY on how to get the meth kit put into a 2-series car. It could probably apply to other newer F-series small cars too but the photos are from the F22/F23 series.

This write-up focuses on the physical installation of the pump, tube, and the like. BMS already has really good documentation on the electrical, so use that. I do include a photo of what my final "under-the-hood" electrical looks like, along with some experiences, but the main focus is getting the lines run and plugged together (plumbing).

POINTERS/WARNINGS:
- We will be doing an interior run here
- DO NOT CUT ANY METH TUBE AHEAD OF TIME
- DO NOT CUT YOUR RED PUMP POWER WIRE
- DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY'S NEGATIVE TERMINAL IN THE TRUNK
- AFTER BATTERY DISCONN, LEAVE YOUR TRUNK LID OPEN AND LEAVE YOUR WINDOWS DOWN AND DOORS OPEN. DO NOT CLOSE ANYTHING UNTIL AFTER WE ARE DONE!

"Step" 0. Get your tools ready. Prying tool (spudger), electrical tape, wire cutters, needlenose pliers, masking/blue tape, long screwdriver, 10mm socket, headlamp/flashlight, and wire fishing spool! You also need wrenches for the 1/4" brass fittings for the tube.

1. Remove the driver's door sill. This seems intimidating if you've never done it before, but it's very easy to do. Gently pry up the black plastic just inside the entry sill. This will expose the car's frame, which has several small holes that some white tabs go into. You can leave these tabs in, but if they remained attached to your sill frame that is also ok.

2. Pry loose the left rear quarterpanel (with the big speaker on it). You do NOT need to remove it fully, nor do you need to move it far - just enough to get some line in there. Be CAREFUL as you pry - there are small blue and gray fasteners that hold everything in place. If you break or bend one, it's not a huge deal; head over to your BMW part shop and pick up some replacements (or order online). You ONLY need to pry off the end of the quarterpanel closest to the door. The photos later on will show exactly where as we start to run the line.

3. Remove the long vertical corner piece of your left rear seat. This pries right off, first towards you, and then slides up and off. It's hard to break anything with this part, so just use minimal force and pry it loose. The white tab may or may not come off. If it does not (as in this photo), remove it manually by pulling down on the tab at the top, and insert it back into the seat piece you just removed. This will make replacing it later much easier.


4. Remove your trunk floor liner. Easy.

5. Fold down your rear seat. Even easier. This gives you easy access to the trunk panels we're going to remove next.

6. Remove some trunk panels. You want to remove the center panel separating the carpeted back of the rear seat from the trunk (this is the part that the rear seat lays on top of when it's fully upright), and also remove the two side pieces that slide into the center piece. This is all very very easy and you do not need any tools. There are some black plastic rivets that you remove to do this. The rivets have a small center piece (shaft) that applies pressure to keep things snug. Use your nail to pull the center plug up, which will loosen the rivet, and then you can pull it straight out. Rivets are completely reusable as long as you do not damage them. The carpeted panel pieces simply fit together and then get riveted into place through their holes, so it's easy to remove and put back. You CAN do it! You will see some of these panels in the photo in step 21.

7. Remove the driver's side footwell panel. There are plenty of write-ups on this - take a 10mm socket and remove the three nuts below the footwell, then pry the panel loose. Disconnect the light and microphone plugs and put the panel aside. You will have done this already if you ran the CANbus/OBDII wire through your driver's side firewall.

8. From under the footwell panel, remove the hood lever. There is a Philips screw that holds the lever in place, so remove it first. Now remove the smaller Phillips screw holding the small piece of plastic that frames the hood release button and the button.
Unplug the button from the white connector, and remove the plastic frame. This exposes the edge of the carpeting. You will be running the line through here. Here's what everything looks like, disassembled:


9. Under the hood, on the driver's side, find your firewall hole. If you have a manual transmission, it's where the clutch line goes. Automatics don't have this wire so it's easier to run stuff... but it doesn't matter, there is room for everything. Go under the hood, find the grommet if it's there, remove it/punch through it, and gain access to the hole. Punch through the rubbery material inside the hole with a long thin rigid object like a large screwdriver and get your screwdriver all the way through from under-hood to the inside of your car where the footwell panel was. The photo below shows the red pump wire, the meth line, and the JB4 CANbus wire all fitting merrily alongside the clutch line through the firewall hole. Note the grommet has been fully removed.


10. Use masking tape and tape one end of your nylon meth tube together with the long, red pump power line. Make sure the ends line up as much as possible. It might also help to use some additional tape at several inch intervals down from the end, until there isn't much risk of the two lines splitting. You will see in the photos that I have done this additional taping.

11. Feed this end from under the footwell panel, up through the firewall hole (alongside your CANbus wire if you also put that here). Push just enough to get it through the hole; it's rigid enough to do this without fishing. Sometimes it helps to use olive oil or some other viscous, slippery substance on the clutch line and around the hole to help push through other wires.


12. From under-hood, pull through enough of the line so you can ensure that everything will reach the locations where you need to install stuff - LOOK AT THE BMS WMI DOCUMENT. You have to make sure your red pump wire is long enough to reach your fusebox area and that your nylon meth tube line is long enough to reach whereever you put your solenoid. Below you will see what things look like before being connected, but clearly long enough to reach whereever I well please.


13. Start feeding your meth line tube below the carpet in the front of the car, working your way slowly back towards the rear. Start by wedging the early part of the tube run underneath the carpet up near the footwell (the parts you removed in steps 7 and 8) and don't leave too much excess line in this part. Make it nice and snug:


14. Now continue to run the line alongside the door frame, towards the sill. Leave a little slack of course, but not too much line and get it under the carpet alongside the door. Work the line and red wire along your sill and towards the rear of the vehicle. You don't want a bunch of excess line bunching or curling up under your carpets here. If you're doing it right, the excess remains at the END of your line, not the part you're working inside your carpets. This is what a good run looks like, before you tuck it underneath the carpet. Note that there is some slack but not too much:


15. At this point you've tucked all the parts of the run so far under the carpet! Don't leave anything exposed. Now take the very other end of your line and very other end of your red pump wire. Make sure the end of your red pump line and end of your tube align as much as possible, and tape them together. As in step 10, it might help to tape at a couple more intervals further down from the end.

16. Run your fish wire forward towards the front of the car, starting from the trunk area. Go through the rear seat cavity, make a left into the corner of the left seat (remember the vertical seat piece you removed in step 3?) and finally through the quarterpanel. When going through the quarterpanel stay towards the bottom, so you wind up right at the door sill. This is the single most difficult part, but you can do this with enough trial and error. It might help to tape the tip of your fishing wire hook so it does not snag. This protects against pulling or hooking against speaker wires or any other electrical that's already in there. Photos would make this much simpler to imagine, so you can see where I ran the fish tape in the following steps. From the trunk, this is how the line starts to be run:


In the photo below, you can see where the wire exits the rear quarterpanel, before it is taped to the end of the meth line for fishing. This is where you want the fishing wire to wind up! Remember above you already covered your fishing wire hook (if you have a hook) with tape to avoid snags, but you should remove that layer of tape now. Then hook the end of your line to the fishing wire:


17. Now tape the fishing wire hook to the tape bundle in step 15, ensuring there will be no snags as you pull.


18. Gently insert the end of the line coming up from the sill into the beginning of the quarterpanel while starting to pull the fishing wire. The goal of this step is to get the meth line pulled into and routed at the appropriate angle into the panel. You will need to manually position and adjust the tube with one hand while adjusting the fishing wire with the other until it starts to pull through smoothly. You can make small "strategic" pulls on the fishing wire from the seat corner section discussed in step 3.

(photo of getting the line pulled towards the panel, before entry):

(photo of manually positioning and adjusting the tube with one hand while pulling on the fishing wire with the other until it starts to pull through smoothly. You can see now that the end of the line is already inside the panel):


19. Once the end of the line is routed properly into the beginning of the quarterpanel, you can go around to the back of the car and resume pulling with your fishing wire, pulling it back through the car and running the meth tube where the wire was. The correct run will route the line behind the quarterpanel and out at the location of the seat corner section you removed in step 3. Slow down or stop if you encounter resistance; push the fish wire back forward a bit, manually adjust the tube line, and resume. Pulling too hard risks either disconnecting the fishing wire from the tube, meaning you will have to start fishing all over again; or dislodging existing electrical wiring behind the quarterpanel, which would be a "Very Bad Thing." Anyway, pull until the line is routed through the quarterpanel...


...and back into the trunk...


...keep pulling from the trunk until as much of the line as possible has run through and is sitting in your trunk!


20. Go into the trunk and work on the pump and tank. Start with the short (pump-to-tank) meth line first. It's easiest if you install the pump to the tank first, AND THEN do the short line. Connect the tube to the brass elbow first, then screw in this brass elbow fitting to the tank and connect the other end of the tube to the inlet pump hole.

21. After this, remove the fishing wire and the tape from your long tube and pump wire run, which should now be sitting in the trunk. Connect the tube line into your pump, following the instructions in the BMS WMI installation document, by plumbing it into the outlet pump hole. Use the plastic elbow fitting for that. Also - as a reminder - do not cut any tubing nor finalize the installation of your tank until you verify your line is long enough. If you didn't cut anything yet, you should be fine. Once you have settled that you have enough line length, cut the excess tubing. When you cut, remember you will need some more meth tube line for the connection from the solenoid to the meth bungs in the throttle-body adapter, so leave the entire length you cut off as-is! Now connect the long run line to the plastic pump inlet fitting and insert the fitting firmly into the pump inlet hole. Ground the black pump wire to a protruding metal screw in the trunk - there are a couple of those visible in the photo in step 19. Take one of the included wire nuts and twist together the long red pump power line to the red wire protruding from the pump. AFTER THIS, it is ok to permanently affix your tank into the car trunk. I used industrial strength Velcro (Velcro brand), which sticks great to the carpet of the trunk liner. Here's a photo of what the pump installation looks like. You can see the details of how the pump and some of the fittings and tubes are connected. The meth tube runs under the trunk floor liner and out around to the left side of the car, into the corner of the rear seat (seat section removed), and into the quarterpanel. You can also see the Velcro on the pump:


22. Go under the hood and connect all electrical components. Follow the BMS WMI Installation Document! One thing to note: the 12v power line is thick enough such that your fusebox will not close properly unless you drill a hole. Don't drill a hole and don't worry about the box not closing fully, because it won't come off; at least it does not for me.

23. Still under the hood, do the plumbing. FOLLOW THE BMS DOCUMENT. Here are some tips:
a. Plumb in your long meth line to the solenoid AFTER doing the electrical part of the solenoid wiring, because you are more length-limited on the electrical wiring. This way you will have chosen the final resting place for that solenoid. I wanted a super-clean installation, so I managed to position it under the driver-side cowl, and grounded it to a bolt near there. THEN connect the long tube from the trunk to the solenoid! The picture below shows where the meth tube that we just ran into the trunk connects to the solenoid. Note the solenoid location under the cowl, and note the two black wires, one for grounding, and one to connect to the FSB:


b. For the line from the solenoid to the t-fitting, I ran the extra length of tubing I needed first under the rubber wire protectors under the hood (off to the side); THEN I plumbed one end into the solenoid and the other end into the t-fitting.

c. For the final part from the t-fitting to the two nozzles in the chargepipe adapter, for me it was much easier to install the nozzles into the chargepipe adapter AND THEN to plumb in the meth lines to the nozzles, ALL BEFORE installing the adapter. Here's a photo of the meth bungs, t-fittings, and adapter. The line you see in the foreground is the line running from the solenoid, which you can't yet see in the picture above in Step 23:


24. Replace all the parts you disassembled. Replace the trunk panels by repositioning them manually - center piece first, then the two sides, then rivet them back into place. The rivets work by pushing the center piece back down. Snap your corner seat section back into place, and then gently snap your quarterpanel back into place. Ensure proper alignment as you do this so you do not bend or break any plastic fasteners. Then reattach your door sill frame by aligning the sliding white tabs properly and pushing them into the holes in the car's frame. You will find that everything that involved prying is much easier to put back into place than to take apart! For the footwell area, reassemble the smaller footwell parts first including the trunk release button and its frame and the hood lever, screwing everything back into place. Then put the footwell panel back near its original location, ensuring you first plug the microphone and light back in, and then slide and push the panel back into its final place; tighten the nuts with your 10mm socket. Reconnect your negative battery terminal in the trunk. Replace your trunk liner.

25. Prime your meth pump/line per the BMS WMI document and enjoy!

Here are some final installation pictures, to put everything above into perspective.

Overall perspective of components, with engine cover and cowls removed so you can see where stuff goes:


JB4 plus all electrical. Note the 12v switched power line running from the fusebox and fuse in the very center of the frame. The FSB is visible in the foreground (small black box at lower center). It is grounded to a bolt on the other side of the rubber cowl seal. You can see the wire nut connecting the 12v power to the FSB, and another nut bridging the green FSB wire to the solenoid:


Under the hood, fully clean installation with all covers applied:


Hope y'all find this helpful.

----------
update 3/27/2019:
I thought it might be helpful to share an idea about how to painlessly fill the methanol tank in the trunk. My tank is pretty clamped down so I do not like to move it to unscrew the lid and I don't have very much headroom for pouring. This is mostly only a problem in convertibles or other small cars. BUT - more importantly - this method eliminates the risk of a spill when using funnels or other pouring containers.

I had an atomizing sprayer laying around. This thing was about $25 dollars from one of the big box hardware stores and is typically used to apply pesticide, weed killer, siding cleaner, or other hazardous chemicals safely (often sold under the Roundup or DB Smith brands). My meth tank is 2 gallons, and so is this sprayer, but it doesn't have to match exactly, so long as you can prepare your desired ratio of meth to water.

Anyway, clean it out well if it's been used. Check that the valves and o-rings don't leak, as you would for any other substance. Fill it with your ratio of meth and/or water. For example, for a 2-gallon meth tank at 50/50 proportions, do one gallon of water and one gallon of meth - conveniently this sprayer is marked at 1 gallon and 2 gallon intervals. Screw the lid on and seal it. For the nozzle end, it naturally should have an elbow attachment, which is perfect for this task, onto which you screw nozzle attachments. Remove any nozzle attachment, and put the attachment end into your meth tank opening. Pump the sprayer full of air, hit the trigger, and your water/meth mix will now cleanly drain into your meth tank. See below for what this looks like:



2017 F23/M240i Convertible (B58) / 6MT / FF Wires / EWG Wires / BMS Air Intake / Stock Exhaust / BMS Meth (100%) / 93 Octane

Last edited by MasterYous; 03-27-2019 at 01:30 PM.. Reason: More photos! (3/6/2019); added WMI filling instructions (3/27/2019)
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dRDiesel dRDiesel is offline
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Default 03-05-2019, 02:15 PM

Very good write up thanks for doing this.

I routed the lines and wires from under the car following the fuel lines from the gas tank with using the 3 gallon stealth tank. There is a rubber plug in the trunk and i just cut a X through it and fed it through. In case anyone is interested the process is the same as OP write up:





| 2018 BMW 340i | M-Sport | Track Handling Package |
| Pure Stage 1 | MPE + ER down-pipe | BMS Intake | JB4 + MHD | BMS Meth Kit |
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MasterYous MasterYous is offline
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Default 03-06-2019, 11:23 AM

Thanks for the extra help! That's a nice way to do it too. I didn't want to take the chance of the wire getting damaged on the outside, but there are safety benefits to doing it outside, if it ever does leak.


2017 F23/M240i Convertible (B58) / 6MT / FF Wires / EWG Wires / BMS Air Intake / Stock Exhaust / BMS Meth (100%) / 93 Octane
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MasterYous MasterYous is offline
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Default 03-06-2019, 11:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterYous
Here's a long-overdue DIY on how to get the meth kit put into a 2-series car. It could probably apply to other newer F-series small cars too but the photos are from the F22/F23 series.

...

Hope y'all find this helpful.
Edited to add new pictures of final installation and electrical connections.


2017 F23/M240i Convertible (B58) / 6MT / FF Wires / EWG Wires / BMS Air Intake / Stock Exhaust / BMS Meth (100%) / 93 Octane
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JBoe JBoe is offline
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Default 03-10-2019, 10:39 PM

Nice writeup. Just noticed in the throttle body pic (23C)... is your upper hose for the nozzle kinked a bit?
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MasterYous MasterYous is offline
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Default 03-11-2019, 04:56 AM

You have good eyes, yes it is kinked ever so slightly. I’ve tested with purge multiple times and the flow seems ok. I’ll PM you a separate thread to continue the discussion.


2017 F23/M240i Convertible (B58) / 6MT / FF Wires / EWG Wires / BMS Air Intake / Stock Exhaust / BMS Meth (100%) / 93 Octane
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MasterYous MasterYous is offline
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Default 03-27-2019, 01:24 PM

update 3/27/2019:
I thought it might help to share an idea about how to painlessly fill the methanol tank in the trunk, or at least what I do. My tank is pretty clamped down so I do not like to remove it to unscrew the lid. This is likely mostly only a problem in convertibles or other small cars, I'll admit. However, nor do I like to risk a spill by using funnels or other pouring containers, and probably, neither do you. See the end of the first post for instructions and pictures...


2017 F23/M240i Convertible (B58) / 6MT / FF Wires / EWG Wires / BMS Air Intake / Stock Exhaust / BMS Meth (100%) / 93 Octane
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