N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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bconnelly@nc.rr.com bconnelly@nc.rr.com is offline
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Default What to do next to get rid of codes - 09-09-2019, 06:26 PM

I have had my 2010 535XDrive (78,000 miles when I purchased) right at 2 years now. I have put IDK how much money into her already (North of 5K) trying to get her right. Shortly after purchasing her, she started throwing vacuum leak codes. My mechanic expressed they thought it may be the turbos and recommended I take it to the dealer since I still had 4,000 miles left on the turbo warranty. After 4 trips the dealership and replacing BOV and some other parts around the Turbos they finally replaced the turbos under warranty, which did not fix the issue with the check engine light throwing vacuum leak codes. One last look and the BMW tech found that the car apparently had a bad JB4 chip which had been throwing the codes the whole time. The removed the chip, and I got the car back with no more codes (car still had a little bit of a stutter when at high acceleration, but I brushed it off as though I was feeling bumps in the road as opposed to be the car.

About a year later I had to have my mechanic replace the clutch a few months. It was at that time that my check engine light started coming back on again for vacuum leak. At this point I decided to start getting a little more involved because I could not afford to continue to take it to the shop for everything, I had to be able to start doing some of the work myself. I performed a smoke test and found a leak at the rear turbo where the inlet pipe comes in (thinking probably crack in inlet pipe). I was planning to do the work myself until I researched how difficult the job was. After taking in back to my mechanic they found that when the turbos had been replaced, that one of the bolts in the inlet pipe was not put back in... Maybe my mechanic jarred it loose when changing clutch....
After my mechanic put the bolt back into the rear inlet pipe ($600 later) the car has never run better!!! The little stuttering when accelerating hard was gone! Ran the best ever! NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS!!!

So that brings us to the current state of affair (Sorry if this is more information that needed, just not sure what is relevant or not)

When getting my car back my mechanic expressed to me that the oil filter housing had an oil leak which should be addressed... Also, mentioned that if that was to be done, might as well change serpentine belt and radiator hose.

KEEP IN MIND, AT THIS POINT I HAD NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ON

I decided that was a job I could tackle, and proceeded to order all the parts and do the job. All seemed to go well.... Until after I took her out for a drive.
after a couple short 1-2 miles test runs the engine light comes back on with these codes. (Using Protool app thru Andriod device)
2C3F - O2 sensor before *** (line fault)
2CF - Combustion misfire, cylinder 3
29D9 - Misfire at low tank fill level

I don't see how any of the work I did would be relate to or have caused these issues...I did notice that when removing the intake manifold that the valves did have some carbon build up. I don't know if maybe I knocked some carbon off when remove manifold, could that have affected an injector or something???

Being that the car is at 108,000 miles I decided to go ahead and replace the spark plugs, coil packs and both O2 sensors before the *** to see if that would fix it, or at least rule them out of being the issue.
Reset the codes and the car drove better for a few miles, then started acting up...This time I drove the car to work for a day so I could put more the a couple miles on it, and after 10-15 miles the car really started acting up and shuttered hard when RPM's are under 3,000. The car seems to smooth out when RPM's are over 3,000...But once the car is warmed up runs very rough at low RPM's

Here are the codes now

2CAA
29CD
29CE
29CC
2C3F
2C39

It just seems odd that this happened after replacing oil filter housing gasket, serpentine belt, and radiator hoses. Is this pointing to the injectors or what? I don't want to just keep throwing parts at it...Although, I do feel the spark plugs coil packs and O2 sensors were good PM anyways, but not sure where to go from here.
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JuniorB JuniorB is offline
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Default 09-10-2019, 11:32 AM

Seeing that you removed the intake with no codes, I’d start there, make sure everything is plugged in and seated, how do you get a laundry list of codes by doing an oil housing gasket? Double check everything you touched.
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Dave @ BMS/Fuel-It! Dave @ BMS/Fuel-It! is offline
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Default 09-11-2019, 10:35 AM

Can you list the code descriptions for the ones currently being thrown please?



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bconnelly@nc.rr.com bconnelly@nc.rr.com is offline
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Default 09-12-2019, 01:08 PM

Here are my current codes with discriptions

29CD - Combustion misfire, cylinder 1
29CE - Combustion misfire, cylinder 2
29CF - Combustion misfire, cylinder 3
29CC - Combustion misfire, several cylinders
30FF - Turbo Charger-air pressure too low
2C39 - Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter: dynamics

Racking my brain over this one...I am going to go back and double check all of my connections....
Feel like it's something simple, and just about at a loss what to do.
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Default 09-12-2019, 01:11 PM

This could be something as simple as replacing coil packs / changing spark plugs for the misfires- Move cyl 1-3 coils to 4-6 and see if the misfires follow.

Replace that o2 & i think you will be fine.



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bconnelly@nc.rr.com bconnelly@nc.rr.com is offline
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Default 09-12-2019, 01:50 PM

As stated in my original post, in trying to resolve this issue (and preventive maint) I have replaced all spark, coil packs and both o2 sensors.

With that being said, I think I just figured it out!!! After checking all my connections for about the 10th time, I found one of the wires leading to my o2 sensor is cut. Looks like when I bolted the intake manifold back on i pinched the wire under the manifold right where 1 of the bolts is...

If you look real close at the second pic you can see a little bit of the yellow wire sleeve left next the bolt where it bolts on next the the oil filter housing...

So now, question is...
Is there any reason I should not just splice the wire back together as opposed to replacing the entire wire harness???

Feeling a little gun shy right now.
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bconnelly@nc.rr.com bconnelly@nc.rr.com is offline
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Default 09-12-2019, 04:32 PM

I think I may have fixed her!

I went ahead and did a temporary splice of the broken wire reset my codes and took her out for a test drive. so far.....NO CODES!!!
Not that I'm 100% sure, at least, until I've driven her a full day, but I do think problem resolved!

I will update tomorrow once I know for sure.
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bconnelly@nc.rr.com bconnelly@nc.rr.com is offline
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Default 09-14-2019, 06:24 AM

Drove almost 100 miles yesterday with no engine light!
I am going to order a new wiring harness to replace the splice job, and I think I am going to invest in some brighter shop lights. It's amazing how I looked things over so many times without seeing the cut wire. On the final inspection I changed batteries on my flashlight, and wow what a difference. Broken wire was all of a sudden easy to find. Funny what shadows can hide.
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Default 09-14-2019, 07:20 AM

Nice! Glad you took the time to recheck. Enjoy the weekend



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Default 09-15-2019, 10:27 AM

Its great when ghost issues get resolved and get documented here. It will definitely help someone in the future.
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