N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
(#476)
Old
bmeaggie's Avatar
bmeaggie bmeaggie is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 33
Join Date: Sep 2015
Car: 2015 DCT Alpine White M4
Thumbs up 06-27-2021, 04:28 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade.JL
The WMI kit is well worth the money. Over on the Alfa forum there has only been a couple of people to do it to their Giulias with a some saying that it even lost power; doesn't make any sense to me because I gained power and it is very noticeable. In this heat we have right now, about 90-95 degree days I went from running a 13.70@98.8mph on 94 pump gas alone to a 40/60 meth/water mix (-40 rated blue mopar washer fluid) on the same gas, ran a 13.55@100.5mph. I tapped my factory washer fluid tank for a cleaner install, mounted the pump in between the brake fluid reservoir and frame, in front of the brake booster, used a single BM7 nozzle and tappped and threaded into the stock charge pipe post IAT and map sensor but pre throttle body at a 90 degree angle on the passenger side of the charge pipe (looking at it while it is installed on the engine). I was able to increase my map 6 boost levels 3 psi across the board over pump gas only settings safely. Timing is strong in every gear and looks similar to map 0 timing curves. 7 hours of install time, but that is because I tucked everything nicely, soldered every connection, and wire loomed everything including the meth line. It almost looks like it came that way from the factory. The inital price and install time is very much worth what it costs to run it, which is my price of 3 bucks a gallon of 40/60 fluid, part# 0VU01321AB. I only did 1 dragy run and never launched super hard but the WMI seems to be worth about 2 tenths in ET time and maybe a 2 mph gain in trap speed. I'd guess somewhere in the range of a 20-30whp increase after tuning for it. My Jeep is going to the dyno on July 7th and I will post numbers shortly after. Im going to pull the fuse for the FSB power to disbale the WMI completely and go back to the pump gas only map 6 and do a couple dyno pulls. Then I'll plug the fuse back in and input my WMI map 6 setting and do more dyno pulls. I'm curious to see the difference myself. I'd choose WMI over E85 anyday seeing as it is almost non existant where I live and also not to mention I'd need to get an upgraded HPFP which may or may not even exist yet, if ever, and possibly bigger injectors. Pretty much a no brainer and Terry helped me set it up with a firmware update to the JB4 and values to input into WMI and user adjustment settings on the interface. All in all, very happy. Also I experimented a little more with the tune and I was able to safely put the 5,000 rpm value at 3.0 instead of at 0. Timing still looked good with that change too and gave me some more top end power. That's still on pump gas only, no meth. If you are thinking about getting a WMI kit let me know and I can post pictures of how I have mine setup and what I ordered from BMS.

My new Map 6 settings for 94 pump gas only (different from my last post):

1,500 - 4.0
2,000 - 9.9
2,500 - 10.5
3,000 - 10.9
3,500 - 10.9
4,000 - 9.9
4,500 - 7.0
5,000 - 3.0
5,500 - 0

Map 6 settings for 94 pump + 40/60 meth

1,500 - 7.0
2,000 - 13.1
2,500 - 13.5
3,000 - 14.1
3,500 - 14.1
4,000 - 13.1
4,500 - 9.9
5,000 - 6.0
5,500 - 0
Very glad to see thisÖ seems like my logical next step as well. Nothing cheaper than e85 IF itís available in abundance locally and IF you have the pump, injectors and tune to bring it all together. Done a Hellcat and a 3V Mustang build for that and itís great. Ö but with the Jeep I think the WMI kit makes more sense. Going to order mine too. Thanks so much for posting your experience and results.

Question: What plugs are you using now?


2020 2-Door Rubicon 2.0T
Spare Tire Delete
Muffler Delete
Trailer Hitch Delete
Mishimoto CAI
BMS JB4
Reply With Quote
(#477)
Old
bmeaggie's Avatar
bmeaggie bmeaggie is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 33
Join Date: Sep 2015
Car: 2015 DCT Alpine White M4
Angry 06-27-2021, 04:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmeaggie
Very glad to see thisÖ seems like my logical next step as well. Nothing cheaper than e85 IF itís available in abundance locally and IF you have the pump, injectors and tune to bring it all together. Done a Hellcat and a 3V Mustang build for that and itís great. Ö but with the Jeep I think the WMI kit makes more sense. Going to order mine too. Thanks so much for posting your experience and results.

Question: What plugs are you using now?
Of course since my company is moving me to CA I need to figure out whatís actually legal here in this messed up pansy ass state (although San Diego is very nice). My go-fast car and my truck could never come here damnit.


2020 2-Door Rubicon 2.0T
Spare Tire Delete
Muffler Delete
Trailer Hitch Delete
Mishimoto CAI
BMS JB4
Reply With Quote
(#478)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 06-27-2021, 05:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmeaggie
Very glad to see thisÖ seems like my logical next step as well. Nothing cheaper than e85 IF itís available in abundance locally and IF you have the pump, injectors and tune to bring it all together. Done a Hellcat and a 3V Mustang build for that and itís great. Ö but with the Jeep I think the WMI kit makes more sense. Going to order mine too. Thanks so much for posting your experience and results.

Question: What plugs are you using now?
Yea I always here about ****ty California gas and for anyone modifying vehicles there, E85 or WMI is a must. Stock plugs are a 7 heat range and im running an NGK 8 heat range. Part # LKR8BHX-S. I gapped them @ 0.025". Ill try to post up some pictures soon of my setup for you and anybody else to see. The instructions for the universal kit are 99% clear cut except for the blue wire for the FSB. Terry also confirms that the blue wire goes in cavity #16 for the Jeep platform. As for the FSB switched 12V feed, I spliced into the switched 12V that feeds the drivetrain control module. It's a pink wire with a green tracer located on the black harness connecter that plugs in underneath to the PDC. There a 2 pink w/green tracer wires right next to each other. The one you want to splice is the one furthest from the edge of the connector. Or you could find also find a different switched 12v source. That was just the closest and easiest spot for me.
Reply With Quote
(#479)
Old
bmeaggie's Avatar
bmeaggie bmeaggie is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 33
Join Date: Sep 2015
Car: 2015 DCT Alpine White M4
Smile 06-27-2021, 06:15 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade.JL
Yea I always here about ****ty California gas and for anyone modifying vehicles there, E85 or WMI is a must. Stock plugs are a 7 heat range and im running an NGK 8 heat range. Part # LKR8BHX-S. I gapped them @ 0.025". Ill try to post up some pictures soon of my setup for you and anybody else to see. The instructions for the universal kit are 99% clear cut except for the blue wire for the FSB. Terry also confirms that the blue wire goes in cavity #16 for the Jeep platform. As for the FSB switched 12V feed, I spliced into the switched 12V that feeds the drivetrain control module. It's a pink wire with a green tracer located on the black harness connecter that plugs in underneath to the PDC. There a 2 pink w/green tracer wires right next to each other. The one you want to splice is the one furthest from the edge of the connector. Or you could find also find a different switched 12v source. That was just the closest and easiest spot for me.
Ordered the WMI kit. Appreciate the notes on the install very much. I went ahead and ordered the large tankÖ not sure how I want to mount it but Iíve done enough projects like this Iíll figure out. Thanks again!


2020 2-Door Rubicon 2.0T
Spare Tire Delete
Muffler Delete
Trailer Hitch Delete
Mishimoto CAI
BMS JB4
Reply With Quote
(#480)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 06-27-2021, 08:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmeaggie
Ordered the WMI kit. Appreciate the notes on the install very much. I went ahead and ordered the large tankÖ not sure how I want to mount it but Iíve done enough projects like this Iíll figure out. Thanks again!
That's awesome. Good luck with the install and tuning.
Reply With Quote
(#481)
Old
PolkNole's Avatar
PolkNole PolkNole is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 5
Join Date: Jun 2009
Car: BMW 535i
Default 07-03-2021, 10:10 AM

Terry, will this Jeep 2.0L tune work with the new 4XE hybrid? The 4XE does use the 2.0L turbo engine but also two electric motors, one directly in the transmission. So I'm not sure the mapping is apples to apples?
Thanks...



JB4; RPi Exhaust; Sport, Prem & CW Packages; M Trunk Lip; Chrome Rims; 17% Tint; Nav; HUD; L7; Michelin PS PS2 summer tires; hardwired V1
Reply With Quote
(#482)
Old
Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
Tuner
 
Posts: 33,862
Join Date: Jan 2008
Default 07-05-2021, 01:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkNole
Terry, will this Jeep 2.0L tune work with the new 4XE hybrid? The 4XE does use the 2.0L turbo engine but also two electric motors, one directly in the transmission. So I'm not sure the mapping is apples to apples?
Thanks...
We haven't tested it directly yet, but expect it to work normally.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
Reply With Quote
(#483)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 07-22-2021, 01:39 PM

Ended up getting my Jeep dyno'd. Did a comparison between pump gas only and then pump gas + meth. I was quite surprised with the torque this thing put out.
Red line is pump gas and blue line is pump + meth. If numbers are hard to see I'll list them here:

Red - 320whp/445wtq
Blue - 333whp/470wtq

Going to try for more power with a d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e. and turbo with built and bigger internals if possible since I live only 20-30 min away from Turbo Parts Canada.
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
(#484)
Old
DeFormula DeFormula is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 50
Join Date: Feb 2021
Car: 2021 Jeep wrangler 2.0
Default 07-22-2021, 05:21 PM

Outstanding! Wade put some light weight wheels and short tires on it, pull some weight out (spare, back seat, maybe passenger seat, jack, and hardtop and see what kinda 0-60 and 1/8 mile you'd get with your Dragy. I bet it will be SiCK!!! Congrats!!
Reply With Quote
(#485)
Old
DeFormula DeFormula is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 50
Join Date: Feb 2021
Car: 2021 Jeep wrangler 2.0
Default 07-22-2021, 05:22 PM

Not to mention you should be hitting high 12s now I would think...
Reply With Quote
(#486)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 07-22-2021, 05:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeFormula
Not to mention you should be hitting high 12s now I would think...
I wish I were in the 12's tbh lol. I have the back seat out as well as a WARN spare tire delete kit. I also got a set of brand new 17" aluminum gladiator wheels which are only 19lbs a piece with the stock goodyear kevlar A/T's mounted on them. With the meth on in this heat I can consistently hit 13.72 ish at about 100mph launching in 2WD. If I launch it in 4WD and then put it back in 2 wheel at the start of 3rd gear I can hit a 13.59@100mph quarter mile and 1/8th mile is 8.62@80.01mph. The trans and transfer case doesn't like that one bit though so I almost never try to do that. in 2wd 1/8th mile is around 8.73ish@81 pretty consistently. The problem is I think the stock d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e. is choking the living hell out of the engine at these boost levels and killing my top end power. A 3" c.a.t.l.e.s.s. would add a substantial amount on the end of my power band allowing me to hold a lot more boost close to redline as well as trap a lot higher than 100mph. I watched the timing during a log and I think the c.a.t. is just creating way to much heat and not letting the exhaust escape properly. Another thing is the aerodynamics, it just doesn't have enough power to keep up with similar powered cars on the back half of the drag strip even though I eat them in the 1/8th mile. If you want to see pictures of my rig and see it in action, my instagram is wade.jl
There are some videos of me racing a cammed V8 swap S10, my buddies bolt on 370z and my other buddies built motor and single turbo G35 sedan. Note that all of those races were the same night and was extremely hot and humid out so everyone was having bad times.

Last edited by Wade.JL; 07-22-2021 at 05:45 PM..
Reply With Quote
(#487)
Old
DeFormula DeFormula is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 50
Join Date: Feb 2021
Car: 2021 Jeep wrangler 2.0
Default 07-22-2021, 07:05 PM

I went to your instagram and watched, yeah beating people in the eighth then they pull by you at the end. Except the s-10. So stick to eighth mile! Looks just like my jeep!
Reply With Quote
(#488)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 07-23-2021, 05:29 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeFormula
I went to your instagram and watched, yeah beating people in the eighth then they pull by you at the end. Except the s-10. So stick to eighth mile! Looks just like my jeep!
Yea it seems that when I race another truck or jeep I can keep them at bay on the last 1/3 of the track. I am more than happy with it in the 1/8th mile and I know it's going to be hard to get it to be fast up top because aerodynamics are against me but as long as I can beat most of these sports cars by a car length or 2 by the end of the 1/4 I'll be happy. Right now they are getting me by about 1 car length. The d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e. might be the key to that.
Reply With Quote
(#489)
Old
ericcua ericcua is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 51
Join Date: Jan 2021
Car: 21 jeep 2.0
Default 08-07-2021, 05:48 AM

Great job and great info.
I ended up putting 20's and 37's on mine also added a mbrp muffler. All required changing my boost settings. Still running strong!
Reply With Quote
(#490)
Old
ericcua ericcua is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 51
Join Date: Jan 2021
Car: 21 jeep 2.0
Default 08-19-2021, 05:03 AM

For those that read this after and to share info. My current set up is black rhino armory 20's and 37's. I am running the number 3 tune now with no bucking. Boost stays between 22-26 and I have clean shifts.
Just goes to show you have to "tune" your boost settings depending on your set up via map 6 if the supplied 1, 2 or 3 don't work.
Reply With Quote
(#491)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 08-20-2021, 07:15 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericcua
For those that read this after and to share info. My current set up is black rhino armory 20's and 37's. I am running the number 3 tune now with no bucking. Boost stays between 22-26 and I have clean shifts.
Just goes to show you have to "tune" your boost settings depending on your set up via map 6 if the supplied 1, 2 or 3 don't work.
That kind of makes sense to me seeing how I was doing some experimenting myself with the JB4. I notice the bucking seems to happen when the Jeep runs out 1st or 2nd gear too quickly, almost like the engine winds out too fast for the transmission to keep up and the transmission as a result gets caught up on itself. I notice there are 2 different types of "bucking" my Jeep does. The first kind which I just mentioned before; it kind of feels like boost and throttle cut out for a split second and the jeep lurches forward and then resumes pulling. Then there is another kind which I think is due to actual timing pull from either too much boost, too much timing pull, too much heat or a combination of all 3. It kind of sounds like an engine brake on an 18 wheeler and you lose power until you let off the throttle and press back into it again. I find this can happen at any RPM in any gear; dialing back the boost a little at whatever RPM it happens at usually fixes that problem. But the fact that you can run map 3 with no bucking seems to be a result of the heavier wheel and tire package coupled with the fact that they are 37's which act as a taller gear ratio as well; quite a bit more than the stock 33's on the rubicon, which takes longer for the engine to wind out 1st and 2nd gear. I tried changing my entire boost curve and it runs much better than my previous setup. Timing curve is a lot better and higher (before I would only hit 1-1.5 degrees advance, now I'm hitting 2.5 degrees and sometimes 3), AFR's still look good, and the top end is quite a bit faster. Old boost settings use to look like this:

1500 - 4.0
2000 - 9.9
2500 - 10.5
3000 - 13.9
3500 - 13.9
4000 - 12.9
4500 - 9.9
5000 - 5.0
5500 - 0

My new and current settings look like this:

1500 - 3.0
2000 - 7.0
2500 - 7.0
3000 - 7.0
3500 - 7.0
4000 - 7.0
4500 - 7.5
5000 - 9.9
5500 - 9.9

Boost reduction 1st - 2.3
Boost reduction 2nd - 1.6

The only thing I have to do to get this map 6 not to buck is run just enough boost reduction in 1st and 2nd gear to get the jeep not to spin the tires on a hard launch and not to run 1st or 2nd gear out to0 quickly. If I don't use boost reduction it will buck, but only at the start of 2nd gear and the start of 3rd gear. All other gears run perfect. It's about as I high as I can go with the methanol on. With these settings the top end pulls a lot harder than before. Even with the lower boost settings down low it's just about as quick out of the hole than the old settings (5.0-5.1 0-60 vs 5.1-5.2 0-60). I find the jeep doesn't like to deviate too far from the stock boost curve. It behaves a lot better when smaller increments are made between cells in map 6 user adjustments. Plus the fact that this makes, I would guess, about 70 wtq less than my old settings, it should be a lot easier on the connecting rods and gives me more peace of mind for reliability. Instead of my peak power being at 4,300 rpm like from my dyno graph, my peak power feels like it is right at redline now, around 5,300 rpm. If I were to dyno it, I would guess the graph looks like what it does stock but just elevated, probably somewhere around the 320-330whp range @ ~5,300rpm compared to stock at about 260whp @ ~5,300rpm. The power band feels more like what a sports car would feel like now, just with more torque (comparing it to my old 370Z).

Last edited by Wade.JL; 08-20-2021 at 07:21 AM..
Reply With Quote
(#492)
Old
Vinniechin Vinniechin is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 42
Join Date: May 2020
Car: Jeep rubicon
Default 09-02-2021, 08:22 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade.JL
I bought mine about 6 months ago and haven't heard of another update yet. The firmware on mine right now shows 69/2/5, which makes me think that it's the latest so far.
Thank you very much!
Reply With Quote
(#493)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 09-02-2021, 09:47 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinniechin
Thank you very much!
Just wanted to let you know there actually is a later update available for the JB4. When Terry was originally helping me setup my methanol injection a couple of months ago, he also sent me the latest firmware update. It should be 69/4/5.
Reply With Quote
(#494)
Old
Vinniechin Vinniechin is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 42
Join Date: May 2020
Car: Jeep rubicon
Default 09-02-2021, 12:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade.JL
Just wanted to let you know there actually is a later update available for the JB4. When Terry was originally helping me setup my methanol injection a couple of months ago, he also sent me the latest firmware update. It should be 69/4/5.
Thanks so much for the heads up again.
Reply With Quote
(#495)
Old
Overcrawler Overcrawler is offline
New Member
 
Posts: 1
Join Date: Sep 2021
Car: Jeep Wrangler 2.0T
Default 09-05-2021, 11:17 AM

I am local to Simi Valley, and itís not a problem to leave the vehicle for a few days to get this process moving forward. Let me know how to get this done.
Reply With Quote
(#496)
Old
DeFormula DeFormula is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 50
Join Date: Feb 2021
Car: 2021 Jeep wrangler 2.0
Default 10-22-2021, 12:35 PM

The boost reduction by gear has worked well for me getting rid of the bucking after the shift into 2nd and third gear a WOT. Planning to go to the strip tomorrow should be interesting. Wade I can't believe you're not slamming into a buck with 5K and 5.5K at 9.9 even WITH the boost reduction. Those extra mods you've done must really help!
Reply With Quote
(#497)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 10-24-2021, 09:09 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeFormula
The boost reduction by gear has worked well for me getting rid of the bucking after the shift into 2nd and third gear a WOT. Planning to go to the strip tomorrow should be interesting. Wade I can't believe you're not slamming into a buck with 5K and 5.5K at 9.9 even WITH the boost reduction. Those extra mods you've done must really help!
Yea the biggest factor in getting rid of that buck and allowing me to run a higher boost target like that in the upper RPM's, is the methanol injection. I actually did a test when it was hotter out. I left my "meth settings" as they were in map 6 and unplugged the fuse for the meth injection pump so it would no longer spray; lo and behold when I did a WOT run from a stop, it bucked. Plugged the fuse back in for the methanol injection pump, did another WOT run, no more bucking; just like clockwork. I think the biggest reason is that this engine right from the factory only runs MAX about 3 degrees of timing at WOT at redline. So when I'm watching the timing and AFR etc. I only usually have a window of 2 degrees of timing to look at, judging how much boost I need or how much is too much and needing to back it down a bit, instead of 12-15 degrees when I was trying to tune my MK7 Golf. The 2 bottle necks for this platform in my opinion is heat/timing limits (which is why the methanol helps so much) as well as some sort of TCM torque limit. HP Tuners does support tuning for both the 2.0T engine and the ZF 8 speed on this platform. I might end up getting a TCM tune so I can rule out the possibility of the trans being the main culprit as well as having a better shifting transmission obviously. A bigger and better flowing d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e. should help boost targets on the top end as well as get heat out of the engine faster. My goal is to still run 12's in my rig and I'm only about 6 tenths off. I think it's doable, with the stock turbo, once I get a soft top put on for about 100lbs less weight, a bigger d.o.w.n.p.i.p.e., mishimoto charge pipe, and re tuned for the new mods. I've been scanning the Alfa Romeo Giulia forum and there are a couple guys in the works, and few who have already done it, that are putting GTX2867 wheels inside the stock turbo housings (machined to fit of course). One guy, via dragy, was able to go from running 107ish mph traps, to 112-113mph traps from doing this, which is a BIG step up in top end power. If the mods I want to do aren't enough to get me 12's then I might have to contact the shop that did built the turbo for the guy who has his Giulia running almost in the 11's.

Last edited by Wade.JL; 10-24-2021 at 09:15 AM..
Reply With Quote
(#498)
Old
Vinniechin Vinniechin is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 42
Join Date: May 2020
Car: Jeep rubicon
Default 10-26-2021, 08:09 AM

Question about bringing Jeep into dealer.

Can I just unplug the OBD connector and leave the sensors connected so that the dealer has access to the OBD port or do I need to completely reverse the install at the sensors as well?

Lazy and big hands with stubby fingers make one of the plugs a pain to get to for me.

Thanks for any input.

Vin
Reply With Quote
(#499)
Old
Wade.JL Wade.JL is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 89
Join Date: Nov 2020
Car: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
Default 10-26-2021, 08:28 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinniechin
Question about bringing Jeep into dealer.

Can I just unplug the OBD connector and leave the sensors connected so that the dealer has access to the OBD port or do I need to completely reverse the install at the sensors as well?

Lazy and big hands with stubby fingers make one of the plugs a pain to get to for me.

Thanks for any input.

Vin
Depends on how well you know the service crew at the dealer. Since the connectors are T'd into the factory sensors and if the tech goes snooping sround under the top and side engine cover, he'll notice something is up. Maybe a good idea to unplug the 2 connectors, coil them up and hide them somewhere in thr engine bay. It depends on what they are fixing as well. If they are diving in the engine then it might be best to just remove he entire thing.
Reply With Quote
(#500)
Old
Vinniechin Vinniechin is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 42
Join Date: May 2020
Car: Jeep rubicon
Default 10-26-2021, 11:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade.JL
Depends on how well you know the service crew at the dealer. Since the connectors are T'd into the factory sensors and if the tech goes snooping sround under the top and side engine cover, he'll notice something is up. Maybe a good idea to unplug the 2 connectors, coil them up and hide them somewhere in thr engine bay. It depends on what they are fixing as well. If they are diving in the engine then it might be best to just remove he entire thing.
Thanks Wade. Its just for fuel line recall and steering box. They do need to hook up to OBD but not snooping in engine.

Just worried if the car will run funny or throw codes with it unplugged.

I was hoping being T'd I don't have to disconnect. They shouldnt be snooping or diving deep into the engine.

So the Jeep is ok to drive without the OBD plugged in but the sensors T'd?

Thansk again.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com
Copyright © 2007 - 2020, N54tech.com