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victor247 victor247 is offline
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Default 10-18-2018, 03:22 PM

Sorry guys, For what ever reason I want getting the email notifications about the tool. Yes, I still have it and rent it out. My bad.


2008 335i E93 Single turbo
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codesx codesx is offline
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Default 10-19-2018, 10:11 AM

*Subscribed*

I may be doing this shortly myself. Shredded serpentine belt and all.

Moos209, any chance you did a write up?




2008 335i Convertible, E93, N54, A/T (200,000+ km)
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rnave1 rnave1 is offline
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Default 10-20-2018, 06:46 AM

I'll be replacing my rear main seal soon, hopefully this week. Is the tool still available to rent?
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(#29)
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victor247 victor247 is offline
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Default 10-22-2018, 10:32 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rnave1
I'll be replacing my rear main seal soon, hopefully this week. Is the tool still available to rent?
Yes it is. PM me.


2008 335i E93 Single turbo
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sportinsflying sportinsflying is offline
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Default 12-17-2018, 10:54 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Payam @ BMS
Very short tap screw. Screw into old seal then use pliers to pull. Lube new seal and use a big enough socket or cylinder to hammer in at once to go in evenly.
did you know the specific size socket you used?

TIA.

Woody


2009 E92 with BMS DCI, 2nd catalytic delete with a JB4
2016 F800GT
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(#31)
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slinkygn slinkygn is offline
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Default 12-28-2018, 05:57 PM

I own the tool, but am still having issues. Has anyone run into the issue of the extraction tool (the new version, where the whole thing screws in) just pulling out the rubber face/lip of the seal but never catching onto the body of the seal itself? It almost seems like the thing doesn't have anything sufficient to bite into to anymore, and can never engage well enough to pull the seal out. I can't figure out any other way to extract it, either, at least not without marring the mating surface on the block itself.

Last edited by slinkygn; 12-28-2018 at 07:03 PM.. Reason: clarity
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victor247 victor247 is offline
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Default 12-28-2018, 07:14 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by slinkygn
I own the tool, but am still having issues. Has anyone run into the issue of the extraction tool (the new version, where the whole thing screws in) just pulling out the rubber face/lip of the seal but never catching onto the body of the seal itself? It almost seems like the thing doesn't have anything sufficient to bite into to anymore, and can never engage well enough to pull the seal out. I can't figure out any other way to extract it, either, at least not without marring the mating surface on the block itself.
You might need to use the drywall screw method. Drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal, Then screw in a drywall screw into it and pull on it until the seal comes out. I would use a few screws at a time to make sure enough pressure is applied evenly, or it will just strip out the holes you made and you might be left with nothing to grab onto after.


2008 335i E93 Single turbo
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(#33)
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slinkygn slinkygn is offline
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Default 12-28-2018, 07:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by victor247
You might need to use the drywall screw method. Drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal, Then screw in a drywall screw into it and pull on it until the seal comes out. I would use a few screws at a time to make sure enough pressure is applied evenly, or it will just strip out the holes you made and you might be left with nothing to grab onto after.
I guess what I'm saying is, I don't know that there's any surface left to screw onto. I realize that's probably not super clear - I tried to take a few photos to see if it would help. If I'm missing something obvious (totally possible!), could you point out where I'd be inserting screws?
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(#34)
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slinkygn slinkygn is offline
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Default 02-16-2019, 11:19 AM

The rest of the sleeve finally came out -- 3 hours of prying at that sucker. It feels like the process marred some of the housing surface (not the crank itself, it's intact; just the "outer" surface that the seal sleeve was stuck against in the photos). Anybody know how much of a problem I might be looking at? Should I be filing/sanding down any mars or burrs, or is that likely to make it worse? And if so, how much -- are we talking baby-butt smooth or it'll leak, or as long as there aren't any big jags or peaks?
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victor247 victor247 is offline
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Default 02-23-2019, 06:32 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by slinkygn
The rest of the sleeve finally came out -- 3 hours of prying at that sucker. It feels like the process marred some of the housing surface (not the crank itself, it's intact; just the "outer" surface that the seal sleeve was stuck against in the photos). Anybody know how much of a problem I might be looking at? Should I be filing/sanding down any mars or burrs, or is that likely to make it worse? And if so, how much -- are we talking baby-butt smooth or it'll leak, or as long as there aren't any big jags or peaks?
Did you get this figured out?
I would imagine the outer part of the block is where you might have added some scratches/gashes in the aluminum as you were prying that seal out, I believe you should be fine, as long as it wasnt deep and not the full width of the seal.


2008 335i E93 Single turbo
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(#36)
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teggei2 teggei2 is offline
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Default 02-23-2019, 07:22 AM

I have this tool available for sale if anyone needs it. BMW N52 N53 N54 Oil Seal Remover - Baum B119180PLUS
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(#37)
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teggei2 teggei2 is offline
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Default 02-23-2019, 07:23 AM

I have this tool available for sale if anyone needs it.

BMW N52 N53 N54 Oil Seal Remover - Baum B119180PLUS
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(#38)
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codesx codesx is offline
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Default 02-27-2019, 04:28 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by teggei2
I have this tool available for sale if anyone needs it.

BMW N52 N53 N54 Oil Seal Remover - Baum B119180PLUS

Fire me a PM with the price?
I live in Ontario, Canada.




2008 335i Convertible, E93, N54, A/T (200,000+ km)
Wheels: 322 | Tires: R.275/35r18, F.245/40r18
TUNE: JB4/Trebila | 24 PSI | 100% Meth via dual CM5 | 94 Octane
BMS: JB4, Map 6 | WMI | 5" FMIC | OCC | DCI | Cowel Filters
RB: Inlets | PCV Valve
VRSF: DiPis | CP
HKS BOV
xHP Stage 3
NGK-97506 @ .020

Maintenance:
2018 - A/T Replaced | Ign Coils | Walnut Blast
2019 - Index 12 Injectors | VCG | OFHG & O-rings | TStat
2020 - OPG | Battery | IBS | Water Pump | Plugs | Alternator
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(#39)
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Edirty978 Edirty978 is offline
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Default 03-13-2019, 12:41 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by slinkygn
The rest of the sleeve finally came out -- 3 hours of prying at that sucker. It feels like the process marred some of the housing surface (not the crank itself, it's intact; just the "outer" surface that the seal sleeve was stuck against in the photos). Anybody know how much of a problem I might be looking at? Should I be filing/sanding down any mars or burrs, or is that likely to make it worse? And if so, how much -- are we talking baby-butt smooth or it'll leak, or as long as there aren't any big jags or peaks?

Is that serpentine belt lodged into the crank seal?? If so pull the oil pan and remove all the pieces and also check that your alternator bearing pulley is not siezed ... if its seized your belt will rip again
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RichiE60n54 RichiE60n54 is offline
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Default 05-18-2020, 05:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moos209
Where are you located?
Think I could rent that tool from you bro Iím located in El Paso Texas
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(#41)
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RichiE60n54 RichiE60n54 is offline
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Default 05-19-2020, 09:34 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by victor247
Sorry guys, For what ever reason I want getting the email notifications about the tool. Yes, I still have it and rent it out. My bad.
Still renting the tool
Out my man ? Iím in El Paso Texas
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(#42)
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JLBimmer's Avatar
JLBimmer JLBimmer is offline
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Default Specialty Tool Rental - 06-24-2020, 07:47 PM

There is a company out there that will rent you the kit for $63/week in US
BMW N40 N42 N45 N45T N46 N46T N52 N53 N54 N55 front crankshaft oil seal removal/installation kit - Specialty Auto Tool Rental


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