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Default 09-20-2020, 08:40 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by VipinLJ
Posting a log in 3rd for review. Any insight will be appreciated.
I'm also posting a log of a WOT and LC run from yesterday. I noticed a power drop when shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd at the red line. Does the log show why that happened? There was a slight jerk when shifting and the car felt like it was cutting/losing power right when it shifted.
Late to the party but the log appears normal to me. Some throttle trimming down low to regulate boost to target but not so much that manifold boost ever drops below target.
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Default 09-20-2020, 09:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Late to the party but the log appears normal to me. Some throttle trimming down low to regulate boost to target but not so much that manifold boost ever drops below target.
Thank you very much. As long as there are no problems, I'm not worried. Car puts out lovely numbers. Best I got using dragy was 13.15s@104.78mph. Worst was 13.42s@103.5mph but that was with 4 full grown adults on board, shopping in the trunk and a 3/4 tank of fuel :D


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Default 09-20-2020, 08:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by VipinLJ
The first file (xxxxxxx_newlog.csv) is a logging run without TC, starting at below 2000 RPMs in 3rd gear, shifting to 4th at the red line. Or are you asking for a new log from 2500 RPMs? If so, yes. I'll try getting one today.

My car doesn't downshift when in manual mode, even when the downshift button under the pedal is pressed. It only does that in S or D mode.

Also, how do I reduce boost target at low RPMS? I use the stock settings from the first page of the firmware thread. I don't know how to edit anything else.
you're using map 6 right ?
instead of using 4.5psi across the range, lower it to 0 from 1000-2500rpm, 3000rpm 2psi, 3500rpm 3psi, 4000 rpm 4.5psi or something like that

sure you will lose some additive boost at low RPM but honestly you shouldn't be using anything below 2500rpm anyways, it's not good for the engine, you're giving up longevity,reliability,wear&tear for a minute amount of performance
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Default 09-20-2020, 08:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KnifeEdge87
you're using map 6 right ?
instead of using 4.5psi across the range, lower it to 0 from 1000-2500rpm, 3000rpm 2psi, 3500rpm 3psi, 4000 rpm 4.5psi or something like that

sure you will lose some additive boost at low RPM but honestly you shouldn't be using anything below 2500rpm anyways, it's not good for the engine, you're giving up longevity,reliability,wear&tear for a minute amount of performance
No sir. Map 3 with roughly E30 (I'm guessing its anywhere between E22 and E30 max since I don't know the exact ethanol content of the E85 fuel at the pump here). Should I be using map 6?


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Default 09-21-2020, 03:22 PM

It feels as if the car has lost some punch. The car used to bang out shifts till v17. With v18, shifts have become tame. 0-60 has become worse (especially when going WOT) but the 0-100 hasn't become that bad. The quarter mile times have fallen to 13.35-13.4s (used to be 13.15-13.25 on v17) and trap speeds have dropped by 1-1.5mph. While that is probably better for the engine, I am contemplating going back to v17.

Log below with the latest firmware. Started at around 2.2k RPMS.
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File Type: csv P58_M3_R1_200921_log.csv (10.8 KB, 13 views)


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Default 09-21-2020, 06:03 PM

Boost1 and Boost2 tracking quite closely that's good

You still have a bit of throttle closure at the start of your run and you see timing drop to 0 (not good), so 6PSI additive is a bit too much at sub 3000 rpm. Ideally you shouldn't see retardation beyond like 3 degrees.

I think you should try custom map 6 with additive boost target of

1000 @ 0
1500 @ 0
2000 @ 0
2500 @ 0
3000 @ 4
3500 & onwards @ 6

given your timing is quite good you might even be able to push a bit more on the top end, maybe from 4500 to 6500 you can do +6.5 or +7

map 3 is not flat +6 contrary to what it's namesake is (flat +6psi) because it limits the additive boost at low rpm for safety, at 3000 it's target is actually 5 ish

It's a bit nitpicky and honestly if you just leave it as is you're not gonna experience anything really negative especially since you mentioned you don't do hard launches and stuff often.
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VipinLJ VipinLJ is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 07:25 PM

I actually don't. Most of the time I drive like a grandma since I have my wife and baby with me. I only go WOT or do LC runs when I get a new firmware to see how different times are from the previous one.

But yes. I'll try the numbers you've mentioned for a custom map 6 and see how it feels


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Default 09-24-2020, 12:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KnifeEdge87
Boost1 and Boost2 tracking quite closely that's good

You still have a bit of throttle closure at the start of your run and you see timing drop to 0 (not good), so 6PSI additive is a bit too much at sub 3000 rpm. Ideally you shouldn't see retardation beyond like 3 degrees.

I think you should try custom map 6 with additive boost target of

1000 @ 0
1500 @ 0
2000 @ 0
2500 @ 0
3000 @ 4
3500 & onwards @ 6

given your timing is quite good you might even be able to push a bit more on the top end, maybe from 4500 to 6500 you can do +6.5 or +7

map 3 is not flat +6 contrary to what it's namesake is (flat +6psi) because it limits the additive boost at low rpm for safety, at 3000 it's target is actually 5 ish

It's a bit nitpicky and honestly if you just leave it as is you're not gonna experience anything really negative especially since you mentioned you don't do hard launches and stuff often.
I got a couple of logs with map 6. I'll post them beneath for you to review. Car has become very linear. Feels like it lost its punch. I also scanned my car today after a long time and got a lot of error codes but it's all for the same thing (TMAP sensor short circuit or something). No idea how it why it happened. I checked the connection. Everything was in tight as usual. I've cleared it. Let me see if it reappears.

Codes are:

108004
108005
108B0A
121001 - TMAP sensor, short circuit to B+
Attached Files
File Type: csv P58_M6_R1_200924_log1.csv (9.3 KB, 15 views)
File Type: csv P58_M6_R1_200924_log2.csv (14.6 KB, 14 views)


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Default 09-24-2020, 01:33 PM

Data side looks fine. Maybe OBDII cable loose? That can trigger faults sometimes.
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VipinLJ VipinLJ is offline
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Default 09-24-2020, 04:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Data side looks fine. Maybe OBDII cable loose? That can trigger faults sometimes.
Thank you very much for the reply!

That was a custom map 6 I tried. But car felt slower (almost as if it was stock) so I think I'll be going back to map 3.

I also wonder if the errors popped up because I flashed v18? I haven't removed the obd cable or the sensor plugs since I installed it a while back. I had v17 and no errors except for the usual wheel speed sensor ones. I checked for errors today for the first time after updating the JB4 with v18 and found all these sensor codes. Car drives fine. No CEL or errors on the idrive.

I unplugged and replugged all the wires just now. Let me see if they reappear. If it does, I'll flash back to v17 and see how it is.


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Default 09-24-2020, 11:00 PM

Try

1000 @ 0
1500 @ 0
2000 @ 2
2500 @ 4
3000 @ 5.5
3500 to 5500 @ 7
6000 @ 6
6500 @ 5.5

Also your butt dyno is deceiving you

Your acceleration is almost the same

I'm guessing you didn't do it on the same road so even a slight incline or headwind could account for the miniscule difference from your previous logs

The lower boost targets I have you at the bottom end didn't really help the timing much so I think the timing pull is just related to going from minimal pedal to maximal pedal, the timing gain is still strong so I think you can push the additive boost to 7psi and log again to see if you can push farther

Your dme bt at the low rpm range is lower in map6 but it could be because you started your run at a higher engine rpm compared to your map 3 when you started at like 500to1000rpm lower (when you suddenly go full gas your computer tries to be safe first and progressively eases a more aggressive state)

From now on try to start your logs from the same rpm, same stretch of road (and and direction) to get companies numbers
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VipinLJ VipinLJ is offline
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Default 09-25-2020, 11:58 AM

Ah ok. I'll do the run on the same roads then. And start at around 2400rpms from now on.
And regarding the acceleration. Those are from dragy. My times have gone up (13.57s quarter mile compared to 13.3s usually (best was 13.15s)). I do quarter mile and 0-60mph/0-100mph tests on the same abandoned road in the same direction. Variability there is weather (though temps have been kinda consistent the past few days).
I'll try the updated numbers you've sent and get a log from that as well


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Default 09-25-2020, 10:09 PM

I'm comparing your timestamps vs rpm mm your logs within a single gear between your map 3 and map 6 settings

The time diff is minimal but is slightly worse in map 6 which could be because you started your map 3 runs at a lower rpm, thus at the same rpm, your M3 run already had the turbo spoiled up whereas your map6 run the turbo was still building speed, and lower boost target at the low rpm range (which is the whole point, your timing was too low so we tried to back off the boost for safety... But given the timing drop didn't really improve Btw M3 and m6, AND the timing comes back very quickly as rpms rise, it appears the timing pull is more associated with sudden increase in driver demand i.e suddenly going full power, thus we can add back the boost target at the bottom end.

You might want to try the above custom additive boost settings or you might want to try an absolute target setting for a bit more consistency.

This should be well within what you're car can do given the numbers you've posted already.


0 @ 8
1.0 @ 11
1.5 @ 14
2.0 @ 15.5
2.5 @ 16
3.0 @ 16.5
3.5 @ 17.5
4.0 @ 18
4.5 @ 19
5.0 @ 19
5.5 @ 19
6.0 @ 18
6.5 @ 14
7.0 @ 12

You don't need to change a setting to select absolute target or additive, the jb4 software will "know" it is an absolute target.


If possible try to do your log on this map 6 and then let your car cool down a bit and do another map 3 for comparison. If it's on an abandoned road you shouldn't have any problem getting consistent repeated runs.

Don't worry about testing 0-60 or 1/4 mile data for comparison for now, that comes later

Single gear pulls from mid 2000s to refine are analogous to don't dyno pulls. When you tune an engine you don't do it by fiddling with it at the dragstrip, you do it on a rolling road, that's what we are trying to emulate right now.

Last but not least, let your car cool down a bit between runs. Don't a single 3rd gear pull from 2400 to refine won't build up a tremendous amount of heat but you should still give it a minute or two of slow (30mph)driving for the radiators to bring temps back in.

Also, more likely than not, unless you live in a very cold place, your first run of the day is almost certainly going to be better than all the others so if you want to be extra consistent you'll toss the first run out.
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VipinLJ VipinLJ is offline
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Default 09-26-2020, 08:43 AM

Ah yes sir. I get what you're saying.

It's kinda cold today. Let me see if I can get a log in with the numbers you've posted Thank you very much for all the insight!


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VipinLJ VipinLJ is offline
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Default 09-28-2020, 04:11 PM

I did a log run in map 6 with the settings you gave me. I'll attach it below. Take a look at it when you can and let me know if that's ok?
Attached Files
File Type: csv P58_M6_R1_200928_map6log.csv (8.5 KB, 11 views)


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Default 09-28-2020, 04:46 PM

Ign timing, trims and afr looks fine but throttle never really opens up so your engine actual boost isn’t getting on target. You would definitely benefit from an EWG but in the meantime going back to the custom additive may give better results with amended settings


1000 @ 4
1500 @ 4
2000 @ 5
2500 @ 6
3000 @ 6.5
3500 to 5500 @ 7
6000 @ 6.5
6500 @ 5.5
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VipinLJ VipinLJ is offline
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Default 09-28-2020, 05:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KnifeEdge87
Ign timing, trims and afr looks fine but throttle never really opens up so your engine actual boost isnít getting on target. You would definitely benefit from an EWG but in the meantime going back to the custom additive may give better results with amended settings


1000 @ 4
1500 @ 4
2000 @ 5
2500 @ 6
3000 @ 6.5
3500 to 5500 @ 7
6000 @ 6.5
6500 @ 5.5
Gotcha. Only reason I'm hesitant to get an EWG cable is the install. Apparently I have to move the metal heat shield around the turbo and stuff to connect it? And yes. Boost seems low with the last revision. I did look at the graph and notice it didn't hit anywhere close to what it usually did/does in other maps.


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Default 09-28-2020, 05:38 PM

So the reason for that is the boost in the charge pipe is very close to our exceeding the dmebt

The jb4 should be underreporting boost 1 to the dme so that the dme keeps the Watergate shut and throttle open

For whatever reason that isn't happening

It could be a matter of the dme is still "learning " adapting. Drive around with Map 6 for a bit and try a couple back to back (with cooling) runs next time and see if it does better
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Default 09-29-2020, 07:39 PM

Oh ok. I took those logs right after uploading onto the app and then went back to map 3 to get your inputs before continuing further. I'll drive around on map 6 a bit more and get a log and post here.

I appreciate all the help!!! Thank you very much!


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Default 09-29-2020, 10:01 PM

Not a biggie, but I think it goes without saying, remember to let ur engine warm up

170f is a bit on the low side, not dangerous mind you but given your other logs all had them at 200-220f its certainly not the case that you're like living in alaska or something

your timings on the absolute target map6 were awesome, I think just put some more miles on with the absolute or additive map (new one from post #41) and let's see how it goes.


i think you'll definitely benefit from the EWG as well but understand your concerns about doing it urself.
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Default 09-30-2020, 07:29 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KnifeEdge87
Not a biggie, but I think it goes without saying, remember to let ur engine warm up

170f is a bit on the low side, not dangerous mind you but given your other logs all had them at 200-220f its certainly not the case that you're like living in alaska or something

your timings on the absolute target map6 were awesome, I think just put some more miles on with the absolute or additive map (new one from post #41) and let's see how it goes.


i think you'll definitely benefit from the EWG as well but understand your concerns about doing it urself.
Yes sir. I did wait for it to go above 165F before getting a log.
I think I'll be running the map 6 settings you sent as a daily and when I go to a drag strip (whenever that is), I'll probably use map 3. Map 6 feels like it isn't stressing the engine much, which makes me feel comfortable. It's been raining here which is why I haven't gotten another log yesterday or today.


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Default 10-01-2020, 01:22 AM

Looking forward to your results
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Default 10-06-2020, 07:33 PM

I got some logs after flashing v15. I wanted to see if there was a noticeable difference between the old firmware vs v18. I remember v11 being really punchy. V15 shows performance figures similar to v18.

Logs below. In the first log (log1), I hit the red line and forgot to shift up for a second. Second log should be better.
Attached Files
File Type: csv P58_M3_R1_201006_log1.csv (10.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: csv P58_M3_R1_201006_log2.csv (10.1 KB, 9 views)


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Default 10-06-2020, 07:55 PM

Looking good man

Try the map 6 when you have time for bit more on the top end
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Default 10-06-2020, 08:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KnifeEdge87
Looking good man

Try the map 6 when you have time for bit more on the top end
Yes sir. I will do that asap and post logs in a few days. I also ordered a K&N drop in filter just for giggles. Should get that day after. Thought I'd post logs with that to see if it does any good. Also flashed the latest v18 update. Let's see how map 6 does. I'll also try and get a map 4 log IF I remember to run map 4.


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