JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion
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Cole17171 Cole17171 is offline
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Default Mac Solenoid - 02-09-2022, 02:33 PM

Hello I have a Single Turbo 2007 335i and the mac solenoid is not making niose when I push the gas and I know there are a lot of threads on here about that already. When looking though them though most of them are having problems with theirs clicking when pressing the pedal.

Mine was working well but recently I blew a fuse for somethign else and then fixed that but a few days later I noticed my mac soleniod was no longer making niose when I pressed the gas and I am only able to make around 11psi.

I read somewhere that it could be that it blew the fuse, but nobody has said what fuse. I want to see if I just blew a fuse because if so that would be an easy fix but i Don't know what fuse to check.

If nobody knows then tommorow when I get back from class I will test the power to the plug like burger did in their video and will add to this later this week/weekend.

If yall think it could be something else let me know and thank you.
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 02-09-2022, 11:46 PM

I have experienced the same thing at one point.
I literally pulled every single fuse and inspected every single one in the fuse panel and did not find a single one that was blown.

However, in my situation, the MAC solenoid wires were touching/making contact somehow through their solder connection/heat shrink which eventually shorted both my JB4 board and my MAC solenoid. So I had to order and replace a new JB4 board and MAC Solenoid. Not fun.

You didn't specify but I assume when you were doing your testing, you must set the JB4 to Map 1 to perform the gas pedal test.

If no clicking from the MAC, you can perform a continuity test with a volt meter to see if the MAC is being shorted with your wiring setup. If it is being shorted, you will more than likely have to replace the MAC solenoid.
You can always check the MAC solenoid if it's disconnected from the JB4 board with a simple 9v battery. Make contact with the + and - on the 9v battery across the two contacts on the solenoid, it should click on/off as you cycle power from the battery. If no clicking from the MAC, more than likely it will need to be replaced.

If no issues with the MAC solenoid and its wiring, then looking for that fuse in the fuse panel is worth a shot. Just don't forget to put back the fuses you're pulling in the exact spot you pull them from or you'll be sorry.....

If after replacing the MAC solenoid and still no clicking from the foot pedal test, then it's a possibility that the JB4 board is fried and you will need to order a replacement board.

Start with the cheapest thing and work yourself up, you'll eventually figure it out. Good luck!
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Cole17171 Cole17171 is offline
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Default 02-10-2022, 11:40 AM

I actually had bought a new Mac solenoid and tried it today and that seemed to be the problem with that but now it isn’t building boost correctly the wastegate is at 10 pounds and on map 1 it runs 8~psi which is normal but on map 2/3 it is only running 11/12 psi so I will have to log and see what is different from my previous logs thank you for the help
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 02-10-2022, 01:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole17171
I actually had bought a new Mac solenoid and tried it today and that seemed to be the problem with that but now it isnít building boost correctly the wastegate is at 10 pounds and on map 1 it runs 8~psi which is normal but on map 2/3 it is only running 11/12 psi so I will have to log and see what is different from my previous logs thank you for the help
Awesome! That was an easy fix.

Just from what you're describing, you may have a boost leak somewhere. If I had to guess, it may be to your Wastegates. It's best to perform a boost leak check, with a compressor, like Jake did in his video:

How To Test for Boost Leaks on a Turbo Vehicle (750HP BMW) - YouTube

You'd be surprised how many leaks you can find throughout the entire intake system. Do this test and let us know your results. More than likely this is your issue. If not, then it may still be electronically or the tune you're using, but do this first. Trust me, it will save you headaches especially when you want to turn up the boost in the future.
I have a Doc Race single turbo kit and I skipped this crucial step. Later I found that I was having an air leak at my Tial Wastegate connector which wasn't allowing me to build up the boost I was requesting. I found out the hard way that I should've put some red Loctite on the threads of the connectors going to the wastegates.
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Cole17171 Cole17171 is offline
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Default 02-11-2022, 03:14 PM

Okay cool thank you for the video It might take me a little to do the test as I have a funeral to attend next week but I did get to take a short log but it does show that it stops around 12 psi. Most of it looks the same as my 17-20 psi logs so I will have to check for boost leaks but the wastegate is opening itself at 12 psi. Im new to having a turbo car so im sorry if this is a dumb question but could a boost leak have an affect on the wastegate opening?

and thank you again for the help so far
Attached Files
File Type: csv Log 6.csv (60.2 KB, 46 views)
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 02-11-2022, 06:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole17171
Okay cool thank you for the video It might take me a little to do the test as I have a funeral to attend next week but I did get to take a short log but it does show that it stops around 12 psi. Most of it looks the same as my 17-20 psi logs so I will have to check for boost leaks but the wastegate is opening itself at 12 psi. Im new to having a turbo car so im sorry if this is a dumb question but could a boost leak have an affect on the wastegate opening?

and thank you again for the help so far
Thanks for posting the CSV log, now we can see more of what's going on.

1st before we begin, for your next reply, tell us what mods you have done to your car i.e. type of fueling you're using, turbo kit you've installed, MHD, intercooler, port injection, meth, 3.5bar TMAP, transmission, etc..
We literally don't have a clue of what you have. This can help us figure out a solution to your issue(s).

2nd DO NOT log your car in MAP 3 (for now). The log you posted is a MAP 3 map targeting 20PSI, you're not there, yet.

3rd watch this video from start to finish:
ALL BOOST CONTROL setups EXPLAINED - Boost School #3 - YouTube

This video will educate you on how boost controllers and boost solenoids and waste gates work. Pay close attention to the 11:53 time in the video, that's what our N54 single turbo setups use. If yours is setup correctly that is.

To answer your question, a boost leak can have a significant affect on how a waste gate opens/closes, assuming a boost leak is present from the turbo reference line, MAC Solenoid/Mac lines, plumbing to the top and bottom of the waste gates. Your plumbing/vacuum lines to the waste gates could also be incorrect.
You have to remember, with the MAC Solenoid setup we use on our cars, the turbo boost reference line coming from the turbo itself is tee'd to the bottom port of the waste gate(s) and as well as to the top port of the waste gate(s) with the MAC Solenoid in line to either bleed off boost reference pressure to allow the waste gates to open or to allow boost reference pressure to pass to assist the spring/diaphragm inside the top portion of the waste gate(s) to keep the waste gate(s) closed so your turbo can spool and make boost.

If there are leaks anywhere on this side of your setup, you will definitely have an inaccurate boost reference to the waste gates and the MAC Solenoid and they may not respond or open/close as needed to make boost. Hope that makes sense.

4th Do you have port injection? If you do not, you don't need to enable Fuel Enrichment.
Set your JB4 user adjustment settings with these settings below:

Boost Safety: 17.5
PID Gain: 25
Meth Signal Scaling: 0 (unless you're actually using meth injection)
FF/Wastgate Adaption: 20 (your FF is at 60 ) It will "learn up" from there.
Fuel Bias: All 0's (unless you're using port injection, then they should be all set at 50)
Duty Bias: All 50's
Fuel OL: 10 (unless you're using port injection, then it's 0)

All of your other user adjustment settings appear to be ok.

After checking for any boost leaks, confirming your plumbing is correct to the waste gate(s) and making the necessary changes to your JB4 settings, post a 3rd gear pull to redline using Map1 and Map2 and let us take a look at the CSV logs.

*Just a heads up from your logs, your Fuel Trims are getting kinda high, keep an eye on those*
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Cole17171 Cole17171 is offline
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Default 02-14-2022, 08:28 PM

So I have a Single turbo kit from speedtech and it is a bottom mount with a 6766 precesion turbo. I have it tuned using the files from jb4/terry and I did a backendflash with MHD from them too. I don't have too much else except the guy before me did a low pressure fuel pump upgrade but to be honest I don't know what he put in, all he said was that it was better than factory and when I got the car it was good enough for it to run e85 on about 22psi. Now it is just 93 oct, I forgot how it works but the car came with 11 and 9 sized injectors so we switched them all to 11s and changed the coils. I also installed a 7.5vrsf intercooler. IT is a 6mt with a 600hp or so clutch installed after the last one went out. I do have a 3.5 tmap sensor and it is a 3 port mac solieniod from burger as well.That is about all I can think of for modifications and no it is not running port injection (thankyou so much for telling me about the stuff I had chosen for that, I will change that right now.) I will change the rest of the setting as well.
Also what would I do to fix my fuel trims is there something I can do in jb4 or would it be an upgraded fuel pump?
Thank you so much for all of this information I will be busy this week but should be able to at least take some logs at some point and will post them when I do.
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Cole17171 Cole17171 is offline
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Default 02-21-2022, 05:54 PM

Ok so ive had a busy week but i am back home and thought of some stuff i forgot to include. ABout a month ago now before it was having boost issues it was running 20 psi/map 3 great and having no problems, I also have a 12 pound wategate spring in at the moment. Also last post I said it ran 22psi on e85 and that was on stock twin turbos before I did the conversion and it was also a 50/50 mix not just e85.

I have a new log and I noticed that it only boosts to about 12ish psi everytime, would a boost leak be that precise or would it have different ranges because i have done about 20 pulls over the last week and they were all reading about the same psi? This is my first boost leak so i don't know if they vary or are close to the same everytime and sorry i was unable to log when I did those runs so i dont have those pulls.

I have still been unable to do the leak test as I just got back tonight, but I hope to conduct that test sometime this week and will post if that was the problem or if we found no leaks.
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File Type: csv Log 7.csv (50.5 KB, 38 views)
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 02-21-2022, 11:22 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole17171
Ok so ive had a busy week but i am back home and thought of some stuff i forgot to include. ABout a month ago now before it was having boost issues it was running 20 psi/map 3 great and having no problems, I also have a 12 pound wategate spring in at the moment. Also last post I said it ran 22psi on e85 and that was on stock twin turbos before I did the conversion and it was also a 50/50 mix not just e85.

I have a new log and I noticed that it only boosts to about 12ish psi everytime, would a boost leak be that precise or would it have different ranges because i have done about 20 pulls over the last week and they were all reading about the same psi? This is my first boost leak so i don't know if they vary or are close to the same everytime and sorry i was unable to log when I did those runs so i dont have those pulls.

I have still been unable to do the leak test as I just got back tonight, but I hope to conduct that test sometime this week and will post if that was the problem or if we found no leaks.
Yeah, from what you're describing, it sounds like a a classic boost reference leak, most likely the lines going to your waste gate(s).

You can also confirm this from your logs from when this issue started happening. If Map 1, Map 2 and Map 3 are all reading ~12psi of boost (which matches your spring rate of your waste gate(s)) then it's more than likely that's your problem. You have an air leak somewhere.

Do the leak test and report back.
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Cole17171 Cole17171 is offline
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Default 04-20-2022, 11:06 AM

Okay I am sorry it took me so long to reply. I did the leak test (I did do a different one than the one you sent me because I din't have those tools) and found nothing and kept looking at different possibilities and I gave up for a few weeks. When I did leak test I was alsways looking on the passenger side but the other day as I was driving I heard somthing that sounded like flapping when I got to a speed of about 70and when I got home and looked I was dumbfounded when I saw the chargepipe on the drivers side was not connected properly. I reconnected it and the car is running fine now. I honestly cant believe I missed this for so long and am a little mad at myself but i am very glad that it was at least something simple and free. Thank you for your help I am now running about 17-19 psi smoothly. We will see how long it is until the next thing breaks haha
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Antonio1212e Antonio1212e is offline
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Default 07-04-2022, 06:25 AM

Good post
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