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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
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Default 03-16-2015, 01:12 PM

Updated the maps.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 03-16-2015, 01:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenjermen
with port injection do you still connect the stage 3 pump to the jb4, also if eventually one goes passive with the jb4 will it still control the stage 3?
Yes, you'll still need to trigger the secondary with the JB4.

When running the JB4 in passive mode, I'm not sure if it will still trigger the secondary, Terry will have to answer that. If it doesn't, you'll want to trigger it off a boost (Hobb's) switch.

Steve



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Video of our Stage 2 LPFP upgrade installation.

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(#278)
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Default 03-16-2015, 01:36 PM

Passive mode still triggers the pump.


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Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 03-16-2015, 03:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amgturbo2012
In map mode make sure your on map A. You should see changes made once you scroll over to 12 or so PSI.
yeah on map mode , A than i used write to ECU .


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viperware viperware is offline
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Default 03-16-2015, 05:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Updated the maps.
I just did a couple of pulls with the new map for the stock sensor. I'm going to take a couple of logs later to find out more, but I feel like there are some hesitations at 4700rpm and 5200 rpm.


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Default 03-17-2015, 12:05 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by slicksilver
Dont know if this has been covered already but this kit is basically like the Motiv level 1 kit, and to upgrade to motiv level 2 kit for those pushing north of 700whp with 100% E85, you need a kit from Fuel it for the regulator, return line and other things needed as well as a stage 3 fuel pump. This sealed the deal for me to go with Terry's kit for one basic reason, TUNING SUPPORT! and JB4 Integration. I like it because you can buy T's kit now and then later upgrade to the equivalent of the Motiv Level 2 kit and only pay for the additional parts needed. I will be buying this PI kit very soon
This is completely false information. Our kit is the only fully modular system on the market. Please be more careful in spreading misinformation. There is more misinformation in this post but I will let others touch on that. Everything from tuning to where parts are coming from.


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Default 03-17-2015, 12:10 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by viperware
I just did a couple of pulls with the new map for the stock sensor. I'm going to take a couple of logs later to find out more, but I feel like there are some hesitations at 4700rpm and 5200 rpm.
I don't think I revised the normal TMAP maps. Definitely log the problem area though.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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viperware viperware is offline
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Default 03-17-2015, 08:45 PM

Thanks Terry!

Turns out the accessport flashed a stock map when i uninstalled it rather than the E85 flash that was loaded on the car when I installed the accessport. I thought it would backup the modified flash and it did not. It is definitely responding now!



holy crap!


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Default 03-18-2015, 06:59 AM

I'm loving the new PI kit. My HPFP is weak, and struggles to run E40. Below are two logs, a before and after log - everything is identical (tune, same tank, no meth, etc.) except for the PI kit. You can clearly see this removed my HPFP limitation.

Overall the kit operates seamlessly - you can't even tell that the PI kicks in unless you look at the logs. The PI table starts at 2000rpm and 9.5psi for the factory map. My only minor criticism is that there is a slight delay when you let off the throttle where it continues to pull for a hair longer. It's not long enough to be an issue, more of a minor annoyance since it lets off a bit more abruptly when it does respond. This is probably due to the fact that the AIC looks at boost pressure, and the boost pressure has a slight lag behind the throttle. Overall I'm very pleased with this product - it is a straight forward installation and setup - highly recommended.

First log is with PI, second is without. Couldn't change the colors on my phone so sorry about the two red lines.
Attached Images
  


2008 E90 335i 6MT: RBs, Inlets, FBO, JB4 G5 ISO, BMS E85 flash, BMS Port Injection, Walbro 450 LPFP, 335is clutch
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oldsch00lo3 oldsch00lo3 is offline
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Default 03-20-2015, 01:22 PM

I have just installed FFTEC's LPFP upgrade "VFF In Line Low Pressure Fuel Pump Upgrade", is this going to be sufficient for this kit?
Link here:http://www.fftec.com/item/1536/VFF_I...p_Upgrade.html

Thanks
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Default 03-21-2015, 05:06 PM

Hey all,

Some of you are using a Hobb's switch to trigger the secondary on your Stage 3 LPFP because you are running 2-step or some other configuration.

Here is a pic of how we typically install the Hobb's switch for the secondary. For illustration purposes we installed it on top side of the CP, however in our typical installation with the BMS CP, we install it on the underside so it is completely stealth.

Name:  Hobb's switch.jpg
Views: 2427
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Video of our Stage 2 LPFP upgrade installation.

BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways.

Last edited by Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It!; 03-21-2015 at 05:18 PM..
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Default 03-21-2015, 11:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ
Hey all,

Some of you are using a Hobb's switch to trigger the secondary on your Stage 3 LPFP because you are running 2-step or some other configuration.

Here is a pic of how we typically install the Hobb's switch for the secondary. For illustration purposes we installed it on top side of the CP, however in our typical installation with the BMS CP, we install it on the underside so it is completely stealth.

Attachment 28733
So you're running your hobbs switch from the meth bung?


fuel injection is cool, but i'd rather be blown!
537.75HP 540.63TQ
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Default 03-21-2015, 11:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmsportzn135i
So you're running your hobbs switch from the meth bung?
Exactly...since most running PI (or in our case PTBI) don't run meth, it's a great place to mount the hobb's switch, especially when it's totally hidden.



Click on our banner to visit our website!
Video of our Stage 2 LPFP upgrade installation.

BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways.
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Default 03-22-2015, 05:15 AM

So do we think the Hobbs switch is the better way to go? Or the use of the jb4 for activation?
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Default 03-22-2015, 11:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bme30
So do we think the Hobbs switch is the better way to go? Or the use of the jb4 for activation?
I'd use the JB4 if that option is available to you.



Click on our banner to visit our website!
Video of our Stage 2 LPFP upgrade installation.

BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways.
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mjott mjott is offline
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Default Installation review/tips - 03-23-2015, 02:16 PM

I’m fairly handy but no expert, installing all of my other mods besides the RB turbos, and thought I’d pass on some tips from my install experience. This is the first fuel line project that I’ve done besides the LPFP – be extra careful since fuel leaks and a hot engine do not mix well. Perform this at your own risk, these are simply recommendations and I am not liable for any damage.

Overall, I’d suggest breaking up the install into a few separate steps, leaving some time in case you run into any issues. The BMS/CP-E directions are broken up similarly into assembly and install. Pretty much all of their tips/directions were followed to a T and were very helpful. This is just some extra info that might have saved me some time/frustration along the way.

------Fuel rail assembly – (~1 hour)
*Straight forward directions at beginning of this thread in .zip. This can all be completed without your car nearby, with a beer on the coffee table if you like/dare.
*Do this 24 hours before install so that any thread sealant can set up – especially the 1/8” NPT
*All of the fuel fittings are -6AN, -8AN, or quick connect fittings except the 1/8” NPT plug. Be sure to tighten the NPT plug fully and use an appropriate thread sealant. I tightened as much as possible with the Allen wrench, and applied Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant #59214 from Autozone down the street (I went with this since thread tape has potential to plug injectors). I had a leak on this 1/8” NPT initially after everything was installed, which required me to remove everything to fix the leak.
*Have some oil handy to put a light coating on the o-rings
*I did not use AN wrenches for the install like it was recommended. Just don’t get carried away with steel wrenches and you should be fine.

------Fuel rail install – (1 hour removal, 2.5 hours install)
*Straight forward directions at beginning of this thread. Recommend doing this after engine has cooled overnight. Fuel fuse on ‘08 e90 was 20Amp #70 (picture attached – credit SteveAZ for picture)
*Google removing BMW N54 intake manifold if you need directions getting manifold off.
*I would recommend alligator clamp to pinch low pressure fuel line and plenty of rags/paper towels
*A 5/16” quick disconnect fuel tool can be used to remove the quick connect fitting, however this tool didn’t work for me. I simply pulled the plastic locking fitting apart with a needle-nose pliars and removed the fitting.
*For whatever reason, the quick connect fitting would not lock onto the existing fuel rail for me. I found that I damaged the two inner o-rings on this part which could have caused my issues, so have patience and get a good initial alignment. Eventually after fighting this for hours I just ordered a replacement fitting from Amazon (Russell fitting), and it snapped in place fairly easily.
*The fuel rail is somewhat of a tight fit, so before you wedge the fuel rail in place, I would agree with the recommendation to chase all of the tapped holes on the head to make life easier when you go to install the hold down bolts. Also, the only fitment complaint I would have is that the hose connection to the fuel rail is right up against the plastic rear OEM turbo inlet which is a pain (not sure if they could shorten the fuel rail to allow more room?).
*Make sure that all of the manifold-to-head o-rings are in place since they can fall out. Lift the rail up a half inch and feel to make sure each one is still there before bolting up.
*Once all of the fuel lines are tightened up and before you reinstall everything, clean up any fuel, remove the alligator clamp and install your LPFP fuse and connect your battery to pressure up the system for a leak check (be sure you DO NOT crank the engine over at this point). Look for leaks now since this is the easiest time to fix. If leak-free, move on to reinstalling everything.
*I would install the wiring harness into the injectors prior to installing the intake manifold while it is easy to access. Also, fish the injector wires through the car’s DME box grommet (and cut a small slit for it to exit). I did not do this so I had to cut the grommet to insert the wiring so that the DME lid would seat properly.
*Once everything is installed, make sure there are no leaks or residual fuel, and start the engine. I would let it heat up by idling and look/smell for leaks. The fuel rail does heat up quite a bit which could trigger a new leak potentially. I would not recommend a test drive until you are sure it is leak free in your garage with a fire extinguisher nearby.

------Wiring harness install – (~30 minutes)
*See page 1 of thread
*For clarity, green wire goes in at red circle #1 in picture below.
*More pictures below
*I ran the ground wire to the ground clamp in the engine bay with a short wire extension. M8 screw was used to tighten the wire to the ground clamp.
*AIC fit easily inside DME without rearranging anything even with the JB4 – maybe I got lucky.
*I recommend to fish injector wiring through DME port prior to connect injectors. I ended up cutting the middle grommet to install instead of redoing everything.

------Program AIC1 – (~30 minutes)
* Sabrent USB 2.0 to Serial (9-Pin) DB-9 RS-232 Converter Cable (CB-DB9P) will be needed (JB4 won’t work). Purchased for $9.99 on amazon.
*Take a look at the “data sheet” and “Instructions” .pdf files at https://splitsec.com/product/aic1-a1...or-controller/ . This info helps.
*AIC cover needs to be removed to plug in cable (picture below)
*This took me more like 2 hours to complete due to connection issues and the program not responding
*Old Windows XP laptop did not work
*Windows 7 Intel Celeron Laptop did not work at first
*Driver CD with cable wasn’t helpful, ultimately the automatic driver install when the cable was plugged into the laptop was what worked on my windows 7 laptop. Note the COM port when it goes to auto-install the driver (COM1-8 can be used I think)
*The R4 program would freeze when I would attempt to connect. I ended up changing the COM port from COM4 to COM1 in the advanced settings on my laptop and that was what worked for me for whatever reason.
*Ignition on, but engine off to program the AIC1.

Nothing too complex. Good instructions from the manufacturers. Great job by Terry and company making the interface a simple plug and play setup. Can’t beat having wiring and fuel maps ready to install. Requires some patience and small hands to work some things into tight spots.
Attached Images
          


2008 E90 335i 6MT: RBs, Inlets, FBO, JB4 G5 ISO, BMS E85 flash, BMS Port Injection, Walbro 450 LPFP, 335is clutch
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Dmac @ BMS/DMD's Avatar
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Default 03-23-2015, 02:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjott
I’m fairly handy but no expert, installing all of my other mods besides the RB turbos, and thought I’d pass on some tips from my install experience. This is the first fuel line project that I’ve done besides the LPFP – be extra careful since fuel leaks and a hot engine do not mix well. Perform this at your own risk, these are simply recommendations and I am not liable for any damage.

Overall, I’d suggest breaking up the install into a few separate steps, leaving some time in case you run into any issues. The BMS/CP-E directions are broken up similarly into assembly and install. Pretty much all of their tips/directions were followed to a T and were very helpful. This is just some extra info that might have saved me some time/frustration along the way.

------Fuel rail assembly – (~1 hour)
*Straight forward directions at beginning of this thread in .zip. This can all be completed without your car nearby, with a beer on the coffee table if you like/dare.
*Do this 24 hours before install so that any thread sealant can set up – especially the 1/8” NPT
*All of the fuel fittings are -6AN, -8AN, or quick connect fittings except the 1/8” NPT plug. Be sure to tighten the NPT plug fully and use an appropriate thread sealant. I tightened as much as possible with the Allen wrench, and applied Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant #59214 from Autozone down the street (I went with this since thread tape has potential to plug injectors). I had a leak on this 1/8” NPT initially after everything was installed, which required me to remove everything to fix the leak.
*Have some oil handy to put a light coating on the o-rings
*I did not use AN wrenches for the install like it was recommended. Just don’t get carried away with steel wrenches and you should be fine.

------Fuel rail install – (1 hour removal, 2.5 hours install)
*Straight forward directions at beginning of this thread. Recommend doing this after engine has cooled overnight. Fuel fuse on ‘08 e90 was 20Amp #70 (picture attached – credit SteveAZ for picture)
*Google removing BMW N54 intake manifold if you need directions getting manifold off.
*I would recommend alligator clamp to pinch low pressure fuel line and plenty of rags/paper towels
*A 5/16” quick disconnect fuel tool can be used to remove the quick connect fitting, however this tool didn’t work for me. I simply pulled the plastic locking fitting apart with a needle-nose pliars and removed the fitting.
*For whatever reason, the quick connect fitting would not lock onto the existing fuel rail for me. I found that I damaged the two inner o-rings on this part which could have caused my issues, so have patience and get a good initial alignment. Eventually after fighting this for hours I just ordered a replacement fitting from Amazon (Russell fitting), and it snapped in place fairly easily.
*The fuel rail is somewhat of a tight fit, so before you wedge the fuel rail in place, I would agree with the recommendation to chase all of the tapped holes on the head to make life easier when you go to install the hold down bolts. Also, the only fitment complaint I would have is that the hose connection to the fuel rail is right up against the plastic rear OEM turbo inlet which is a pain (not sure if they could shorten the fuel rail to allow more room?).
*Make sure that all of the manifold-to-head o-rings are in place since they can fall out. Lift the rail up a half inch and feel to make sure each one is still there before bolting up.
*Once all of the fuel lines are tightened up and before you reinstall everything, clean up any fuel, remove the alligator clamp and install your LPFP fuse and connect your battery to pressure up the system for a leak check (be sure you DO NOT crank the engine over at this point). Look for leaks now since this is the easiest time to fix. If leak-free, move on to reinstalling everything.
*I would install the wiring harness into the injectors prior to installing the intake manifold while it is easy to access. Also, fish the injector wires through the car’s DME box grommet (and cut a small slit for it to exit). I did not do this so I had to cut the grommet to insert the wiring so that the DME lid would seat properly.
*Once everything is installed, make sure there are no leaks or residual fuel, and start the engine. I would let it heat up by idling and look/smell for leaks. The fuel rail does heat up quite a bit which could trigger a new leak potentially. I would not recommend a test drive until you are sure it is leak free in your garage with a fire extinguisher nearby.

------Wiring harness install – (~30 minutes)
*See page 1 of thread
*For clarity, green wire goes in at red circle #1 in picture below.
*More pictures below
*I ran the ground wire to the ground clamp in the engine bay with a short wire extension. M8 screw was used to tighten the wire to the ground clamp.
*AIC fit easily inside DME without rearranging anything even with the JB4 – maybe I got lucky.
*I recommend to fish injector wiring through DME port prior to connect injectors. I ended up cutting the middle grommet to install instead of redoing everything.

------Program AIC1 – (~30 minutes)
* Sabrent USB 2.0 to Serial (9-Pin) DB-9 RS-232 Converter Cable (CB-DB9P) will be needed (JB4 won’t work). Purchased for $9.99 on amazon.
*Take a look at the “data sheet” and “Instructions” .pdf files at https://splitsec.com/product/aic1-a1...or-controller/ . This info helps.
*AIC cover needs to be removed to plug in cable (picture below)
*This took me more like 2 hours to complete due to connection issues and the program not responding
*Old Windows XP laptop did not work
*Windows 7 Intel Celeron Laptop did not work at first
*Driver CD with cable wasn’t helpful, ultimately the automatic driver install when the cable was plugged into the laptop was what worked on my windows 7 laptop. Note the COM port when it goes to auto-install the driver (COM1-8 can be used I think)
*The R4 program would freeze when I would attempt to connect. I ended up changing the COM port from COM4 to COM1 in the advanced settings on my laptop and that was what worked for me for whatever reason.
*Ignition on, but engine off to program the AIC1.

Nothing too complex. Good instructions from the manufacturers. Great job by Terry and company making the interface a simple plug and play setup. Can’t beat having wiring and fuel maps ready to install. Requires some patience and small hands to work some things into tight spots.
Thanks for this! My PI kit just shipped so I'll hopefully be installing mine this week. I planned on doing a full DIY write-up, but it seems yours is rather complete already.


2008 135i 4L80E Swap - 807 WHP
VM 6466 Single Turbo Kit | JB4 | BMS Flash via MHD | Fuel-It Stage 3 | BMS Port Injection | E85


For all JB4 Mobile/Connect Kit requests, email me at: support@jb4connectkit.com

For JB4 Mobile feedback (bug reports, minor annoyances, etc.), email me at: feedback@jb4connectkit.com
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Amgturbo2012's Avatar
Amgturbo2012 Amgturbo2012 is offline
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Default 03-23-2015, 03:00 PM

The BMS kit doesn't already have the fuel rail assembled? The motiv one was... Saved about an hour or so.


10'135i Alpine White M-Sport M/T 827HP 707TQ@32lbs
Motiv 900 - Tial BOV/Wastegate - Big Tom Intercooler - FuelIt! Stage 3+ - MHD Custom Flash - Haltech PS1000 - Motiv Port Injection/Twin Disc - BMS OCC - Kosei - 275/40/17 NT05R's
10'135i Black A/T - 580WHP 540WTQ (11.51@134MPH 2.1 60')
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(#294)
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viperware viperware is offline
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Default 03-23-2015, 06:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amgturbo2012
The BMS kit doesn't already have the fuel rail assembled? The motiv one was... Saved about an hour or so.
It's because you can buy the kit without injectors and customize it to your desire. No reason for them to assemble parts they stock that they sell separately, not ideal for inventory purposes.


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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
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Default 03-23-2015, 07:38 PM

Yes many order it without injectors. Paul, ever get your flash situation sorted?


Burger Motorsports
Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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kenjermen kenjermen is offline
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Default 03-24-2015, 03:08 AM

will the program work on a windows 8 computer


2009 BMW 335I with: MHD/Haltech,
precision 6870 turbo, jp Workz header,
Wagner EVO II intercooler,HKS exhaust with cutouts, stage 3 lpfp, wavtech lsd, eospeed intake manifold with fuel return and 60lb injectors
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Default 03-24-2015, 06:10 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenjermen
will the program work on a windows 8 computer
yes


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viperware viperware is offline
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Car: 2010 535i
Default 03-24-2015, 01:25 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Yes many order it without injectors. Paul, ever get your flash situation sorted?
Yes, thanks for the file! However I think I want to change flash method like you recommended. If I uninstall the AP I'll be back to stock map again


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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 03-24-2015, 01:27 PM

Get the MHD application, works nicely!


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Car: 2008 135i
Default 03-26-2015, 03:05 PM

Don't know if this has been answered yet (I didn't see it), but is there a way to disable the port injection? Like if I put a toggle switch on the power line going to the injectors, would that suffice? Could I just make an AIC map with zero'd out pressure and load that when I don't want port injection? I ask because I'm not sure how my LPFP will take this right now and if it doesn't like it, I want to disable it until I get my Stage 3. Also would running this with a 50/50 E85/93 mix hurt anything?


2008 135i 4L80E Swap - 807 WHP
VM 6466 Single Turbo Kit | JB4 | BMS Flash via MHD | Fuel-It Stage 3 | BMS Port Injection | E85


For all JB4 Mobile/Connect Kit requests, email me at: support@jb4connectkit.com

For JB4 Mobile feedback (bug reports, minor annoyances, etc.), email me at: feedback@jb4connectkit.com
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