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Traf Traf is offline
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Posts: 225
Join Date: May 2015
Car: 2009 135i Coupe
Default 10-24-2015, 12:31 PM

Just did it, thanks to your DIY. No real difficulties, the rear bolt of the hpfp you can touch with your fingers so izy pizy actually i think removing my stock air box was harder :D.
But like an idiot and i don't even know why i wanted to pull the DVs one by one and i broke the nipple of one of them trying to remove the little hose lol. Anyway i fixed it with some epoxy seems to be holding fine.
So beware guys, it breaks very very easily.


f*** v-bands clamp

Last edited by Traf; 10-24-2015 at 12:37 PM..
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(#27)
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DanL DanL is offline
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Posts: 75
Join Date: Oct 2010
Car: 2010 535i M Sport
Default 10-25-2015, 10:19 AM

I just did my HPFP as well on my 535i. It took almost exactly two hours and I didn't run into any real problems other than the Harbor Freight long reach 5mm hex bit socket I had was too long to remove the rear bolt. I had to drive the bit out of the socket with a punch, cut off an inch with a Dremel, and pound it back into the socket. After that it was pretty simple and you can see the bolt head if you look down through one of the manifold openings. It also took a while to unscrew the lower front bolt since you can only get to it with a hex key, at least on the 535i. It may be easier on the 135i/535i.

I do have one suggestion I didn't see in the DIY guide. Put a rag in the front and rear charge pipe connector tubes and everywhere you'll be removing bolts (underneath the HPFP, throttle body, etc.) That way there's zero chance of something falling into one of the tubes and if a bolt falls while you're removing or installing it, it will fall onto a rag and not into the depths of the engine bay.


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(#28)
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s0urce s0urce is offline
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Posts: 24
Join Date: Mar 2013
Car: 08' 335i 6MT JB4
Default 02-18-2016, 11:40 PM

I'm replacing my hpfp this weekend. Is there anything special I need to do with the JB4 after the install? Does the FOL value need to be tweaked manually?
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(#29)
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Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It!'s Avatar
Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! Steve @ BMS/Fuel-It! is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Car: 135i
Default 02-19-2016, 10:31 AM

No...leave everything with the JB4 as is and do a couple logs to verify all is good.



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(#30)
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ba114 ba114 is offline
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Posts: 230
Join Date: Jul 2014
Car: 135i 6MT
Default 04-26-2016, 07:33 PM

used this on Monday. All went perfectly well. Had to get creative with an allen key and socket extension to get the rear bolt out of the hpfp but otherwise was pretty much trouble free.

Took about 1hr 20mins from start to finish
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(#31)
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raichean raichean is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Car: BMW 435i 6MT
Default 02-28-2019, 02:48 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONDEMAND
Just wanted to say thanks to Steve for putting this DIY together. Changed the pump on saturday and the car starts instantly now!

Also a thank you to fryj00 who is also an n55 and pm'd me with a few tips for the n55 motor as the DIY is for N54.

FYI: the dealer confirmed the HPFP ending in 6170 was the most current revision and I purchased from ECS.

SO IF YOU ARE AN N55 :

The "evil black box" on an n55 is different than N54 shown in the DIY. There is a box connected to the Intake manifold that does not need to be removed. There is however a group of wires that pass through a black plastic "race way" that needs to be moved out of the way to get proper access to the HPFP bolts. This race way is just a housing about 3 x 4 inches that multiple wires pass through. My guess is it simply keeps the wire in place. The plastic race way can simply be pulled towards the driver side wheel and slides off of two metal tabs.

Once this is done remove the oil sensor from the engine block to further access to the rear HPFP bolt.

On N55 you will need to unbolt the intake manifold but do not remove form the engine bay. Once you remove the 1 bolt and several nuts pull the intake up off the studs and swing the front portion up and towards the driver side of the vehicle. Then use a bungee cord from the underside of the hood to keep the intake mani out of the way. This keeps you form having to finagle the manifold out form all the various electrical lines above and behind the manifold.

You will notice as you loosen the fuel line nuts that they are not that tight. As these are compression fittings they do not require much force to seat properly which seems crazy given the fuel in them is under such pressure. I read a spec of 30nm but in the end I simply went hand tight | snug, and then a half turn on each of them.

Same for manifold bolts nuts and the throttle body. These are plastic pieces so do not over tighten.

When you are finished cycle the ignition several times to prime the pump and then start the engine up. You will likely get several codes off the batt and given the battery disconnected overnight, and all the various connectors being unplugged this is to be expected. I cleared the codes and cycled the engine. Still a code for throttle angle so cycled it again and no codes, car runs (and starts) like a champ now.

Good luck to anyone doing this and if you have any questions I'll be glad to help as others did for me.
I shot you off a PM, and would love to pick your brain as I have a N55 HPFP swap out coming up in 3-4 weeks.


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