N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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laurean bmw 135i n54's Avatar
laurean bmw 135i n54 laurean bmw 135i n54 is offline
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Default 10-16-2013, 04:36 PM

step 2 meets works??? wot is like a box??? I could explain the whole operation??? if anyone knows
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Default 10-18-2013, 05:19 PM

No Comprende.
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(#28)
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laurean bmw 135i n54's Avatar
laurean bmw 135i n54 laurean bmw 135i n54 is offline
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Default 10-20-2013, 04:52 PM

that meets the 2nd step function, and motor power standard that supports hp???
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kelbert kelbert is offline
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Default Using a D-Sub Pin Extraction Tool - 11-13-2013, 09:25 AM

This is a nice video tutorial for those that may use the D-Sub pin extraction tool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEYXlgnSyhA
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Default 11-13-2013, 10:41 AM

Welcome. Nice contribution for your 1st post!
That video wasn't aroung when I started the tread. Hope the guy in the video didn't lose his fingertip using that tool.
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Default 01-04-2014, 05:54 PM

Just got my g5 iso board. I originally had the jb3 pin out. A while ago, I upgraded to the jb4 and added the power wire.

If I have the old pin out, do I have to relocate the wires at the db25 or can I relocate them where the pins meet? i didnt think it would make a difference, just figured id ask.


07 E90 - JB4 G5, CMGS Meth, DCI, BMS C**L*SS, ER Chargepipe, E85/93 Map 5, Lux Angel Eyes, Valentine1.
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dr_alaa dr_alaa is offline
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Default 09-05-2014, 08:42 AM

i have ordered the jb4 g5 iso upgrade from n54tuning.com Mike is so cooperative and nice person. I get a fast reply from him and he was never bothered from my questions , wil do the swap within days and write a feedback
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Mjbaili Mjbaili is offline
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Default 10-10-2016, 12:18 AM

I have a jb4 g4 in my car looking forward to upgrade to g5 iso but im still confused if the harness will work with the new g5 board or do i have to buy a whole new one.
The post says you have to check if the purple and green wires go to the female side of the white subconnector but from what i know they go into both male and female.
Thank you for your help
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08 335Ci 08 335Ci is offline
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Default 10-13-2016, 07:06 PM

When did you buy the JB4 G4? I did a lot of research myself before going G5 ISO and if I remember right, 2012 and later the harnesses were made consistently. Going G5 ISO is a plug and 'play' process. Adding the SLD (speed limiter 'bypass') isn't necessary unless you don't have the 'high speed' option (840).

Make sure you have the latest JB4 interface and I'd suggest before starting the car, check your settings and start in map 0.


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'10 E92 335 M Sport, JB-4 G5 ISO, 3" CPE Charge pipe, WMI w/dual CM 5 nozzles, 3.5 Tmap, E85 BEF, Front Strut Brace, SS brake lines, Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Anti-lag, OCC. Escort Max 360

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Mrjrock85 Mrjrock85 is offline
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Default 03-01-2017, 05:02 AM

Does this not apply to those with jb3 harness going to g5 board? Now I'm confused. The jb3 to jb4 g5 conversion in the sticky section doesn't mention this. I've yet to find a thorough and clear write up. This is why so many people have issues
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Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is online now
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Default 03-01-2017, 10:56 AM

This is JB4 G4->G5. If coming from JB3 first you need to do JB3->G4 directions, then G4->G5 directions, as you are making two jumps.


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Turbo2Pete Turbo2Pete is offline
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Default 05-24-2019, 08:07 PM

Just an FYI for anyone trying to sort these wires, and is having trouble with the wire extraction tool.... I just got a G5 ISO - but the red wire to the DB25 had been cut - The guys at BMS were great, linked me to the replacement wire, and got it to me fast...

...Tonight I hit the electronics store (MIcro Center) and got a D-sub tool, just like the red/white in the linked video.

Nope. would. not. work. - now I know what I'm doing, I've done a LOT of wiring (took cars that were all manual, and re-wired to all power options - and looked factory) Used to work on computers and electronics...

It appears that the power wire in my harness may have been crimped a little 'off'...

SO - to remove the pin #19 to insert the new uncut wire was a PITA - What I ended up doing was to uncrimp the metal shell (4 tabs on the corners) The front shell comes off, then the black plastic is two pieces. the End piece will slide out, and then I was able to simply extract the pin and wire with tweezers....

But you would also be able to get to the locking tab and finesse it out if the tool won't work for you.

Now, the 25 pins are going to be floppy, so be careful sliding the front plastic back on, slide the front shell back, and re-crimp the tabs. (unbend as little as possible to start)

When mine was previously removed from another car, the SLD wires were also cut - so I'm now working on sorting/replacing those. (one side of the gray is there with the cut green, the other side is gone - fortunately I ordered a couple extra jumper wires so I have the pins!)
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