N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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JuniorB JuniorB is offline
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Car: 2007 e60 5 series
Default 10-13-2018, 05:44 AM

I'm in a build now similar like yours. I've got a n54 on a stand that I'm putting in place of a n52, and knowing how tight space is, makes you look at the everything that can go wrong. Things get expensive very quickly, so I shopped everywhere to get the best price, and it helped in the long run. I built my own stage ones, I sent out a 14t kit and had a shop build the chras, while I done the wastegates. The only part I'm looking for, is a upgraded motor mount. It's rewarding in the end, and happy with the outcome, and hopefully you as well.
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(#27)
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Car: 535i
Default 10-13-2018, 03:03 PM

Youre converting a pre 2008 5 series with an N52 to a 5 series with an N54? Why? It almost seems easier to sell that car and buy a 335i coupe which would be much easier to work on than the 5 series? N54 would require a new DME? Depending on what the N54 on you stand came with, you'd still need the whole charge air system and a way to make everything fit together.
Is the N54 on the stand rebuilt? Like has the engine been stripped down and overhauled? Why are you doing this swap??


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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(#28)
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Car: 535i
Default 10-14-2018, 11:21 AM

So just an update of where I'm at. I've been going slow as I have other things to do and weather has been shytty.
I removed the oil pan and cleaned it out. I left the power steering pump in place, I supported it with some zip ties so the hoses wouldn't be taking the weight of it. You don't need to fully remove the power steering pump to remove the oil pan. You need to unbolt it but thats all.
I had two oil pan bolts that had no heads on them. I was able to extract the remaining part of the bolts with some hassle but they eventually came out.
I power washed the oil pan and even needed to scrub some spots with a scotch brite pad.
As I'm taking parts off the car, I don't put anything back on the car unless its been thoroughly cleaned. I put off repairing the car for long enough, I want my engine bay to look squeaky clean once I'm done.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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(#29)
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Posts: 240
Join Date: Aug 2016
Car: 535i
Default 10-14-2018, 11:30 AM

Unfortunately I didn't find this out till yesterday but I will need a new rear turbo coolant return hose. I actually had this hose replaced before, I paid a local indy (Reid Vann) to do the work as I didn't have a place to do the repair at the time, it was $1300...

This is why you fix oil leaks when you notice them! My valve cover was leaking (which I knew) and the oil dripped onto my rear turbo coolant return hose and ate away at it till it started to leak, which it did a lot of!

Anyways, the rear turbo coolant return hose is a pain in the butt to replace with the subframe in place/the rear turbo in place. When I went to clean/replace the o-rings on the turbo coolant/oil lines, I realized I left the rear turbo coolant return line connected to the engine block. I took it off and cleaned it, then I unwrapped the heat shield covering the tubing on the hose and found that the rubber hose seemed to have a bulge/bloated outer layer. I did not want to take the risk and reinstall it to have it fail a month or two down the road (tho the part is only 2 or so years old). So I am going to replace it.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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(#30)
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Posts: 240
Join Date: Aug 2016
Car: 535i
Default 10-14-2018, 11:32 AM

Also, when you go to buy parts, if the part you are buying is only available in a BMW genuine part and not OEM, give you local dealership a call, generally, the parts will be the same price online (ECS, FCP Euro etc) as they would be at the dealership.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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(#31)
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Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
Rob@RBTurbo Rob@RBTurbo is offline
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Car: 335I
Default 10-25-2018, 07:49 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpro88
I have OEM CHRA's I got from Rob Beck. These have a little beefier internals but will produce about the same power as new stock turbos, which I'm ok with, this car is my DD and I'd rather save the money I'd spend on upgraded turbos on preventative maintenance or other car maintenance that may come up in the near future. This is a budget minded DIY.

I will like to start off this DIY with a shout out to Rob Beck at RB Turbo. I'm located in St. Louis so I met up with him to pick up the CHRAs, turbo install kit and a PCV vent hose. I know Rob is a busy guy, he puts hit life into his work. I was expecting a quick exchange of words when picking up the CHRAs from Rob, instead we ended up talking for like an hour and a half. I've heard good things about Rob from people who know him at local car meets, all spoke very highly of the man. After talking to him, he told me the story of his business and how it grew into what it has become today/how he kept investing his earnings into better machinery/production techniques which solely contributed to the end results and overall durability of his products. He explained the little things that matter in turbos, problems he had in the past and how he has over come those issues. This man may not know everything about the N54 platform but he sure as hell knows everything about turbos and the products he sells. All this information left me coming out of the "quick meet up" with the confidence that I picked the right turbo company for these CHRAs and knowing I would not regret the purchase. Rob was upfront about what I should expect from these; he didn't try to up sell me and seemed very authentic, he is very blunt and to the point - which might explain why some people think he's an a$$hole, personally I dig it, no ones got time for bullshyt.
Appreciate the kind words sir- also good to see a built thread out there for these things. Surprisingly the DIY offerings went very well considering the amount of effort they take to install. Meanwhile we sold a ton and there have been not a single reported issue with them since production began over 2 years ago.

Availability loosely (ie. in DIY form) they are now out of stock as far as significant volume of inventory is concerned, only sporadically will they likely be available in this form again... as our shelves are cleaned from them at this point. Usually we suggest it maybe worthwhile to just buy them complete, for the amount of work that it is to do it all right it is not that much more $$$. But some love to DIY stuff, which is cool because that is really the only way to learn if that is what you are looking to do as well.

Rob


See www.rbturbo.com for N54 Twin Turbo Bolt-On upgrades, or contact directly 314-630-8950 rob.rbturbo@gmail.com for a price quote.
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(#32)
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Car: 535i
Default 10-25-2018, 01:17 PM

CHRA replacement/exhaust manifold/turbine housing media blasting/cleaning/remove old/weld new wastegates/actuators takes some time to do properly. Assuming you had all the equipment to do it youself, I'd expect a solid day to day and a half, maybe 2 to get it looking/working like new (depends on the tooling you have at hand). Depending on your attention to detail, you might run the risks of messing something up.
My cost was:
$500-$600 CHRA's
$24 (glass beads)
$62 - $31 (2) wastegate actuators
$70.00 - Mitsubishi wastegate repair
$3 316 SS set screws (I used as retaining screws for the wastegate bushing)
$10.00 - Weld wastegates
$4 - chain tensioner tool I modified to be large screw type snap ring tool.

I already had - media blasting cabinet/blaster, air compressors/shop air, powerwasher, carbide/hss drill bits.
I used a deep socket and a 3/8" SS bolt/nut with washers to make a puller to pull out the old wastegate bushing. I carefully tapped the new one in with a hammer and pb blaster.

So is it really worth the $600-$800 you saved? That's up to you. It was an experience for me but probably something I'd pass on doing the next time.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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(#33)
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Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
Rob@RBTurbo Rob@RBTurbo is offline
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Posts: 3,958
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Car: 335I
Default 10-25-2018, 07:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpro88
CHRA replacement/exhaust manifold/turbine housing media blasting/cleaning/remove old/weld new wastegates/actuators takes some time to do properly. Assuming you had all the equipment to do it youself, I'd expect a solid day to day and a half, maybe 2 to get it looking/working like new (depends on the tooling you have at hand). Depending on your attention to detail, you might run the risks of messing something up.
My cost was:
$500-$600 CHRA's
$24 (glass beads)
$62 - $31 (2) wastegate actuators
$70.00 - Mitsubishi wastegate repair
$3 316 SS set screws (I used as retaining screws for the wastegate bushing)
$10.00 - Weld wastegates
$4 - chain tensioner tool I modified to be large screw type snap ring tool.

I already had - media blasting cabinet/blaster, air compressors/shop air, powerwasher, carbide/hss drill bits.
I used a deep socket and a 3/8" SS bolt/nut with washers to make a puller to pull out the old wastegate bushing. I carefully tapped the new one in with a hammer and pb blaster.

So is it really worth the $600-$800 you saved? That's up to you. It was an experience for me but probably something I'd pass on doing the next time.
Indeed. All comes down to the time available and risk of doing the work vs. just having it handed off already done correctly for some more. It is quite the chore, lots of hard work, and trust me it burns you out doing it over and over and over and over and over and over and over to infinity.


See www.rbturbo.com for N54 Twin Turbo Bolt-On upgrades, or contact directly 314-630-8950 rob.rbturbo@gmail.com for a price quote.
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(#34)
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Posts: 240
Join Date: Aug 2016
Car: 535i
Default 11-01-2018, 10:32 PM

Well the car is done! It's still on jack stands as I wanted to let it heat cycle of few times to make sure nothing leaks. So far the garage floor is spotless! Purrs like a champ!


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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