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Default 03-01-2017, 07:54 PM

Steve is there a way to diagnose a bad injector from a log? Below are 2 logs of big hesitation at full throttle today, Map4. I took six logs and the car consistently over-boosted by 2 or more psi. I understand that the throttle can reduce itself to counteract over boost, but these seem like huge swings. And big clouds of blue smoke shortly after I begin to drive tell me there's a bigger problem.

I have new plugs and coils. This week it threw misfire cyl-5, checked plug and changed new coil with another new coil. Cleared code and it happened again cyl-5. Am I right to conclude that injector is failing?
Attached Files
File Type: csv 170301_2009.csv (5.5 KB, 116 views)
File Type: csv 170301_2006.csv (6.5 KB, 95 views)


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Default 03-01-2017, 08:42 PM

Bank 2 AFR's look wonky, could definitely be an injector in 5. Try swapping with cylinder 2.



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Default 03-02-2017, 10:05 AM

Ok I'll try the swap to see if the problem follows the injector.

I know I'd need to recode a replacement injector, but do I need to do any recoding to swap injectors that are already operational in the car?


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Default 03-02-2017, 11:03 PM

Yes, if you leave them in their new locations, they need to be coded.



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Default 03-10-2017, 06:47 AM

Injector should arrive tomorrow, will recode via INPA.

Before I do, are there any other fuel settings or adaptations within JB4 that might fix the boost oscillation? Based on my last log


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Default 03-12-2017, 05:45 PM

The last two logs you posted are pretty short and on map 4. Settings look okay though.



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Default 03-15-2017, 06:09 PM

Replaced injector #5 and re-coded. I have not reset any adaptations. Cold startups are slightly improved but I'm still getting significant boost oscillation at partial throttle. [stock BEF]

You had me modify my menu 10 from 4->3, and menu 11 from 0->1. Could tweaking these further help? I'm open to any suggestion. Will post a log if needed, but same problem

(new plugs, coils, stock LPFP, and LPF sensor though still reading faulty)


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Default 03-20-2017, 07:52 AM

- BUMP


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Default 03-20-2017, 06:20 PM

Lets see the log.



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Default 03-20-2017, 08:43 PM

Here are four from the other day, varying gears and throttle. One thing they all have in common is that boost goes above target at the time that the oscillation starts. I know the JB4 has a safeguard to dial back throttle in those cases even if pedal is pinned down. Happens sometimes at WOT but much less often.

Thanks Steve
Attached Files
File Type: csv 170316_1142 WOT 2nd.csv (3.8 KB, 102 views)
File Type: csv 170316_1141.csv (4.6 KB, 111 views)
File Type: csv 170316_1137.csv (9.1 KB, 79 views)
File Type: csv 170316_1135.csv (5.9 KB, 120 views)


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Default 03-21-2017, 09:23 PM

FF is learning down. If oscillating at partial throttle, try increasing menu 11.



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Default 03-22-2017, 04:45 PM

I increased Menu 11 in small increments. Once i got to 4+ I did feel some improvement, a little less eager to oscillate. but it's still happening at partial throttle What do I tweak so that boost doesn't overshoot the target?

Also, I'm worried about timing. Drops very low. I run 93 octane. I really appreciate your help
Attached Files
File Type: csv 170322_1643 oscillation half thrtl gear2.csv (20.5 KB, 98 views)
File Type: csv 170322_1601 oscillation half thrtl.csv (6.3 KB, 88 views)
File Type: csv 170322_1559 WOT 2 3 low timing.csv (22.6 KB, 75 views)
File Type: csv 170322_1602 WOT 2 3 low timing 2.csv (21.7 KB, 102 views)
File Type: csv 170322_1603 WOT 2nd.csv (11.8 KB, 69 views)


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Default 03-23-2017, 11:59 AM

Have you tried adjusting menu 12?

Here are the descriptions for both of those...

Pedal input: Menu 11 (0-5000rpm). This determines the gas pedal's impact on the boost target. A value of 0 will target 0psi up to 45% gas pedal input while a value of 5000rpm will target 0psi up to 5% gas pedal input. Regardless of setting full boost will be targeted at 100% gas pedal input. Note that depending on your menu 12 setting you will likely make more than 0psi regardless of this setting at lower gas pedal inputs when under load.

Base duty cycle: Menu 12 (0-5000rpm) and represents the minimum duty cycle to the boost solenoids. PWM will not drop below this value regardless of boost. The default setting is 2800rpm which is 28%. Going too high or low on this value may cause over/under boosting during low and partial throttle, surging, boost oscillation, and other headaches. Generally speaking this value should be set between 2400-2800rpm.



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Default 03-23-2017, 12:14 PM

I have the same issue actually.

I thought i was the only one thus far but i do get mine on part throttle in a lower rpm and high gear. My car just dives oddly and i do get an occasional gauge sweep maybe once a month for no reason.

My tuner increased HPFP pressure and it resolved most of my issues however it does occur when warm out.

Im going to keep trying things and if i find something valuable i will report back to update the OP.


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Default 03-23-2017, 12:51 PM

No I haven't adjusted menu 12 from the default of 2800. I don't know much about it. So, a high PWM signal spools up the turbos. As the boost level approaches the target, the JB4 should automatically reduce PWM signal (before the PID takes over) to keep from exceeding boost target? So if PWM is starting off too high, reducing menu 12 is the way to fix it? I will reduce it slowly to see if it works, but I'll stop at a minimum of 2400 unless you have other advice.

**I'm concerned about my ignition timing because the above logs seem very low. Is there a JB4 setting that would improve this? Would a BEF help?


Nelson - when I was getting random gauge sweeps it was due to the JB4 power connection. JB4 was cutting off momentarily and disconnecting/reconnecting with a gauge sweep. I leave the gauge sweep on so I'd know when this was occurring. This was my issue when I started this thread. I went back into the DME and checked each and every wire (esp the red power wire) and that issue stopped happening.


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Default 03-24-2017, 06:00 PM

I lowered menu 12 in 100 rpm increments 2800 to 2500 and it cured most of the oscillation. Finally. If there's still some noticeable oscillation (not as dramatic as before) how low is safe to drop it down to?

and would still appreciate your opinion on the timing. thank you


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Default 03-25-2017, 07:38 PM

Poor timing is usually due to insufficient octane. I'd also enable 6-cyl timing. Try going a little lower with menu 12 and see if there is much more improvement.



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Default 03-28-2017, 10:10 PM

I'll have to find out how to enable the other cylinders and I'll keep menu 12 in mind for boost oscillation issues if they return, currently at 2500. The oscillation is practically gone but the boost still exceeds target in my logs

Today the car threw these codes and the log is attached:
- 29E2 (Fuel injection rail, pressure sensor signal)
- 29F2 (fuel pressure, high pressure)
I'm weary of my HPFP but in the log it looks strong.
My FOL is at 90 should I adjust it?


Maybe related but just this week the car started doing the white exhaust smoke soon after startup and then goes away. also Lots of condensation spitting out *****. extra rocky idle on cold starts (I have replaced the valve cover/gasket already and plugs and coils)
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File Type: csv 170328_1917.csv (20.8 KB, 87 views)


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Default 03-29-2017, 08:26 PM

LPFP sensor is bad.

I'd recommend loading a flash and lowering your FOL to see if that helps with your rail pressure errors.

Trims are about maxed out with FOL at 90 so you won't be able to lower it until you do a flash.



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Default 03-30-2017, 07:24 PM

I pulled the LPF sensor again this afternoon and reinstalled it. Now it's reading numbers and my sticky 29F3 finally went away. Not sure why so many digits. I replaced a dying LPFP already and now this log shows 70-73 psi at WOT. i know the log is short and only in 2nd gear but these are healthy numbers right?

Now I can go to the dealer to have the HPFP tested before the warranty period passes. It looks pretty strong during my WOT logs but I get long cranks a few times a week when i start cold. and almost all my starts are rocky. in your experience are HPFP's that perform well at WOT ever found bad at the dealership? or am i wasting my time

I have other questions about BEF's but I'll do more research first. thank you


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File Type: csv 170330_2011.csv (12.9 KB, 106 views)


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Default 03-31-2017, 06:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by e46eric
I pulled the LPF sensor again this afternoon and reinstalled it. Now it's reading numbers and my sticky 29F3 finally went away. Not sure why so many digits. I replaced a dying LPFP already and now this log shows 70-73 psi at WOT. i know the log is short and only in 2nd gear but these are healthy numbers right?

Now I can go to the dealer to have the HPFP tested before the warranty period passes. It looks pretty strong during my WOT logs but I get long cranks a few times a week when i start cold. and almost all my starts are rocky. in your experience are HPFP's that perform well at WOT ever found bad at the dealership? or am i wasting my time

I have other questions about BEF's but I'll do more research first. thank you


And now out of nowhere, the car feels laggy. I took a log to see if it was my imagination and even though it stays near target, it took twice the time to build boost! What the heck could have changed overnight?!
Attached Files
File Type: csv 170331_1755 WOT 3rd.csv (17.2 KB, 79 views)


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Question 04-02-2017, 06:29 PM

Even though I knew those two logs i put up were in two different gears and slightly different RPM, it still felt slower than it should. Took the bike for the weekend and when I came back to give the car a drive, and it felt solid, very solid. log below.

Except for a looong crank at start up and idle so rocky it concerns me. It's going to BMW for HPFP test on wed so I can't flash until then.


Steve - once the BEF is done, what ratio E85 am I safe mixing with 93 and which map is best for it? (DCI, **'s, ISO currently map2)


Thanks,
Attached Files
File Type: csv 170402_1837.csv (7.9 KB, 88 views)


- Eric
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Default 04-04-2017, 03:25 PM

Which flash are you going to do and how much do you want to run?



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Default 04-04-2017, 04:13 PM

I'll run as much E85 as is safe for my modest setup: G5, DCI, **, stock catback. Which flash? - I don't know, I've never flashed from stock. I've learneda bit through research but everyone has an opinion that's why I'd really appreciate your expert advice which flash best fits my needs. I've read that the BMS race flash is a good compromise?

Driving habits: I don't track the car or hit drag strips. but definitely a "spirited" driver and love my WOT pulls like we all do but I never romp on it irresponsibly and always wait til systems are up to temp. My LPFP is stock and I realize I may need an in-line supplement at some point in time.

From what I gather (and please correct me if I'm wrong), I'll start around a 30% mixture (~4gal E85 to a tank) cruise maybe 15 min while it mixes thoroughly then run 3+ WOT pulls in Map5 for auto-tuning purposes. I've also read that increasing E85 ratio doesn't always equate to more power.

So,
- which flash is most appropriate
- is 30% a good place to start
- Map 2 or 5


Thanks!


- Eric
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Default 04-05-2017, 08:12 PM

<E20 pump flash
<E40 race flash
>E40 E85 flash

E30 is a good place to start and then log and post up so we can evaluate.



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