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funglenn funglenn is offline
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Default PCV valve question - 07-14-2019, 11:57 AM

so i recently had a bunch of work done and one last thing to do is my valve cover--it is leaking.

but after replacing every component in my front end suspension and an oil pan oil leak and intake cleaning all at one sitting my wallet very much aches.

so the leak is not too bad but i am concerned about my PCV system. I exhibit no problems but wondered if it is critical.

i have an 09 with 120k miles. My oil catch can shows about one ounce of oil every 10k miles or more. i think the system is running well enough for now--i have heard that if the PCV system was going bad my oil can would have lot more oil in the catch than i do.

is that a good sign that the pcv is still working at an acceptable level? i am thinking of upgrading to a BT PCV valve but want to wait--i am concerned about the plastic breaking/cracking.

all inputs welcome.


2009 535i Xdrive Sport. Alpine White/Black Leather. JB4 G5, Dinan Exhaust. Escort Passport SRX laser jammer. Burger catch can, Sport SAT Transmission retrofit, Beyern Mesh Chrome Rims, CIC Retrofit
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eaton18spd eaton18spd is offline
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Default 07-16-2019, 09:34 AM

If you are still running the stock valve, you may want to get it done now. I just changed mine and I couldn't believe how bad the stock valve is. I installed the RB one and its a huge difference in quality. I too was worried about breaking things but if you are careful and take your time gently working the cap off and also with the valve itself, you will be fine. If you take something like a drill bit and stick it in the end of the pcv valve and then gently work it out with needle nose pliers, it should come out with some resistance
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BeatupVR4 BeatupVR4 is offline
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Default 07-17-2019, 05:04 AM

I didn't need a drill bit or anything like that, just a shop rag and your fingers and it should come out. It's only held in by the friction of the oring.

As a note I'm not sure if it's E60 specific but I needed to take off the cylinder 6 feed line from the fuel rail to the injector to be able to remove the PCV cap. IIRC it's 14mm on both sides. Careful when re-installing as it's super easy to over tighten and damage this flare style of connection. I used a crows foot on a torque wrench.

GL
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eaton18spd eaton18spd is offline
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Default 07-17-2019, 08:57 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatupVR4
I didn't need a drill bit or anything like that, just a shop rag and your fingers and it should come out. It's only held in by the friction of the oring.

As a note I'm not sure if it's E60 specific but I needed to take off the cylinder 6 feed line from the fuel rail to the injector to be able to remove the PCV cap. IIRC it's 14mm on both sides. Careful when re-installing as it's super easy to over tighten and damage this flare style of connection. I used a crows foot on a torque wrench.

GL
Mine took quite a bit to work it out. So I used the drill bit to reduce the risk of snapping the end of the valve off.. I have seen were other people have said they need to remove #6 fuel line but I had plenty of room to get the cap out with the line still in place.
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nextNME nextNME is offline
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Default 07-17-2019, 07:09 PM

E60 owner as well. You do not need to remove the #6 fuel rail, but it's much easier if you do. I got the FTP valve and housing:
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...d-replacement/
I didn't have any symptoms but replaced it when I did the valve cover gasket. Also replaced the flapper valve just as a precaution.
I broke the stock PCV trying to remove it. It should come out by hand, but... 100k miles it was in there tight.
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