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Glfdriver18 Glfdriver18 is offline
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Default 07-22-2019, 11:35 AM

Got the JB4 installed, nice and easy, even compared to my 7.5 R since there was no under the car plug! Couple questions for Terry:
1) Any plans to being trans temp monitoring for the app? Would be very useful for tracking, and it’s something that the car doesn’t display now.
2) For logging, which channel is the overall IGN correction for these cars? IGN 1 like on the R/S3? Which would mean 2-6 are the individual cyls? I ask because I didn’t see Any data at all on IGN 6, which is odd if there is in fact one channel per cyl and an overall one. AVG IGN doesn’t show anything either, as I thought it was perhaps that one.
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Default 07-22-2019, 01:19 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glfdriver18
Got the JB4 installed, nice and easy, even compared to my 7.5 R since there was no under the car plug! Couple questions for Terry:
1) Any plans to being trans temp monitoring for the app? Would be very useful for tracking, and it’s something that the car doesn’t display now.
2) For logging, which channel is the overall IGN correction for these cars? IGN 1 like on the R/S3? Which would mean 2-6 are the individual cyls? I ask because I didn’t see Any data at all on IGN 6, which is odd if there is in fact one channel per cyl and an overall one. AVG IGN doesn’t show anything either, as I thought it was perhaps that one.
We will add trans temp eventually.

Ign1 is the timing as it was on your old unit. On the adaptions 2-5 I don't think we have found the 5th cylinder but that will be added too.


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Glfdriver18 Glfdriver18 is offline
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Default 07-22-2019, 09:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by George @ BMS
We will add trans temp eventually.

Ign1 is the timing as it was on your old unit. On the adaptions 2-5 I don't think we have found the 5th cylinder but that will be added too.
Perfect, thanks for that. Hilariously, although I installed the unit the other day, the first time I romped on the car was tonight heading home from dinner to pass someone. (I have a boring daily commute, I'm half asleep and drive in comfort mode 99% of the time). Floored it, car dropped several gears and then.... nothing. No boost. My wife looked at me like 'what the hell is wrong with your brand new car?!'

I had to explain to her 'it's just the tuning box, that's all.' Granted I think she was equally baffled by the fact I'd just added a tuning box that took all the power away

So, 0/1 so far. Rocky start lol, let's hope things get better from here...
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Glfdriver18 Glfdriver18 is offline
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Default 07-24-2019, 03:10 PM

Something else today that was “interesting”.
I started the car after work and immediately noticed that the boost meter on the gauge cluster was fluctuating wildly. Happened for like ten seconds before I got a warning on the dash ‘drive system malfunction, contact service’.

I shut off the car, left it off for 30 seconds and restarted. The issue was gone. I checked all the connections for security again, everything is snapped in nice and tight. It’s like the JB4 freaked out and send some weird data thru one of the boost sensor connections making the car think it was making crazy boost at idle.

Has anyone experienced this before? I know these units are still beta, but having the no boost problem right out of the gate and now this is making me think this was perhaps a premature purchase...
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tegxsi tegxsi is offline
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Default 07-24-2019, 04:48 PM

I had drive system malfunction once when the OBD cable was loose or wasn't seated all the way. It tripped MAP sensors.

There have been many firmware improvements over the months but the boost issue has been around since the first firmware release. It's like the wastegate is stuck wide open.
I'm enjoying map5 using E30 but it is kind of a downer when the car doesn't want to go. I hope this gets fixed soon.


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Default 07-24-2019, 05:37 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glfdriver18
Something else today that was “interesting”.
I started the car after work and immediately noticed that the boost meter on the gauge cluster was fluctuating wildly. Happened for like ten seconds before I got a warning on the dash ‘drive system malfunction, contact service’.

I shut off the car, left it off for 30 seconds and restarted. The issue was gone. I checked all the connections for security again, everything is snapped in nice and tight. It’s like the JB4 freaked out and send some weird data thru one of the boost sensor connections making the car think it was making crazy boost at idle.

Has anyone experienced this before? I know these units are still beta, but having the no boost problem right out of the gate and now this is making me think this was perhaps a premature purchase...
I think George has seen that before, was fixed changing the physical box placement.


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Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-25-2019, 04:03 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glfdriver18
Something else today that was “interesting”.
I started the car after work and immediately noticed that the boost meter on the gauge cluster was fluctuating wildly. Happened for like ten seconds before I got a warning on the dash ‘drive system malfunction, contact service’.

I shut off the car, left it off for 30 seconds and restarted. The issue was gone. I checked all the connections for security again, everything is snapped in nice and tight. It’s like the JB4 freaked out and send some weird data thru one of the boost sensor connections making the car think it was making crazy boost at idle.

Has anyone experienced this before? I know these units are still beta, but having the no boost problem right out of the gate and now this is making me think this was perhaps a premature purchase...
Is the JB4 box sitting between the ECU and airbox. We saw this issue with the unit strapped to the ABS pump area.


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Glfdriver18 Glfdriver18 is offline
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Default 07-25-2019, 05:06 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by George @ BMS
Is the JB4 box sitting between the ECU and airbox. We saw this issue with the unit strapped to the ABS pump area.
Yes, mounted exactly as you stated, in between the airbox and ECU.

EDIT: exact same issue today after work. Can you explain in detail how the mounting location of the unit could possibly cause this? I’m happy and able to move it, but if it is already in the suggested ‘fix’ location...

Perhaps an in depth understanding of exactly what this issue is, and how the design / location of the JB4 is causing it, will allow an actual fix to be figured out?

Last edited by Glfdriver18; 07-25-2019 at 02:54 PM..
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RSthree RSthree is offline
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Default 07-26-2019, 03:55 PM

I’ll probably jinx myself now but I haven’t had the boost problem. Car is stock and been running map 2&3 for 2 months now.
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Default 07-26-2019, 07:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSthree
I’ll probably jinx myself now but I haven’t had the boost problem. Car is stock and been running map 2&3 for 2 months now.
I never get it on our TTRS either. I'm sure we'll both by in low boost mode by day end now.


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It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 07-26-2019, 07:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glfdriver18
Yes, mounted exactly as you stated, in between the airbox and ECU.

EDIT: exact same issue today after work. Can you explain in detail how the mounting location of the unit could possibly cause this? I’m happy and able to move it, but if it is already in the suggested ‘fix’ location...

Perhaps an in depth understanding of exactly what this issue is, and how the design / location of the JB4 is causing it, will allow an actual fix to be figured out?
SENT signals are high speed and electrically sensitive so there is the potential for outside electrical interference. As a test, remove your blue tooth adapter if equipped also to see if it has any effect.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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tegxsi tegxsi is offline
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Default 07-27-2019, 07:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
SENT signals are high speed and electrically sensitive so there is the potential for outside electrical interference. As a test, remove your blue tooth adapter if equipped also to see if it has any effect.
If signals are high speed would the length of the TMAP sensor connections matter? The harness i have is unnecessary long since I bought the B9 version JB4.


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Default 07-28-2019, 10:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by tegxsi
If signals are high speed would the length of the TMAP sensor connections matter? The harness i have is unnecessary long since I bought the B9 version JB4.
That isn't a concern as the rest of the cars we use the same harness on doesn't have the issue with identical sensors. This is what makes the issue baffling.


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Glfdriver18 Glfdriver18 is offline
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Default 07-28-2019, 09:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by George @ BMS
That isn't a concern as the rest of the cars we use the same harness on doesn't have the issue with identical sensors. This is what makes the issue baffling.
Between this issue and the boost issue, and with both being only present on the 2.5L motors, why not develop a separate product line entirely just for RS3/TTRS?
Sure, the plugs may be the same, and the sensors, but clearly something is unique to these cars.

Isn’t it still possible that there will need to be a circuit change just for this platform anyways?

Also, thinking about it a bit more, what are the chances the boost drop out issue is related to the start up drive system malfunction? Could it also be caused be EMI?
Have you done any testing with shielding the unit itself/wiring from any EMI, EG: a RF sealed enclosure, using foil/braided copper shielding on the wires, etc?
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Default 07-29-2019, 05:01 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glfdriver18
Between this issue and the boost issue, and with both being only present on the 2.5L motors, why not develop a separate product line entirely just for RS3/TTRS?
Sure, the plugs may be the same, and the sensors, but clearly something is unique to these cars.

Isn’t it still possible that there will need to be a circuit change just for this platform anyways?

Also, thinking about it a bit more, what are the chances the boost drop out issue is related to the start up drive system malfunction? Could it also be caused be EMI?
Have you done any testing with shielding the unit itself/wiring from any EMI, EG: a RF sealed enclosure, using foil/braided copper shielding on the wires, etc?
The challenge is to pin point why some cars do it and others don't so possibly something to do with the box code varying.

Its not related to any stored faults. Happens when car has no faults and when it does happen it doesn't trigger anything.
Have tried different length wires on mind with no success as well as moving the unit away from anything that would interfere.
Its something on top of the priority list and if a new circuit board is required we will swop all the existing ones out for users.


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cityazndan cityazndan is offline
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Default 07-29-2019, 06:54 PM

George, any developments for DWP or wastegate settings like in the N54 to stop the dreaded WG rattle that plagues this platform ?


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tegxsi tegxsi is offline
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Default 07-31-2019, 12:13 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by George @ BMS
That isn't a concern as the rest of the cars we use the same harness on doesn't have the issue with identical sensors. This is what makes the issue baffling.
On my car, the no boost condition happens on maps 0-5.
Is map-0 pass through or simulated stock? Differences are noticeable between map0 and jb4 removed.


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Default 07-31-2019, 12:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by tegxsi
On my car, the no boost condition happens on maps 0-5.
Is map-0 pass through or simulated stock? Differences are noticeable between map0 and jb4 removed.
Its pass through with the JB4 not changing signals but they signals still go through the JB4. The issue is not a tuning issue but a signal loss signal of some kind.


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Default 07-31-2019, 12:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cityazndan
George, any developments for DWP or wastegate settings like in the N54 to stop the dreaded WG rattle that plagues this platform ?
@Terry will see if something can be done.


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Default 07-31-2019, 02:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cityazndan
George, any developments for DWP or wastegate settings like in the N54 to stop the dreaded WG rattle that plagues this platform ?
@Terry will see if something can be done.


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Matthias Matthias is offline
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Default Map 5 - 08-03-2019, 06:36 AM

Hi,
Just try some runs with map 5 . 102 Oktan , only pph intakte and Filter .

Think it Is Little Rock „Hard“ without d ownpipe What do you mean ? @terry @george

Can you „Write“ a map for my rs3 ? Theres every Engines is a little different.

Thanks a lot

P.s. Heard about that APR Is Running 25-26 psi Stock. So why not with jb23-24
Attached Files
File Type: csv 2019-08-03 13_58_58_Map-5.csv (13.5 KB, 101 views)
File Type: csv 2019-07-28 16_17_18_Map-5.csv (7.5 KB, 106 views)
File Type: csv 2019-08-03 13_59_45_Map-5.csv (10.2 KB, 79 views)
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Default 08-03-2019, 07:49 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthias
Hi,
Just try some runs with map 5 . 102 Oktan , only pph intakte and Filter .

Think it Is Little Rock „Hard“ without d ownpipe What do you mean ? @terry @george

Can you „Write“ a map for my rs3 ? Theres every Engines is a little different.

Thanks a lot

P.s. Heard about that APR Is Running 25-26 psi Stock. So why not with jb23-24
If you can email me the logs. We might need to drop the boost request at high rpm. As you get into 5th with higher IAT there is some throttle closing events. Do some map 4 logs and email those too.

We run more timing than the flash tunes since the ECU logic is used for timing.


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nardo19 nardo19 is offline
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Default 08-05-2019, 12:43 PM

Hey guys! Took the plunge



Sploosh. Pretty excited. Wanted to flash UNI but imma wait until my warranty is a bit further along, and I figure, I can still use this when I do go for it.

Couple q's

I had a Cobb Flex kit in my subaru, which I loved because it read e85 content through the AP. Wonderful deal. Obviously this doesn't have that, so I have to manually measure. I found this great calculator (i'm sure you're aware of it, but here it is). Every time I've filled up at my pump it comes out at the same percentage, without fail 68.9%. I've never seen variance to it. So, my question is... lets say it varies a smidge. Lets say I mix 5g into 14.5 total capacity, which is right around E30 exactly, but for some reason the mix is weak and it ends up at E25. Damage likely? Or..lets say it ends up at E35? I am going to buy a little test kit, but its not practical to carry that thing around with you and test on the go, and I'm gonna buy a FF sensor but right now, I don't want to install addt'l parts that can be seen when I take it in for service. I'm trying to remain lowkey and the JB4 is really the only thing I wanna install on my car right now, otherwise thats a pain in the ass to switch out when I go for service. Am I playing with fire or would it be reasonably safe to just stick with the 5g of e68 in my tank without testing every single time
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tegxsi tegxsi is offline
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Default 08-05-2019, 02:10 PM

5 gallons should be good. Is it ~69% in your area year round? It's best to datalog and check for knock adaptation and fuel trims.

The ethanol content at the pump in my area is +80% year round so it's not much guess work for me. I usually do 4 gallons but I've done 5 (E35) without any issues.


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nardo19 nardo19 is offline
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Default 08-05-2019, 02:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by tegxsi
5 gallons should be good. Is it ~69% in your area year round? It's best to datalog and check for knock adaptation and fuel trims.

The ethanol content at the pump in my area is +80% year round so it's not much guess work for me. I usually do 4 gallons but I've done 5 (E35) without any issues.
Yeah its been the same all times of the year for me. I will do a random test here and there though. i'll keep an eye on knock and such as you recommend.
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