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Kamsolo135 Kamsolo135 is offline
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Default N54 Seized after OFHG replacement - 04-06-2019, 09:40 PM

The other day I replaced my oilfilter housing gasket and walnut blasted the intake ports. After completion I started the car up, let it run for a few minutes and then took it out on a drive. Not even a mile from the house the car died and would not start back up. I tried jumping it to make sure it wasnít a battery issue, no luck. Not sure where to start on this, if anyone has any ideas please let me know. I have done this service several times on my other N54/55 cars with no issue.
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E90 M335i E90 M335i is offline
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Default 04-06-2019, 09:47 PM

Did you try to turn the engine manually by the crank?
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Kamsolo135 Kamsolo135 is offline
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Default 04-06-2019, 10:04 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by E90 M335i
Did you try to turn the engine manually by the crank?
Yes I did, with a really long breaker bar. Barely moved and it had a ton of resistance.
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brendan brendan is offline
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Default 04-07-2019, 12:47 AM

Did you do all your valves at the same time?
Or did you turn engine over and do 3 at a time?

Why do you think its siezed?

Changing a gasket doesnt cause bearings not be lubricated or sieze.
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Kamsolo135 Kamsolo135 is offline
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Default 04-07-2019, 10:17 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan
Did you do all your valves at the same time?
Or did you turn engine over and do 3 at a time?

Why do you think its siezed?

Changing a gasket doesnt cause bearings not be lubricated or sieze.
I turned the engine over to make sure the valves were closed while doing the walnut blasting. I am not sure why it is seized but the starter cannot turn the engine over and as I said earlier it was super difficult to turn it even with a long breaker bar on the crank.
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Kamsolo135 Kamsolo135 is offline
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Default 04-07-2019, 03:56 PM

Looks like the car spun bearing number 4. I dropped the oil pan and after taking the rod cap off the engine turned freely. Is this just a freak accident?
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Magnusk77 Magnusk77 is offline
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Default 04-07-2019, 06:50 PM

That sounds very strange... Glad it didnt happen to me LOL


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Kamsolo135 Kamsolo135 is offline
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Default 04-07-2019, 08:05 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnusk77
That sounds very strange... Glad it didnt happen to me LOL
Yeah itís a pain, just glad the crank is still in good shape.
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Traf Traf is offline
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Default 04-07-2019, 11:18 PM

Did you prime the engine after replace the OFHG ?


f*** v-bands clamp
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Kamsolo135 Kamsolo135 is offline
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Default 04-08-2019, 07:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf
Did you prime the engine after replace the OFHG ?
Yeah the engine ran for about 30 minutes, issue only happed after I started to drive to the car wash.
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Default 04-08-2019, 07:59 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamsolo135
Yeah the engine ran for about 30 minutes, issue only happed after I started to drive to the car wash.
Na i mean, did you unplug the injectors and turn the engine to prime the oil system before start up ?


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Kamsolo135 Kamsolo135 is offline
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Default 04-08-2019, 08:14 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf
Na i mean, did you unplug the injectors and turn the engine to prime the oil system before start up ?
No I did not, I have done this same maintenance multiple times with no issue. Donít see how it would affect it this one time.
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Traf Traf is offline
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Default 04-08-2019, 09:46 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamsolo135
No I did not, I have done this same maintenance multiple times with no issue. Donít see how it would affect it this one time.
You are supposed to prime the oiling system when you do major oil related maintenance, like the OFHG.


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codesx codesx is offline
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Default 04-08-2019, 09:56 AM

Hey Traf,

Do you mind expanding a little bit on this?
I just did my OFHG as well, and in all the write-ups I reviewed, none covered this.

Turn the engine w/ the starter? If so, what period of time?

I'm trying to picture what part of the engine specifically needs this priming. Is it really just about pushing air out of the oil 'lines'?


--

2008 335i Convertible, E93, N54, A/T (190,000+ km)
Wheels: 322 | Tires: R.275/35r18, F.245/40r18
TUNE: JB4/Trebila | 24 PSI | 100% Meth via dual BM5 | 94 Octane
BMS: JB4, Map 6 | WMI | 5" FMIC | OCC | DCI | Cowel Filters
TMAP: 3.5 barr
xHP Stage 3 (v2.0)
VRSF CP | HKS BOV
RB PCV Valve
NGK 5992 Plugs @ .020

Maintenance:
2018 - A/T Replaced | Plugs | Ign Coils | Walnut Blasting
2019 - Index 12 Injectors | VCG | OFHG & O-rings | Alternator w/ Clutch Pulley | Water Pump & TStat
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Traf Traf is offline
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Default 04-08-2019, 10:09 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by codesx
Hey Traf,

Do you mind expanding a little bit on this?
I just did my OFHG as well, and in all the write-ups I reviewed, none covered this.

Turn the engine w/ the starter? If so, what period of time?

I'm trying to picture what part of the engine specifically needs this priming. Is it really just about pushing air out of the oil 'lines'?
Unplug injectors, turn engine with starter for 30sec to prime to oiling system.
Then you good to go.
I guess you introduce air when you do major work like that, also, why not do it really ? Quick enough piece of mind


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Citadel Citadel is offline
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Default 04-08-2019, 08:38 PM

New guy here, maybe a crap question, but how much more effect would the OFHG have versus an oil change? Seems like both drain fluids, replace parts, then top off oil, and drive. I always thought you primed for replacement of rotating parts. Not trying to be rude, just want to learn.
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Traf Traf is offline
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Default 04-08-2019, 10:25 PM

Well OP didn't prime and he spun a bearing, i guess this answers that.


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Mr. T Mr. T is offline
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Default 04-14-2019, 12:13 AM

Just to throw my .02 into this, I didn't prime on my 08 135 when I did my ofhg close to 97k and the old girl has been golden.
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THE BEAST THE BEAST is offline
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Default 04-14-2019, 12:26 PM

Even if you primed with the starter, it still BASICALLY the same as starting the engine. True priming of an oil system is to get the oil to all moving parts / rotating assembly BEFORE it moves. Like a SBC or Ford. Pull distributor, prime with a hand held drill. This turns the oil pump WITHOUT turning crank, rods, camshaft, etc and lubricates them so they are not dry upon start up. I believe this was just bad luck.
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Default 04-14-2019, 12:37 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamsolo135
Yeah the engine ran for about 30 minutes, issue only happed after I started to drive to the car wash.
No knocking or strange sounds on idle ? If it were a oil starvation issue after replacing gaskets, you would no doubt hear a noisier engine due to no lubrication. Even if for just a second or 2. Even then, spinning a bearing would be crappy luck. I have heard MANY engines over the years started on low oil. Instantly you hear lifters and top end generally noisy. Add oil to them and they run fine. I am talking about different engines / owners / manufacturers/ mileage, etc.
I once was with a friend who had his oil changed at a quick lube place. They didnt tighten the drain plug enough. Oil spewed out in the middle of the road. Replaced plug, added oil, truck ran with zero issues.
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Alex@abrhouston Alex@abrhouston is offline
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Default 04-15-2019, 06:44 AM

This is a known issue, priming the oil system correctly could've prevented this. It is prevalent with any NG6 and NG8 engine oiling system, and happens quite frequently to inexperienced and experienced shops. Bearings wipe out even after priming the system.

You'll need to pull the engine, head, crank and replace the rod spun, grind the crank and reassemble at minimum now.


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JuniorB JuniorB is offline
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Default 04-15-2019, 07:39 AM

Unless it specifically states to prime an engine after an oil housing reseal, this is absolutely not true. If your engine hasn’t started in months, then yes, of course, but not for a job like this. If this had the slightest truth, you would have to prime the engine after every oil service. Without looking at the bearing, if there was wear before this or not. If the bearing was scored to the point in which it seized the crank, chances are this bearing received no oil, as when a car is started, oil pressure is within seconds. With the info given, chances are walnut shells, plugged up the squirters, and limited oil to that cylinder.
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codesx codesx is offline
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Default 04-16-2019, 09:41 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by JuniorB
Unless it specifically states to prime an engine after an oil housing reseal, this is absolutely not true. If your engine hasn’t started in months, then yes, of course, but not for a job like this. If this had the slightest truth, you would have to prime the engine after every oil service. Without looking at the bearing, if there was wear before this or not. If the bearing was scored to the point in which it seized the crank, chances are this bearing received no oil, as when a car is started, oil pressure is within seconds. With the info given, chances are walnut shells, plugged up the squirters, and limited oil to that cylinder.

Based on my reasoning, I'm with you. Removing the OFH and replacing the gasket won't try out all the oil on the engine's internal parts. From the engine's perspective, it's turning it off for a day, then back on.

I let my car sit over the winter, changed the OFHG and VCG along with many other items, including chemical valve cleaning. Car started on first crank, all 6 cyl.

However, after reading this post, I will do some priming of the oil before starting it after sitting next winter. (I will read up on ideal methods, though I would suspect turning it with the starter motor is slow enough that damage would not occur before the oil is everywhere, and the ignition can be engaged)


** EDIT ** The only theory to the contrary I have would require digging into the oil-flow diagrams. Perhaps with the OFH removed, air gets into the oil line and takes some time to purge. Maybe if somehow this air bubble gets to the oil pickup (vacuum side) it could let the pump spin. However, if this is downstream (which I imagine it is in the car), then a bubble should just be expelled. Perhaps this 'bubble theory' is what can affect the other models mentioned. (dangerous on the pickup, irrelevant on the output side)


--

2008 335i Convertible, E93, N54, A/T (190,000+ km)
Wheels: 322 | Tires: R.275/35r18, F.245/40r18
TUNE: JB4/Trebila | 24 PSI | 100% Meth via dual BM5 | 94 Octane
BMS: JB4, Map 6 | WMI | 5" FMIC | OCC | DCI | Cowel Filters
TMAP: 3.5 barr
xHP Stage 3 (v2.0)
VRSF CP | HKS BOV
RB PCV Valve
NGK 5992 Plugs @ .020

Maintenance:
2018 - A/T Replaced | Plugs | Ign Coils | Walnut Blasting
2019 - Index 12 Injectors | VCG | OFHG & O-rings | Alternator w/ Clutch Pulley | Water Pump & TStat
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JuniorB JuniorB is offline
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Default 04-16-2019, 10:14 AM

These all seem logical thoughts, sounds like digging into the unknown. The n52,54,and 55 all share the same oil filter housings, pumps, and bearings. I just done rods bearing, and blast on my n54 on a stand, I can see with the pump in the way how is under the pump, if lubrication was the issue, I’d guess this is the one that would go, everything else is exposed. What did happen to me was, during blasting, I felt the motor lock, mind you it’s on a stand with no accessories, I haven’t done the bearings at this point. What I ended up doing is pulling the plugs,and blowing from there down, and vise versa. The shells were stuck in the valves, all it took was a speck, but this is expected, and usually burns off, meant to do no harm. There definitely is more to what happened, still sounds like what you had done had nothing to do with it.
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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 04-16-2019, 11:14 AM

I've always been interested to know the difference between:

a) unplugging the injectors and letting the starter turn the engine over without the engine actually firing.

b) just starting the engine.

Wouldn't both result in rotating parts moving while dry for just a brief moment either way?


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