N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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tahoerdr tahoerdr is offline
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Car: 2008 335xi e92
Default 12-07-2016, 11:51 PM

I just posted before finding your thread. #6 leaking cylinder as well. Have a read below. Please keep us updated on your progress. Did either of you get quotes for replacement?

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43936
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(#27)
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Wheeliej Wheeliej is offline
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Default 02-24-2017, 08:41 AM

yea have the new engine in cranks but doesn't start but I don't have the radiator connected or the trans cooler I just wanted to see if it would start before I put the whole front end back on do you think that would cause no spark should I just bolt everything back on and try don't want to have to take it all back off the front did you have any problems with the engine starting to I have to prime anything or do anything special if it did start without the coolant I would have turned it off right away
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(#28)
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bebo109 bebo109 is offline
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Car: 2009 535i
Default 02-24-2017, 11:10 AM

Mine started up just fine after putting everything back together.
It was a little rough at first, but im thinking it was because the gas might have gotten stale.
I filled up at a local gas station, and she was good again.

I might have to pull the engine out again, because it seems that one or both of my turbos are leaking oil into the exhaust

I swear, if its not one thing its another with this car!


Current Mods: JB4 G5 ISO, Stage 2 Hybrid Turbos, USA PUMP Flash, DCI's, VRSF FMIC, RBTurbo High Flow Silicone Turbo Inlets, ER Charge Pipe, Forge Diverter Valves, BMS OCC, RBTurbo PCV Valve, NGK Gapped Plugs, Index 12 fuel injectors.
All this because: "I wanna go fast" - Ricky Bobby
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(#29)
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Wheeliej Wheeliej is offline
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Default 02-24-2017, 12:10 PM

Did you have a JB4 installed when you fired it up I might have some wires mixed up I gotta check tonight I just want to hear the thing start I'm so bummed, as for you are you gunna rebuild turbos or get new ones do you have dp's
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(#30)
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bebo109 bebo109 is offline
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Default 02-24-2017, 01:24 PM

I kept my JB4 installed and never removed it during the whole process.
I'm on the fence about rebuilding or getting new ones. Time is an issue since this is my daily driver.
Pulling out the engine and being able to just swap turbos would be much quicker that rebuilding my turbos (i think).

I have ******* DP's btw.


Current Mods: JB4 G5 ISO, Stage 2 Hybrid Turbos, USA PUMP Flash, DCI's, VRSF FMIC, RBTurbo High Flow Silicone Turbo Inlets, ER Charge Pipe, Forge Diverter Valves, BMS OCC, RBTurbo PCV Valve, NGK Gapped Plugs, Index 12 fuel injectors.
All this because: "I wanna go fast" - Ricky Bobby
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(#31)
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Wheeliej Wheeliej is offline
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Default 02-25-2017, 11:11 AM

Got the car started sounds a little rough on idle not sure if I might have o2 sensors reversed not sure if it would make car idle iradically also I was having a lot of trouble with the left intercooler connection seems to me like it's way to close to the radiator hose near it not the big rad hose but the small one it was super difficult to connect both of them I finally got it but it's practically rubbing on top and the small rubber connector that connects to the intercooler the one one with the three metal rings around it seems to be kinked when I have the intercooler connected, after work today I'm gunna mess with it some more I also have a bunch of light blaring on the dash it was 4 am when I started it so didn't get to see really what was going on will update tonight
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(#32)
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LoveHateN54 LoveHateN54 is offline
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Default 03-06-2017, 01:16 AM

Guys, I'm new here, sorry to gatecrash your thread...go gentle ;-)

I too am having to remove my engine from my 335i, due to the crank bolt having come loose. I started down the path of a rebuild (by just removing my head in situ) but have now decided to buy a replacement engine and swap it out. Anyway, I've got a fair bit of the front of my car off and am now at the radiator, air conditioner condenser, trans cooler stage... Now is it possible to swing the condenser out of the way, or am I going to have to undo the ***** and discharge the system (presumably that is what Cerbera did, looking at the photos)? Any tips on the process? Thanks.
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(#33)
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Wheeliej Wheeliej is offline
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Default 03-06-2017, 08:01 AM

I just recently did my swap ( first time on any car) I took off the condenser it's a lot easier to have everything out of the way your should be more straight forward I had the x drive so had to take the cv axles off going thru the oil pan, hardest part was getting to the top trans bolts you need a really long extension and a swivel socket to get those from under the car on the left and right side of the tranny, I took the subframe bolts off and lowered it not sure if you have to do it but made it easy for label every single bolt and group them, also get new transmission bolts they sometimes break very fragile aluminum good luck and let us know how it goes, I got a lot of help on here so I feel the need to return the favor lol
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(#34)
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LoveHateN54 LoveHateN54 is offline
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Default 03-07-2017, 12:39 AM

Thanks man for the tips. I'm actually intending to bring the motor and trans (auto) out in one piece as 5th slips a bit and I've bought a new trans. Any thoughts on bringing them out together? Probably going to be easier than trying to access that bolt... How did you discharge the aircon? The greeny in me isn't too keen on that but then if I was a proper greeny I wouldn't have a 335i ;-)

Last edited by LoveHateN54; 03-07-2017 at 12:44 AM..
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(#35)
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Mathew Mathew is offline
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Default 03-19-2017, 04:07 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bebo109
Here she is:

Attachment 56819
What bolts did you use to mount the engine onto the engine stand?
I was told that the aluminum bell housing bolts would not be safe to support the weight of the engine.
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(#36)
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Wheeliej Wheeliej is offline
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Default 03-19-2017, 05:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew
What bolts did you use to mount the engine onto the engine stand?
I was told that the aluminum bell housing bolts would not be safe to support the weight of the engine.
Buy stell bolts from hardware store don't use the bolts your going to mount tranny with
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(#37)
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LoveHateN54 LoveHateN54 is offline
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Default 04-15-2017, 01:51 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew
What bolts did you use to mount the engine onto the engine stand?
I was told that the aluminum bell housing bolts would not be safe to support the weight of the engine.
I just got my new (used) engine mounted on an engine stand today. I used 4 stainless m12 x 110mm bolts plus 5mm or so of spacers in the form of washers...the stand fittings consumed about 70mm of the bolt shaft. Stainless probably isn't required but my hardware store didn't have other suitable options...I assume you'd want high tensile.
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(#38)
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LoveHateN54 LoveHateN54 is offline
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Default 04-15-2017, 01:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveHateN54
Thanks man for the tips. I'm actually intending to bring the motor and trans (auto) out in one piece as 5th slips a bit and I've bought a new trans. Any thoughts on bringing them out together? Probably going to be easier than trying to access that bolt... How did you discharge the aircon? The greeny in me isn't too keen on that but then if I was a proper greeny I wouldn't have a 335i ;-)
To answer my own question, I paid a mobile aircon crowd to come to my house and remove the gas...was about $US40 well spent I think.

I'm hoping to pull the engine and auto transmission out in one hit this weekend.
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(#39)
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LoveHateN54 LoveHateN54 is offline
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Default 04-16-2017, 04:46 AM

Managed to get the engine and trans out today, all on my lonesome (ok, maybe the wife was offering some really helpful words of wisdom...!).

There seem to be multiple ways to pull the engines out in these things, but given I'm replacing the trans too, I'm happy I did it this way. As you can see from the pics, I brought out most of the ancillaries with it, along with those primary exhaust sections (wouldn't want to say that swear word) and O2 sensors. Bear in mind I'd previously removed the head, but I don't know that that would have made much odds.

The main challenge during the actual removal was getting the outermost (rear) DP past the engine mount and steering gear - you guys with LHD don't know how lucky you are! I had to use a fairly steep rate of incline to get it out and over that bit - the engine load leveler was invaluable for this maneuvering . When I come to do the install, I may look at putting that DP on after/during the job. I have active steering for what it's worth.









Last edited by LoveHateN54; 04-16-2017 at 05:11 AM..
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(#40)
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kfdave kfdave is offline
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Default chain connected to two hook - 12-30-2019, 01:11 AM

What else did you attach the chain to besides the tow hook to lift it out ?
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(#41)
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Vertigo Vertigo is offline
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Default 12-30-2019, 07:24 AM

I put a few bellhousing bolts back in a used those.


2008 335i stock
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(#42)
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LoveHateN54 LoveHateN54 is offline
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Default 01-11-2020, 05:09 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kfdave
What else did you attach the chain to besides the tow hook to lift it out ?
I honestly can't remember, sorry. I don't think it was bellhousing bolts as suggested by vertigo, as in this instance the trans was still attached. As per the photos, I used an old seatbelt at the back and it looks like I had it attached at 2 points. I may have put a couple of headbolts back in (as the head was off) and used them for the removal, but didn't have that luxury putting the replacement engine and trans in. You'll figure it out, but the engine balancer was a must, especially to help navigate over the RHD steering gear.
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