N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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Default Best way to support engine during turbo replacement? - 11-28-2015, 01:55 PM

Those of you that have attempted your own Pure Turbos stage 2 install or a full turbo replacement, what tools / method have you used for supporting the engine? Since my car will be in the garage all winter I'm attempting this. I have it to the point now where I need to remove that motor mount. Any tips would be really helpful.
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Default 11-28-2015, 02:45 PM

What I did was jacked up the front sides so I could place ramps under both front wheels (this was for piece of mind). Then you can run a jack under the engine. Transfer case works good for jack on xi, oil pan works as well for a jack stand. I just used folded up cardboard form a box in between the oil pan/transfer case and jack/stand. You'll want to keep the car off the ramps (up on the jackstands, just above the ramps - to keep the suspension unloaded) if you have a subframe to drop but doesn't look like you do.

My jacks didn't leak on the sides so I kept it in the air on them. I just had it barely above the jacks enough that they can shift, doesn't need to be higher.

For the motor mount, you'll probably want to jack the engine up a bit I imagine. On xi I lower my subframe so don't really need to go up.
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Default 11-28-2015, 02:46 PM

You'll want 2 of these but you can get by with cardboard or whatever if needed. The jack points are all replaceable (1 of mine was broke when I got my car, the other I chipped swapping turbos and using the cardboard - so they're getting replaced).

http://burgertuning.com/BMW_jack_pad_adapter.html
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Default 11-28-2015, 03:14 PM

Important side note: Always use a jackstand under the engine. Some jacks will leak over a period of a few hours. Best to just have 1 sitting under there for piece of mind with a jack and if you do leave it, you can position it so it will let the engine slowly lower onto the jackstand when the jack leaks.
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steve.kodra steve.kodra is offline
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Default This is what I used. Works great! - 11-28-2015, 05:48 PM

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

It rests on both fender channels.

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Default 11-28-2015, 05:55 PM

I was thinking about just putting a jack under the engine but I'd really like a way to hold it from above so I have more room to work. I've seen some pictures online of a tool that straddles the engine bay but no idea where they got it or how it actually connects to the engine.
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Default 11-28-2015, 05:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve.kodra
That's pretty much what I had in mind, and I saw that on Harbor Freight, but I wanted to make sure that would work. Have you used this one?
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Default 11-28-2015, 07:14 PM

I have used it and will be using it again to put on my RB intake piping. Works like a charm! Get you tow hook out of the trunk, pull the valve cover and screw it in the head.
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Default 11-28-2015, 07:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve.kodra
THIS^
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Default 11-28-2015, 11:19 PM

I've had the best luck holding it with my left hand and doing the work with my right since I'm right handed.
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Default 11-29-2015, 10:53 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dawhiz
oil pan works as well for a jack stand.
No. This isn't some old chevy with a stamped steel oil pan. This has a cast aluminum oil pan that easily cracks. They should never be used to support the weight of an engine. Just because you've "never had a problem" this way or whatever other excuse people love to use, it doesn't mean you're not gonna end up cracking one of these things. And the reason why you never read about people cracking them this way is because people are far too embarrassed to admit they've done something so stupid. Instead, they tell people they "hit a rock" or some other lie.
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Default 11-29-2015, 02:15 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corrupted
No. This isn't some old chevy with a stamped steel oil pan. This has a cast aluminum oil pan that easily cracks. They should never be used to support the weight of an engine. Just because you've "never had a problem" this way or whatever other excuse people love to use, it doesn't mean you're not gonna end up cracking one of these things. And the reason why you never read about people cracking them this way is because people are far too embarrassed to admit they've done something so stupid. Instead, they tell people they "hit a rock" or some other lie.
Here's a look at what I was working with on N54 & xi (which means transfer case as well):

http://prussianmotors.com/empower/images/inv_007879.jpg (found on google)

Rwd/n55 not as beefy? Obviously you wouldn't want to just drop it on it and having folded up cardboard from a box spreads the load and no metal to metal.
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Default 12-02-2015, 10:15 PM

What's your point? It's just cheap cast aluminum, it's not a load-bearing part. If you want to risk one of these cracking - and they do crack VERY easy - that's your prerogative, but don't go recommending that to other people. These forums are to HELP people, not teach people how to be hacks.
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Default 12-02-2015, 10:54 PM

I just stuck a 2x4 between sub frame and motor. Crib that Bish


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Default 12-04-2015, 02:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newguy123
I just stuck a 2x4 between sub frame and motor. Crib that Bish
That's not a bad idea. Unrelated questions... Did you have to remove the vacuum unit before you could get the turbo out? Did you run into any other snags along the way? How was it getting the mount back in? I'm to the point now where I'm ready to remove the mount. Probably doing it this weekend.
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Default 12-04-2015, 03:11 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by loesch
That's not a bad idea. Unrelated questions... Did you have to remove the vacuum unit before you could get the turbo out? Did you run into any other snags along the way? How was it getting the mount back in? I'm to the point now where I'm ready to remove the mount. Probably doing it this weekend.
no, take dp out, pop one of the many coolant lines lol then take it all out of the way water pump tstat etc. support motor with a jack or scissor style lift to take pressure off the motor mount then un bolt it. it comes out and goes back in really easy. then slide a 2x4 in there and slowly let it down. getting to all those pesky copper turbofold nuts is a little time consuming haha. keep the old ones and count them as you take them off to make sure you have the same number as the replacements so you dont have a hidden one that holds you up. take oil feed/return lines off/ WG vaccum line and once all the turbofold bols are out it comes out the bottom. its tight and you get oily esp if youre doing it on the ground with jacks but it comes out feel free to pm me for any more questions ill answer as best as i can


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Default 12-04-2015, 03:48 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newguy123
no, take dp out, pop one of the many coolant lines lol then take it all out of the way water pump tstat etc. support motor with a jack or scissor style lift to take pressure off the motor mount then un bolt it. it comes out and goes back in really easy. then slide a 2x4 in there and slowly let it down. getting to all those pesky copper turbofold nuts is a little time consuming haha. keep the old ones and count them as you take them off to make sure you have the same number as the replacements so you dont have a hidden one that holds you up. take oil feed/return lines off/ WG vaccum line and once all the turbofold bols are out it comes out the bottom. its tight and you get oily esp if youre doing it on the ground with jacks but it comes out feel free to pm me for any more questions ill answer as best as i can
Thanks a lot! Yeah I'm doing it on jack stands. Already got a coolant shower. Excited for oil next. Haha.
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Default 12-04-2015, 04:37 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by loesch
Thanks a lot! Yeah I'm doing it on jack stands. Already got a coolant shower. Excited for oil next. Haha.
HAHA! the coolant shower is much worse then the oil


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