Rear axle nuts were torqued to spec (as hard as possible without snapping the breaker bar) since the car is now on the ground.
Rebled the clutch again (again again) and achieved more satisfactory results, might do it again down the line. Used some plumbers tape and zip ties instead of the $180 BMW Special tool.
Spec 3+ clutch and SMFW were making an odd mechanical groaning noise NOT THE DIESEL CHATTER (which everyone kept telling me even though I already specified it was a different noise). I think something was sticking as the groan was linked to rotation and magically stopped happening with a couple clutch engagements, it popped up again and then disappeared, components were installed dry as per instructions so I will keep my eye on it.
Rear pull rods got a fresh coat of paint and were installed with the strut brace, you can see why I needed to trim the large heat sink on the M5 LSD.
Engine bay is not fully reassembled with PCV, OCC, strut brace, and cooling shroud reinstalled. It looks SO much better with the DSC pump out of there, really happy with the results.
Blue painter's tape was removed from them fenders. +5hp.
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
You said the wagon shares most of it's suspension with the m5. Does this apply to the 535xi too?
Honestly, I have never looked at a 535xi (sedan) diagrams much so I don't have an answer off the top of my head, sorry. RealOEM.com is the reference I recommend for finding that answer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BevsM3
Absolutely amazing job!!!
Many thanks!
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
Snuck down the street to a local father/son repair shop to have them fabricate a transmission mount.
While the wagon was on a lift I snapped a couple pics of the undercarriage.
Completed trans support built to connect my oem 535xi Transfer case support mounting points to the 335i trans and UUC mounts. It is just what I wanted: reliable, serviceable, and economical. Strictly business.
My pedal trim needed to have a slit cut to allow for clutch pedal travel. A dremel made quick work of that. As you can see the foam piece was already there for the 3rd pedal.
I would almost rather install turbos than this center console, I hate it.
BEFORE
AFTER
At last, a manual transmission.
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
With the trans support installed and shake-down period up next I turned my focus to software; pulling module codes, updating JB4/MHD BEFs, and resetting some adaptions
Wagon is currently running 91 pump gas with the port injection by passed and JB4 in Map 5.
Unfortunately it looks like there is a break in the PT-CAN as I have a few errors linked to the SZL and I think my DSC module is the culprit, it no longer shows up in INPA or NCSE. It did before so maybe something came loose when I was finalizing my DSC hydraulic lines? :\
There is also a clutch switch and brake light error which points to wiring for the MT. Reverse lights DO NOT work but wagon starts with clutch pressed in.
As it is the engine feels smooth and strong, I can feel the difference with the new engine mounts, upgraded trans and diff mounts, and my new/reinforced shifter mounts, everything feels tight and vivid without harsh. I get what sounds like a hint of diff whine on decel but that is the only noticeable downside to the firmer bushings.
The wagon makes all the right noises with the Tial BOV and a manual trans. The ST 335xi I drove while my wagon was being worked on has the HKS and I can't stand the noise of that thing, it is borderline embarrassing for me. It sounds like a sneezing hamster where the Tial sounds like, well pressurized air being released. No squeaky toys here.
I sold my old quad projector headlights to a fellow E61 owner which means I have to whip some up for my wagon. My new build will look similar to the last iteration but with a black eyebrow and some REALLY sick HID projectors retrofitted for the low beam, my personal favorite: SC430 projectors.
SC430 output:
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
To be road legal in CA you need a hood and functional headlights with indicators. In anticipation for my upcoming headlight build I installed dual wiring harnesses/relays as I will have quad HID projectors.
I still need to the new projectors into my housings so in the mean time I will run the oem Hella projectors. Temp setup complete! No lens needed!
Hood going back on, not particularly easy with one person.
My aftermarket roundel was in rough shape and literally fell apart. I said F-it and Plasti-dipped it until I find a better solution.
Hood is .6mm crooked but I will realign it once the bumper is on so I can make sure everything is perfect.
Received a metal clutch fork pivot which will replace the oem plastic unit and offer a more reliable clutch activation down the road.
The eyebrows were removed from the lens, disassembled, and the acrylic LED tube was frosted.
Headlight trim is painted and curing, I went with a "special" textured finish.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RUCe4066dlN3OcISwkuU2JClGHrr7YWHHNgLXsjhsHGukH7473 4U6jdkW85Yb26N78e6jl2vrxchD5Ns38CswwU9YwdNPjVOcpya pkKNrY8P9GBI3f***vMXn7wMJuEbibqsCyQhTsWetEMQ67sfIb 0P9tfMWW_LJ3PseAr7AsUmaACW-4DUJqEJR9Z16O2UpXYT_VY5vTibSDlut3KUqzNs9z7QjMjyRvs L_JcpCC2v7NqxQvZ4aLaEZH0fOb1d-ZXWGy8_vow4YXFX1uwD_wnpCPCwzMHVi4_keKrZzSnc1T6ucc0 oY_1KHsQ6q7yudy22LPUFdqfYqJES9dbXnmvMXKpwCGt5OkgIR hSINaF3K9RQNcB_bF7RzpelV3TD5rfzknp1hjf9cHBNJZdDYZ9 dSSU86nU0mKT6eZehQ-0NnvR0PF4zNME3buQswEfDhw-6jrDLUV6GAlS_EAG4HCO-5xSYDjN0tAWgx8fz0xYGeBstZx3HbVImAiI1CLCFXVx8sK7d8c jnknuQ-uYrNnDWV_Kdz07eROxhwIWeVC4dF8LkGW4_vTnj4nBc6a1TLY0 R_hNsml6YgLfdQW3jMnxKCAWZd2_J8VweYoB34p66S8UG3RrOa A=w1318-h988-no[/IMG]
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
I have been following this since the start and find your build amazing. Keep up the good work!
Thank you.
Been breaking in the clutch, about 100 miles to go of engagement-heavy city driving to reach to golden 500 mile mark. Although I must admit there have been a couple WOT 3rd gear pulls to log.
A couple pics of the wagon being a wagon.
Evan
At Lowes
Weekend hike in Orange County with the squad.
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
Evan, when you bought you 335 motor, did you use that oil pan and pick up? The other nite I had a buyer for the awd oil pan and two things I noticed. One, the ps pump bracket has two bolt holes on the xi pan, the 335 had one, and I noticed the pickup tube is at a different degree. Are the 335 and 535rwd n54 pans the same as the pick ups? I have a ps pump from a 335 that I may use, I'm also using a n54 rwd pan as this was the first motor I bought to build, but buying a low mileage wrecked 535xi was cheaper. Thank you for your notice,.....Chris
Evan, when you bought you 335 motor, did you use that oil pan and pick up? The other nite I had a buyer for the awd oil pan and two things I noticed. One, the ps pump bracket has two bolt holes on the xi pan, the 335 had one, and I noticed the pickup tube is at a different degree. Are the 335 and 535rwd n54 pans the same as the pick ups? I have a ps pump from a 335 that I may use, I'm also using a n54 rwd pan as this was the first motor I bought to build, but buying a low mileage wrecked 535xi was cheaper. Thank you for your notice,.....Chris
The replacement 335is motor I bought was damaged and the oil pan was included in that. I ended up reusing the 335i oil pick up but bought a used 535i oil pan off eBay. What what I was there is no major difference between 335i and 535i oil pans.
Evan
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
My trans was "temporarily" installed up to this point with old hardware, insulations and shields omitted to make the trans support fabrication easier. Now that the support is done and the clutch is broken in I took the opportunity to install the final pieces and also (hopefully) address some issue I have been having with my clutch.
Issues
- When the wagon is cold there is some friction in the clutch, with the pedal pressed to the floor and trying to select a gear, the wagon will start to move forward without the gear fully selected and clutch still pressed. Sometimes at idle with the clutch out shifter out of gear the rear wheels will slowly spin while on jackstands. There is clearly some unwanted friction going on, maybe clutch is too thick? Oddly enough the issue disappears at warmer operating temps.
- When the wagon is cold it is nearly impossible to select gears from a stand still, the shifter won't get into gear without using uncomfortably strong force. Currently running Royal Purple Syncromax but might experiment with other fluids to see if it helps. People are quick to point at the gear oil being cold and syncros not lubricated and that certainly might be part of it but if there is friction with the clutch as noted above then it would likely be hard to get into gear anyway regardless of fluid.
This weekend in addition to "finalizing" the transmission and surrounding trim pieces I wanted to inspect the clutch and various components to make sure everything is installed correctly. I didn't find anything abnormal which might contribute to my friction issue.
Trans coming out (again).
Insulation and shielding to reinstall
With my merge collector off I took the opportunity to clean it up a bit and replaced the gaskets.
My clutch was engaging in the first 15% of travel so I added a couple washers to my fork pivot, 2 washers was the way to go as engagement is now around 80% travel which is what I am used to with BMW clutches.
New pressure plate bolts and trans mounting hardware
Even from my relatively light break-in driving which only consisted of a handful of pulls and no 1st gear rips or launches there is some signs of stress on the guibo. I will be keeping my eyes on this as it now may be the weakest link of the drivetrain.
As you can see with my exhaust hanger and the oem heat shield the architecture is a bit different with my transfer case out of the picture. Exhaust is nice and solid with it's over mounts and v-bands so no worries there but I trimmed the damaged heat shield so it won't cause unnecessary drag.
BEFORE
AFTER
Pic with everything installed
Took a little cruise up PCH with a friend and grabbed a beer at Ballast Point Brewing.
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
Since long term reliability is a big focus of mine with this build the RB Low-Load PCV was high on the priority list.
I have had very pleasant experiences working with Rob so far, he has allowed me to purchase some items a la carte and in this instance when I was getting ready to order the external PCV kit he reminded me that I have the EOS manifold which has some npt ports which can be used as the vac source and replace the throttle body fitting which is standard equipment in the kit and consequently, lower the price. I really appreciate transparency like that.
I decided not to plug the head at this time, I might do that later.
Mishimoto OCC and the necessary RB goodies. I opted to use Vibrant heater hose so it would match the other hoses in my engine bay. #details
I used some small stainless steel hardware I had on hand to mount the OCC to the plastic partition between the engine bay and the area where the master cylinder resides.
Mounted
Real tight fit but no major contact. My AN fitting for the Tial has seen better days...
Real tight fit with all the hoses at the back of the valve cover so I had to make some room
Preventative modifications FTW
Nice and tucked away
CLEAN!
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC
Dude, No BS I'll keep the praise short. I would love an M5 but with our N54 powerplant. Too cool. Regardless, I apologize if this has been asked, I have a 2008 E61 Touring (like you) I want a decent, yet affordable m5 front end, I however learned the HARD way, stock M5 bumpers don't bolt up due to fender width Dohhh! Yours is sexy, where can I purchase it? These aftermarket jobs have me EXTREMELY worried about fitment and it turning into a bondo/sanding fest! Sadly, budget remains a factor, with a FMIC on the horizon. Please, any advice you have to make my fellow E61 look anywhere close to yours?!? Many Thanks!
Dude, No BS I'll keep the praise short. I would love an M5 but with our N54 powerplant. Too cool. Regardless, I apologize if this has been asked, I have a 2008 E61 Touring (like you) I want a decent, yet affordable m5 front end, I however learned the HARD way, stock M5 bumpers don't bolt up due to fender width Dohhh! Yours is sexy, where can I purchase it? These aftermarket jobs have me EXTREMELY worried about fitment and it turning into a bondo/sanding fest! Sadly, budget remains a factor, with a FMIC on the horizon. Please, any advice you have to make my fellow E61 look anywhere close to yours?!? Many Thanks!
My front end is actually all oem M5 stuff, wider fenders and wider bumper, I just deleted the side vents for a cleaner look. Vents, wings, canards, lips are not my thing unless they are functional or look REALLY good, the M5 vents were a huge turn off since they are NOT functional from the factory, silly engineers.
I bought my front end components used off eBay and had them repainted, not "cheap" like a replica bumper but definitely a fraction of what the parts cost new.
IMO the best bang for your buck would be to find a used m-sport bumper, styling wise I think it looks better than the M5 bumper I just wanted the added width of the M5 parts. The M-sport bumper has sharper styling and better looking lip options.
Evan
N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes, M5 Rear Suspension
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Trans Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, UUC SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Lines +Ethanol Sensor
- JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Inlets, AR ***, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB Ext. PCV, BMS OCC