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BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
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Default 04-17-2016, 12:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcafs
Thanks for posting a stock datalog.

Everything looks good except I noticed that your short term fuel trim variance is HUGE between bank1 and bank2. Bank 1 is getting too much fuel and trims are going very negative while bank 2 trims are positive.

Like 30 points difference in some places.

Even though the trims are skewed.....they are doing their job, because your AFR's between banks is spot on.

Have some of your injectors been replaced?
Thanks for verifying! And yeah I see most of the time when people post logs, a stock log is requested but not had, so I did a stock one just in case haha..

And yes about 5 months ago I updated to all index 12 injectors.. I coded them properly, and no noticeable misfires or codes thrown..

Do u think I'm ok for stage 2 flash with having 3" ******* **'s, vrsf CP and HKS BOV, alpina flash, and DCI..?? I havent upgraded FMIC yet so I'm a bit leary as this will be my first tune and i live in south fla.

Thanks again!

Last edited by BeastMode335i; 04-17-2016 at 12:33 PM..
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dcafs dcafs is offline
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Default 04-17-2016, 03:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i
Thanks for verifying! And yeah I see most of the time when people post logs, a stock log is requested but not had, so I did a stock one just in case haha..

And yes about 5 months ago I updated to all index 12 injectors.. I coded them properly, and no noticeable misfires or codes thrown..

Do u think I'm ok for stage 2 flash with having 3" ******* **'s, vrsf CP and HKS BOV, alpina flash, and DCI..?? I havent upgraded FMIC yet so I'm a bit leary as this will be my first tune and i live in south fla.

Thanks again!
Depends on the octane in your area. Your best friend is a datalog that is the only way to know for sure.

You may want to look into using Inpa to reset your fuel adaptations with such fairly new injectors.

I had a similar gap in my fuel trims when I installed new injectors and resetting fuel adaptations helped to get them back to normal after a week or so of driving. It's a bit of a process since long-term fuel adaptations seem to be based on an average of short-term readings.....so your DME may still be skewing trims as per the old injectors.

Resetting everything and allowing the DME to re-learn sometimes clears that up.

You can run stage 2 tunes on a stock FMIC....but you will be good for one pull before it heat-soaks and the DME pulls timing. Since you are already doing that in 4th gear at 8 psi.....raising the boost with a tune is only going to add more heat and induce knock.

It is what it is.....the only workaround is to spray meth which will cool things down considerably and provide an octane improvement as well.
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BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
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Default 04-17-2016, 03:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcafs
Depends on the octane in your area. Your best friend is a datalog that is the only way to know for sure.

You may want to look into using Inpa to reset your fuel adaptations with such fairly new injectors.

I had a similar gap in my fuel trims when I installed new injectors and resetting fuel adaptations helped to get them back to normal after a week or so of driving. It's a bit of a process since long-term fuel adaptations seem to be based on an average of short-term readings.....so your DME may still be skewing trims as per the old injectors.

Resetting everything and allowing the DME to re-learn sometimes clears that up.

You can run stage 2 tunes on a stock FMIC....but you will be good for one pull before it heat-soaks and the DME pulls timing. Since you are already doing that in 4th gear at 8 psi.....raising the boost with a tune is only going to add more heat and induce knock.

It is what it is.....the only workaround is to spray meth which will cool things down considerably and provide an octane improvement as well.
Oh ok I understand, thanks for breaking that down for me.. So perhaps I should flash the stage 1 tune until I get a fmic, or you suggest not flashing anything..? I have 93 at every station and e85 is readily available as well.. I'm on stock lpfp and intercooler tho, if that makes a diff.. I have **, DCI, cp + bov, and Alpina flash so I figured I could get away with a mild tune for now and still notice a little difference.

Also I believe I did reset those adaptations but I'll do it again and do another log to share for comparison.. Should I leave the same values selected??

Thanks!
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Default 04-17-2016, 04:49 PM

Quick question: I did the JB4 PUMP BEF. From what I understand the boost targets are changed to 15 for map 1, 17 for map 2, but remain the same for map 3.
I am running Meth with an additive of 4, so my boost in map 3 is about 16.5 with the Meth. Seems as if it should be more than 1 or 2
How should I increase it? change the additive? run another map or am I totally off base here? My first flash experience.

Thanks
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Default 04-18-2016, 03:17 AM

Fml...

So I did the beta unmodified stage 1 flash.. warmed my car up and took it for about a 15 minute drive of normal driving. I get to this long stretch of road and from 3rd I decide to give it a little throttle, not even WOT but just enough to go into boost, and bam, SES starts flashing, misfire cylinders 1, 2, and 3, lambda code, and DME internal failure error code..! Please tell me my car is not fukked.. Plugs, injectors, and coils are all less than 5k miles old..
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Default 04-18-2016, 04:27 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i
Fml...

So I did the beta unmodified stage 1 flash.. warmed my car up and took it for about a 15 minute drive of normal driving. I get to this long stretch of road and from 3rd I decide to give it a little throttle, not even WOT but just enough to go into boost, and bam, SES starts flashing, misfire cylinders 1, 2, and 3, lambda code, and DME internal failure error code..! Please tell me my car is not fukked.. Plugs, injectors, and coils are all less than 5k miles old..
Logs pls


2008 e92 335i M-Sport|JB4 G5|MHD BMS BEF|BMS DCI|VRSF **|Alpina 7603537|BMS OCC|RB PCV|Stage 2 LPFP|Fuel It! ES-1 fuel lines with Ethanol Sensor and JB4 analyser|MMP Silicone Inlets|4 Bar TMAP|VRSF 7" FMIC
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BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
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Default 04-18-2016, 06:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by chatz86
Logs pls
I was only monitoring at the time I accelerated, not logging, and that's when the SES started flashing and car ran like crap.. But I pulled over and turned off the car, turned it back on to see if the problem went away and started logging at normal throttle acceleration, only to see the problem was still there..

Here's the log from when I turned the car back on and it ran like ass.. This is very light throttle in 2nd and 3rd just to limp it back home..

http://www.***********/u/beastmode335...og=0&data=4-21
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dcafs dcafs is offline
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Default 04-18-2016, 08:04 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i
Fml...

So I did the beta unmodified stage 1 flash.. warmed my car up and took it for about a 15 minute drive of normal driving. I get to this long stretch of road and from 3rd I decide to give it a little throttle, not even WOT but just enough to go into boost, and bam, SES starts flashing, misfire cylinders 1, 2, and 3, lambda code, and DME internal failure error code..! Please tell me my car is not fukked.. Plugs, injectors, and coils are all less than 5k miles old..
If I recall from your stock datalog.....bank 1 fuel trims were going deeply negative and fluctuating compared to bank 2.

That might be a clue as to why your misfire is the entire bank 1.

Sometimes when an entire bank goes out like that it is a bad mosfet in the DME.

But that is more common for the 2007 model year and typically comes with an internal DME failure code along with the misfire codes. So I think that's your problem.

You should pull the plugs on that bank and see what they look like.

If they are covered in oil - you could have a leaking valve cover gasket seeping oil down the threads.

If plugs check out, then take a look at the injectors next.

You have to follow a process of eliminating the easiest and most obvious things first.

Last edited by dcafs; 04-18-2016 at 08:10 AM..
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Default 04-18-2016, 09:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcafs
If I recall from your stock datalog.....bank 1 fuel trims were going deeply negative and fluctuating compared to bank 2.

That might be a clue as to why your misfire is the entire bank 1.

Sometimes when an entire bank goes out like that it is a bad mosfet in the DME.

But that is more common for the 2007 model year and typically comes with an internal DME failure code along with the misfire codes. So I think that's your problem.

You should pull the plugs on that bank and see what they look like.

If they are covered in oil - you could have a leaking valve cover gasket seeping oil down the threads.

If plugs check out, then take a look at the injectors next.

You have to follow a process of eliminating the easiest and most obvious things first.
Yeah from what I read it seems like it could be the DME as well, which is just my luck to screw up my ecu on my very first attempt at flashing a tune..

My injectors, plugs, turbos, valve cover, valve cover gasket, ofhg, ochg, dci, *********, are all only like two months old with less than 2k miles.. Not saying they couldn't be bad but I'm thinking it probably is my DME.. Just sucks, but oh well that's my luck I guess..

Could the fuel thing you mentioned be related to my HPFP or LPFP at all..??

My car's been literally running like butter, and than I flashed that Stage 1 v6.1 tune and bam, bit the dust.. ;/
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BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
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Default 04-18-2016, 11:52 AM

Just as a precautionary measure, I ordered the MOSFET chips today, along with 6 new coils.. But have a question (among all the others listed above), should I leave this v6.1 tune on my car or should I attempt to flash back to stock before messing with it..??
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Default 04-18-2016, 01:32 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i
Just as a precautionary measure, I ordered the MOSFET chips today, along with 6 new coils.. But have a question (among all the others listed above), should I leave this v6.1 tune on my car or should I attempt to flash back to stock before messing with it..??
Honestly, I went back to my stock file then flashed to v.5. After about 2 days of driving, my car is driving better. My car hated the beta flash and I won't go back to it.


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Default 04-18-2016, 01:57 PM

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Originally Posted by RSicks
Honestly, I went back to my stock file then flashed to v.5. After about 2 days of driving, my car is driving better. My car hated the beta flash and I won't go back to it.
Yeah I just read that now, wish I would have read more about beta files beforehand.. And also, u never experienced this whole issue of DME failure and stuff right..??

I'm nervous to flash back to stock with all those errors in chance that something else will break or brick.!
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Default 04-19-2016, 06:07 AM

Problem found..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ig1JAS6R4Ik

Now I'm just trying to figure out if I should just replace the Injector 1 MOSFET, or all 6.. I ordered 6 new coils already and 10 MOSFET chips so I'd have spares, and those along with my MOSFET chips should be here within the next 2-3 days.. Injectors and spark plugs are basically brand new still, so I don't see needing new ones of those..

Last edited by BeastMode335i; 04-19-2016 at 06:58 AM.. Reason: wrong inj mosfet, it's 1 not 3..
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Default 04-19-2016, 06:20 AM

KR flashes are for cars with flatline post shift timing, right?


2008 135i Sport 6at
JB4 G5 ISO, MHD E85 KR, Fuel-it S1, E55 Mix, Alpina Trans Flash, afe Scoops, My own custom 2.5" inlets, ER CP, Synapse BOV, 3.5 Tmap, 7.5" Phoenix FMIC, NGK 5992, 3" BMS downtubes, N55 Mids, Berk Race, BMS OCC, 48 plate oil cooler, 36 plate trans fluid cooler, PSS, R888, Hoosier DRs.
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n54wagon n54wagon is offline
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Default 04-19-2016, 06:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i
Yeah from what I read it seems like it could be the DME as well, which is just my luck to screw up my ecu on my very first attempt at flashing a tune..

My injectors, plugs, turbos, valve cover, valve cover gasket, ofhg, ochg, dci, *********, are all only like two months old with less than 2k miles.. Not saying they couldn't be bad but I'm thinking it probably is my DME.. Just sucks, but oh well that's my luck I guess..

Could the fuel thing you mentioned be related to my HPFP or LPFP at all..??

My car's been literally running like butter, and than I flashed that Stage 1 v6.1 tune and bam, bit the dust.. ;/
I had the same exact DME problem. I took my DME apart and found the blown mosfet transistor with a multimeter. I replaced my cylinder 1 transistor and now the car is running like a dream again. The DME going down did take 3 coil packs with it...

I still have transmission issues since the MHD flash. So far my fix for that is I just drive in manual mode. It doesn't have any issues in manual mode.

If you need advice on replacing the mosfet let me know. I actually ordered 10 in case this happens again.

I find it too much of a coincidence that this is happened to both of us after v6.1 flash...

Last edited by n54wagon; 04-19-2016 at 06:51 AM..
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n54wagon n54wagon is offline
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Default 04-19-2016, 06:43 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by wooboodoo
Do you have stock AT tranny or SAT tranny in your 535?
I have the stock AT
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BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
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Default 04-19-2016, 06:47 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by n54wagon
I had the same exact DME problem. I took my DME apart and found the blown mosfet transistor with a multimeter. I replaced my cylinder 1 transistor and now the car is running lie a dream again. The DME going down did take 3 coil packs with it...

I still have transmission issues since the MHD flash. So far my fix for that is I just drive in manual mode. It doesn't have any issues in manual mode.

If you need advice on replacing the mosfet let me know. I actually ordered 10 in case this happens again.
Thanks for the feedback man I really appreciate it! I googled TV Repair, and found a local guy who said he'll do it for me for $15 so I figured that's a great deal! I was just very leary on replacing just one, or all of them, as I dont know what triggers them to go bad.. Is it weak coils..??

Luckily I did order 6 new coils so I will be replacing those prior to starting my car as well.. I'm thinking of going with a stable v5 tune though instead of the beta v6.1 tune that initiated this whole ordeal lol.. Perhaps I'm being a bit reluctant but rather not go through this again any time soon lol..
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Default 04-19-2016, 07:01 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i
Thanks for the feedback man I really appreciate it! I googled TV Repair, and found a local guy who said he'll do it for me for $15 so I figured that's a great deal! I was just very leary on replacing just one, or all of them, as I dont know what triggers them to go bad.. Is it weak coils..??

Luckily I did order 6 new coils so I will be replacing those prior to starting my car as well.. I'm thinking of going with a stable v5 tune though instead of the beta v6.1 tune that initiated this whole ordeal lol.. Perhaps I'm being a bit reluctant but rather not go through this again any time soon lol..
Honestly, I think it has a lot to do with weak coils. One of my coils was a Duralast and the others were stock bosch.

I only replaced the one transistor and so far its been great.

I've been running my car for 5 days since the DME repair and have had no issues. I took it easy for the first two days. The last couple days I've been driving it normally. I drive pretty aggressive and everything seems to be fine.

I also ordered a used DME on eBay just to be safe. If you search there are a few under $100. I paid $75 for a used DME. Its just sitting in the closet for a rainy day now.
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Default 04-19-2016, 07:51 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by n54wagon
Honestly, I think it has a lot to do with weak coils. One of my coils was a Duralast and the others were stock bosch.

I only replaced the one transistor and so far its been great.

I've been running my car for 5 days since the DME repair and have had no issues. I took it easy for the first two days. The last couple days I've been driving it normally. I drive pretty aggressive and everything seems to be fine.

I also ordered a used DME on eBay just to be safe. If you search there are a few under $100. I paid $75 for a used DME. Its just sitting in the closet for a rainy day now.
Given that it's not really hard to get to the DME and get these swapped out I'm thinking if it's coil related and I'm buying all new coils, maybe I'll just swap out that 1 bad mosfet but idk lol.. I'd hate to have all 6 replaced and introduce a possibility for another fault by installation error on the DME, especially if they test fine.. It's $15 whether I replace 1 or all 6 so I'm kinda up in the air on this at the moment, probably ask the guy when I get there and see how he feels about it too..

Also, what tune are you on?

And yes I saw all those used DME's on eBay for like $100 but I thought they were married to another VIN so we couldn't use someones old one..??
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Default 04-19-2016, 08:13 AM

"I also ordered a used DME on eBay just to be safe. If you search there are a few under $100. I paid $75 for a used DME. Its just sitting in the closet for a rainy day now."

Hello N54wagon, how would you prepare the used DME to plug and play into your car? Or even flash the used DME once installed in your car?

I've been told a used DME must be blank of data or "virgin" before the unit can be flashed with the original codes, etc.. I've been exploring some options myself, and the only source for this process is to send the original DME along with the used DME and your ignition unit and a key, to a company such as RPM Autosports and they will send back a plug & play unit. Maybe $600. Any feedback?


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Default 04-19-2016, 08:18 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i
Given that it's not really hard to get to the DME and get these swapped out I'm thinking if it's coil related and I'm buying all new coils, maybe I'll just swap out that 1 bad mosfet but idk lol.. I'd hate to have all 6 replaced and introduce a possibility for another fault by installation error on the DME, especially if they test fine.. It's $15 whether I replace 1 or all 6 so I'm kinda up in the air on this at the moment, probably ask the guy when I get there and see how he feels about it too..

Also, what tune are you on?

And yes I saw all those used DME's on eBay for like $100 but I thought they were married to another VIN so we couldn't use someones old one..??
They are married to another VIN. You can recode them pretty easily with proper software or take it to a dealer to have them recode. I just figured since it was so cheap its not a bad thing to have in my toolbox for down the road, especially because I plan on doing a lot more mods to my car over the next 6 months.

Right now I'm on the v5 93 octane stage 1. I don't think I will use another BETA, I will wait until final releases are made. I also plan on getting a custom tune once I finish all of my modding...
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BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
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Default 04-19-2016, 08:22 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by n54wagon
They are married to another VIN. You can recode them pretty easily with proper software or take it to a dealer to have them recode. I just figured since it was so cheap its not a bad thing to have in my toolbox for down the road, especially because I plan on doing a lot more mods to my car over the next 6 months.

Right now I'm on the v5 93 octane stage 1. I don't think I will use another BETA, I will wait until final releases are made. I also plan on getting a custom tune once I finish all of my modding...
Oh ok cool, I think the threads I was reading about not being able to use a diff DME were a bit outdated so that's why I didn't think we could use them..

But for under $100 you can't really beat that I suppose, and if it can be coded in my garage for free, than that's a hell of a deal..!

And yeah I am going to jump on that v5 93 octane stage 1 tune once I get this all fixed.. One thing I noticed though is most if those tunes call for a FMIC but that's the only part I don't have yet to be FBO.. I hope it doesn't make a huge difference if I run it without the FMIC upgrade..
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Default 04-19-2016, 08:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBooster
"I also ordered a used DME on eBay just to be safe. If you search there are a few under $100. I paid $75 for a used DME. Its just sitting in the closet for a rainy day now."

Hello N54wagon, how would you prepare the used DME to plug and play into your car? Or even flash the used DME once installed in your car?

I've been told a used DME must be blank of data or "virgin" before the unit can be flashed with the original codes, etc.. I've been exploring some options myself, and the only source for this process is to send the original DME along with the used DME and your ignition unit and a key, to a company such as RPM Autosports and they will send back a plug & play unit. Maybe $600. Any feedback?
I was told by a local shop they could recode a DME for around $400. They said they also needed my original DME to do it. I quit exploring this option since I have fixed my DME with the mosfet. I may research it more now, I had never heard the DME needed to be blank (I'm new to DME problems though).
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Default 04-19-2016, 08:59 AM

I've conferred with two service managers and mechanics at the dealerships and they say it can't be done unless the used unit is blank. The dealerships don't have the necessary software to do this. Companies such as RPM use pirated software from BMW itself, he suggested. Plus, the so called plug and play aspect doesn't always work as stated on their website. RPM sounds really legit to me, however.

My local dearer said that if I used a new DME it would cost $150 for the coding and $150 for install labor, etc.


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Last edited by OldBooster; 04-19-2016 at 09:02 AM.. Reason: more info
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BeastMode335i BeastMode335i is offline
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Default 04-19-2016, 09:01 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by n54wagon
I was told by a local shop they could recode a DME for around $400. They said they also needed my original DME to do it. I quit exploring this option since I have fixed my DME with the mosfet. I may research it more now, I had never heard the DME needed to be blank (I'm new to DME problems though).
Well I suppose $400 is still better than the $2500 that BMW charges... Assuming that the newly/used DME has no issues as well lol..

And yeah I'm new to this also with DME's and MOSFET's and all that stuff so perhaps someone more knowledgeable could chime in..

In my case, for someone who does this for a living they will probably look at replacing 6 MOSFET's as a piece of cake..
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