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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default Boost solenoids? - 05-22-2020, 12:37 AM

Since new turbos have been installed, I donít have typical wastegate rattle. Sounds like the flapper is clapping when accelerating from around 2000-2400rpm.

Full throttle they slam shut and only ďclapĒ once or twice.
If I ease through 2000-2500rpm itís very minimal if not at all, I mean like 2-5% throttle!
Regular acceleration to a little bit aggressive is the worst to where it echoes through the street.

I ended up with menu 10 around 4500-5000
11 around 200-400
12 around 1800-2000
Iíve tried all different menu 10 11 settings to try and eliminate this over the past year and a half with no luck.

If I go lower than 2500-3000 on menu 10 they rattle at idle and low boost
Menu 11 only changes when it happens and for how long
Not sure why my menu 12 has to be so low. If itís lower than 30 degrees out I have to take menu 12 down to around 1600 if itís warmer than 65 degrees I can run at 2000. If I go to around 2400-2800 on menu 12 it just makes to much boost and cycles PPPSSSHH, PpSsHh, PSH, psh ... .. at like 20-30% throttle ( if that makes any sense) or I get some compressor sugre.

Iíve tried cleaning soleniods thinking they may be sticking a little, but no luck there.
Tried an 8lb bov spring with no luck. To get rid of the multiple blow offs
If I go too low on menu 12 I hear it oscillating ( sounds like just one is clapping)

I donít have any issue holding boost, so IDK if it could be a weak solenoid or not?

Only other possibility I can think of is the actuators are not adjusted equally?
They boost really fast and have even had almost a vertical line on spooling up from scan to scan and donít really have a curve. It just shoots up and flattens out on target.

If thereís anything I can try and log that could help, let me know!
I just donít know?


RB 2ís - inlets - dpís - borla mids - cp/bov- stage2LPFP -Hybrid e85_bef
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Stevo585 Stevo585 is offline
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Default 05-22-2020, 07:12 AM

If you lower menu 10 to 2800 does the "Pshing" stop even though you have some rattle?


2007 e92 335i 6MT MSPORT -- DAW Stage 4 Turbos -- AD Engineering Port Injection -- VRSF Down Ps -- BMS DCI -- VRSF Inlets -- VRSF Aluminum Outlets -- ARM Chargepipe -- Turbosmart DVs -- 7" ARM FMIC -- LSD -- 335is Clutch -- BMS Short Throw -- Stage 2 Bucketless -- n20 Tmap -- Custom 3.5" Single Exit Exhaust
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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 05-23-2020, 12:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo585
If you lower menu 10 to 2800 does the "Pshing" stop even though you have some rattle?
Not if have menu 12 is in the 2400-2800 range. Any little incline or hill I go up they spool up and and no matter how lightly I try to easy of the throttle. The BOV cycles a few times or I have to accelerate a little harder and let off the throttle completely and let it blow off all at once. Even tried an 8lb spring to try and have it stay open longer

They rattle a idle and low rpm with wgdf position at 2800 or lower. With wgdc over 2200 Itís hard to get them to spool down. Lower wgdf position just changes when the clapping sound happens( in higher rpm like 2400rpm instead of the 2000rpm range when it around when it set to4500-5000) I leave the wdpf position higher cause they clap less before they close. Lower then they rattle at idle and low rpm.

Iíve even tried menu 10 to 2000
Menu 11to 0-100
And 12 anywhere from 2400-3000

Iíve tried every possible combination of 10,11,and 12
Tried taking pedal sensitivity way up with combos if 10, low and 12 high and vice veras

The only way I can get get it get it to stop cycling multiple times while cruising is to have duty cycle lower than 2200 if I go to 2600 or higher I get surge.
And when itís freezing cold out I have to go down to 1600-1800 with duty cycle. do get some ocsillation when the air temp gets warmer out and I have duty cycle very low.

Itís like one closes when it should and one doesnít and thatís making it ďclapĒ I thought maybe the solenoid was sticky so I cleaned them and sprayed a little silicone lube on them to make sure it wasnít sticking. Only thing I can think of is one is weaker but still functions. I have all new vac lines so donít think it a leak. I bought quality turbos with upgrade wastegates To try and eliminate rattle.


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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 05-23-2020, 12:44 AM

Iím going to try and mount a camera in the engine bay and try and see whatís going on with each one, but donít know if Iíll be able to tell due to vibration, or if I can get front and back in the same shot. I jus donít want to spend money for soleniods since Iím not certain thatís whatís causing it.


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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 05-23-2020, 06:45 AM

Put the 8lb spring back in it and took the car for a ride this morning. With menu 10 at 2800 still had the bov cycle multiple times only on one instance after cresting a hill. And had the clapping last from 2100-2400 rpm. Set menu 10 to 4800 where I normally keep it and claps from 2000-2200 rpm. (Wgdc was at 2600, 63 degrees out this morning)

Only when itís like 20-30 degrees or lower do I need to take wgdc way down. No matter what 10/11/12 is set to, it still ďclapsĒ I wouldít Consider it rattle, itís not like the rattle the stock turbos had. Itís like they struggle to close. Donít have any issue building or holding boost.


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Vorsprung_CJB Vorsprung_CJB is offline
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Default 05-23-2020, 10:26 AM

Could try to set your menus normally and try the anti-rattle option in FutureUseD. However...

New turbos especially plus sized usually need lower menu 10 and 12 compared to stock. You may also need slight manual duty bias adjustment through the RPM range. If they are the RB2's in your sig I would assume they shipped with the WGs adjusted correctly.

Logs?
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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 05-23-2020, 05:23 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vorsprung_CJB
Could try to set your menus normally and try the anti-rattle option in FutureUseD. However...

New turbos especially plus sized usually need lower menu 10 and 12 compared to stock. You may also need slight manual duty bias adjustment through the RPM range. If they are the RB2's in your sig I would assume they shipped with the WGs adjusted correctly.

Logs?
Set them back to 3000,1000,2800 and enabled alternative anti rattle default position just now.

Anything specific youíd like to see in a log? Wot they slam shut and hold boost till redline no problem.Itís only when trying to drive normal and 2000 rpm

Iím was cofident that they were adjusted properly, thatís why I waited almost 2 years before starting a thread. I just canít get them to stop rattling/clapping at the 2000 rpm range.


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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 05-23-2020, 07:31 PM

Turning on bit7 did not help. Actually caused rattling coming to a stop. Same as if I lower wgdf position in menu 10 below 2500.

I did forget to turn on bit6 after I turned bit 7 off and this caused the clapping on acceleration to increase and last through more rpms.

I did have a chance while going past some barriers and accerate slowly through 1600-2400 rpm range and it sounded little one shut then three seconds later the second one shut.


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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 05-24-2020, 05:28 AM

here's a couple logs. I tried default setting again, but have to turn menu 12 down to 2200(these were later in the night and temp air temp dropped to 50's, otherwise the bov starts multiple bov's while trying to cruise the car.)

And I dont understand why turning menu 10 down is causing actual rattle, (not the clapping sound when the wastegates close, what Im trying to figure out if its the solenoids, or something else)

the first 2 are light acceleration and 3rd is wot
Attached Files
File Type: csv 200523_1935_3rdgear.csv (59.8 KB, 117 views)
File Type: csv 200523_1938_3rdgear_harderaccel.csv (84.4 KB, 110 views)
File Type: csv 200523_2026_wot.csv (11.3 KB, 117 views)


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Default 05-24-2020, 09:42 AM

Things look pretty normal in the logs. Were these the RB upgraded WGs?

There are so many parts of the WG that can rattle. The hinge if there is play, the round gate can rattle in its holder, or the gate can rattle against the housing. Both vibration and exhaust pulses can cause it. Poor pressure from the solenoids might make it worse. It has always been a PITA on these cars even in the best case.

Without hearing the sound its kinda hard to say. I'm surprised you can hear anything from the WGs under any kind of heavy throttle while moving. Sure its the WGs in that situation?
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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 05-26-2020, 04:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vorsprung_CJB
Things look pretty normal in the logs. Were these the RB upgraded WGs?

There are so many parts of the WG that can rattle. The hinge if there is play, the round gate can rattle in its holder, or the gate can rattle against the housing. Both vibration and exhaust pulses can cause it. Poor pressure from the solenoids might make it worse. It has always been a PITA on these cars even in the best case.

Without hearing the sound its kinda hard to say. I'm surprised you can hear anything from the WGs under any kind of heavy throttle while moving. Sure its the WGs in that situation?
Yes, upgraded wastegates. it sounds like gate vibrating against the housing.
I only hear it right around the 2000 rpm range. If I stay over 2300 never hear it at all.

Seems to me its caused by the exhaust pulses. I thought initially it might be the silicone vacuum line. It seemed to be a little "spongy" feeling compared to the original, but dismissed it after seeing a lot of people using it too.

Since its been getting warmer out I've been able to keep menu 12 closer to 2400 and seems to help. but occasionally still get multiple blow offs at 2400 when its cooler out.

I'm going to order a 6lb bov spring and see if that helps keep bov open longer. (the vacuum line to it is tapped with a bigger fitting to the intake and I have the harder line for quick connect fittings already on it) Hopefully that helps me be able to keep WGDC a little higher than where its been.

Also get some better vacuum line that's more rigid, and go from there.

I've never tried to upload a video on here, not sure how, IDK if its just like uploading a pic or not? but you can hear it for sure in a video....I have a feeling it may be the crappy silicone vacuum line instead of weak solenoids the more I think about it.


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ToolMaker335xi ToolMaker335xi is offline
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Default 06-05-2020, 11:57 AM

Have not replaced solenoids yet, but did get some improvement! not eliminated.

When I ordered vacuum hose I ordered two 10' sections. One hose became a lot stiffer than the other. The piece going to the rear turbo stayed soft while the hose going to the front got really hard. I was able to find a leftover piece that was stiff and put in on to the rear.

When I pulled the old hose off, I realized I also left it really long. Still get some "clapping" accelerating in 3rd from like 1500rpm. But is a lot better than it was.

6lb spring made a huge difference too, able to run wgdc @2600 and blowoffs are crisp. really starting to like driving the car now than before


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