N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 04-05-2015, 04:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 535_BiTurbo
track times or dynos?
None as of yet. Similar setups have had no problem peaking the 400HP/400TQ numbers though. Hopefully a tad bit more. I'm going to track down a local Dynojet once I get my E85 numbers dialed in and fine tune some things.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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Default 04-30-2015, 08:38 AM

So what was once a small oil leak seems to be getting more aggressive. It appears to be the oil filter housing gasket that is either coupled with a rear main seal and oil pan leak, or the oil has just made it's way all the way to the rear of the engine over time. I had to add a quart of oil about 2,500 miles after my most recent oil change, and another about 2,000 miles later, so need to get this taken care of or at least under control (if its the rear main seal or oil pan, I'd rather put that off until I need to drop the sub-frame for other reasons like a turbo replacement).

I replaced the oil cooler gasket and o-rings during my last oil change and that did solve the oil that was puddling on top of the oil filter housing, but it's evident that the larger gasket is the one leaking severely.

132,000 miles in and this car has never had an intake valve cleaning, so I'll be tackling this at the same time along with replacing the rear brake pads. I'm opting to pass on the blasting method, and go with the soak and scrub method instead.

Hopefully this will get my oil leak under control and help the car run a little smoother with clean intake valves.

I'm bound to have some epic carbon build-up pictures at my mileage.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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ucsbwsr ucsbwsr is offline
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Default 04-30-2015, 02:30 PM

Make sure to take some before and after pics of the valves, 132,000 miles has the potential to yield some massive build up.

Evan


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viperware viperware is offline
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Default 04-30-2015, 03:19 PM

Throw in a port injection kit while you have the intake off if you have the bucks, you won't be sorry.


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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 05-05-2015, 08:41 AM

As I prefaced before, I'd been putting of the intake valve cleaning on this car for some time now. With almost new injectors, coils, plugs and fuel pump, the somewhat rough idle still bothered me. But an oil leak that appeared to be coming from the oil filter housing gave me an opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. I decided to use the entire weekend to strip the car down, clean the valves, replace the OFH gasket, replace the rear brakes, rotate my square setup, and complete an oil change.

At this point, removing all these components is a breeze:



Knowing I'd need to rotate the crank to get the valves open and closed to soak them, I went ahead and unplugged the coils, removed them, removed the spark plugs (which looked pretty good -- I did change them about 5,000 miles ago) to help with compression.



Getting the intake manifold removed was the first task, which meant removing the DCIs:



The "evil black box" as it's been dubbed by the forums. I won't lie, I did struggle with this until I found the right technique. Some lubricant, a large flathead screwdriver and some hard pulling eventually got it off the bracket. As you can see, the oil leak had begin to cake/pool on the block underneath the box.



Another 15 minutes and it was off:



At this point, my DSLR begin struggling in the low light and the deep focusing to get a great picture of the valves, but they were as expected. 1-4 were awful, not even sure how those valves were moving. 5-6 weren't as bad. Had I gone another 100,000 miles without cleaning these, I suspect the valves would have eventually been unable to move up and down at all anymore.




Here were my tools -- 6 cans of Brake Clean and 1 Winchester gun cleaning kit from Walmart, about 35-40 bucks worth of supplies. The best thing about the gun cleaning kit were the large rod connectors that I was able to hook to my power drill.



This coupled with about 30 minutes of soak time done twice for each cylinder left them sparking clean.



Unfortunately no after pictures as I was having more difficulties holding a light and taking a shot in such low light, but they looked brand new. At this point I was feeling great about the entire process. Took about 5 hours in all taking my sweet time. I got everything bolted up, spark plugs reinstalled and started the car. Sputtered for a quick second and cranked right up. Idle seemed to be immediately smoother, even at cold start. I also wanted to do this for a short bit so if the oil had gotten somehow contaminated by the Brake Clean that I'd be able to drain it right after and add 7 quarts of fresh OEM oil.

Unfortunately, this is when trouble started. A small steady stream of coolant was leaking on the floor. I sourced the leak back to the hose that leads from the thermostat to the cylinder head. The two 10mm bolts that secured the hose to the head were not enough to overcome the corrosion and dry-rotting that had occurred at the connection point. The O-ring had begin to crumble and the rubber fitting itself had corroded beyond repair.



I quickly cut off the connection and ran to the BMW dealer down the street to see if they had any of the small fittings in stock. As with any experience at a stealership, this wasn't a great one. Not only did they not have that part in stock and it would be the following Wednesday before it would arrive, it was also necessary to change the whole hose.



This meant following the long, snaking hose all the way back the passenger side wheel area, so I could barely reach the clamp to remove the hose from the thermostat. Also meant draining most of the coolant, but this probably needed to be done anyways as the fluid hadn't been changed in some 60,000 miles since my water pump failed.

While I wait on the new hose to arrive so I can finish things up, I went ahead and replaced the rear brake pads as well as added a new oil filter and fresh oil. Hopefully the car will be running as good as new on Wednesday with the new hose.



With the added downtime, I also cleaned most of the oil from the engine, subframe, hoses, and undertrays so I can track any more leaks as I suspect I may still have one coming from the oil pan or rear main seal, but fixing the OFH gasket was a logical first try and should help slow the rate at which I have to add oil for now. Ideally I'll have no leaks at all after this, but at my mileage that might not be realistic.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 05-07-2015, 08:09 AM

So the car is back up and running and the thermostat to cylinder head hose has been replaced. Dropping the sway bar as you would when replacing the thermostat/water pump was the only way to access the clamped side of the hose. Once I filled the system up with BMW coolant, I started up the engine and verified no leaks after letting the car come up to temperature.

I pushed the car on the way to work this morning and everything feels great. Car is an absolute beast on the highway and power is smooth and linear all the way to redline. I'm going to daily run with Map 2 (17.5 psi) with the E85 Backend and E65 fuel and also have the ability to switch to Map 7 on the fly if I want to go all out.

The engine warms up quickly, idles smoothly and has picked up a noticeable amount of power. I shouldn't have waited nearly this long to tackle the valve cleaning.

At this point, I'm very content with all I've done with the car and probably won't add much else other than keeping up with maintenance, hastily fixing any problems, and possibly adding a new set of springs/shocks down the road. Even at 135,000 miles, my stock turbos build boost quickly, pull hard, and have no problem achieving 19-20psi on the race gas map, and make no noise at all.

Now I need to find a DynoJet and a drag strip before it gets too hot!


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 05-26-2015, 10:25 AM

A small update here. I was able to catch the JB4 Mobile Bluetooth Connect kits in stock earlier this month and pulled the trigger. Now having the ability to log and view live data without a laptop is very valuable to me. Highly suggest this tool in conjunction with the JB4!



Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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Default 11-25-2015, 01:57 PM

Back to report that I now have 155,000 miles and still running VERY strong. Original turbos, original HPFP, no smoke, not one light on the dash. The car has been on a JB4 tune for about half its life and has been running an ethanol blend for the last 50,000 miles. I drive 100+ miles daily and have zero complaints.

I do baby this car aside from a few redline pulls a week and the miles are mostly highway, but if taken care of an maintained correctly, these car can be dependent and last a long time even with very regular use. A nice change of pace from the usual high mileage breakdown or problem posts I read.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

Last edited by chadillac2000; 11-25-2015 at 02:07 PM..
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Default 11-25-2015, 02:37 PM

Good to know, that you are at 155,000 and car is still runing strong, im at 84,000 still original turbos, new injectors, plugs, coils and valves cleaned about 20,000 ago, i was thinking about upgrading but i guess i will still keep it for a while


JB4 G5, DCI, Er CP with HKS Bov, VRSF DP's, BB Race flash
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Default 01-31-2016, 02:03 AM

Hey chadillac2000, nice build thread man
I have a 08 535i and have read your threads and they have been a lot of help man.
I just did my valve cleaning last week...man what a difference it made.
Today i tackled the DP install. I will be honest man, your thread made a lot more sense then others. All I found was how hard and difficult it was to do, except yours. Yours just really said to have patience. That is the key...but I did have a lift as well..lol
It really was not a bad job, it took me 4 1/2 hours to complete start to finish and my buddy showed up half way through. Just in time for the install, like you recommended, one dude is just simple not enough. Anyway man, good job on the threads and they are helping some of us out.

Are you running any meth?....that might be my next mod.


2008 535I, Auto, Fresh oem snails, MHD stage 2 91 octane, BMS DCI, VRSF CP Tial BOV, VRSF DP's, Secondary delete W/vibrat 1790's, Muffler Delete, Thermostat mod, RB PCV, BMS 15mm ft and 20mm R spacers
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DSG03Bolt DSG03Bolt is offline
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Default 07-07-2016, 04:30 AM

Was looking at your fmic diy on 5series.net, but all the pics are gone


2008 535i
Jb4 G5 map 2, DCI, vrsf down *****, fingers crossed the charge pipe holds!
-phoenix racing charge pipe, rev9 intercooler, xs power BOV awaiting install....
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Default 10-07-2016, 08:15 AM

Now at 180,000 miles, original turbos, etc. and still happy to report no unexpected issues.

I don't beat on the car anymore and drive it pretty gingerly. I swapped the JB4 G5 ISO to my 135i and placed an older JB4 G4 on the 535i that I had. Once the G5 board was removed I developed some wastegate rattle, but it's not as loud as others I've heard and should be expected with 8 years of heavy use, 100K miles of E85 and high boost levels.

It seems as if I've developed a bit of a leak from the valve cover -- also common. I have the gasket and will be addressing this soon as it's causing some smoke every once in a while on decel under certain conditions.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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snelson3003 snelson3003 is offline
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Default 10-07-2016, 08:38 AM

DANG thats alot of miles! Good for you man!

Now im wondering if I had left my car mostly stock like yours if i wouldnt be on my 3rd set of turbos at 78K miles! LOL


498WHP / 516TQ : 10/29/16

VTT Stage 1 + Billet Wheel | VTT Inlets | VTT PCV Valve | JB4 G5 ISO | BMS E85 Flash | Fuel It Stage 2 | ECS TwinTake| Stett Vacuum Canisters | Hartge Stepped FMIC | VRSF DP | 91Oct w/E50 | BMS Cowl Filters | Located in Denver, Colorado - High Altitude!

Maintenance: EKPM3-DE @ 74K | Water pump & T-stat @ 70K | Valve Cover @ 50K | VTT Turbo @ 70K | HPFP @ 65K | Walnut Blasting @ 65K | 6 Injectors @ 55K | Vacuum lines @ 55K | Spark Plugs @ 75K | Boost Solenoid @ 65K
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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 01-15-2017, 08:56 PM

The wastegate rattle of my original OEM turbos had gotten fairly annoying, to the point where I felt the need to upgrade the G4 board back to the G5 ISO in order to access the anti-rattle functions of the tune. I quickly activated these using a laptop and the USB cable while I was waiting for the engine oil to cool before I drained it.



I also took this opportunity to replace the OEM PCV valve with the RB version I ran on my 135i for a few thousand miles before upgrading to the external system. With the engine cover removed, I also cleaned out the small amounts of oil that had pooled in the deep crevices of the valve cover and will continue to monitor this going forward. I couldn't visually see any cracks in the cover itself, so it could just be the gasket. Again, I have this, but would like to put it off until absolutely necessary given the time involved with the tedious install.

By now the engine had cooled off and it was time to perform the 185,000 mile oil change.



I still can't express how well this car has performed. Just this past weekend I drove the car 3 hours through mountainous terrain, then gave it a few hours off, and drove back 3 hours at 80 MPH on the interstate. Flawless the whole way. With the new G5 ISO masking the rattle, things should be even better.

I never thought I'd own this vehicle long enough to see this type of mileage, but now I've learned to appreciate its patina. Even the white of the roundel on the engine cover has turned a cream color.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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Default 05-21-2017, 09:53 AM

Every story has an ending and this one ended yesterday. Late yesterday afternoon I handed over the keys to a 15 year old girl. No kidding.

I listed the car up for sale locally on Craigslist for $6500. Within a few days, I had arranged to meet with a family considering a first car for their daughter. Knowing this, I decided to have one last rendezvous in the garage with this noble stallion. The car had been leaking oil into the spark plug galleys, which had caused the dreaded "engine malfunction -- reduced power" chime on a few occasions. This usually only happened on inclines at low RPMs. I was certain it was the valve cover gasket as it had 197,000 miles on the original and had been leaking for a while.

The ECS Tuning guide made this about as simple as it could be. That said, there were a ton of components that needed to be removed to change this gasket! On the other hand, I welcomed the experience as I knew I would eventually have to do the same repair on my 135i that I plan on keeping long term. It was also the first time I'd open up everything and take a peek at that valve train. About two hours in of careful removal of every necessary surround component, I had the top off. Tie wrapping (no bungee cord available) the wiring harnesses out of the way made things much easier when doing this job solo.



28 bolts and 3 ground studs hold everything down.



Those printed ECS instructions made organizing bolts and brackets easy.



After triple checking all the connections and priming the fuel pump, the car cranked for a few seconds and fired up. No leaks. I then jacked the car up, drained the oil, cleaned up the underside of the car from the leaking oil over the past few months, replaced the old oil filter with a fresh Mann unit and new o-rings, and added 7 quarts of Motul Xcess 5W-40.

I quickly vacuumed out the car, rinsed it off, met up with all five family members. Within a few minutes of driving it they were counting out my asking price in $100 bills. That $6500 will be applied towards paying off my E82 and putting a small down-payment on a more versatile second vehicle.

OWNING THIS CAR WAS A PLEASURE!


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF
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