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mikeseli mikeseli is offline
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Default 07-01-2017, 07:15 PM

I also recommend you perform a boost leak check. Those leaks make your turbo work harder to keep up.
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Default 07-02-2017, 12:01 AM

Earlier today I was able to spend some more time with my 1er trying to track down the cause of the recent smoking issue I've been having. I wasn't 100% convinced it was a valve cover problem, but at my mileage, it was probably going to break down soon anyways. I purchased a brand new valve cover from ECS Tuning and it came with brand new bolts and a brand new gasket already pressed into place. Not the most fun way to spend $379.50 on a 135i. I also picked up 6 more feet of Earl's Pro Lite 350 -6AN hose so I could run the same line instead of the mismatched hoses I had prior.





I had just done this job a few months back on my E60 535i right before I handed the keys over the new owner, so I was still somewhat familiar with the process. Started by popping the hood and then used the ECS Tuning N54 valve cover install guide as close reference.



I then removed the passenger side of the strut bar and the cosmetic engine cover.



Next to come out was the DCIs and low-side OCC hoses.



I also took this opportunity to dump the catch can after 2,000 or so miles. Incredible as usual.



As I started to remove the coil harnesses and coil themselves, I noticed that I had a pool of oil sitting near the cylinder 5/6 injectors that had not been there previously. This could indicate a crack in the the valve cover, a breakdown of the valve cover gasket or both.



The coils were the next to be removed, along with the sleeves inside.





Using the same pick I took the sleeves out with, I removed the harnesses attached to each injector as well as the small nuts on the ground posts. Two more 10mm bolts hold the entire wiring harness to the valve cover. Two other vacuum hoses must be removed from the vacuum canisters as well as right behind the oil filter housing.



Now was time to remove the fuel lines that are form-fitted over the valve cover. A 14mm wrench, a towel, and ventilation was needed.



After all the excess fuel has been soaked up by the towel, I broke open the other 5 14mm fuel lines on the driver's side. Then it was on to the injector side of the lines. A 13mm on the injector to make sure it doesn't get torqued around, and use the 14mm to break loose the nut.



I then used a long 10mm socket instead of the special BMW tool to remove the ground posts. The socket wrench doesn't completely click into place, but gives just enough depth to be able to unbolt the ground posts.





There are four 10mm bolts that hold the fuel rail to the head. These, along with the clips and harnesses, must be removed.



Now it was FINALLY time to start removing the 28 bolts securing the valve cover.



This takes patience, a strong back, a few different extensions and swivel sockets. Eventually I had them all removed. I chose to remove each of them with a pair of needle nosed pliers just to be certain that I hadn't left any partially screwed in. I pulled away all the wiring so everything would be easier to remove/install.



I then used this little trim tool to pry away the valve cover until it was freed all the way around.



I carefully pulled the old cover up and out to get my first glimpse at what lies beneath.





After cleaning off the old valve cover, I verified that there were no cracks or damaged areas. This would lead me to believe the oil was probably due to a failing valve cover gasket. The valve cover itself was in very good condition.



I chose not plug the ports on the head at this time, so I just wiped down all the contact areas and made sure they were clean.



Before I installed the new valve cover, I removed the brand new OEM PCV valve. This was replaced by the RB external PCV fitting. I also swapped over the oil cap hardware. Ensuring all of the wires and hoses were pulled away, I lowered the new valve cover into place. Already having the bolts and gasket in place from the package was very useful.





With the bolts already pre-installed into the cover, all I had to do was simply start tightening.



After snugging them all up by hand, I then went to each of the 28 bolts and applied the recommended 75 in-lbs.



Valve cover bolts torqued down and fuel lines tightened down.



All ignition wires connected and coils installed.



These two small vacuum hoses had become hard, brittle and cracked when I removed them. Luckily I had 15 feet of high temperature vacuum hose I'd picked up for my impending turbo install, so I utilized some and replaced the compromised portions.



The last thing i wanted to address was to correct my mismatched low-side OCC hoses. Using the 6 feet of new hose, I cut the IN and OUT to fit and ran each to ensure no kinks.





This new location allows for easy emptying without removing or unbolting anything.



After the catch can connections were reinstalled, I started the car to ensure there weren't any leaks or other issues. The car took a few seconds to crank due to the lack of fuel, but fired right up and idled great. I verified there weren't any leaks or smoke before bolting down the engine cover and moving on to the cowl setup.

On the drive home I got the car up to temperature and stopped at a few lights with no signs of smoking. When I backed up into my driveway, I repeated the 1000RPM test that used to produce clouds of smoke before and could not get that to happen. I'm still skeptical that the valve cover has fixed my smoking issue, but nevertheless, I'm glad it's been replaced along with the gasket for maintenance reasons. Within a few thousand miles or so, that oil leak would have found its way into the spark plug galley and more than likely started causing misfires. Keeping the oil inside an N54 is a constant struggle.


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Last edited by chadillac2000; 07-03-2017 at 07:37 AM..
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Default 07-03-2017, 07:37 AM

Morning update: replacing the valve cover and valve cover gasket did not cure the smoking when coming to a stop issue I was having. Seems like a given at this point this is an example of leaking turbo seals.


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mikeseli mikeseli is offline
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Default 07-03-2017, 11:17 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000
Morning update: replacing the valve cover and valve cover gasket did not cure the smoking when coming to a stop issue I was having. Seems like a given at this point this is an example of leaking turbo seals.
Did you check the condition of your front turbo oil drain line.
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Default 07-03-2017, 03:38 PM

i had a similar issue with smoke, everything was normal when i decided to install D p's, a week later i decided to go fully straight pipe removing the other 2 c@tts from the exhaust and for my first 2 minutes after straight piping smoke started to come out the exhaust. drove like that for a week and it burned 1qt of oil. when i only had D p's it was good.

then to start the trouble shooting i installed oem D p's wich didnt had to spend money doing so problem fixed. seems that when turbos are really bad the back pressure help them not to have alot of play causing oil leaks from the seals. drove a week with oem D p's no more smoke or burning oil. week after went back to the shop to weld back the other 2 c@tts and i installed my c@tt less D p's at my garage. been a week as is with no burning oil or smoke.
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Default 07-03-2017, 03:45 PM

by the way if you were burning oil from rings or valve seals your spark plugs would be black. check them out if they look good your ok, by this i mean if your turbo seals are bad your would be burning oil only from the D p's to the exhaust.
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LessIsMore LessIsMore is offline
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Default 07-05-2017, 07:34 AM

Agreed - if plugs look good, would guess it's the turbos.


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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 07-05-2017, 08:04 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeseli
Did you check the condition of your front turbo oil drain line.
I have not. I don't really want to go through the trouble of pulling the ********* to check the condition of the turbos when I'll be replacing them shortly regardless. The drain lines do seem to be a weak point in the turbos, so I'll certainly make note of their condition when uninstalling all the original hardware.

Quote:
Originally Posted by n5418102
i had a similar issue with smoke, everything was normal when i decided to install D p's, a week later i decided to go fully straight pipe removing the other 2 c@tts from the exhaust and for my first 2 minutes after straight piping smoke started to come out the exhaust. drove like that for a week and it burned 1qt of oil. when i only had D p's it was good.

then to start the trouble shooting i installed oem D p's wich didnt had to spend money doing so problem fixed. seems that when turbos are really bad the back pressure help them not to have alot of play causing oil leaks from the seals. drove a week with oem D p's no more smoke or burning oil. week after went back to the shop to weld back the other 2 c@tts and i installed my c@tt less D p's at my garage. been a week as is with no burning oil or smoke.

by the way if you were burning oil from rings or valve seals your spark plugs would be black. check them out if they look good your ok, by this i mean if your turbo seals are bad your would be burning oil only from the D p's to the exhaust.
It sounds like you're simply masking the problem, rather than correcting the leaking seals. It's been explained to me that the cats, especially the primaries, do a great job of masking the smoke so many of us commonly see at when coming to a stop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LessIsMore
Agreed - if plugs look good, would guess it's the turbos.
Plugs are good, just pulled them. While I am disappointed to hear its more than likely turbos finally showing their age, only more reason to abuse them into submission.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

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Default 07-05-2017, 08:21 AM

I have that same low-load torque wrench!


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Default 07-05-2017, 09:07 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ucsbwsr
I have that same low-load torque wrench!
That was the first time I'd gotten to use it. It worked pretty well! I've acquired quite the collection of specialty BMW tools via Amazon over the past year.

I had to test it on something else to make sure I was actually feeling the correct click before using it on the valve cover bolts; it doesn't take much effort to get the correct torque setting on those guys.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

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suspenceful suspenceful is offline
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Default 07-05-2017, 09:11 AM

Sorry to hear that this didn't fix your issue. At least it's done though!

Thanks for the detailed write up. I'll be sure to reference this as I do mine.


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Default 07-06-2017, 06:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by suspenceful
Sorry to hear that this didn't fix your issue. At least it's done though!

Thanks for the detailed write up. I'll be sure to reference this as I do mine.
Yes, at least that's another upcoming maintenance item that I won't have to worry about. The ECS Tuning DIY guide is pretty thorough. Follow that closely and you won't have any issues.


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

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Stucks Stucks is offline
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Default 07-09-2017, 06:45 AM

I have similar smoking issues. Havent had a single issue regarding smoking in the last 2-3k miles. Pulled my rb pcv valve and cap out yesterday, installed the rb low side pcv setup with mashimoto catch can. car was fine for a couple of pulls. Now smokes on deceleration or if i rev it while in park. does not smoke when low throttle cruising. Also wont boost at all, just hits a wall and feels like its struggling. no codes either. smoke tested charge sides and no leaks. pretty perplexed.


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Default 07-09-2017, 07:32 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stucks
I have similar smoking issues. Havent had a single issue regarding smoking in the last 2-3k miles. Pulled my rb pcv valve and cap out yesterday, installed the rb low side pcv setup with mashimoto catch can. car was fine for a couple of pulls. Now smokes on deceleration or if i rev it while in park. does not smoke when low throttle cruising. Also wont boost at all, just hits a wall and feels like its struggling. no codes either. smoke tested charge sides and no leaks. pretty perplexed.
Pictures of the OCC install? Have the hose coming off the RB external PCV connection running to the"IN" connection and the "OUT" connection connected to the throttle body connection?

Wouldn't explain the lack of boost though...


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

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Default 07-09-2017, 08:03 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadillac2000
Pictures of the OCC install? Have the hose coming off the RB external PCV connection running to the"IN" connection and the "OUT" connection connected to the throttle body connection?

Wouldn't explain the lack of boost though...
yup have everything hooked up correctly.


Current: 2008 e92 335i coupe.

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Default 07-09-2017, 05:03 PM

Even replacing the valve cover did not fix the problem. Possible fault candidates are considered only for turbochargers or valve stem seals. I think that it is better to check the ** by removing it first. Good luck


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748adam 748adam is offline
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Default 07-15-2017, 03:50 AM

I am having the exact same issues as you, driving in traffic at 800-1200rpm sees me blue smoking, my valve cover and gasket are fine, my turbo's are OE and just over a year old, no smoking on boost, no missifres and plugs appear to be fine too. lloking like turbo failure? I'll be watching this thread very closely.
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Default 07-25-2017, 09:28 AM

Im joining this club. Exact same problem but i already got turbos rebuilt and that didnt fix it either. I do have straight exhaust tho.
This is what i have done so far.
New valve cover and gasket. ( done it 2 days ago and it seems to be leaking so im a be doing it again today)
Rb valve, occ, new turbos, spark plugs look good. I have 2step on my car and no smoke even if i use lunch ctl which i normally dont. Under valve cover looked super clean.
Oil deff gets inside the exhaust that is why it smokes only when car is hot. Very little Smoke comes out slowly seconds after reving. Deff not rings in this case. No smoke on start up or when not fully warmed. Im thinking oil gets sucked through valve seals under vacuum but not sure how to check that.
Craziest thing is i had a 2jz single turbo 240sx about 5 years ago and had same exact issue which was never solved.
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Cloud9Blue Cloud9Blue is offline
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Default 07-25-2017, 11:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iaintslow
Im joining this club. Exact same problem but i already got turbos rebuilt and that didnt fix it either. I do have straight exhaust tho.
This is what i have done so far.
New valve cover and gasket. ( done it 2 days ago and it seems to be leaking so im a be doing it again today)
Rb valve, occ, new turbos, spark plugs look good. I have 2step on my car and no smoke even if i use lunch ctl which i normally dont. Under valve cover looked super clean.
Oil deff gets inside the exhaust that is why it smokes only when car is hot. Very little Smoke comes out slowly seconds after reving. Deff not rings in this case. No smoke on start up or when not fully warmed. Im thinking oil gets sucked through valve seals under vacuum but not sure how to check that.
Craziest thing is i had a 2jz single turbo 240sx about 5 years ago and had same exact issue which was never solved.
should have checked the exhaust valve guide seals when you had the turbo off.


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Default 07-25-2017, 12:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9Blue
should have checked the exhaust valve guide seals when you had the turbo off.
Yap i messed up. I had shop doing it for me and i didnt ask them to check it but, i have an idea, i will run the car in first gear real quick when its still cold and turn it off before exhaust gets hot enough to burn oil. Then take off *** and see if there is oil in the housing and turbine.
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Stucks Stucks is offline
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Default 07-27-2017, 05:46 AM

To update, I checked my turbos and the front turbine was wet with oil. so thats where my smoke puffs were coming from.


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Previous: 2003 Honda Accord V6 coupe: AEM V2, zex 75 wet shot (sold)
Past 1998 acura integra rs: jrsc @ 6 psi and bolt ons.
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chadillac2000 chadillac2000 is offline
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Default 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stucks
To update, I checked my turbos and the front turbine was wet with oil. so thats where my smoke puffs were coming from.
Thanks for the update. I've put around 1,000 miles on the car since my last post. Still no smoking when coming to a stop in neutral, but nothing I'm rushing to address with such an easy fix and no other adverse effects.

Just waiting for my new snails


Visit Chadillac2000's 2008 135i Road Warrior Daily Driver Single Turbo Build Thread HERE

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748adam 748adam is offline
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Default 08-21-2017, 12:47 AM

I have been doing a lot of reading recently and various threads have mentioned blocked/kinked oil return hoses. If these block oil can't return to the engine and is forced past the turbo seals, anyone here have any thoughts?
Adam
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Default 08-21-2017, 09:48 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 748adam
I have been doing a lot of reading recently and various threads have mentioned blocked/kinked oil return hoses. If these block oil can't return to the engine and is forced past the turbo seals, anyone here have any thoughts?
Adam
That happens but wasn't the the cause in my case.


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Default 10-02-2017, 06:29 AM

I am also in the same boat here. I have a lot of mixed signals. The smoke is only when warm and most excessive at deceleration and at a stop. Smoke is intermittent, and occasionally will appear at acceleration. Smells like burning oil, has blue color while some people have said it looked white to them. Soot in left tail pipe with moisture. At idle when parked, the very faint smoke from left tail pipe. Turbos just replaced a couple of months ago. No emissions system, oil catch can, no oil in can, valve cover gasket seems ok as no wet spots found. Also injectors seem fine. Going to perform a compression test soon.
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49535


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