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Default Electrical Issue - Please help!! - 03-25-2020, 07:06 PM

Over the past week, I've been dealing with this electrical issue that i cannot figure out the cause. Here is the timeline of what has transpired:

1. Water Pump failed and was replaced two weeks ago. Prior to the water pump failing, car was running perfectly.

2. After completing the water pump replacement, the car started but was stuck in limp mode. I check codes and the only two that resulted was 30D0 Wastegate 2,input signal and 3100 low boost engaged. Eventually, the car would no longer start and the battery was low. I attempted to jump start the car but it just cranks. Finally, I took the battery out and had it tested at Autozone. They told me the battery was bad so i purchased and replaced it. Car started up and ran completely normal immediately.

3. The very next morning, I go to start the car and it would not start, long crank but never started. I started troubleshooting, check for codes via JB4 but it would not connect. I then connect to MHD. This time, I get a new set of codes, 2ACC and 2ACB DME relay, switch delay and input signal. I reached out to BMS, Ando kindly had me send him some pics of the board and he determined that the board was bad? (no idea how as it was working the previous day before).

4. Today, I received the replacement board and a new master relay. Plugged everything and right off the bat, I was able to connect to the JB4 mobile app and I had my steering controls back, I ran a code check and a bunch of codes popped up:

2ACC
2ACB
29E2
3100
2FBE
2E18
29CD
29D2
29CC
2EE3
00f1
101D

I clear the codes, re-read and no codes came back. I proceeded to re-setup the JB4 to my custom tune setting but I found that I was not able to connect to the laptop via the ODB port (Verified the COM port). I switched back to the JB4 able, connected and started entering the values. All of a sudden, the car started to acting funny. There were various click from the engine, I heard the water pump spin up and then my LPFP starting running constantly. In the mist of this, I lost connect to the JB4, no re-connection to JB4 mobile and no connection via laptop. I plug in the ODB cable to try to connect to MHD/Protools and now neither are connecting. I took the JB4 board out and there weren't any thing wrong with the board visually. The car now will not communicate with any apps. I am not sure what is going on?

Did my DME just gone bad? I am completely at a lost on how I went from a working vehicle to a bad JB4 to now what it seems like a bad DME? Just by sitting overnight. Please help!!


335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.

Last edited by jcy335xi; 03-25-2020 at 07:18 PM..
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Default 03-25-2020, 08:38 PM

Update:

I removed the JB4 and put the connectors back to stock on the DME. I am now able to connect and read codes via MHD. Still getting the 2ACC, 2ACB codes and carnk but no start but at least I am back to communicating to the DME.


335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.
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Default 03-25-2020, 10:18 PM

When you read codes- what does it say for last file flashed?

Keep the JB4 off for now & I believe MHD has a “stock” option file- flash that, and see if the car will start.

Also before you flash- ensure your options are correct (Tmap etc) b4 flashing


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 03-25-2020, 10:43 PM

I also rechecked all the fuses and it's all good there. The last file flashed would be my custom bef tuned from Trebila. Once connected via MHD, I tried flashing back to stock, I had the car on a battery charger, airplane mode on, enabled the 3.5 n20 map sensor option and attempt to do a write (2 mins). It connected at first and when attempting to write to DME, it spit out an error Fail to Write. Now its not connecting to MHD ��.

I am still able get a connection via Protools but it doesn't see the ECU. I don't have an engine module like I did before. This problem is getting worse by the min.
Would a bad JBE cause communication issues with the DME? Or is the DME a brick now that it fail to reflash?

I also uploaded a videos of the random clicks and electrical sounds it was making. For all your viewing pleasure.

Electrical issue - YouTube


335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.
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Default 03-26-2020, 08:26 AM

Gave it another attempt this morning, turn the car on in the ON position. I noticed my LPFP is constantly running. I connected my phone with a different USB/Type C adapter (same one I use to connect to the JB4 mobile) and try to read codes, I get a Connected but never reads. Exit out and return in and read codes, this time says, unable to connect to DME. Ando says my new board is okay so it looks like my DME is bad?


335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.

Last edited by jcy335xi; 03-26-2020 at 08:54 AM..
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Default 03-26-2020, 11:31 AM

Very odd, so when you connect it says no DME?

And you can’t write a stock file?


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 03-26-2020, 12:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave @ BMS/Fuel-It!
Very odd, so when you connect it says no DME?

And you can’t write a stock file?
Yes, it is very strange. This is what I get from MHD now. In Protools, I no longer have a Engine module as well which makes me believe that something is up with the DME. I may be dealing with two separate issue now, DME failed to reflash causing no communication with the DME and JB4 not connecting (original issue), both are causing no start.

I'm also concern about the root cause, the last thing I wanna do is spend money replacing and repairing parts and then it happens again. The only thing I can thing of is I did remove and reconnect the front ground wire during the water pump replacement but a "bad" ground would have fried a JB4 board and failed reflash?

I'm going to jack the car up and review that ground wire as well.
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335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.
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Default 03-26-2020, 02:32 PM

Very odd.

If your able to connect initially, and it failed to write, I’ve seen that happen with bad Dkcan cables- where it would start to write & then stop.

Main priority now is getting the car to start.

JB4 removed completely, all dme connectors plugged back / nothing swapped or bent, correct?


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 03-26-2020, 02:42 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave @ BMS/Fuel-It!
Very odd.

If your able to connect initially, and it failed to write, I’ve seen that happen with bad Dkcan cables- where it would start to write & then stop.

Main priority now is getting the car to start.

JB4 removed completely, all dme connectors plugged back / nothing swapped or bent, correct?
Yup, I double checked the fuses, connectors for bent pins. JB4 disconnected except the power in the harness. The strange thing is, this cable has been working since day one. I never had issues with it flashing in the past.


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Default 03-26-2020, 02:53 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcy335xi
Yup, I double checked the fuses, connectors for bent pins. JB4 disconnected except the power in the harness. The strange thing is, this cable has been working since day one. I never had issues with it flashing in the past.
Remove the JB4 completely, harness included.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 03-26-2020, 03:14 PM

Does the car crank? If car cranks but does not start...be sure check the fuse carrier in the DME box. It's a small black box within the e-box and has 5 fuses. These are the main fuses for engine electronics and will cause no start if blown.

Your MHD warning "Could not contact the DME" does not mean your DME is fried or that all connection from the DME to the car is lost. I often would get this warning when trying to connect or read codes with MHD. It was typically something with the connector/connection itself. Don't rule out the cable. I actually use two cables, one for MHD and one for XHP because of connection issues. Your phone or tablet sees the cable as a 'device' and would often be looking for the previous application or other device and not connect with the warning you show. It was less troublesome to have two cables for me.

I say keep trying to connect, I think you'll get it eventually. I've found MHD very robust and reliable even when it seems like I've messed something up.


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Last edited by dmckmc; 03-26-2020 at 03:26 PM..
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Default 03-26-2020, 04:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmckmc
Does the car crank? If car cranks but does not start...be sure check the fuse carrier in the DME box. It's a small black box within the e-box and has 5 fuses. These are the main fuses for engine electronics and will cause no start if blown.

Your MHD warning "Could not contact the DME" does not mean your DME is fried or that all connection from the DME to the car is lost. I often would get this warning when trying to connect or read codes with MHD. It was typically something with the connector/connection itself. Don't rule out the cable. I actually use two cables, one for MHD and one for XHP because of connection issues. Your phone or tablet sees the cable as a 'device' and would often be looking for the previous application or other device and not connect with the warning you show. It was less troublesome to have two cables for me.

I say keep trying to connect, I think you'll get it eventually. I've found MHD very robust and reliable even when it seems like I've messed something up.
So a new development, I reached out the Alex@AlpineMSS, he was able to recover my DME back to stock. I now am able to connect to MHD and pull codes. I have not attempted to start the car since I haven't remove the harness completely as Dave had asked and since Alex flash me back to 100% stock, I think I need to swap back my map sensor to stock.

With regards the the fuse carrier, I don't have the 5 fused in the DME box nor do I have the sky blue DME relay that comes up in most google searches. This is what my DME box looks and my fuse box. I read that the black relay on the right is the DME relay which I've replaced but I have yet to find confirmation. Newtis says its the relay above the black relay but that is not removable. Any ideas where the DME relay really is?

The plan now is to remove the JB4 harness completely, clear the codes, check the ground by the water pump, swap map sensor and try to start the car.

K6300 - DEM Relay Location
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335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.

Last edited by jcy335xi; 03-26-2020 at 04:28 PM..
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Default 03-26-2020, 05:10 PM

I think your inability to start the car was simply the DME wasn’t fully written / corrupted when you initially tired to write the file.

Glad you have a stock bin on their now & eveything connects.

I’d swap the tmap & give it a shot.

Once the car starts, it’s up to you what you want to do in regards to tuning.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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dmckmc dmckmc is offline
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Default 03-26-2020, 05:26 PM

Nice to hear your stock bin is loaded.

the link you provided for the location of the K6300 is for a 320d, not an 335xi? the 335xi location does show in the e-box?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ronics/RqOCltO


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Default 03-26-2020, 06:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmckmc
Nice to hear your stock bin is loaded.

the link you provided for the location of the K6300 is for a 320d, not an 335xi? the 335xi location does show in the e-box?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ronics/RqOCltO
Nope, there's not a 5 port fuse block in the ECM box, mine does not look the same as the newtis diagram you posted. That's why its been so frustrating because the diagrams don't match what's on the car. I posted the pic of what mine looks below.

This is the same one as the previous link but now its for a 335xi:
K6300

So I just saw something that I didn't see before and I believe I've found the root cause. There was coolant in the bottom of the ECM box, it must have sloshed around when I test drove the car after the water replacement. Thinking back, my car did overheat when the water pump failed but I didn't realized it splatter coolant everywhere AND it actually got into my box. I didn't see it at first until I pull the harness out completely and I didn't have to use a flashlight until tonight. I saw something reflective at the bottom and realized it was a puddle of coolant. I am pretty sure this was the root cause of all my issues in the first place.

Going to clear the codes now and put it on jumpers cause I think my battery is low again. Hopefully, it starts.
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335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.

Last edited by jcy335xi; 03-26-2020 at 06:22 PM..
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Default 03-26-2020, 06:19 PM

So that didn't fix it

Still cranks but no start. What gives?!?! I still think the relay codes are what's causing my no start issue. Next things I could try:

1. Send the DME for hardware diagnostic, a thread from another forum, that user ended up having to replace his DME. (don't wanna link the thread in here since its from a different forum).
2. Figure out where the DME relay is located and replace.
3. Replace the entire fuse box if indeed the newtis data is correct, which indicates the relay is part of the fuse box.

What do you guys think?

Also found this in newtis, if I am reading it right, it tells me to ignore the rest of the other codes except 2ACC/2ACB which is what I have BUT I'm not suppose to replace the Engine Management System???
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335XI - AT || Pure S2 DDs +FBO +XHP S3 +JB4 +MHD - Trebila custom flashed.

Last edited by jcy335xi; 03-26-2020 at 06:37 PM..
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