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jfowler85 jfowler85 is offline
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Default 06-18-2020, 09:30 PM

Curious how this is working on Stock RWD cars on street tires? Best 60’ ive got is a 1.99 using launch control (with tires at 20 psi). Any RWD guys seeing 1.8s on street tires? Im running consistent 12.9 @ 108 but figure if I can cut down the 60’ a bit it will help up top.
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ico ico is offline
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Default 07-30-2020, 02:20 PM

Hi all,

I have a few questions regarding this and another related mod. Namely:

1) For your brake snip mod, what gauge wire did you use?

2) Should I be worried about the signal reliability due to added wire length and resistance for a switch to be installed below the steering wheel (e.g. on the cover of the fuse box below it)?

3) I am also considering installing a switch next to the brake snip switch to bypass the AWD fuse. Should I be worried about the same potential problems due to added wire length and resistance?

4) When installing the AWD fuse bypass switch and using the fuse tap/holder, can I take the other end of the switch and simply connect it locally to the car body/ground or do I need to route it all the way back to the fuse's other connector (which it seems to me is also a ground, so as far as I can tell both should work the same)?

Thanks for your help!

Best,

Ico

Last edited by ico; 07-30-2020 at 06:50 PM..
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
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Default 07-30-2020, 02:48 PM

Wire gauge doesn't matter much but I used 20 gauge stranded. No issue with wire length on this that I can see.


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Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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rakker rakker is offline
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Default 08-07-2020, 12:26 PM

Sorry if this has been asked already but when you launch using the brake snip do you guys mash the pedal all the way down right away ir do you ease into it some?
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Default 08-10-2020, 11:14 AM

There is only one polarity running through a fuse, ..both sides...DO NOT mix a ground in there, you will damage something.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ico
Hi all,

4) When installing the AWD fuse bypass switch and using the fuse tap/holder, can I take the other end of the switch and simply connect it locally to the car body/ground or do I need to route it all the way back to the fuse's other connector (which it seems to me is also a ground, so as far as I can tell both should work the same)?

Thanks for your help!

Best,

Ico
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neonland neonland is offline
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Default 08-13-2020, 05:15 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rakker
Sorry if this has been asked already but when you launch using the brake snip do you guys mash the pedal all the way down right away ir do you ease into it some?
Can't speak for others but I have AWD so I only hold it for a second or two and only build 1-3psi but that is all you 'need' for a considerably stronger launch.

I by no means mash it. I ease on it maybe hitting 40% pedal within a second or two and watch boost gauge as soon as I see any booster. I let go of brakes and mash it.

For me took me from 4.2 to 3.8 0-60. No doubt I could be more aggressive but that last .1-2 sec isn't worth it to me. The brake boost for me in solely a dragy thing and I have never used it outside of that purpose. I just don't find it practical for stop light to stop light stuff.
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Default 08-14-2020, 05:43 AM

Beacause there were some earlier discussions on this thread about some very creative ways to activate the snip, I'm working on a remote control relay to do this. It will be wired *Normally Connected, and switched power, so an engine cycle or malfunction keeps it connected. A FOB key will latch it open and keep it open until its pressed again, or the engine is cut. Is this something anyone else would be interested in? If so, I'll work on photos and a tutorial during my setup.

Last edited by AWDGT2; 08-14-2020 at 07:24 AM..
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neonland neonland is offline
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Default 08-23-2020, 09:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDGT2
Beacause there were some earlier discussions on this thread about some very creative ways to activate the snip, I'm working on a remote control relay to do this. It will be wired *Normally Connected, and switched power, so an engine cycle or malfunction keeps it connected. A FOB key will latch it open and keep it open until its pressed again, or the engine is cut. Is this something anyone else would be interested in? If so, I'll work on photos and a tutorial during my setup.
Yes interested.
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Default 08-24-2020, 05:24 AM

OK, LOL... I have a taker. I bought the remote switch, it's the size of a quarter, in fact I bought two. It took some very simple wiring to change it from normally open to normally closed. I bench tested it and it's worked like a champ. I already have a switch in so swapping it out with the wireless one will be easy. I'll probably start documenting the install and taking photos this weekend. Day job has me busy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonland
Yes interested.
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Default BMS remote control Video - 08-26-2020, 05:34 PM

@neonland
This forum doesn't seem to have a messaging service. I'd like to have you look at a video I uploaded on YouTube reference the remote control brake snip. It's work in progress and NOT complete. I'd like your opinion. Is there a way I can get just you the link?
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonland
Yes interested.
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Occams_Razor Occams_Razor is offline
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Default 08-26-2020, 06:28 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDGT2
Beacause there were some earlier discussions on this thread about some very creative ways to activate the snip, I'm working on a remote control relay to do this. It will be wired *Normally Connected, and switched power, so an engine cycle or malfunction keeps it connected. A FOB key will latch it open and keep it open until its pressed again, or the engine is cut. Is this something anyone else would be interested in? If so, I'll work on photos and a tutorial during my setup.
Yes interested.
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Default BMS Snip remote control - 08-28-2020, 09:25 PM

Finished Video of the Remote Control Switch for the BMS snip
Stinger Brake Snip (BMS) - YouTube
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonland
Yes interested.

Last edited by AWDGT2; 08-30-2020 at 04:41 PM..
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Occams_Razor Occams_Razor is offline
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Default 08-28-2020, 09:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDGT2
Unfinished but a start, Let me know if I'm going in the right direction...
Stinger Brake Snip (BMS) - YouTube
Good explanation.

But no link to Amazon...

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Default 08-29-2020, 11:32 AM

Video updated with links,
Thanks

Last edited by AWDGT2; 08-29-2020 at 11:56 AM..
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TRAIL BOSS TRAIL BOSS is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 10:45 AM

Has anyone tried isolating the pin in the plug and removing it, then running a new pinned wire from the plug to the switch and connecting that to the OEM harness pin? It would allow for a 100% return to OEM.

I suppose I could give it a try, but following my lead on electrical work is a foolhardy proposition. I only know enough to be dangerous.
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Default 09-21-2020, 10:47 AM

At some point I need to chase the wire down to the pedal assembly to see if we can make an adapter there. Just not been able to get to it yet.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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TRAIL BOSS TRAIL BOSS is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 11:12 AM

Is it the same wire all the way to the pedal assembly? I thought splicing it at the pedal would interrupt signal to too many systems.

I’ll crawl my fat ass down there and poke around if you think it’ll work from inside the cabin. I can take some photos and experiment with the switch if it’s straight-forward enough.
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Default 09-21-2020, 11:21 AM

There may be multiple wires going to the pedal, or a junction box for them. Can't remove the pedal connection to anything BUT the ECU for it to work. Yes just needs a lot more poking around. I have connectors floating around somewhere that may allow us to make a bypass plug. Just not had time to work on it.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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TRAIL BOSS TRAIL BOSS is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 11:25 AM

Fair enough. I doubt I’m qualified to confidently single that wire out down into the cabin. I’ve got a tone tester, but lack the hands-on experience to ensure I’m doing the work correctly.

As usual, I’ll wait for smarter folks to show me the way!
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djerickd djerickd is offline
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Default 09-21-2020, 12:12 PM

Terry, When you are messing with the pedal can you disable the kick down switch??
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dgascho dgascho is offline
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Default 09-22-2020, 02:46 PM

Seems like everybody's getting slightly different results, and I admit I haven't played with my car enough (no space) to figure out what works best, but: has anybody figured out what seems to work most consistently on the GT2s? I hear different opinions, but what's the consensus on how far ahead to flip the switch, the light flashing, etc.? Maybe I'm just bad at it, but almost never repeatable results.... GT2 AWD here, can't get a good launch.
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Default 09-22-2020, 03:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by djerickd
Terry, When you are messing with the pedal can you disable the kick down switch??
Not electronically, but you could put something between the pedal and the floor to block it from kicking down.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Default 09-22-2020, 04:17 PM

I wrote this on another forum but it applies here. My results are consistent.
I'm pretty sure I've sorted everything out. As soon as you switch open that connection it's considered weak snip.. at least for a few minutes. Basically the ECU hasn't figured out that it can't shut the motor off as if it was at a stop light. If you're in line to stage for a run, it will allow you to brake boost quite a bit more than standard LC, well over 2k.
‐----------------------------------------------------
If you put the car in drive and wait....wait...wait.. the auto off dash light will start blinking. It will happen between 1 and 2 minutes... that's beast mode. Basically the ECU has figured out something is wrong and it can't shut the engine off. If you stage then, you're close to 2.9k ish of rpm and boost builds like crazy.
My last launch at the track was at 2882rpm, 13.1psi of boost and 1.71 60'. (I recorded those straight from the .csv as soon as my car registered 1Mph)
I turn off traction control and stability control. I've tried launching with it on and the ecu detected wheel spin and it shut the throttle down quick and put the car on its face.....this is an AWD
I brake boost for under 1 sec! Yes, it's that fast. First yellow full pedal, third yellow slip off the brake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgascho
Seems like everybody's getting slightly different results, and I admit I haven't played with my car enough (no space) to figure out what works best, but: has anybody figured out what seems to work most consistently on the GT2s? I hear different opinions, but what's the consensus on how far ahead to flip the switch, the light flashing, etc.? Maybe I'm just bad at it, but almost never repeatable results.... GT2 AWD here, can't get a good launch.

Last edited by AWDGT2; 09-22-2020 at 04:33 PM..
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dgascho dgascho is offline
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Default 09-23-2020, 07:44 PM

Perfect AWDGT2, this is exactly what I was looking for. Is there any cutoff on beast mode? As in can you wait too long? It doesn't ever slip back out of this mode does it?

I think my biggest issue was traction/stability. Occasionally I would get the launch right, but immediately fall on my face, just as you described.

Thanks again, excited to see what numbers I can turn in now.
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Cool 09-23-2020, 08:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
It's something we offer on other platforms and something we're working towards!
When can I expect this feature on my 1.6t dct?
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