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MNStinger MNStinger is offline
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Lightbulb 07-22-2019, 05:43 AM

Hi all, just got a 2019 GT2 and loving it so far! Just ordered lots o goodies for it inside and out and can't wait to get started!

Preface: I don't know much about any of this so it is all speculation/wishful thinking but thought I'd throw it out there...

I have a question in regards to the DIY brake boost switch, but looking for a more polished install. I thought I read that the CAN bus isn't a "routed" messaging network so a message on the bus is available for all "recipients" to read and take action or inaction.

...if so...

Can the JB4 read/react to an OEM button press from inside the car via the CAN bus??? Say for instance that useless little "star" button on the radio that takes you to your "fav" screen? Thinking about hi-jacking it...

It would be cool if:
The JB4 could use its micro controller to "enable/disable" brake boost by opening/closing the connection on the green wire that has been cut and fed back to the JB4 housing.

Another option would be if there was a way for you to provide a sort of "CAN bus API" via the JB4 and then use a secondary micro controller to read messages from the bus via the JB4 which would allow the same functionality...but it all hinges on getting the button press message in the first place which is where I think we might be out of luck from reading earlier posts...at least for now.

I was also thinking about putting in a little toggle foot switch on the stationary foot rest thingy by the pedals in the cabin but like the OEM button idea better.

Just fueling the fire on this sweet little mod!

Mike
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(#77)
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monkey monkey is offline
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Default 07-22-2019, 09:58 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNStinger
Hi all, just got a 2019 GT2 and loving it so far! Just ordered lots o goodies for it inside and out and can't wait to get started!

Preface: I don't know much about any of this so it is all speculation/wishful thinking but thought I'd throw it out there...

I have a question in regards to the DIY brake boost switch, but looking for a more polished install. I thought I read that the CAN bus isn't a "routed" messaging network so a message on the bus is available for all "recipients" to read and take action or inaction.

...if so...

Can the JB4 read/react to an OEM button press from inside the car via the CAN bus??? Say for instance that useless little "star" button on the radio that takes you to your "fav" screen? Thinking about hi-jacking it...

It would be cool if:
The JB4 could use its micro controller to "enable/disable" brake boost by opening/closing the connection on the green wire that has been cut and fed back to the JB4 housing.

Another option would be if there was a way for you to provide a sort of "CAN bus API" via the JB4 and then use a secondary micro controller to read messages from the bus via the JB4 which would allow the same functionality...but it all hinges on getting the button press message in the first place which is where I think we might be out of luck from reading earlier posts...at least for now.

I was also thinking about putting in a little toggle foot switch on the stationary foot rest thingy by the pedals in the cabin but like the OEM button idea better.

Just fueling the fire on this sweet little mod!

Mike
Its also looking like the ecu brake wire cut is not working for the GT2 consistently. For me it comes and goes, mostly goes. The signal is cut as LC doesn't work but the full blown acceleration madness only happens when the auto shut off stops working. ("A" on dash flashes and the button stops working) When not working you still get higher RPM and some boost but the throttle is limited and ends up being about the same as LC.
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(#78)
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KLR STINGER KLR STINGER is offline
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Default 07-22-2019, 01:27 PM

Have you tried removing the switch to see if maybe you have a bad switch? Just leave the circuit open and see what it does?
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monkey monkey is offline
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Default 07-22-2019, 02:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KLR STINGER
Have you tried removing the switch to see if maybe you have a bad switch? Just leave the circuit open and see what it does?
I may try that but even when its not working fully it is working partially. I still get 2800 RPM and 4-5 lbs boost and LC is disabled. So there is no brake signal the ECU is just ramping the throttle for some reason.
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MNStinger MNStinger is offline
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Default 07-22-2019, 02:14 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
Its also looking like the ecu brake wire cut is not working for the GT2 consistently. For me it comes and goes, mostly goes. The signal is cut as LC doesn't work but the full blown acceleration madness only happens when the auto shut off stops working. ("A" on dash flashes and the button stops working) When not working you still get higher RPM and some boost but the throttle is limited and ends up being about the same as LC.
Ah bummer...ok well I may try to go the manual switch route or at least try it completely disconnected somehow before cutting it if possible but I'm outta commission myself for at least a week. Once I'm back on my feet I'll see if I can test it on my GT2 and get a different result.
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(#81)
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MurlinatoR's Avatar
MurlinatoR MurlinatoR is offline
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Default 07-22-2019, 02:43 PM

Ya know guys, another option could be a push button switch under the gas pedal. Left foot on the brake, right foot to the floor and the switch breaks the signal. *shrugs*


-MurlinatoR

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(#82)
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monkey monkey is offline
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Default 07-23-2019, 08:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
I may try that but even when its not working fully it is working partially. I still get 2800 RPM and 4-5 lbs boost and LC is disabled. So there is no brake signal the ECU is just ramping the throttle for some reason.
I was able to get it back into beast mode this morning by sitting in D with the brake on for a minute or 2. .15 slower to 60 than LC but feels like power is getting pulled somewhere. Certainly not on the start.
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 07-23-2019, 12:00 PM

Would need to see a log of it not working with wire cut to compare with other cars where it is working as expected.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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Adamdan Adamdan is offline
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Default 07-23-2019, 12:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Would need to see a log of it not working with wire cut to compare with other cars where it is working as expected.
Could this be because some cars have the drive by wire shifter?
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Default 07-23-2019, 12:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Would need to see a log of it not working with wire cut to compare with other cars where it is working as expected.
What would you look at in the log?
I did figure out the behavior. To make the auto stop light flash you just need to sit in D at a stop for a minute or 2 when warm. (Car wants to auto stop) If auto stop was disabled via the button it appears it will not make the light flash since you already told it you don't want auto stop.
When auto stop flashes (and the button stops working) you get 8-10 PSI and 50% throttle or more. When the light is not flashing you get about 40% throttle and 3-4 PSI. The more mellow mode works like LC, mash the peddle, go to 2800 RPM or so and release. No wheel spin on the AWD. In beast mode when flashing flooring it is un controllable and spins against the brakes almost immediately. You can do partial throttle and launch at around 2800 RPM still. I'm trying to keep it under 3K RPM and 1 second of brake boost.
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bal bal is offline
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Default 07-23-2019, 12:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
I was able to get it back into beast mode this morning by sitting in D with the brake on for a minute or 2. .15 slower to 60 than LC but feels like power is getting pulled somewhere. Certainly not on the start.
After two (successful) launches on mine after cutting the wire it seems Traction Control is broken when turning or going from a dead stop at a light. The traction control light flashes and cuts power to the wheels like it would do in a wheel spin scenario when the connection is not broken. It was going fine for a few days then started acting up after not using the switch since the original two test launches. If I disable the TC the car runs like it should. Maybe something broke

Have not tried resetting the ECU yet, will do that this evening.
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Metalmania82 Metalmania82 is offline
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Default 07-23-2019, 12:59 PM

Run with t/c off 24/7!

I automatically turn mine off as soon as I get in. Hate it.
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bal bal is offline
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Default 07-23-2019, 01:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalmania82
Run with t/c off 24/7!

I automatically turn mine off as soon as I get in. Hate it.
While I normally do, that doesn't help determine why TC is now malfunctioning.

TC has saved my ass in the rain a few times and I'd like to still have the option, especially when my wife is driving and already scaring the living crap out of me half the time.

I forgot to mention this is an RWD Stinger with no LSD.
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bal bal is offline
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Lightbulb 07-24-2019, 07:51 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bal
After two (successful) launches on mine after cutting the wire it seems Traction Control is broken when turning or going from a dead stop at a light. The traction control light flashes and cuts power to the wheels like it would do in a wheel spin scenario when the connection is not broken. It was going fine for a few days then started acting up after not using the switch since the original two test launches. If I disable the TC the car runs like it should. Maybe something broke

Have not tried resetting the ECU yet, will do that this evening.
Well, the ECU reset worked! Did some TC testing in the rain this morning and everything is back to normal. Weird.
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MNStinger MNStinger is offline
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Default 07-24-2019, 08:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bal
Well, the ECU reset worked! Did some TC testing in the rain this morning and everything is back to normal. Weird.
Just out of curiosity, how do you reset the ECU? Is that an option on the JB4 app or is it like disconnecting the battery for a while or something? I don't have my JB4 yet, but it is out for delivery today! It's killing me tho...won't be able to install for a couple more days!
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Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 07-24-2019, 08:22 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
What would you look at in the log?
Details of what is going on when it's "not working" vs when it's "working" to try to reconcile what input is blocking it.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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bal bal is offline
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Default 07-24-2019, 08:32 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNStinger
Just out of curiosity, how do you reset the ECU? Is that an option on the JB4 app or is it like disconnecting the battery for a while or something? I don't have my JB4 yet, but it is out for delivery today! It's killing me tho...won't be able to install for a couple more days!
Disconnect the battery for 5+ minutes. It's a good idea to do this when touching anything electrical on the car (such as installing your JB4) and definitely if you do the burnout switch.

Here's my switch solution...

I used a rocker switch with a flip-cap to prevent it from being accidentally activated ($2 each on Amazon but had to buy a 5 pack). Since the goal is to break the connection when activated, I took apart the switch and flipped the internals.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the install I attached it to the fuse panel cover since it's a cheap ($11) part to replace if necessary and in a good location.
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MNStinger MNStinger is offline
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Default 07-24-2019, 08:37 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bal
Disconnect the battery for 5+ minutes. It's a good idea to do this when touching anything electrical on the car (such as installing your JB4) and definitely if you do the burnout switch.

Here's my switch solution...

I used a rocker switch with a flip-cap to prevent it from being accidentally activated ($2 each on Amazon but had to buy a 5 pack). Since the goal is to break the connection when activated, I took apart the switch and flipped the internals.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the install I attached it to the fuse panel cover since it's a cheap ($11) part to replace if necessary and in a good location.

Cool! Thanks for sharing!
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monkey monkey is offline
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Default 07-25-2019, 10:01 AM

Two known damaged transfer cases so far with the Burger Burn out Switch. Proceed with caution. Both people held the brake for 4+ seconds.
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bal bal is offline
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Default 07-25-2019, 10:08 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
Two known damaged transfer cases so far with the Burger Burn out Switch. Proceed with caution. Both people held the brake for 4+ seconds.
Where is the info?

AWD or RWD? LSD?
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monkey monkey is offline
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Default 07-25-2019, 10:11 AM

This person - Chris has an AWD. He met with another Stinger owner who suffered the same fate but not sure what Stinger he had. I'll ask.
Brake snip issue | Page 4 | Kia Stinger Forum
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MurlinatoR MurlinatoR is offline
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Default 07-25-2019, 10:16 AM

Where are these confirmed at?


-MurlinatoR

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20 year Kia salesperson

2018 Stinger GT AWD Sunset Yellow
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-Factory NGK plugs gapped @ .024
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-ADD1 3.3v oil catch can
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bal bal is offline
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Default 07-26-2019, 08:19 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey
This person - Chris has an AWD. He met with another Stinger owner who suffered the same fate but not sure what Stinger he had. I'll ask.
Brake snip issue | Page 4 | Kia Stinger Forum
I guess that was a stupid question, this would be an AWD only issue since the RWD cars to not have a transfer case.

Very curious it wasn't actually ON launch they had the issue, only holding the brake while building boost. Probably means the transfer case was trying to direct torque as if the car was moving but unable due to the braking and something snapped.

I've heard the AWD GT2 models are 400lbs heavier, which does mean a lot more stuff to break.

Have done multiple launches in my GT1 RWD with the switch and no issues other than the traction control randomly acting wonky, which ECU reset fixed. None of them on a sticky track (haven't made it back yet, still too hot) but the blacktop sits at 150 degrees so definitely not cold tires. I'm on Ark coilovers adjusted to 5/16 stiffness, full subframe bushings/braces, 20" wheels, BMS diff brace so a lot of variables to consider that could have caused the traction control to act up aside from the switch.

Terry@BMS - you should probably put a disclaimer to do this at your own peril if AWD so Kia doesn't show up at your door and start lobbing broken transfer cases at you.
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Terry @ BMS Terry @ BMS is offline
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Default 07-26-2019, 08:30 AM

I've heard from plenty of customers who have done 100+ hard launches on their AWD cars without issue. For those two cars seems to be the common thread is holding too much boost boost for too long against their transfer case.


Burger Motorsports
Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.
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monkey monkey is offline
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Default 07-26-2019, 09:06 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
I've heard from plenty of customers who have done 100+ hard launches on their AWD cars without issue. For those two cars seems to be the common thread is holding too much boost boost for too long against their transfer case.
Also the rear tires can spin silently when brake boosting making the car attempt to transfer more power forward. I did this after the snip and thought i had the switch in stock mode, waiting for the LC to come on and realized my rears where quietly spinning. Holding 4+ seconds they had to be spinning.

My one launch at the track with full throttle and 10+ PSI resulted in a bit of spin followed by a 2 second throttle cut. ECU didn't like something. My car always cuts throttle after 1 second of spinning but this was different. Less spin and longer cut.
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