N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default E60 535i N54 Turbo Replacement - 10-01-2018, 08:27 AM

Half a year ago I noticed slight smoke puffs coming out the of exhaust on decel/coming to a stop. It has slowly been getting worse and the car has been consuming more and more oil. I've been putting off this repair for a while now and I will be starting it today. Keep in mind I've been pushing these stock turbos at 18-19 psi for the past 80k miles, needless to say I'm not surprised the little things gave out.

I will also be replacing my oil pan gasket/oil level sensor seal as well since I will be down there. I don't think the oil pan gasket is leaking but its like $50 to replace it so why not.

I will be doing the turbo replacement in my garage at home with the car on jack stands.

I have removed the **'s from the car a few times already, including installing ******* ones. I've installed silicone turbo inlets/replaced valve cover/walnut blasted the intake valves/replaced struts/hubs but there are a lot of the parts that will be coming off the car on this job.

I know there are a one or two DIYs that cover lowering the subframe on the E60 but they are rather limited in description/pictures. I will try to record my experiences/take pictures of tricky spots to help others along with this process if they are up to the task.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-01-2018, 08:47 AM

I have OEM CHRA's I got from Rob Beck. These have a little beefier internals but will produce about the same power as new stock turbos, which I'm ok with, this car is my DD and I'd rather save the money I'd spend on upgraded turbos on preventative maintenance or other car maintenance that may come up in the near future. This is a budget minded DIY.

I will like to start off this DIY with a shout out to Rob Beck at RB Turbo. I'm located in St. Louis so I met up with him to pick up the CHRAs, turbo install kit and a PCV vent hose. I know Rob is a busy guy, he puts hit life into his work. I was expecting a quick exchange of words when picking up the CHRAs from Rob, instead we ended up talking for like an hour and a half. I've heard good things about Rob from people who know him at local car meets, all spoke very highly of the man. After talking to him, he told me the story of his business and how it grew into what it has become today/how he kept investing his earnings into better machinery/production techniques which solely contributed to the end results and overall durability of his products. He explained the little things that matter in turbos, problems he had in the past and how he has over come those issues. This man may not know everything about the N54 platform but he sure as hell knows everything about turbos and the products he sells. All this information left me coming out of the "quick meet up" with the confidence that I picked the right turbo company for these CHRAs and knowing I would not regret the purchase. Rob was upfront about what I should expect from these; he didn't try to up sell me and seemed very authentic, he is very blunt and to the point - which might explain why some people think he's an a$$hole, personally I dig it, no ones got time for bullshyt.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-01-2018, 08:52 AM

I will also be replacing the serpentine belt/tensioner and idler pulleys.
If you hear a slight whirling sound at idle coming from the front (most audible in a drive thru) and if the sound goes away when you raise RPM's to 1000-1500 then its most likely the serpentine belt tensioner. I've heard the noise before and found the issue. It came back 60k miles later so I know what the issue is/fix is.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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LessIsMore LessIsMore is offline
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Default 10-01-2018, 10:48 AM

good luck, that's a lot of work but your car will be better-than-new afterwards.

good idea on the belt replacement too.

Just a"while you're in there" thing - if your WP/tstat have > 40K miles on them, I'd replace those as well - it's $$ but much easier with the other stuff for turbo removal out of the way and car up in the air.


2009 535i Sport - 548whp
Software :
JB4 G5 | MHD | Trebila Tune | XHP Stage 3
Hardware: VTT GC Lites | MFactory Helical LSD | Inlets | Outlet | VRSF 3" D-P's | VRSF 7" FMIC | Fuel-It! S2 LPFP | Fuel-It! TBI | BMS DCI | ER CP | Forge DV's | Koni FSD

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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-01-2018, 07:47 PM

I know the waterpump has around 65k miles on it. Its been replaced before. I was thinking about doing that while I do the turbo replacement but I figured I'd keep some cash in reserve in case I find something else that absolutely needs replacing once I dig into the car.

I have two of those 2.5 ton aluminium floor jacks, I made a mechanical locking collar for them so I could jack the car up, insert the locking collar, then lower the jacks to engage the mechanical lock. Since I will be needing a jack to slowly lower the subframe, I bought some 6 ton jack stands, cut the tops with a band saw to fit inside the jack points on the car. I got the front end of the car up on jack stands and I have the rear wheels sitting on Rhino Ramps.

Does anyone know if I need to remove the subframe completely or do I just lower it the 4 inches and let the struts hold it in place?

I also forgot to mention that I have new wastegate actuators and some VTT wastegates I will be installing. I have an estimate from a local welder who will charge $80-$100 to weld the flapper arms on and weld the bushing retaining pin.

I think disassembly will go by fairly easy. I have some air tools and some electric tools to speed things up/get stuck bolts loose fast. I recently bought a Mac tools 3/8" digital angle torque wrench for torquing bolts in tight spots when assembling.

Most importantly, I have a lot of beer to keep frustration levels down.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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walkingline walkingline is offline
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Default 10-01-2018, 08:48 PM

For your work or planning to work on, remove the subframe will provide you a lot of flexibility. you also need a engine stabilizer. After that you can remove what you want to remove. there are a lot of work you are doing I hope that you organize your stuff well. otherwise, it's not a very hard job just long.
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walkingline walkingline is offline
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Default 10-01-2018, 08:49 PM

I am too just replaced my turbo with RB stage1 and I love it so far. no issue.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-01-2018, 09:25 PM

I already got one of those harbor freight engine support bars for this job. I believe you need to support the engine from overhead if you're to move the subframe at all - since the motor mounts are bolted to the subframe.
I have a 535i with the sport suspension. If im to completely remove the the subframe from the car, I'm guessing the easiest option is to take the struts with the subframe as well? If i completely remove the subframe and no just lower it, will I need to disconnect any brake lines or can I remove the subframe and struts while leaving the brake calipers connected and supported/not put stain on the brake lines?
I've worked on the car before/done inlets and brake jobs etc, I just want to gather information from others regarding the job. I don't mind removing components, I have a big medium size parts organizer I can use /plan on using for storing/labeling bolts/nuts etc.
My main concern is removing single use bolts and having to wait a few days to a week for the replacement hardware to come in. I have a car I can use for a week as I do this project but I don't want this project to drag on for weeks as I wait for replacement parts/hardware.
Any input from anyone who has done this job would help a lot/make it easier for anyone else who might want to take on this challenge.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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Default 10-02-2018, 07:39 AM

Be careful with the hydraulic lines for the ARS/dynamic drive when you lower the subframe.


2009 535i Sport - 548whp
Software :
JB4 G5 | MHD | Trebila Tune | XHP Stage 3
Hardware: VTT GC Lites | MFactory Helical LSD | Inlets | Outlet | VRSF 3" D-P's | VRSF 7" FMIC | Fuel-It! S2 LPFP | Fuel-It! TBI | BMS DCI | ER CP | Forge DV's | Koni FSD

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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-02-2018, 11:34 AM

This is the main link I've been referring to to subframe lowering:
https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...8/#post1594333

Please if anyone has any input, tell me, it will help others out as well!


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-02-2018, 07:51 PM

I spent my time today planning how I am going to go about removing the subframe/messed with supporting the engine. I am going to remove the subframe, steering rack, and ars system as one piece. I don't see any reason to unbolt the ars from the subframe prior to removal.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rkreimer10 rkreimer10 is offline
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Default 10-03-2018, 01:53 AM

I replaced my turbos in my 535i without supporting the engine. I did not remove the subframe or motor mount for that matter.

I too have the sports suspension.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-03-2018, 08:08 AM

Yea, I saw that post you made. Congrats on doing that but I feel its just going to make things harder trying to work around it.
I also plan on changing my engine oil pan gasket which requires dropping the subframe.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
Reply With Quote
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rkreimer10 rkreimer10 is offline
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Default 10-03-2018, 10:44 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpro88
Yea, I saw that post you made. Congrats on doing that but I feel its just going to make things harder trying to work around it.
I also plan on changing my engine oil pan gasket which requires dropping the subframe.
That makes sense if you are doing the oil pan gasket at the same time. I saw the extra time to deal with a few aqward bolts was much less than dropping the subframe. Plus, I did not want to pay for an alignment. haha

I am about to remove dynamic drive and active steering from my car, so the inevitable is about to happen. haha.

Shoul I replace the oil pan gasket as well? I think there is only 20k on this one. haha.

I will also do motor mounts when I change the rack and anything that looks nasty!
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-03-2018, 11:41 AM

With 20k on your oil pan gasket, there is a good chance its perfectly fine. The gasket plug hardware to install it cost like $50. I'm also replacing the oil level sensor seal.

If you take a look at this link: https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23372
The way the dealership goes about replacing the turbos says something, they pull the engine and subframe with all the front suspension components. I think I will be this today:

Remove the rotors and calipers from the car, I will leave the calipers connected to the brake lines and use zip ties to make sure they don't stress the brake lines. I don't want any accidental damage to happen to the rotors (just did a brake job a month ago) so thats why i'm pulling those off.
I will leave then remove the subframe with the suspension components attached to it.
I will disconnect the level sensor arm for the xenon headlights to prevent any damage to it the sensor that might occur - since the suspension components will have a larger range of movement.

This way I should be able to maintain alignment. Also the won't have to buy $50 worth of one time use locking nuts.

I plan on lowering the sub frame with 2 jacks onto 2 furniture moving dollys. That way I can roll the subframe/suspension/steering rack/ars out of the way since it will be significantly heavy.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-03-2018, 11:53 AM

I noticed that the ARS hydraulic lines seem to be routed through the subframe. If you want to remove the ARS before removing the subframe, you will have to undo a good amount of hydraulic connections.

Disconnecting the power steering rack from the steering knuckle doesn't take much effort. There is a plastic seal cover/fin piece that i believe is meant for aligning the steering wheel with the rack position. When disconnecting this part, don't break the plastic part. Remove the clamping screw and you will notice a little slit opens up a tad. Take a flat blade screw driver and gently wiggle in the slit, this will allow you to easily disconnect the steering rack from the knuckle.

With all the work I've done on my car, I found that if things don't come apart easily, don't brute force it, you will just end up breaking some little plastic shyt or bend something, there is a reason something isn't coming apart, you just gotta find it!
For example, when I went to replace my valve cover gasket, I was sure I removed all the bolts from the valve cover. I know I had to pry at the thing a little to get the valve over/gasket from the head. Well part of it came off easily, the rear part, well didn't, so I pryed a tad more, then pop! - the valve cover came off just to reveal that there was one screw still holding down a piece of plastic that was part of the valve cover. Turned a $50 job into a $450 job because I had to buy a new valve cover.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-03-2018, 11:56 AM

Also I have a whole array of new tip out small parts organizers... I was originally using these for the organization of bolts and such. I found out it is much easier to get some small wire and a bunch of little zip loc baggies and store the bolts with the part. This is primary due to not knowing how to label all these little bits/saving time.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
Reply With Quote
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-04-2018, 07:43 AM

So yesterday I was able to pull down the subframe. I have to modify the dollies a little to make them work but I will get the thing pulled out today.

There are a few little things that needed to be unscrewed that weren't covered in any guides. I slowly lowered the subframe with jacks and made sure that there wasn't anything I was pulling down with the subframe that couldn't be pulled down.

Also, DO NOT think the struts will support the subframe/ will just hang there. If you do so, some suspension components will hit things/you can break little plastic parts etc. I lowered the subframe very slowly and walked around a few times to check for any issues, that is one of the issues I found.

I have my DSLR in the garage. I am taking pictures of the critical steps and will make a more organized DIY later. I am currently just reporting on my findings as i go along right now.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-07-2018, 08:32 PM

Subframe, ARS, steering rack and front suspension is out in one piece. Brakes are still on the car, left supported by zipties.

Turbos are out. Old CHRAs removed, new CHRAs installed. Old wastegates removed, new wastegates tig welded on. Waiting on new wastegate actuators to come then the turbos are ready for install.

I'm replacing all vacuum hose with silicone replacements.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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dmckmc dmckmc is offline
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Car: E60 535i
Default 10-12-2018, 09:42 AM

St. Louis 535i e60 owner here. Just found your thread and it's great to read you are able to DIY. I've dropped the subframe for the oil pan gasket replacement and completed FBO and many maintenance items. My factory turbos seem to be fine and will likely do the same as you with RB CHRA's when needed.


N54
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JB4
BEF-E85
E40
PCV-EXT
XHP
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-12-2018, 11:15 AM

Going with the RB CHRA's seemed like a good choice in the beginning. The reality of the situation is that you save money but create a lot of work for yourself. Like for example, removing the old wastegates and installing new ones is a pain. I'm not sure if its due to the heat cycling or what but I have good drill bits and removing the old wastegates took some patience as the metal was much harder than expected. Also installing the new wastegate arm is a task. You need to make sure its welded on at the correct angle for the wastegate to close when vacuum is applied to the actuator. Thankfully I have a family friend who owns a machine shop and is very good with a TIG welder. Its not a hard task but it just adds time to the process.
Also before you weld on the new wastegates (you can do it after too) you will want to media blast the exhaust manifold. The amount of carbon that will be built up by the turbo turbine will prevent the new one from seating perfectly centered. You will want to remove carbon from all mating surfaces, including the surfaces that mate with the engine block. Last but not least, you will want to make sure all the glass beads are out of the exhaust manifold. This is no joke, you will think its clean just to find another bead inside. I found the most effective method to remove the beads was a power washer. I would blast it out with shop air, power wash and blast water into every hole I could get the nozzle into, blow out with air some more and repeat like 7-8 times. It took me like an hour and a half to make sure the exhaust manifold was free of glass beads. RB turbo has a tumbling machine used solely for this and tumbles the exhaust manifolds overnight.
Also the snap ring on the CHRA's is a b*tch to remove. I bought a good pair of snap ring pliers and they would be able to close the ring but once I tried pulling it up to remove it, the ring would just slip off the pliers and I was back to square one. I ended up making a tool for this job with made removing the snap rings super easy. My biggest concern was installing the snap rings with the new CHRA's in the turbo compressor housing. The CHRA's have to go in perfectly straight, else you risk damaging the compressor/bending a fin or gouging the side of the compressor housing.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-12-2018, 11:25 AM

I wasn't able to push the CHRA fully into the compressor housing by hand. The new o-ring and the tight fit made it very hard. I oiled the o-ring with motor oil as recommended but i could not provide enough force to get the CHRA fully seated into the housing. I probably could have pushed in in but I didn't want to risk my hand slipping/bending or damaging the CHRA or compressor housing. The tool I made/modified uses a screw to compress the snap ring/keep it compressed. I got the CHRA in place and slowly released the snapring, I used a small screw driver to put she snap ring down and keep it in place/made sure it was opening into the groove it was suppose to. I heard a pop as one side clicked into place, another pop as the other side clicked into place, then followed by one big pop as the snap ring pushed the CHRA into place. Also the snap ring is tapered on one side, so make sure it is installed with the correct side up, the taper on the snap ring corresponds to the taper on the inside of the compressor housing, this allows the sideways force of the snap ring to be converted into a downward force that pushes the CHRA against he compressor housing.


DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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dmckmc dmckmc is offline
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Default 10-12-2018, 01:37 PM

Ugh...Well the devil is in the details as they say. While I'm very comfortable with my DIY skills, I'm not sure I want to go through the effort you've described. it might be worth it for me to simply pay more for upgraded and ready to install turbo's. Thanks for taking the time to detail your experience with your 535.


N54
FBO
JB4
BEF-E85
E40
PCV-EXT
XHP
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rcpro88 rcpro88 is offline
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Default 10-12-2018, 02:16 PM

Yes, being able to pull off the old turbos and installing the new turbos would defiantly decrease the overall time your car is in the shop.
Also there are issues I've found with the normal engine support via harbor freight engine brace. Like the tow hook would only screw in a 2 maybe 3 full turns before the flange hits the valve cover and engine block. I turned the tow hook flange down on a lathe to allow it to make 4 or so turns into the engine block.
Also the harbor freight engine brace is rather sketchy at first. I added washers on the side supports to remove as much side to side play as I could. I spent quite a bit of time finding the ideal placement for the thing. On the HF engine brace, the screws that hold the engine have hooks on the side of them, meant for a chain I believe but causes torque to be generated on the screw since the tow hook only hooks to one side. Its rather hard to explain but bracing the engine is crucial, once the subframe is out, any slippage of the engine brace could be catastrophic. The first day I noticed the HF brace slide a little from where I initially had it when I removed my subframe. I moved the brace back and I have the legs of the brace supported with ratchet straps to prevent such movement.


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dmckmc dmckmc is offline
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Car: E60 535i
Default 10-12-2018, 03:19 PM

I used the HF engine support bar as well. I did not trust the hooks that came with it the kit and used my own chain and hook. The width of the HF engine support bar was troublesome as there seemed to be no good place for the feet to sit firmly within the 535 engine bay. I had success using 2 x 4 blocks under each foot of the support frame.


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