
10-02-2018, 02:33 PM
Agreed. I like the fact you tried to make your own, I guess if you really needed the car and you had the parts lying around, then it would be fine for a few days until a replacement arrives but vacuum canisters are like $30-$40, its not even worth trying to make one for that price.
Personally, I go to car meets, I'm not sure many people would take me seriously with PVC fittings under my hood...
If someone breaks the nipple off their vacuum canister, this is what I'd recommend you do to repair it:
Drill a hole for a 4mm-5mm tap, tap the hole.
Take a 4mm-5mm bolt that has part threaded/part non threaded shaft.
Cut the bolt so there is 12mm of non threaded shaft and 12mm of threaded shaft.
Run a die over the threads after you cut them to make sure they didn't get dis-formed.
If you don't have a die, BEFORE you cut the threaded part down to size, thread a nut(preferably stainless steel) or two on the bolt and after you cut the threaded part, remove the nuts and they should fix any damaged threads.
This part might be hard depending on the tooling you have, but drill a hole length wise through the center of the cut bolt. Start with a small drill but to make sure you're straight, then drill out to a final diameter of 2.5mm-3mm.
Test fit the part in the vacuum canister, if it fits well, then apply a tad of epoxy to the threads then screw the part in to the vacuum canister. You might be able to use thread sealer if you don't want to wait for the epoxy. Let the part epoxy fully cure before installing the vacuum canister in you car/drive.
DON'T buy VRSF D.Ps or inlets! I have them and their fitment sucks! Running their FMIC with no issues.
HKS BOV, BMS DCI, BMS Meth Kit
JB4 w/MHD-BMS E85 Backend Flash
Custom Map 6 21.5 psi (E70 mix)
Walbro 450 LPFP - 4 Bar TMAP Sensor - Muff Delete
SAT Transmission Flash/retrofit (Thanks to Wedge!)
AD Engineering Oil thermostat - Rob Beck PCV Valve
Installed all the parts myself.
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