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Default 06-05-2012, 05:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
I did it a bit different....I did it like the link below in post #17...what your thoughts? I have turned the rod 3 full rotations....I am a bit nervous to do more but will if needed. With your way how do you know how much linkage or adjustment to do...Do you put vacuum to it so it is fully closed, removed the c clip and adjud the linkage?

Link:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...7#post10240767

Interesting, a few weeks before Rob posted that on the other site we were IM'ing about this & here's what he told me:

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo
Your internal wastegates are probably wearing out, and shortening the rod has made up for some of the excess slop that the actuator now has to counter to get the wastegate flapper fully seated. There is no rule of thumb really, just applying a fixed amount of vacuum to the actuator and feeling the amount of play or resistance in the flapper turning. ********* need to be removed to really do it with any sort of effectiveness.

Rob

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
I shortened up the rear WG rod 2 turns and Spool up is much better (75K miles on my 09/06 build). Do you have a "rule of thumb" for adjusting or any advice for How much is too much when shortening the rod?

Thanks,
Vince






Looks like he got more details from the TIS.

I just pulled an unmeasured amount of vac till the actuator moved all the way & shortened the rod till the flapper was snug on the seat & went another 1/2 turn for good measure. Used a few custom wrenches to do the rear.

The front was a real challenge. Had to remove the c-clip (that's on the WG arm pin) to pull off the adjusting rod end. Removing the rod end was tricky because you have to move the actuator to a spot where there is just enough clearance between the turbo & engine to remove the rod end. Once the rod end is off the WG arm, you can lower it to get a wrench on the adjusting nut. Shorten rod, reinstall rod end on WG arm, check, repeat till you are happy with it or till your fingers won't stop cramping.
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Default 06-06-2012, 11:00 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Interesting, a few weeks before Rob posted that on the other site we were IM'ing about this & here's what he told me:

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo
Your internal wastegates are probably wearing out, and shortening the rod has made up for some of the excess slop that the actuator now has to counter to get the wastegate flapper fully seated. There is no rule of thumb really, just applying a fixed amount of vacuum to the actuator and feeling the amount of play or resistance in the flapper turning. ********* need to be removed to really do it with any sort of effectiveness.

Rob

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
I shortened up the rear WG rod 2 turns and Spool up is much better (75K miles on my 09/06 build). Do you have a "rule of thumb" for adjusting or any advice for How much is too much when shortening the rod?

Thanks,
Vince






Looks like he got more details from the TIS.

I just pulled an unmeasured amount of vac till the actuator moved all the way & shortened the rod till the flapper was snug on the seat & went another 1/2 turn for good measure. Used a few custom wrenches to do the rear.

The front was a real challenge. Had to remove the c-clip (that's on the WG arm pin) to pull off the adjusting rod end. Removing the rod end was tricky because you have to move the actuator to a spot where there is just enough clearance between the turbo & engine to remove the rod end. Once the rod end is off the WG arm, you can lower it to get a wrench on the adjusting nut. Shorten rod, reinstall rod end on WG arm, check, repeat till you are happy with it or till your fingers won't stop cramping.
Awesome info....I am thinking about doing this from the bottom since I can drop the steering rack easily....take the C-clip out and put vacuum to the actuator and then just adjust the linkage to compensate..pretty much what you said lol!! I have it right now at 6-7" Hg but it is hard to tell because once the rod stops a bit more vacuum is applied and your reading is off. I have done 3 1/2, rotations so far and it helped but woul like to be sure. Throttle response is better and it grabs boost faster.


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Default 06-06-2012, 11:23 AM

I measure improvements by seeing how close the Boost & Target curves match. Lazy Spool-up goes away with a good adjustment, all else being good of course.

BTW, forgot to mention when adjusting front WG it takes a bit of force to remove the rod end as SH** is in the way of the rod no matter where you position it.
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Default 06-06-2012, 11:56 AM

I thought I would add my experiences here. I did all of the tests in the first post. I have a JB4 15ohm, DCI and WW meth. 2007 335i, 64k miles.

1. I found a small nick in my diverter valve hose that was leaking boost. I covered it with some JB plastic weld
2. My meth nozzle in my AR elbow was leaking boost. I used plumber's tape and reinstalled the meth nozzle.
3. One of my pressure converters (or pressure regulator solenoids as I've also seen it called), was leaking. I was only pulling 10" Hg during WOT. So while both vacuum canisters were fine, the vacuum wasnt making it to the wastegate.

I couldn't find a 100cc syringe so I bought a brake bleed kit from harbor freight ($25). This allowed me to apply vacuum to DV's and wastegates. Harbor Freight also sold a nice vacuum guage for $10. Home depot had all the fittings and tubing in the plumbing aisle. It was challenging to locate everything. I'm glad I have it all now.
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Default 06-06-2012, 02:11 PM

Welcome to a great community!

Glad the DIT was helpful.
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Default 06-06-2012, 03:48 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Welcome to a great community!

Glad the DIT was helpful.
Your tutorials and knowledge that you share are very appreciated....helps a ton when looking for questions and how to's on this platform.


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Default 06-06-2012, 03:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
I measure improvements by seeing how close the Boost & Target curves match. Lazy Spool-up goes away with a good adjustment, all else being good of course.

BTW, forgot to mention when adjusting front WG it takes a bit of force to remove the rod end as SH** is in the way of the rod no matter where you position it.
That is wht I am doing...I am a bit under target...mostly in the lower RPMS...I noticed when I shortened the rod 3 1/2 turns it grabs boost faster but has a different rattle now...I am betting the Wastegate is actualy sealing on the turbo, before it was not.

Would you suggest taking the c- clip off, closing he Wastegate with vacuum and then adjusting?


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Default 06-06-2012, 05:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
That is wht I am doing...I am a bit under target...mostly in the lower RPMS...I noticed when I shortened the rod 3 1/2 turns it grabs boost faster but has a different rattle now...I am betting the Wastegate is actualy sealing on the turbo, before it was not.

Would you suggest taking the c- clip off, closing he Wastegate with vacuum and then adjusting?
Are you 6MT? Boost lag at the lower RPMs & every shift seems to be a way of life.
IMHO The rattle could be from the WG disc valve, loose WG arm bushing or the end play between the rod end & C clip. Something from here could fix the endplay rattle. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-disc-springs/=hv6eil

I don't get your last question... If you mean what the guy on e90 link did, NO I wouldn't do that.
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Default 06-06-2012, 07:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Are you 6MT? Boost lag at the lower RPMs & every shift seems to be a way of life.
IMHO The rattle could be from the WG disc valve, loose WG arm bushing or the end play between the rod end & C clip. Something from here could fix the endplay rattle. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-disc-springs/=hv6eil

I don't get your last question... If you mean what the guy on e90 link did, NO I wouldn't do that.
I have a 6AT, I do have a LOT of play at the end of the linkage. So don't take the C-clip off to adjust the linkage? I have been just adjusting it to where it takes 6"Hg to close....I have turned it 3 1/2 rotations so far nd it takes 7"Hg to close...before the adjustments it was at 9-10"Hg to close them lol!! I adjust it by loosening the adjusting nut (turn it towards the engine) then turning the rod towards the ground/fender. I then take a vac reading and adjust more if needed...just a bit weary of going 4 rotations lol!!

Can you explain your method of adjusting your wastegates?


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Default 06-07-2012, 07:12 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Can you explain your method of adjusting your wastegates?
It's a good idea to fix the endplay at the rod end to take it out of the equation.

From an earlier post w/ some detail added:

For the Rear - C-clip in place, Losened the adjusting nut, I pulled an unmeasured amount of vac till the actuator moved all the way & check for WG valve fully closed. If not closed, Shortened the rod till the flapper is snug on the seat & go another 1/2 turn for good measure. I used a few custom wrenches to do the rear.

The front was a real challenge, **'s removed. Had to remove the c-clip (that's on the WG arm pin) to pull off the adjusting rod end. Removing the rod end was tricky because you have to move the actuator to a spot where there is just enough clearance between the turbo & engine to remove the rod end (this took a little force to get the rod end off). Once the rod end is off the WG arm, you can lower it to get a wrench on the adjusting nut. Shorten rod, reinstall rod end on WG arm, check, repeat till you are happy with it or till your fingers won't stop cramping.
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Default 06-07-2012, 08:35 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
It's a good idea to fix the endplay at the rod end to take it out of the equation.

From an earlier post w/ some detail added:

For the Rear - C-clip in place, Losened the adjusting nut, I pulled an unmeasured amount of vac till the actuator moved all the way & check for WG valve fully closed. If not closed, Shortened the rod till the flapper is snug on the seat & go another 1/2 turn for good measure. I used a few custom wrenches to do the rear.

The front was a real challenge, **'s removed. Had to remove the c-clip (that's on the WG arm pin) to pull off the adjusting rod end. Removing the rod end was tricky because you have to move the actuator to a spot where there is just enough clearance between the turbo & engine to remove the rod end (this took a little force to get the rod end off). Once the rod end is off the WG arm, you can lower it to get a wrench on the adjusting nut. Shorten rod, reinstall rod end on WG arm, check, repeat till you are happy with it or till your fingers won't stop cramping.
I see, makes sense. When putting the washer on (going to see if homedpot/hardware store has one so I dont have to order) should the washer be on the side with the C-clip or on the other side? I think I may have adjusted a bit much...my car boosts to 17 PSI but after it shifts/or I let off the throttle I see a spike to 19-20 PSI. Ths is with the fuel high jack via the JB4 so it may be off slightly.

The front Wastegate I am not attempting lol!! I had a hard enough time replacing the vacuum lines to the actuator lol!!


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Default 06-07-2012, 11:21 AM

My $0.02. I'd put the washer on 1st because the c-clip is very small in Diameter and will not touch much of the washer.

For Boost, use logs to know what you really have.
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Default 06-07-2012, 11:46 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
My $0.02. I'd put the washer on 1st because the c-clip is very small in Diameter and will not touch much of the washer.

For Boost, use logs to know what you really have.
Thanks man, you have been VERY helpful!


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Default 06-09-2012, 09:04 PM

Well, i have turned the wasgate rod 4+ full rotations and my log says it has helped....I am on target a lot more than I was.....I was 2-3 psi under before.
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Default 06-10-2012, 11:41 AM

Yea mine was just a waste gate issue. They also reconnected a vacuum line the first guy left off when he did the test
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Default 06-10-2012, 02:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Well, i have turned the wasgate rod 4+ full rotations and my log says it has helped....I am on target a lot more than I was.....I was 2-3 psi under before.
Doing the front WG will help. Did mine when I put on **'s. It's a lot of work for a little adjustment.
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Default 06-10-2012, 02:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Doing the front WG will help. Did mine when I put on **'s. It's a lot of work for a little adjustment.
I was thinking of doing the front, it is closed at 6"Hg but has slight play in it...I was thinking of doing 1 turn...but man is it a tight fit. What kind of wrenches did you use lol!! I was also thinking of cleaning up the slop in the Wastegate linkage.....how tight does the washer have to be on the shaft? I am assuming if it was a loose fit it would just rattle.


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Default 06-10-2012, 03:16 PM

For the Front the challenge is working between the turbo & block to remove the rod end. Once off I held the rod w/ needle nose vice grips & turned the rod end to take up the slack.
The whole idea behind a spring washer is to compress it (flatten it out). There will be no end play because the washer tries to go back to the original concave shape.
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Default 06-10-2012, 03:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
For the Front the challenge is working between the turbo & block to remove the rod end. Once off I held the rod w/ needle nose vice grips & turned the rod end to take up the slack.
The whole idea behind a spring washer is to compress it (flatten it out). There will be no end play because the washer tries to go back to the original concave shape.
So you take the C-clip off the front Wastegate and turned the end rod... I am guessing you had to loosen the adjusting nut also wich seems like more of a challenge lol!!

So basically the spring washer takes up all of the slop creating tension.....wouldn't this restrict movement in the linkage?


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Default 06-10-2012, 03:30 PM

Do you by chance know what size C-clip is used in the wastegates? Would suck to destroy a C-clip without a replcement.


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Last edited by robc1976; 06-10-2012 at 03:36 PM.. Reason: Spelling
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Default 06-10-2012, 06:10 PM

I noticed when I had the rear turbo rod adjusted in the reduce rattle manner (twist rod toward the fender) I would get a rush of boost mid pedal and nothing from 60% to wot. I adjusted it back but I get a vac measure of 8. Will JB4 and DME figure out the adjustment over time and smooth out the curve again or should I leave it adjusted where I have my best boost curve currently?

Also, Only getting 15 from the solenoids, Can that be tuned up or do I need new solenoids? (PID setting, lag fix, etc)? My WPM has been through the roof forever, now I think I know why.


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Default 06-10-2012, 07:14 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
So you take the C-clip off the front Wastegate and turned the end rod... I am guessing you had to loosen the adjusting nut also wich seems like more of a challenge lol!!

So basically the spring washer takes up all of the slop creating tension.....wouldn't this restrict movement in the linkage?
Break the nut loose before removing the clip. I cut a 10mm combo wrench in half, ground a slot in the box end to slip over the rod. The 12 points on the box is enough to swing the wrench in the tight spot. The silicone tube is held w/ your fingers to reach the box end in the space between turbo & engine to get it on the lock nut. It's hard to explain, but if don't cut the wrench in half you wouldn't be able to swing. The short wrench can be swung enough to do the deed.

Attachment 9940




The trick is to select a spring washer that takes up the play and doesn't bind up the linkage.
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Default 06-10-2012, 07:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Do you by chance know what size C-clip is used in the wastegates? Would suck to destroy a C-clip without a replcement.
The c-clip is for a 6mm shaft. Not sure of the groove size.
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Default 06-10-2012, 07:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilefitt
I noticed when I had the rear turbo rod adjusted in the reduce rattle manner (twist rod toward the fender) I would get a rush of boost mid pedal and nothing from 60% to wot. I adjusted it back but I get a vac measure of 8. Will JB4 and DME figure out the adjustment over time and smooth out the curve again or should I leave it adjusted where I have my best boost curve currently?

Also, Only getting 15 from the solenoids, Can that be tuned up or do I need new solenoids? (PID setting, lag fix, etc)? My WPM has been through the roof forever, now I think I know why.
Hey Chris! I am very interested in this! My PWM is high also.


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Default 06-10-2012, 07:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilefitt
I noticed when I had the rear turbo rod adjusted in the reduce rattle manner (twist rod toward the fender) I would get a rush of boost mid pedal and nothing from 60% to wot. I adjusted it back but I get a vac measure of 8. Will JB4 and DME figure out the adjustment over time and smooth out the curve again or should I leave it adjusted where I have my best boost curve currently?

Also, Only getting 15 from the solenoids, Can that be tuned up or do I need new solenoids? (PID setting, lag fix, etc)? My WPM has been through the roof forever, now I think I know why.
Don't know whats going on w/ the twisted rod.

JB4 controls the solenoids. What are you getting at the cannisters?
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