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Vroom Vroom is offline
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Default 08-25-2011, 05:44 AM

Not sure what was going on but unless there was a few quarts of oil in the FMIC, that's not what made the smoke...
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dreamk dreamk is offline
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Default 08-25-2011, 10:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Not sure what was going on but unless there was a few quarts of oil in the FMIC, that's not what made the smoke...
it was alot of smoke! after i did 2 pulls in the highway it went back to normal, i reved the car and it formed a huge cloud of smoke! it was a lil embarrassing driving like that...
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Default 08-25-2011, 02:13 PM

You just pushed oil into your head during pressurization. Mine did the same thing a few days ago. Did you find the leak? Where was it? Your waste gates are loud. Do you have Aftermarket *********?


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Default 08-25-2011, 07:10 PM

Spent some time thinking about why Nick0780 & dreamk are smoking and I wasn't. Are you running stock crankcase venting or an OCC that's routed back to the Air intake pipe that's up against the firewall? I'm betting that's the case. When pressurizing the intake track the pressure pushes any oil in the PCV line back into the head explaining the hissing at the oil fill cap. You will have to remove the hose to the intake pipe by the firewall and plug the pipe at the heater element for the test. I will add this note for cars that run the crankcase gases to the intake when I hear back from you guys.
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Default 08-25-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Spent some time thinking about why Nick0780 & dreamk are smoking and I wasn't. Are you running stock crankcase venting or an OCC that's routed back to the Air intake pipe that's up against the firewall? I'm betting that's the case. When pressurizing the intake track the pressure pushes any oil in the PCV line back into the head explaining the hissing at the oil fill cap. You will have to remove the hose to the intake pipe by the firewall and plug the pipe at the heater element for the test. I will add this note for cars that run the crankcase gases to the intake when I hear back from you guys.
Yup, thats it. Gotta disconnect this. I don't think it will hurt anything if you don't though but I will next time.


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Default 08-25-2011, 08:03 PM

Driving a mosquito killer could do some serious damage to your pride.
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jrsniper12453 jrsniper12453 is offline
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Default 05-05-2012, 06:37 PM

I was wondering; for a super quick and easy way to pressurize to check could one put bags of some sort around the intakes and then just use the meth injection nozzle to pressurize? I could be (and probably am) wrong but as I'm thinking about it the might tubing might even fit straight into a standard bicycle pump. I know it's not ideal but might it be feasible in a pinch?

Edit: Ok so the tubing doesn't fit directly.. but the concept is still the same

Last edited by jrsniper12453; 05-05-2012 at 07:18 PM..
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Default 05-05-2012, 08:23 PM

You could pressurize through the meth nozzle but the opening in the nozzle could be smaller than the leak you are looking for. If you can pressurize thru the nozzle just Bag the bag idea & just plug both intake tubes w/ PVC pipe caps.
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Tari Tari is offline
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Default 05-22-2012, 02:07 PM

I have loud waste gates and recently got the 30FF code. Anyone know where the boost leak might be from experience?
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Default 05-22-2012, 04:19 PM

waste gates are noisy when they are out of adjustment causing lazy spool up & 30FF. If logs show boost doesn't reach target till it's time to upshift, there's a good chance it's WG adjustment.
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Tari Tari is offline
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Default 05-22-2012, 04:24 PM

My waste gates only make noise on the start up a then after a few seconds it goes away. But my car is running like I have a boost leak I could barely pass an e46 m3 vert and I'm tuned and have dci
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Default 05-22-2012, 04:58 PM

You can start with Steps 2a, b. c if you suspect the trouble is WG related.
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Tari Tari is offline
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Default 05-30-2012, 04:51 AM

Did a smoke test and found that it is only coming through my front waste gate. The guy who tested it says I should replace both actuators with ecs actuators. He says he has to charge me for 7 hours of labor is that reasonable ?
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Default 05-30-2012, 06:13 AM

I've only seen 1 post somewhere about tests on aftermarket actuators (from a reputable source) and the take away was to stay w/ OEM's.
BTW you CAN adjust the Front actuator w/o removing turbos. IT's not easy at all, but I have done it & it fixes turbo lag.
7 hrs. seems reasonable to me, but stick w/ OEM actuators.
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Tari Tari is offline
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Default 05-30-2012, 08:18 AM

He said ECS makes good stuff. And how long will that adjusted waste gate last if it came loose at only 60k. Since the smoke test I have no boost at all also :/
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Default 05-30-2012, 01:09 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tari
He said ECS makes good stuff. And how long will that adjusted waste gate last if it came loose at only 60k. Since the smoke test I have no boost at all also :/
1. No boost after the test should tell you something about the guy who did the test.
2. WG's wear & need adjusting (via the actuator rod) over time. If only at 60K, I'd be happy.
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Tari Tari is offline
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Default 05-30-2012, 04:05 PM

True you have a point I also found someone who works on turbo cars more freguently and is only charging 450 to do the adjustment thanks to a good friend. I really appreciate the help you really know your stuff! You know what my problem was with out even seeing the car.
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Default 05-30-2012, 05:31 PM

Good luck. Post the results.
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Tari Tari is offline
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Default 06-02-2012, 09:33 PM

Got it fixed and it's running 100%
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Default 06-03-2012, 05:52 AM

Nice!

Was it just WG adjustment?
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Default 06-04-2012, 02:49 PM

I believe my wastegates are rattling at 2500-3000 RPMS or it is a heat shield. I am only getting 20" HG at idle on the Wastegate selonoids with a mighty vac vac pump connected to it...but the mightyvac only goes to 25". I have replaced all vacuum lines from canisters top & bottom and all the way behind oil-filter and replaced 1 vacuum canister due to a broken nipple. Is 20" HG acceptable or do I have a leak? I thought our cars only pulled 22" HG at idle so how do we obtain the 26" HG?s


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Default 06-04-2012, 05:39 PM

First, Do you only have a rattle or boost leak, lazy spool to go with the rattle? Do a log if you're not sure.

There's a dedicated vac pump on our cars that good for 26" Hg. The cannisters act like reservoirs, the solenoids open & close when the ECU/Tune tells them to move the actuators to open & close the WG's to control boost to what ever Terry wants.
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Default 06-04-2012, 06:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
First, Do you only have a rattle or boost leak, lazy spool to go with the rattle? Do a log if you're not sure.

There's a dedicated vac pump on our cars that good for 26" Hg. The cannisters act like reservoirs, the solenoids open & close when the ECU/Tune tells them to move the actuators to open & close the WG's to control boost to what ever Terry wants.
I have a rattle at 2,500 rpm but only on acceleration....I have logged and I am under target by 1-2 psi.....it basically hits 17 and tapers off target....fuel and timing are good. I am only getting 20.5" Hg at idle from each vacuum canister. Have checked all lines. My rear waste gate was way out of adjustment...it wasn't closed until 8+"Hg so I adjusted it so it is closed at around 6"Hg. Both wastegates actuators hold pressure.

Your tutorial was just awesome man!


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Default 06-04-2012, 07:35 PM

Not sure how you adjusted the WG's, but here's how it should be done. Put hi vacuum directly to the actuator till it's moved the full travel. The WG must be fully closed at this point. Adjust linkage as needed.
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Default 06-04-2012, 07:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vroom
Not sure how you adjusted the WG's, but here's how it should be done. Put hi vacuum directly to the actuator till it's moved the full travel. The WG must be fully closed at this point. Adjust linkage as needed.
I did it a bit different....I did it like the link below in post #17...what your thoughts? I have turned the rod 3 full rotations....I am a bit nervous to do more but will if needed. With your way how do you know how much linkage or adjustment to do...Do you put vacuum to it so it is fully closed, removed the c clip and adjud the linkage?

Link:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...7#post10240767


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